The fabrication thread.

[blu808]

Badass as always Bill.

[Xracer]

How come when i weld stainless it turns a dark grey color where the weld pool was? All of your guys's stuff is shiny or multi colored. I just did another 304 stainless exhaust and it is grey in at the weld line and the color change out from there.

[driftstyre]

Originally Posted by Xracer

How come when i weld stainless it turns a dark grey color where the weld pool was? All of your guys's stuff is shiny or multi colored. I just did another 304 stainless exhaust and it is grey in at the weld line and the color change out from there.

Sounds like too much heat. I try and get the most penetration with the absolute least heat. Depending on the piece, strength might not be paramount, so you don't need full penetration.

What pressure are you running on the gas? If you use a gas diffuser nozzle, it slows down the gas and creates less turbulence (made for aluminum, hence the "Alumina" name they have, but they work well for steel) I rarely have welded without them in the last 3 years except for very tight spots. You can use less gas pressure then, saving $ too. Also, post flow on stainless for 3-5 seconds so the end of your bead doesn't get contaminated.

[blu808]

Well said.

Also alot of people make the mistake of using rod or electrode that is too thick. That is what ends up making everything too hot. I use the smallest diameter rod and electrode.

[Xracer]

The actual bead width is about 2mm how could it be too much heat? It was 18 gauge 304 stainless. I swear my welds look different than everybody else. What amperage range would you guys use for that? i was running about 55-60amps tops for that. The welds look very similar to the mild steel exhaust i posted on page 2 or 3.

[projekt_s13]

Originally Posted by driftstyre

Those rims remind me of FN's

Love your work guys, wish i could weld. Im gonna take some welding classes next semester.

[blu808]

Originally Posted by Xracer

The actual bead width is about 2mm how could it be too much heat? It was 18 gauge 304 stainless. I swear my welds look different than everybody else. What amperage range would you guys use for that? i was running about 55-60amps tops for that. The welds look very similar to the mild steel exhaust i posted on page 2 or 3.

What filler rod are you using?

[Xracer]

I don't use filler rod for the tube sections. But for the flanges and hangers i used a 308 filler rod.

[sillyvia13]

I used a bit of filler on this piece...
you like it...


and my new turbo...to my specs... looking to make a engine blow up! I mean make 7,000hp. my skillz are getting better...I may start a business!

[projekt_s13]

hahah nice

I bet my welds are gonna look worse.

[Xracer]

Wow Got Gas?

[sillyvia13]

Originally Posted by Xracer

Wow Got Gas?

cause thats hits on FIRE!

I was roaming around and found a WROST FAB THREAD , and seen these/...had TO!

lol...looks like bird shit from above fell into place.

[luisgonz]

Originally Posted by sillyvia13

cause thats hits on FIRE!

I was roaming around and found a WROST FAB THREAD , and seen these/...had TO!

lol...looks like bird shit from above fell into place.

I think that piece of metal has some kind of metal rash problem.

[steve_o1989]

Hahaha I love it. I think that the extra 1000hp those turbo fins add will balance out the fact that well..that the balance is now non existent.

[Chrischeezer]

if that turbo spools... i think the world will explode

[fakts13]

Originally Posted by Xracer

The actual bead width is about 2mm how could it be too much heat? It was 18 gauge 304 stainless. I swear my welds look different than everybody else. What amperage range would you guys use for that? i was running about 55-60amps tops for that. The welds look very similar to the mild steel exhaust i posted on page 2 or 3.

are you back purging? if you are getting 100% penetration and not back purging, you might be getting contamination from the back of the weld. usually for fusion welding 18 gauge, i use about 45 amps and move quick to keep from getting 100% penetration (mostly on stuff after the turbo or headers where strength is not too important).

[IIIXziuR]

Hey Welding Masters & Experts:

What would a good beginner MIG welder be? (112v)

Basically, I am just looking for something to get some practice with and build up decent skill/understanding. Eventually, I would like to do light rust repair work on body panels and possibly do some stitch welding on the chassis (if possible).

Any recommendations are helpful and your help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks

[GSXRJJordan]

<=== Not an expert, by any means, but I've watched a lot of them work over the years. I just started actually practicing with a little Lincoln 120V that I rented from Home Depot - in my area, it was $40 (+ about $9 for a spool of wire) for a 24hr rental... that was plenty of time for me to play around with laying some beads on 1/8" bar stock, and seam weld my S14 chassis.

About seam welding, I got some great advice from this thread... I used a 'fine' wire wheel and some 100grit sandpaper (for corners) and took everything down to bare metal, then hit it with acetone, then used very low voltage to build up a small (probably 1/8") bead, and placed them every 2" or so along every seam I could get to. Biggest ones are the two tranny humps and the strut towers, but also did other places around the car. Then I cleaned it all, and sealed it up with some automotive primer. Thanks for all the inspiration/examples guys! I'll post pics within the next couple days for the Zilvia critique

[blu808]

Sorry ive been lagging on the updates guys.

Here an m3 exhaust I welded today.

Came out great.





O yea I finished the fc. Early numbers are .

470 ft lbs of tq, to the wheels at only 5 psi.
380 hp.

STOCK engine. + turbo. With more tuning should hit 550 whp, 600 wht.











Viper brembos.



Cold air.



Money shot.



And back to more fab. If you didn't see the other thread.

Here is a camaro I made some parts for.

[ayuaddict]

HOE LEE SHEET.

i believe that caps were quite appropriate in this situation.

[driftstyre]

damn, that camaro is so badass. Nice M3 exhaust too!

[Ghostdrifter]

Hey what size of mild steel tubing to you guys thinks I should use to make a fender brace. Also if i make intercooler pipeing out of aluminum how thick should it be?

[GSXRJJordan]

Most of the fender braces I see made are 1" square tubing with 1/8" brackets welded on. They're pretty simple to fab, only a couple angles.

As far as intercooler piping, I've never done aluminum because it's so much harder to find someone to weld aluminum for free I'd imagine it's not an exact science, just find a good deal on some piping that's the correct diameter (either 2", 2.5" or 3", depending on your setup).

[melna8]

Hey what's up guys, new here to the forum and im not sure if this i the right spot to post this, so before I get some search response remember im new to this forum and have done some searching.

well anyways I've been thinking of making a custom hood to release some heat and losing some pounds,im planning on swapping in a SR hopefully in 5-6months but wanted to get this idea rolling and started, below is something i ran into that was as close to "custom" I've seen It's not exactly the set up I had in mind seen how I am going to be running a s13 front end, where would be the best place to make the cut? Does it matter that I do this cut now before i install the SR(positioning reasons)?

and as far as weight, what do you guys think about cutting the reinforced framing to lose some pounds? I know the easy way would be to just buy a carbon fiber or fiber glass hood but, I was just thinking of this first, seen how i already have my s13 hood in my garage waiting for some attention:hammer: good idea? bad idea? any helpful information or links/examples would be great. Also just want to give some major props on a lot of custom work people have done on here,GOOD JOB! keep it up.

[GSXRJJordan]

Lots of guys 'gut' their stock metal hoods. You just should use hood pins when you do, to help keep the hood off your windshield.

As far as cutting in to "help airflow", think on this: most companies that make hoods don't even know exactly where to put vents for proper airflow. There are just too many variables. You can try to vent the stock hood, but you should really have some ducting to help the air flow into (or out of) the vent from the engine bay. Most of the time, you're better off just making sure you're using a good fan with a shroud on a good radiator that's been properly bled for the best cooling.

[blu808]

I would just leave it and get the new engine running strong. The area that you have selected is still in the positive pressure zone on the frontal area of a 180sx. Unless you have some serious ducting with a nice schroud, then it would help with cooling.

[melna8]

Great thanks for the info guys, I was only thinking of taking off the framing from underneath the hood because some parts are broken off so instead of just welding them back on i was just going to cut them off and save some weight(5lbs?) and get some hood pins,as far as the ducts i might not do them,and go with a good radiator and some nice fans, what would you guys suggest? affordable yet great? I know you get what you pay for so nothings wrong with throwing some expensive names out, I know some people have gone with Altima fans and a koyo radiator but what would be some other options? sorry don't mean to throw this thread off topic

[drftwerks]

luke, someone said they saw a fc that color, in your old neighborhood, is some one driving it around?

[blu808]

I was driving it around.

Prob hanging out at my friend erics house.

Why? what they say?

[sillyvia13]

Originally Posted by blu808

I was driving it around.

Prob hanging out at my friend erics house.

Why? what they say?

said someone saw a fc that color driving around I bet!
its posted right above you post! lol..