Lets See Some Light: The Definitive Lighting Thread

[silviaks2nr]

Just get the h4/9003 harness TRS sells and it will do exactly that, and completely plug and play. Even has 9006 inputs for the mini bixenon solenoids.

[mad-ass]

So far..I have this.

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

Just get the h4/9003 harness TRS sells and it will do exactly that, and completely plug and play. Even has 9006 inputs for the mini bixenon solenoids.

Well, I seem to do this all the time, post up a question with 1/3 of it answered on my own, read and research again and kind of find my own answers...So from what I've been reading so far I've gotten these two items just now.


Capacitor for the [Low to High] or [High to Low] transitions so the HID doesn't loose power, and Diode to keep the HID on.

now I just gotta figure out where exactly they would need to get soldered onto.


oh, and I am broke ATM and I always enjoy figuring stuff out and doing it on my own(If I can do it, I might as well do it kind of thing, the nerdy stuff), so I didn't want to buy the TRS harness. I've called them twice just today asking the same questions to them and I didn't get a clear answer on what exactly I needed to order from them, and twice in same day is enough for me.


edit: after some thinking and what not...i think this will work.

My HID system already has relays in it, so I'll leave that alone.(1 relay powering both ballasts. don't want to change it because it's been working perfectly fine for last 5 years)

So instead, I'll change things around the stock low-beam harness.

I'll tap into the high-beam wire and solder in the bi-xenon solenoid wire than the diode to the low-beam wire. On the low-beam wire after the diode, i'll solder in the capacitor than finally into the H4 socket.

I'll try to draw this out, but hopefully that makes sense and will work with what I'm trying to do here.

edit #2: Here's my super fine Power Point drawing! lol


This is all before it gets hook up to the bulb or the ballast.

[shephurd]

just got hella h4 conversion for s13, will update with pictures

[zerodameaon]

Are you just doing Halogen bulbs or are you just going to toss H4 HIDs in there without doing the proper retrofit of the housings?

[silviaks2nr]

you shouldn't need the capacitor actually then. But what you have there will work. Put a 15a fuse inline in the power wire to each ballast

[mad-ass]

^there is a 25A fuse for the main power relay(again, been fine for 5 years now, i think it's a good system) already that feeds power to the ballasts. I know the capacitor is completely optional, but I put that there so there is no brake period on the ballast for the power transition from low-to-high.

unless you are saying i really don't need it for what I want it to do.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Why dont you just run 2 relays? Thats what I'm doing to keep my lows on, when I flip the highs.

[coreyh]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Why dont you just run 2 relays? Thats what I'm doing to keep my lows on, when I flip the highs.

why run ground between 85 and 86? why no just keep the wiring parallel?

[FaLKoN240]

My retrofit is done with Audi TT headlights and they're aimed WAY too low.

Does anyone know what I can do to correct this?

[silviaks2nr]

when the retrofit was performed were the audi projectors mounted so that the hid low beam lined up with the original kouki halogen low beam? If you didn't do the retrofit yourself you might not be able to answer this I guess... First make sure the bulb connector isn't interfering with the back housing and then just turn either the top or bottom 8mm hex adjuster which is located between the low and high beam until the aim is more suitable.

[FaLKoN240]

I've turned the adjuster, but it only adjusts the high beams.

I didn't do the retrofit. I just bought them. They're aimed pretty low. It really sucks.

[silviaks2nr]

do you have jdm lights? the adjusters are in a different location if so

[FaLKoN240]

They're USDM housings. I'm sorry I didn't include that info -__-

[silviaks2nr]

hrmm something really odd must be going on then. The projector is mounted to the same metal bracket inside the headlight as the high beam reflector in USDM lights. My guess is the bulb connector is hitting the housing causing the projector to get stuck or one of the threaded clips inside the headlight, on the mounting bracket, is stripped.


This is for aiming either for future reference though

[silviaks2nr]

Do you have a picture of the output? I wonder if the projectors were not mounted to the bracket properly and are pointed down instead of mounted so the low beam corresponds with the high beam. Is your projector beam pattern way lower than the high beam "hot spot"?

[mad-ass]

Originally Posted by coreyh

why run ground between 85 and 86? why no just keep the wiring parallel?

well, 85 and 86 can be swapped if there are no diodes are involved, and either one of those two posts need to be grounded to activate the relay, I'll assume it was purely for ease of drawing purposes.

fliprayzin240sx, I hope you are doing well with your deployment, come back home safe.

I don't see the need to run extra relays because my ballasts gets power straight from the battery through it's own relay harness and I only need to mess around with the input signal to the ballasts so it doesn't turn off during the High-Low transitions(i'll be using the capacitor for this reason).

And plus, relays add extra bulk and wiring that I really don't need.

I am probably going to be doing this on the HID harness and not on the OEM harness to keep it simple as possible, and I also always wanted to redo the store bought relay harness since I started reading upon projectors(it was bit much to take in at the time, but I realized how simple things were after I knew what I was doing. haha)

[fliprayzin240sx]

I ran dual relays just to be safe. I never found a definitive answer on how much amp HID ballasts pulls on the initial ignition of the bulbs.

Yah, the drawing is just a reference. I used it on my Zenki in Japan when I did my retrofit and used it on my current car when I converted to Kouki. I just think its alot simplier to do with 2 relays and using the original low beam power wire as the switch reference.

[shephurd]

Cant remove my current headlights to install my hella h4's because the screws are rusted and striped. Does anyone know where i can get new screws?

[FaLKoN240]

Def have USDM lights.



The projector unit(?) from the Audi TT seems to be entirely in the housing. They may have cut out the adjustment plate for the low beam to house the projector unit. I'll bake it and open it up and report back with what I find.

[fliprayzin240sx]

You'll probably have to shim it inside to push it up higher when you open it.

[FaLKoN240]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

You'll probably have to shim it inside to push it up higher when you open it.

What that mean? Like put something under it or something? I am gonna open them this week if that's all I have to do. Tired of this shit. LOL

[Matej]

Originally Posted by jamg

what's the best h4 halogen money can buy?

If only looking at OEM-wattage 60/55W bulbs, these currently seem to be the best, if the advertised '+percentage over standard' ratings may be trusted:
1. Narva Plus 120 (+120%)
2. Osram Night Breaker Unlimited (+110%, 'white' tint)
3. Philips X-treme Vision (+100%)
3. Narva 48342BL2 (+100%)
4. Osram Night Breaker Plus (+90%, 'white' tint)
4. Narva 48532BL2 (+90%, 'white' tint)

I am considering going back to regular bulbs, since I dislike all the extra junk that comes with HID's.


Though I am not a fan of LED's on old cars, these LED sealed beams do not look as offensive as the other offerings. Too bad about the black bits. I wonder how they would look and perform with some non-clear Sylvania or Hella lenses transplanted onto them.

[yt]JelMzHG

[hybrid_eg]

Silvia dual projectors, retrofitted with RX projectors, color modded, TRS clear lens, black headlight bowls painted black, clear circuit sport housings, note -do not attempt using OEM glass ones, their output is terrible!

I will follow up with new pics, day/night once installed on the car.. they have been sitting around for about a year now but hopefully the old lady will run next month.

Tests were performed with 85122CM bulbs and 35W ballasts, I will be running 55W so expect more output than pictured.

I love my bricks but the output simply blows at night so I thought Id give this a shot.. Enjoy!!!!

[mad-ass]

dat shroud...what is it?

[hybrid_eg]

It's not a shroud, the ring around projector is just what came with RX, the black housing around the projector is oem Nissan headlight backing which is originally metallic grey color when you take glass lens off, in my case I painted it black as I wanted it less flashy..

[soryu]

Originally Posted by advanEST

Hi!

well, i did mine with HELLA FF75 lights!

Output pics? What kind of bulb?
Relay?

[kouki-gymkhana]

What are you guys using the trigger the HID harness? The original headlight stalk or a separate button? I really couldn't figure out the complicated FSM diagram for the headlight switch. Right now I have it set up completely separate from the headlight stalk but I want to have OEM functionality. Any tips or links?

[silviaks2nr]

use the +12v low or low/high from the factory body harness.

[mad-ass]

Originally Posted by kouki-gymkhana

What are you guys using the trigger the HID harness? The original headlight stalk or a separate button? I really couldn't figure out the complicated FSM diagram for the headlight switch. Right now I have it set up completely separate from the headlight stalk but I want to have OEM functionality. Any tips or links?

Check your FSM...should come across something like this.


and this is pretty much what I'll be doing integrated with my previous drawing.

[Gordo714]

Had these projectors laying around for the longest time
still need to adjust them but they are good for now