2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[AS240]

Originally Posted by kalel540

775cc inj clinic, 400lph walbro and BW S360.

Is that on 93 octane fuel?

[AS240]

Originally Posted by Silviacraze05jr

Anyone using q45 throttle body? Can I delete the coolant lines on both sides. My modified upper 2j manifold with full function engineering top feed fuel rail hitting the q45 tb. If I eliminate the vac/coolant lines it will clear the fuel rail.

Yes you can use channel locks or put those coolant ends in a vise and pull/twist them out. Be sure you remove the cold idle function from the throttle body or else you will most likely have a high idle.

[kalel540]

1

Originally Posted by AS240

Is that on 93 octane fuel?

91 Octane. Its almost impossible to find 93 in New Mexico.

[Cronus577]

Originally Posted by kalel540

1

91 Octane. Its almost impossible to find 93 in New Mexico.

Ugh, I know your pain. So is E85 out east...

[Bushido]

[bmaddock]

Of course I post some long tutorial then I go post something dumb like this but does anyone have a good, clean pinout for a 1JZ VVTI? Specifically for the soarer but i believe the chaser is identical..

My wiring guy is backed up like crazy so I want to do it myself but just can't find good, reputable information on the wiring schematics. I'm really not afraid of wiring, just was trying to save some time and the headache.



I found this great source but still am a bit skeptical of it..
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...arness-diagram

[alwyzDTF]

Just got my 2jzge settled in my S14 and I dont have many ideas as to what to do about my master cylinder having no room to fit. I know Chasebays makes a BB delete kit that would give me plenty of room but I plan on tracking the car and I read its not recommended ditching the booster if you plan on drifting.



One of many fitment issues im trying to work out...I already had to dent the booster a bit to even be able to mount the manifold.

[kalel540]

oooOOooo. I see you also have BW. sweet.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by alwyzDTF

Just got my 2jzge settled in my S14 and I dont have many ideas as to what to do about my master cylinder having no room to fit. I know Chasebays makes a BB delete kit that would give me plenty of room but I plan on tracking the car and I read its not recommended ditching the booster if you plan on drifting.

The Borg looks good man!

[AS240]

alwyzDTF, keep an eye on your coilover lock collar if you're going to run them on the bottom like that. No matter how tight I got mine, they would always vibrate themselves loose and work their way down until they eventually fell off.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

The Borg looks good man!

Thanks man, I really appreciate your help!

Originally Posted by AS240

alwyzDTF, keep an eye on your coilover lock collar if you're going to run them on the bottom like that. No matter how tight I got mine, they would always vibrate themselves loose and work their way down until they eventually fell off.

Thanks for the heads up!
maybe try some loctite just on the bottom collar?

[Reddrum13]

Originally Posted by alwyzDTF

Just got my 2jzge settled in my S14 and I dont have many ideas as to what to do about my master cylinder having no room to fit. I know Chasebays makes a BB delete kit that would give me plenty of room but I plan on tracking the car and I read its not recommended ditching the booster if you plan on drifting.



One of many fitment issues im trying to work out...I already had to dent the booster a bit to even be able to mount the manifold.

What mounts do you have? I'm GE also and my clearance is spot on. Freed Engineering.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by Reddrum13

What mounts do you have? I'm GE also and my clearance is spot on. Freed Engineering.

Im rocking the Zerolift Autolab mounts because I got them with my swap and ive got those sitting on Drift Freaqs motor mounts. I do notice the huge difference between us is the FFIM though.

Im either going to delete the brake booster and buy a nice tilton pedal setup with the cylinders in the cabin or im going to have someone shorten the lower runners enough to clear the booster and master cylinder.

I really want to run the chasebays brake booster delete kit but...its chasebays and Im not all that willing to take chances on a company with a reputation of selling defective products.

Anybody else got any other suggestions?

[RickS14]

Originally Posted by alwyzDTF

Im rocking the Zerolift Autolab mounts because I got them with my swap and ive got those sitting on Drift Freaqs motor mounts. I do notice the huge difference between us is the FFIM though.

Im either going to delete the brake booster and buy a nice tilton pedal setup with the cylinders in the cabin or im going to have someone shorten the lower runners enough to clear the booster and master cylinder.

I really want to run the chasebays brake booster delete kit but...its chasebays and Im not all that willing to take chances on a company with a reputation of selling defective products.

Anybody else got any other suggestions?

How hard was it to fit with the zerolift brackets. I'm having a not so good experience nothing lines up for me.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by RickS14

How hard was it to fit with the zerolift brackets. I'm having a not so good experience nothing lines up for me.

It was a complete pain in the ass, I pretty much gave up at one point but it'll get in there after a good struggle. I eventually had to take off my intake manifold and turbo manifold to get it in because they were hitting the strut tower and my master cylinder/brakebooster.

Because im using a W58 trans (the mounts are for a R154 apparently) I just had to drill 4 new holes and when I got the trans all bolted up its way too short for an s14 chassis. I need to get it extended half a foot or so, I haven't taken any measurements yet.

Then when its all said and done...the motor looks straight but the trans is a little bit crooked sitting closer towards the drivers side of the chassis. not too bad but it is by no means perfectly straight.

[ThanatosG]

I really want to run the chasebays brake booster delete kit but...its chasebays and Im not all that willing to take chances on a company with a reputation of selling defective products.

I think their delete kit is a wilwood master cylinder. i don't think you can make that part defective. I've never heard of them selling defective products. Can you give an example? I was considering picking up their interior brake line relocation kit/ BB delete kit as well.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by ThanatosG

I think their delete kit is a wilwood master cylinder. i don't think you can make that part defective. I've never heard of them selling defective products. Can you give an example? I was considering picking up their interior brake line relocation kit/ BB delete kit as well.

I actually just read a review and someone was having issues with the wilwood master cylinder. It leaked so bad he had to return it and went back to the booster/MC setup. (huge waste of time and money)

I'm not saying all their stuff is problematic and almost all of the reviews I've read they seem to have great customer service but they are definitely one of those hit or miss companies and when it comes to my brakes I don't care how good your customer service is, I need a 100% guarantee the product is perfect and going to work. Especially considering I'm only tracking the car.

I hope you don't take this wrong but if you've never read of Chasebays selling a defective product then you need to do a lot more research. I could find a ton of examples but i'm not about to search the web for you.

[ThanatosG]

Got a link to that review? I'm definitely still researching this setup.

I've read a few forum posts bashing them, but I've not come across a review that I would say convinced me it was a bad company. Also in this business there's a lot of layer 8 problems. (I'm a network engineer) comparing ppl to the 7 layer osi model haha. Human error/install issues.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by ThanatosG

Got a link to that review? I'm definitely still researching this setup.

I've read a few forum posts bashing them, but I've not come across a review that I would say convinced me it was a bad company. Also in this business there's a lot of layer 8 problems. (I'm a network engineer) comparing ppl to the 7 layer osi model haha. Human error/install issues.

I agree with you 100% about layer 8 problems and can guarantee that when a person comes back and says its a defective product over half the time its because they don't even know what they're doing which creates a ton of mis information so take everything with a grain of salt.

and I am by no means bashing Chasebays or saying don't buy from them, i'm just saying it's very hit or miss and your brakes are not something to take those chances on.

I dont really save information like that. there are tons of review threads about the product, not just on zilvia but tons of different forums so just keep re searching buddy.

[RickS14]

Originally Posted by alwyzDTF

It was a complete pain in the ass, I pretty much gave up at one point but it'll get in there after a good struggle. I eventually had to take off my intake manifold and turbo manifold to get it in because they were hitting the strut tower and my master cylinder/brakebooster.

Because im using a W58 trans (the mounts are for a R154 apparently) I just had to drill 4 new holes and when I got the trans all bolted up its way too short for an s14 chassis. I need to get it extended half a foot or so, I haven't taken any measurements yet.

Then when its all said and done...the motor looks straight but the trans is a little bit crooked sitting closer towards the drivers side of the chassis. not too bad but it is by no means perfectly straight.

Yea that's were I stand now.can not get shit to line up very frustrating.they claim drop in or needs some adjustment Im on second set of engine mounts and still not good.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by RickS14

Yea that's were I stand now.can not get shit to line up very frustrating.they claim drop in or needs some adjustment Im on second set of engine mounts and still not good.

If you need help thats what were here for.
post you setup and pictures of your problem areas.
I literally just did this a few weeks ago.

[RickS14]

Originally Posted by alwyzDTF

If you need help thats what were here for.
post you setup and pictures of your problem areas.
I literally just did this a few weeks ago.

Really appreciate that.I will try to post some.lap top is down at the moment.

[TrustS13]

I'm about 90% done.

Just to add to things already known:

1. You can re-use your stock fuel lines and simply rebend them slightly. Use adel clamps and run them up the driver side fuel rail. Then, all you need to do is run new 5/16th fuel hose from the tank to the line in the rear, and the hard line to the engine.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by kalel540

oooOOooo. I see you also have BW. sweet.

Why not just ditch that IM?

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by Black R

Why not just ditch that IM?

I've already put money into it and would rather work around it I guess im not too sure yet. Kind of put my build on hold until I decide which money pit road to go down.

This is what my bitch ass gets for being cheap lol

[BigPawr]

The comparison of the two bays I don't think is apples to apples. Both have similar aftermarket intake manifolds, but I think the one with the Brake booster clearance issues clearly has longer runners than the one using the SRT intake.

[alwyzDTF]

Originally Posted by BigPawr

The comparison of the two bays I don't think is apples to apples. Both have similar aftermarket intake manifolds, but I think the one with the Brake booster clearance issues clearly has longer runners than the one using the SRT intake.

I know, I either shorten the lower runners or I ditch the booster and get the tilton pedals with the MC sitting ontop of them inside the cabin. I'd be happy with either or. I dont fabricate so ive got to waste money no matter what I choose.

You know the SRT manifold kit is like $1700...I dont ball like that lol

[OkiDori17]

I've read nearly this entire thread.
I'm planning 2 2J swaps in the upcoming month.
Both are stock JDM non vvti with the stock twins going in s13s.
I have most things worked out. The only thing I can't find a definite answer on is a vaccum diagram for all the stuff to run sequential. Frankly, I could care less if I run sequential or ttc, I just need it plumbed up.
Is anyone here running stock twins and can snap a few pics of the vaccum plumbing or be awesome and write out a diagram?
Any help is appreciated.

[ATLspeed]

Does anyone have a problem with their starter not engaging randomly after driving? The subject was touched here but don't think we came to a solution.

Key note:
* Its not my ignition switch (pulled my 2j out of coupe to swap stock KA from my vert. The starting problem still followed the 2j. The KA never had a problem with starting when put in the coupe)
* Starter has been replaced with reman'd starter
* Existed with modified stock harness and chasebays harness
* Power wire is ran from Batt>Alt>Starter....going to redo my charging system with 2 or 4 gauge wire and route it Batt>Starter>Alt. (I'm using an oem e36 battery cable that I had laying around)

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

Does anyone have a problem with their starter not engaging randomly after driving? The subject was touched here but don't think we came to a solution.

Key note:
* Its not my ignition switch (pulled my 2j out of coupe to swap stock KA from my vert. The starting problem still followed the 2j. The KA never had a problem with starting when put in the coupe)
* Starter has been replaced with reman'd starter
* Existed with modified stock harness and chasebays harness
* Power wire is ran from Batt>Alt>Starter....going to redo my charging system with 2 or 4 gauge wire and route it Batt>Starter>Alt. (I'm using an oem e36 battery cable that I had laying around)

Yes I had these same problems, and yes I believe we touched on it previously. I have it batt > to a junction that then goes to >starter and other end goes to alternator. I am running 0 gauge the whole way. Also running a reman starter (started with OEM and now I am on my second reman starter)....

I also went from stock KA to 2jz in a car that drove perfectly fine no starting issues. S14

There is a huge long thread on supra forums about this same thing. I ended up doing the "relay trick" with the trigger wire like many had done on there but my problem still persisted.

I notice it seems to be worse on warmer days. But is totally random, sometimes it's awesome for like 2 weeks and then in one day it will happen three times.

The only thing I haven't tried is swapping the ECU, soon will be going standalone so hoping maybe that is it? Are you on stock ECU?