Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Schassis707

Ok i have another question, I just got some rucas from a friend but they dont have the little cone type spacer that connects to the pillowball mount/ heim joint. Where would i be able to find them?

I'd ask your friend for them...they may interchange, but for the most part they are specific to the RUCA and the bearing used....and are not off the shelf items.

Originally Posted by jeffary

Going to do timing chain guide.
Old valve cover gasket is leaking = need new gasket.
EBAY $15.
KRAGEN 23$ but with 1 year warranty.
Heard that you should always get new gasket when you remove/put back valve cover.

SHOULD I BUY EBAY, OR KRAGEN AND GET NEW GASKET WITH WARRANTY EVERYTIME I OPEN VALVE COVER?

I've never EVER heard of a warranty on a gasket like that, but think of it this way

Ebay 15 bucks...gotta wait a week...and gotta pay for shipping (which will put it near 23 dollars anyway)

Kragan 23 dollars...have it today, isntalled today, and done.

Originally Posted by slow_sr20

Who makes the lowest seat rails? Bride, Nagisa, Buddy Club? If the answer is Bride, wich type do i want? Seat will be side mount. Thanks!

At 28 years old, I'm sure you know better than asking this. SEARCH!

[axiomatik]

Originally Posted by .emerson.

Anybody used these? If so please enlighten me! If not tell me your opinion based on what you know!

S14, Daily driving, commuting to school and back, frequent stop and go.

Tokico Performance Shocks - Aftermarket and OEM Shock Absorbers, Struts and Suspension


^the D spec coil-overs

fyi - Doesn't look like they are height-adjustable, in case you are looking for that feature.

[niteridaz503]

Originally Posted by niteridaz503

Just picked up a 1.5 way, besides taking it in for it to be checked. Any way i can see if its worn out or needs a rebuild?

If im switching it from an s14 to s13 casing should i still take it in for pre load & back lash adjustment?

anyone????

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by daftphunk

Sup guys.

I got an S14 and my rear driver side corner light is out.

Here's the story. Both lights were working. I noticed today that the passenger side was out, so I replaced the bulb. Worked perfectly fine. Decided to replace the drivers side one too, just to be consistent and have new bulbs in both sides. Took out the old one, put in the new one; simple stuff. However, my driver side one stopped working after that.

Any ideas as to what may have happened and what I can do? It really bugs me that it's out

you may have used a 1 prong bulb rather than a 2 prong bulb so only brakes work now or something - or a blown fuse

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by slow_sr20

Who makes the lowest seat rails? Bride, Nagisa, Buddy Club? If the answer is Bride, wich type do i want? Seat will be side mount. Thanks!

Nagisa is pretty much the same height as bride, but bride has a backwards tilt steeper than that of nagisa (positions the seat a bit better)

Nagisa sells dual lock, and single lock styles - so make sure you get the one you want

Bride FG rails are the ones you would be looking for, remember though - passenger bride rail is US driver side

Bride N045FG Type FG Seat Rails for Bucket Seats Nissan 240SX

[unlegendary]

hey i have louder than normal brake squeal during light braking, but if i press harder it'll disappear. It will not squeal before warm up. Panic stops will stop squeal. The squeal only happens on the driver side.
- new duralast z32 brake pads on r33 calipers
- new q45 rotors
- lubed up the pads and shims
- shims are pretty old and cut up
- i've been looking at my brake fluid level and have not noticed it draining yet
- automatic bmc (bigger)

Any advice?

[Schassis707]

Originally Posted by unlegendary

hey i have louder than normal brake squeal during light braking, but if i press harder it'll disappear. It will not squeal before warm up. Panic stops will stop squeal. The squeal only happens on the driver side.
- new duralast z32 brake pads on r33 calipers
- new q45 rotors
- lubed up the pads and shims
- shims are pretty old and cut up
- i've been looking at my brake fluid level and have not noticed it draining yet
- automatic bmc (bigger)

Any advice?

I know the bmc is bigger for the auto but dont you still need to swap to a z32 and upgrade the lines

[hunterw]

ive got a few small questions....first one being....are all 240sx steering racks power steering? and does anyone know how long they are with the inner tie rods? and will a ka p.s. pump work with a s14 blacktop? thx

[boosted KA24DE]

Originally Posted by unlegendary

hey i have louder than normal brake squeal during light braking, but if i press harder it'll disappear. It will not squeal before warm up. Panic stops will stop squeal. The squeal only happens on the driver side.
- new duralast z32 brake pads on r33 calipers
- new q45 rotors
- lubed up the pads and shims
- shims are pretty old and cut up
- i've been looking at my brake fluid level and have not noticed it draining yet
- automatic bmc (bigger)

Any advice?

Get better pads. those are garbage!!! I am about to swap the new ones on my Honda Pilot cuz they are loud like you mention and mine are rear. One thing to note is you may need to rebuild the calipers if they are aged. pistons locking up and not retracting will cause this type of noise also. DOES your car pull to any side when you brake?

[unlegendary]

Originally Posted by boosted KA24DE

Get better pads. those are garbage!!! I am about to swap the new ones on my Honda Pilot cuz they are loud like you mention and mine are rear. One thing to note is you may need to rebuild the calipers if they are aged. pistons locking up and not retracting will cause this type of noise also. DOES your car pull to any side when you brake?

Calipers were rebuilt when I first got them.

I have been using Z32 Duralast Brake Pads for a few years, I understand that some are kinda funky but funky brake pads should not cause really loud brake squeal.

My car does not pull to any side, but I mainly hear the squeal on the driver side.

Brake pedal does not vibrate, does feel a bit soggy though or I could be over thinking things.

I forgot to mention that the squeal use to be even louder when I just put in the new brake pads and they squealed during light and hard braking. Then I just bought that anti squeal stuff, and said whatever and bought new rotors. After I applied the lube and rotors, the sound went away but after a few days it came back and only happens during light braking.

The few solutions that I can think of right now is that I need new shims (but I have read that some people don't even run shims and are fine), I tore something in the piston while compressing them during the install but so far I do not see a noticeable drop in brake fluid from my BMC, or the brake pads are just faulty.

[jdm240sx122]

What brand of stainless cluch line would you prefer??
*Circuit sports
*Isis
*Agency power

Im soucing parts for a 5 speed swap & was wondering if anyone had any opinions on which line they thought might be superior to the other.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Originally Posted by jdm240sx122

What brand of stainless cluch line would you prefer??
*Circuit sports
*Isis
*Agency power

Im soucing parts for a 5 speed swap & was wondering if anyone had any opinions on which line they thought might be superior to the other.

I got mine from SPLParts and it's holding up great.

They're probably all the same anyway.

[jdm240sx122]

^ Ya, thats kinda what I figured I just thought Id ask before I bought.......

[daftphunk]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

you may have used a 1 prong bulb rather than a 2 prong bulb so only brakes work now or something - or a blown fuse

Well let me clear it up that the passenger side, the one that I replaced cause it was blown, works. Its just that the driver side, which wasn't blown, but I decided to replace it anyways for consistency stopped working after I replaced it.

I tried putting the old bulb back in as well, but with no success. It really bugs me. I'm thinking that a wire must have gotten fucked up somewhere in the process... but the process is so simple so I don't know how it could've gotten ruined.

Is there any way for me to check? I'm guessing with a multi meter, which I have, but not the most apt at using. Not sure where to touch, etc.

[chingon]

I heard mishimotos had this issue at some point, and I just got an ebay rad w/inlet/outlet diameters of 1.25''. Stocker is around 1.375'', so I'm wondering if the hose is going to want to clamp on correctly. Vendor also carries the larger diameter inlet/outlet rad, but at a premium.

Anyone experience problems w/hoses coming lose/leaking? I'm hoping the clamp will close the sucker down...Will the 3mm difference screw things up?

[Audios]

will s13 ichiba 5 lugs directly bolt on an s14? And i dont think the rears work but can someone clarify the rears too? TIA

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by jdm240sx122

What brand of stainless cluch line would you prefer??
*Circuit sports
*Isis
*Agency power

i have agency power and, although it could be better, its working fine. I just wish it has two 90* bends, and was a tad bit shorter - like 4 inches

[codyace]

Originally Posted by niteridaz503

anyone????

No way to tell until you tear it apart. In thoery, you shoudln't need to change anything preload/adjust wise, as you're only swapping the differential over to the housing, not the gears. Still a good idea to check, but I'd be willing to bet that 95% of 240 guys with LSD just swap em in and do burnouts.

Originally Posted by unlegendary

hey i have louder than normal brake squeal during light braking, but if i press harder it'll disappear. It will not squeal before warm up. Panic stops will stop squeal. The squeal only happens on the driver side.

Sounds like the pad itself. Some will sqeal, some won't.

I'd take it out onto the highway and do some 70mph to 20 stops in a row (do like 3 in a row). Don't come to a complete stop, just brake till 20, then accel back to 70 and repate. 3 times and you'll feel the pedal getting squishy...then drive 10 or so miles on the highway without touching the brakes, this will help cool em off. Turn around, use the brakes lightly, and then drive another 10 miles or so without touching the brakes. THis should help bed them in. May help reduce noise.

Originally Posted by chingon

I heard mishimotos had this issue at some point, and I just got an ebay rad w/inlet/outlet diameters of 1.25''. Stocker is around 1.375'', so I'm wondering if the hose is going to want to clamp on correctly. Vendor also carries the larger diameter inlet/outlet rad, but at a premium.

We didn't have any issues with the Mishimoto's i've installed with OEM or Samco hoses...just use a quality clamp and you'll be good.

[dillardkid121]

My idle oscillates between 1500 and 2000rpm after the car is warm but on start up its idles at about 2200rpms which sounds kind of high to me. Also when I rev high and shift my car spits smoke likes its a diesel. I have a redtop sr20 and was wondering if anybody could think of what the problem is.

[chiboy002]

kinda same problem

if im driving and my car is well after being warmed up (oil temps and everything are warm)

idle will change between 700, 1200, and 1800 rpms. Sometimes it'll stick at 1800 for a bit then drop back to 1200 then slowly to 700 - sometimes right to 1200 - and sometimes normal

any ideas? IACV adjustment didn't fix it very much

[pink godzila]

? inch of the holes on the S14 trunk

[heavenboundkevin]

Originally Posted by jdm240sx122

What brand of stainless cluch line would you prefer??
*Circuit sports
*Isis
*Agency power

Im soucing parts for a 5 speed swap & was wondering if anyone had any opinions on which line they thought might be superior to the other.

just want to also chime in,. i had a circuit sports, and I had it rubbing against the header "down tube?" for 10,000 miles before a hole burned through. Keep in mind the line is under some pretty high pressure. So no complaints for the quality there.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

kinda same problem

if im driving and my car is well after being warmed up (oil temps and everything are warm)

idle will change between 700, 1200, and 1800 rpms. Sometimes it'll stick at 1800 for a bit then drop back to 1200 then slowly to 700 - sometimes right to 1200 - and sometimes normal

any ideas? IACV adjustment didn't fix it very much

Did you clean the IACV? Sure no vacuum issues? Remember the only way for it to really change idle is to put the car into timing/idle mode and then adjust.

Originally Posted by pink godzila

? inch of the holes on the S14 trunk

Which holes?

[Schassis707]

Ok so I have dmax crystal lights but kinda like the smoked ones more, I was wondering if there is a film that i can place over them to make them temporarily smoked as if i want to take it off i can? will window tint work and just not heat it on them so it will come off?

[joshls2]

Originally Posted by pink godzila

? inch of the holes on the S14 trunk

o__O ..thats weird, I just measured mine today. heres what I came up with:
the first hole(closest to the front of the car) is 3/8.
the second hole(behind it)is 10mm.
and the fifth,largest hole(the right side)is 12mm.

I'm assuming ur getting hole plugs, as am I, so here is a cool website for ya': http://www.widgetco.com/hole-plugs

[Driice]

I just bought a 98 240sx and when I check the Carfax it'll say 240sx SE/LE. I'm not sure why it says both trims? I've checked other 240sx Carfax and it'll either say SE or LE, but mine says both? Any reason why?

[Irresistible]

I'm going to be installing new adjustable RUCAs and toe rods. From what I know, and have read, I can just use the bolts that held the stock arms on. Can anyone confirm?

Also, I just installed OP Parts rotors from FR Sport on all 4 wheels, and Hawk HP+ pads in front and some Duralast Gold pads in the rear from Autozone. Didn't bleed fluid or adjust the ebrake. Would that be the reason the pedal feels a little softer than before, and the ebrake doesn't lock up the rear wheels like it used to? It actually doesn't lock the wheels at all... Or do I just have to wear the pads in a little bit? Also, when I brake a little harder, it kind of pulls to the right side, and I don't think it did that before, can the brakes be causing this?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Driice

I just bought a 98 240sx and when I check the Carfax it'll say 240sx SE/LE. I'm not sure why it says both trims? I've checked other 240sx Carfax and it'll either say SE or LE, but mine says both? Any reason why?

They all say that. There is no difference in the VINs between the trims.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by Schassis707

Ok so I have dmax crystal lights but kinda like the smoked ones more, I was wondering if there is a film that i can place over them to make them temporarily smoked as if i want to take it off i can? will window tint work and just not heat it on them so it will come off?

Lamin-x Protective Films - Protect with Style

Kinda pricey though.

[arj]

whats up guys i need some help so my stock kade with header, testpipe and 3" exhaust has a problem it won't rev past 4000 rpm and i still have the stock airbox. TIA