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Old 03-19-2011, 11:20 PM   #5161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
They all say that. There is no difference in the VINs between the trims.
Actually I've checked a few 240sx on Carfax and none of them say both SE/LE. They either said SE or LE, but never both. They weren't 98's though.
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:14 AM   #5162
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I'm going to be installing new adjustable RUCAs and toe rods. From what I know, and have read, I can just use the bolts that held the stock arms on. Can anyone confirm?

Also, I just installed OP Parts rotors from FR Sport on all 4 wheels, and Hawk HP+ pads in front and some Duralast Gold pads in the rear from Autozone. Didn't bleed fluid or adjust the ebrake. Would that be the reason the pedal feels a little softer than before, and the ebrake doesn't lock up the rear wheels like it used to? It actually doesn't lock the wheels at all... Or do I just have to wear the pads in a little bit? Also, when I brake a little harder, it kind of pulls to the right side, and I don't think it did that before, can the brakes be causing this?
used the eccentric bolts on my arms - been riding fine with them and i wasn't told anything by the alignment guys both times i went

as for brakes, break them in the right way and it'll grip better
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:16 AM   #5163
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Did you clean the IACV? Sure no vacuum issues? Remember the only way for it to really change idle is to put the car into timing/idle mode and then adjust.
oh snap, i didn't know that - i always thought just messing with the screw would change it. Any bad effects from doing it that way?

I'm going to clean it as soon as i feel like buying all the gaskets lol - no vacuum leaks as far as i know but i did remove a bunch of vacuum lines this winter so i can double check
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:24 AM   #5164
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oh snap, i didn't know that - i always thought just messing with the screw would change it. Any bad effects from doing it that way?

I'm going to clean it as soon as i feel like buying all the gaskets lol - no vacuum leaks as far as i know but i did remove a bunch of vacuum lines this winter so i can double check
what motor? For my kade all i did was remove the idle screw and spray into it, than on the intake i pulled the line off and had a buddy spray in when i held a bit on the gas (otherwise it will die and bog out) or just seafoam it.
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use paint colors from other vehicles on your 240 too bolts right on
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:24 AM   #5165
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I got another new question, did a bunch of searching on google and other forums but need PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, im thinking about seafoaming my car. Want to know if its safe to do on my motor. Im only going to do the 1/3 fuel system and than 1/3 in the brake booster vacuum line.

A little more info on the motor: no more than 120,000 miles, compression is roughly 165/170 all across, no smoke upon starting and running just normal condensation. However I heard it can potentially mess up gaskets? my valve cover gasket leaks thats about it, and also im about due for an oil change so i thought now would be a good time.

Opinions please... and thanks
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use paint colors from other vehicles on your 240 too bolts right on
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:20 AM   #5166
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Is it possible to patch a small oil leak in the head gasket with RTV sealant without taking the head off?
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:00 PM   #5167
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has anyone purchased a DME rear strut bar for an s14 and installed it? if so, how is it strut bar suppose to fit?

I already cut my backseat/strut tower cover, but it does not sit right.
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #5168
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Has anyone shaved their front fenders rather than Roll them? If so, did you prefer shaving the lip off over rolling? Did it make the front fenders less rigid or no?
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Old 03-20-2011, 04:57 PM   #5169
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my oil pressure gauge has been working fine but today as i parked my car i noticed it was stuck past 10kpa. Like stuck maxed out, turned the car off, unplugged and everything but nothing did the job...

Its blitz so i doubt its the gauge itself but any ideas?
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:46 PM   #5170
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Anyone know of 35 hole barrels in 17's with like maybe a +12/+15 offset?

Looking for new barrels for these

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Old 03-20-2011, 09:31 PM   #5171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schassis707 View Post
I got another new question, did a bunch of searching on google and other forums but need PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, im thinking about seafoaming my car. Want to know if its safe to do on my motor. Im only going to do the 1/3 fuel system and than 1/3 in the brake booster vacuum line.

A little more info on the motor: no more than 120,000 miles, compression is roughly 165/170 all across, no smoke upon starting and running just normal condensation. However I heard it can potentially mess up gaskets? my valve cover gasket leaks thats about it, and also im about due for an oil change so i thought now would be a good time.

Opinions please... and thanks

Run Seafoam per directions, change oil after. I'ts not gonna fix the leak, but will help. Just FOLLOW the directions. Can't hurt anything. I just use the vacuum method.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dillardkid121 View Post
Is it possible to patch a small oil leak in the head gasket with RTV sealant without taking the head off?
Depends on how bad it is. Clean it well, give it a shot. Worth the cents a try.

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Has anyone shaved their front fenders rather than Roll them? If so, did you prefer shaving the lip off over rolling? Did it make the front fenders less rigid or no?
I've shaven quite a few porsches now, all without issue.
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:33 PM   #5172
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quick noob question iv seen auto to manual clutch lines but does it matter what clutch line you use on a 97 ? thanks
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:41 PM   #5173
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never mind
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:49 PM   #5174
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Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
used the eccentric bolts on my arms - been riding fine with them and i wasn't told anything by the alignment guys both times i went

as for brakes, break them in the right way and it'll grip better
Thanks. Is there a proper torque for them?
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:59 PM   #5175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by closgatakouki View Post
quick noob question iv seen auto to manual clutch lines but does it matter what clutch line you use on a 97 ? thanks
NO

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hey guys what is an average price for a 1990 flip up fender? i need some price ranges because i have no idea what they go for and i dont want to get ripped off
I can get brand new fenders from a parts store for $130-150, that should give you and idea of how much a used one should be. Just lower the price accordingly based on condition.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:22 PM   #5176
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Anyone know of 35 hole barrels in 17's with like maybe a +12/+15 offset?

Looking for new barrels for these

..... if you cant find a barrel you want lmk ill take these off your hands...(fingers crossed )

Oh and P.S. i still got an interior harness for you im gonna send you a pm in a min
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use paint colors from other vehicles on your 240 too bolts right on
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:27 PM   #5177
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I just picked em up today, thats why Im looking for new barrels. Sorry broski, lol

Im just not trying to pay $300 a wheel to get them widened.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:24 PM   #5178
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Hey guys,

I hope this is the right section. Feel free to move the post to the appropriate section if necessary.

This is directed mostly at the Kouki 180sx Aero Thread/Early 2000's Japanese drift guru's. I am wondering if anyone might know specifically what issue/'s of HyperRev/Battle Magazine/Drift Tengoku/Option/etc have car features on the following:

- Itai's blue HotRoad/Bronze TE37 180SX
- Koguchi's black HotRoad/Blitz Z1 + Blitz Z2 + LMGT4 180SX
- Ito's red kouki aero with R33 N1 vents/Bronze TE37 180SX
- 'With Run' green kouki aero/Bronze Advan Model 5(I think) 180SX
- 'Sexy Knights' black SexyStyle aero/Panasport C5C2 180SX

Any help would be much appreciated.


Cheers.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:28 AM   #5179
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I have a 96 240sx and my clutch works and engages and everything but i have a small problem it doesn't come all the way completely back up. I usually just tap it a few times when im in a gear to make the clutch pedal come all the way back up. Whats is the promblem? Should i get a new clutch cylinder?
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:19 AM   #5180
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Well let me clear it up that the passenger side, the one that I replaced cause it was blown, works. Its just that the driver side, which wasn't blown, but I decided to replace it anyways for consistency stopped working after I replaced it.

I tried putting the old bulb back in as well, but with no success. It really bugs me. I'm thinking that a wire must have gotten fucked up somewhere in the process... but the process is so simple so I don't know how it could've gotten ruined.

Is there any way for me to check? I'm guessing with a multi meter, which I have, but not the most apt at using. Not sure where to touch, etc.
Still looking for help with this. Thanks
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:02 AM   #5181
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Thanks. Is there a proper torque for them?
subframe side 51-65 ft lbs
knuckle side 57-72 ft lbs

except toe rod knuckle side is 36-51 ft lbs
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:07 AM   #5182
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what are the benefits of going with forged steel rather than going with chromoly sway bars?
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:38 AM   #5183
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Havent really found an answer, googled and even looked on here but just want a definitvie answer before i buy. Are the Blitz BLM gauges electric or mechanical?? Ive read that there electric, that there mechanical, that only the boost is mechanical. Someone who owns or has installed them please chime in, Ive had Defi BF's but dont really wanna run those again, so looking into the STRI gauges but really like these BLM's
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:53 AM   #5184
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my oil pressure gauge has been working fine but today as i parked my car i noticed it was stuck past 10kpa. Like stuck maxed out, turned the car off, unplugged and everything but nothing did the job...

Its blitz so i doubt its the gauge itself but any ideas?
update: Turned my car on today, first time since having posted this, and the oil gauge works. I don't know why its doing this, any ideas?

The gauge is literally brand new, i haven't had it installed for more than 5 days, so i have no idea
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:54 PM   #5185
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quick dumb question, when i bought my kouki s14 it came with an OEM lip not attached, the holes are basically torn up. how should i go about re-mounting? should i drill new holes through the bumper and lip (dont really want this)? what about plastiweld?
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:55 PM   #5186
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S14 Kouki Question,

Do I need to take off the bumper to change the s14 kouki headlights??
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:00 PM   #5187
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Quote:
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update: Turned my car on today, first time since having posted this, and the oil gauge works. I don't know why its doing this, any ideas?

The gauge is literally brand new, i haven't had it installed for more than 5 days, so i have no idea
Check your grounds...what kidna gauge is it?

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quick dumb question, when i bought my kouki s14 it came with an OEM lip not attached, the holes are basically torn up. how should i go about re-mounting? should i drill new holes through the bumper and lip (dont really want this)? what about plastiweld?
Plastic welding is an option, but you can also use a big fender washers and they may work too

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S14 Kouki Question,

Do I need to take off the bumper to change the s14 kouki headlights??
Nope. Gotta take out corner lamp to gain access to the 2 nuts on the side, and take the grill out to get to the 2 bolts there.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:34 PM   #5188
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when car is cold i feel like im fighting the power stearing.

kinda locks up at points

once it warms up im fine...

Ps fluid is full?

my pump bad?
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:36 PM   #5189
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I would say pump. Or if you have a auto it may be your cooler.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:26 PM   #5190
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Check your grounds...what kidna gauge is it?
The grounds are bullet connectors spliced and soldered to the stock harness (2 butt connectors/wires join to 1 wire which is soldered to the harness)

Blitz blm
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