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Old 03-21-2011, 06:28 PM   #5191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
I would say pump. Or if you have a auto it may be your cooler.


thanks, guess ill start looking for a new one...


new small question

anyone have a power stearing pump for sale?
and are s13 and s14 interchangable?

what about sohc and dohc?
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:37 PM   #5192
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look in the for sale section I see em there all the time, bu I would personally just buy a new one. you dont want to start with someone elses problems.
Remeber to take the old one in with you if you get a new on because there will be a core charge.

and.....
s13 dohc/s14 are interchangeable.
I dont think sohc will work since its on the opposite side of the engine
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:26 PM   #5193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2v7 View Post
when car is cold i feel like im fighting the power stearing.

kinda locks up at points

once it warms up im fine...

Ps fluid is full?

my pump bad?
Drain all the fluid out and put new ATF in.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:33 PM   #5194
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Yes do what he said first ^

I always assume people have already done shit like that before posting and asking for help. Sorry
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:18 PM   #5195
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Drain all the fluid out and put new ATF in.
word didnt think of that but i like the idea thxxx!
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:41 PM   #5196
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anyone ever jumped timing or broken the timing chain before? whats the chance of valve/piston damage? Car killed over at about 2.5k leaving a light. I try to crank, and all i hear is i guess the starting spinning. sounds like an electric can opener.
Quote:
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I've personally never heard of it happening, but it's possible. Pull off oil cap, have a friend crank it, and see ife the cams move.



Not the same. IIRC you can make KA24E ones work, but I've never personally done it. If you're looking for an alterantor with better output (125 amps) you can use one of my conversion kits with a Quest Alternator.
I look through the oil filler and the cams are still turning, so the chain is not broke?

Ill take off the valve cover sometime and get another look. Right before what ever it is happened, the idle was bad, and the car was bucking holding a steady RPM in a fixed gear, but no bucking for acceleration.
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:49 PM   #5197
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ok, i confirmed my "volks" arent volks. im now thinking they are the Varrstoen reps. how can i tell if they are in fact Varrstoen?? i did some research but found nothing of use.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:12 AM   #5198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKL1031 View Post
I look through the oil filler and the cams are still turning, so the chain is not broke?

Ill take off the valve cover sometime and get another look. Right before what ever it is happened, the idle was bad, and the car was bucking holding a steady RPM in a fixed gear, but no bucking for acceleration.
THink about it...the chain goes around the crank shaft, and the cams...if the chian is broken, and you spin the engine over, only the engine will turn...the cams need the gear to turn. So yes, if you see the chain moving then you can be assured the chain is at least still in tact. Could it have jumped a tooth? Sure...but that would mean that the tensioner has failed completely or is missing.

Did you check over vacuum leaks and the sort? Nothing else broken?

-CA
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:21 AM   #5199
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Is there a way to get rid of all that shit under the stock intake manifold? Theres way too many wires and what not. If I buy a new manifold does all that (or most of it) disappear? Currently looking at Excessive for a replacement.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:39 AM   #5200
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i tried googling but came up with tooo many answers. none thast answered my question.

what are the benefits of going with forged steel rather than going with chromoly sway bars?
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:28 AM   #5201
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THink about it...the chain goes around the crank shaft, and the cams...if the chian is broken, and you spin the engine over, only the engine will turn...the cams need the gear to turn. So yes, if you see the chain moving then you can be assured the chain is at least still in tact. Could it have jumped a tooth? Sure...but that would mean that the tensioner has failed completely or is missing.

Did you check over vacuum leaks and the sort? Nothing else broken?

-CA
yea its just that everyoen was telling me that, and the car sat for 3 weeks at the shop, taht told me the same, but they didnt even bother to really check anything out. The engine isnt turning over, all i get when i turn the key is electric can opener noise.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:37 PM   #5202
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do you have to remove the cams to replace the valve stem seals on sr20?
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:44 PM   #5203
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my goal power is 250whp to the wheels.

what KA-t options do i have to get there? because ka-t is the cheapest route, and swapping the motor is out of the question.

also, my car has a starting delay problem.

i will press the clutch in, start the car, and nothing happens. at times, i have to pump the clutch over and over and over again to get it started. other times, i only have to pump the clutch a few times. and sometimes it starts right up.
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Old 03-22-2011, 10:57 PM   #5204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamg View Post
my goal power is 250whp to the wheels.

what KA-t options do i have to get there? because ka-t is the cheapest route, and swapping the motor is out of the question.

also, my car has a starting delay problem.

i will press the clutch in, start the car, and nothing happens. at times, i have to pump the clutch over and over and over again to get it started. other times, i only have to pump the clutch a few times. and sometimes it starts right up.
check your neutral safety switch or you have a bad starter relay.
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:31 AM   #5205
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What flares?
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:06 AM   #5206
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What flares?
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/174916-identify-thread.html
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:56 AM   #5207
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Hoe big are the lips on xxr 521 18x10 +25???
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:37 AM   #5208
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the 350z seats are really nice, has anyone tried them in a s13? I know its a dumb question, but when I seaarched seats and Zs, I got nothing..
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:48 PM   #5209
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yeah, people have installed them. IIRC, 3 out of the 4 mounting holes line up, you have to modify the mounting brackets to get the 4th hole to line up.
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:30 PM   #5210
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yeah, people have installed them. IIRC, 3 out of the 4 mounting holes line up, you have to modify the mounting brackets to get the 4th hole to line up.
I think it requires more work then that.
I have a set in my hatch, but they were already "rigged" up when I bought them.

Previous owner attached stock s13 seat brackets to Z33 rails. Just needs to be lined up a little bit and welded together, then they should fit good.

The way mine are mounted, they dont slide far enough back.
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Old 03-23-2011, 01:31 PM   #5211
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What should my FPR be set at for this setup:

Walbro 255 lph, stock rail, 550cc injectors, nismo FPR
S13 SR Blacktop GT2871r .64
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:22 PM   #5212
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the 350z seats are really nice, has anyone tried them in a s13? I know its a dumb question, but when I seaarched seats and Zs, I got nothing..
it will work.

you have to weld on the brackets from teh stock s13 seats onto the 350z seats.

Z33 Seats into a S-Chassis How-To : 240sx General Discussion
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:02 PM   #5213
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do you have to remove the cams to replace the valve stem seals on sr20?

Anyone?

Also, anyone know where the ambient temp switch is mounted from factory?
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:05 PM   #5214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Origin View Post
Is there a way to get rid of all that shit under the stock intake manifold? Theres way too many wires and what not. If I buy a new manifold does all that (or most of it) disappear? Currently looking at Excessive for a replacement.
Just evaluate what you need/don't need and clean it up yourself. You can hide or delete whatever you want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellion240sx View Post
what are the benefits of going with forged steel rather than going with chromoly sway bars?
They all will work the same for a street based car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKL1031 View Post
yea its just that everyoen was telling me that, and the car sat for 3 weeks at the shop, taht told me the same, but they didnt even bother to really check anything out. The engine isnt turning over, all i get when i turn the key is electric can opener noise.
Ever try checking the see if the starter itself is good? What about putting a 1 1/16 socket on the crank, and spinning it over by hand?

You gotta get a little more proactive with the problem instead of searching online.

Quote:
Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
do you have to remove the cams to replace the valve stem seals on sr20?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamg View Post
my goal power is 250whp to the wheels.

what KA-t options do i have to get there? because ka-t is the cheapest route, and swapping the motor is out of the question.
If you're modding your car 'the cheapest' way, I'd suggest to not modify it at all until you can afford to do it right, or afford major parts in the event of a disaster.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamg View Post

i will press the clutch in, start the car, and nothing happens. at times, i have to pump the clutch over and over and over again to get it started. other times, i only have to pump the clutch a few times. and sometimes it starts right up.
Nuetal Safety Switch
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:09 PM   #5215
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Quote:
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Anyone?
Yes you will need to also take out the springs too.

Quote:
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Also, anyone know where the ambient temp switch is mounted from factory?
This I don't.
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:43 PM   #5216
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Also, anyone know where the ambient temp switch is mounted from factory?
Hood latch support.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:28 PM   #5217
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Hey guys I want to wrap my interior tomorrow. I am doing the headliner, the door panels, glove box, and shift boot. I have the shift boot done and it looks awesome! Now my question is. How do I do the door panels? Meaning do I have to cut the panel out, and then glue it back in? Please if anyone has any information site or anything from personal experience please PM me about it!

Thanks a lot!!!
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:18 PM   #5218
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Exclamation

Hey guys I have a question and can't find anything anywhere on it so ill ask it here. I have a vlsd from a j30 but it did not come with a pumpkin. I am thinking of using my old open diff. pumpkin with j30 output flanges and j30/z32 axles. Do you guys see any problem with this? would the output shaft even fit onto the open diff pumpkin?
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:27 PM   #5219
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NOOB QUESTION
What happens if i dont run a boost and A/F gauge for awhile?
Im swapping to an SR btw.
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:50 PM   #5220
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NOOB QUESTION
What happens if i dont run a boost and A/F gauge for awhile?
Im swapping to an SR btw.
Depends how far the car is modded, you should be fine cause it is just a "stock" swap. those cars came factory in japan with them and i dont believe they have a boost gauge stock there, and i KNOW they dont have a a/f gauge.
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