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Old 06-18-2015, 07:08 PM   #5311
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Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86 View Post
Yes sir I do have a build thread. Running koyo Sr radiator, TRD thermostat, Toyota coolant and distilled water. One Derale fan / one mishimoto fan
I'm looking on eBay at the derale fans and there's allot of styles available.which is the I've you personally run? Thanks for the input as well.Gonna check your thread out now.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:11 PM   #5312
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I'm looking on eBay at the derale fans and there's allot of styles available.which is the I've you personally run? Thanks for the input as well.Gonna check your thread out now.

No problem.

Derale Cooling Products 16925 Ho Rad Fan Pusher
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:18 PM   #5313
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No problem.

Derale Cooling Products 16925 Ho Rad Fan Pusher
Haha cool.I'm actually reading your thread and doing my research on borgwarners . Any personal input?
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:50 PM   #5314
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Hope this may save some people future headache but on my 2J coupe I used the 2JZGE pump with the factory reservoir that is attached to the top of the pump to clean my engine bay up a bit. Long story short it did not work and my pump squeeled like a pig whe I turned the wheel. I've since used my factory reservoir and mounted it back to the shocktower.

For those that don't know what the GE PS reservoir looks like ^^^
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:19 PM   #5315
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Hope this may save some people future headache but on my 2J coupe I used the 2JZGE pump with the factory reservoir that is attached to the top of the pump to clean my engine bay up a bit. Long story short it did not work and my pump squeeled like a pig whe I turned the wheel. I've since used my factory reservoir and mounted it back to the shocktower.

For those that don't know what the GE PS reservoir looks like ^^^

So what did you wind up doing? Lol
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:57 PM   #5316
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Just used my factory reservoir in the factory location on the driver side shock towers. Gotta bleed to ps system to see if it'll work again like before. I had to install a steering rack as well bc mine was leaking and pouring fluid out the reservoir when I turn the car off
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:42 PM   #5317
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Picked up my motor today ands have my Megan mani and s366 on the way. I'm going to be removing the twins from this 2jzgte aristo motor this week along with performing maintenance ands wanted to know if some one can point me in the direction on where to find a thread on what vacuums ands water lines I can delete/have to re route I order to simplify/clean things up.Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:26 AM   #5318
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Got my motor and started removing the twins.


Quick question, what is our does that nipple go to coming out of the back of the block I the exhaust side?
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:12 AM   #5319
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Quick question, what is our does that nipple go to coming out of the back of the block I the exhaust side?

It's just a coolant drain, there should be a bolt right above it that you can twist to open it. Nothing goes to it.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:46 AM   #5320
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It's just a coolant drain, there should be a bolt right above it that you can twist to open it. Nothing goes to it.
Oh ok cool thanks.should I open it and release whatever coolant was trapped inside? Also what vacuums can I eliminate clean up on the intake manifold?I see the iacv and map are feed to I think the stock fpr? Is that correct?
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:53 AM   #5321
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Originally Posted by bkg775 View Post
Hope this may save some people future headache but on my 2J coupe I used the 2JZGE pump with the factory reservoir that is attached to the top of the pump to clean my engine bay up a bit. Long story short it did not work and my pump squeeled like a pig whe I turned the wheel. I've since used my factory reservoir and mounted it back to the shocktower.
That blows, I was looking to do the same since I have a freddy manifold.

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Oh ok cool thanks.should I open it and release whatever coolant was trapped inside? Also what vacuums can I eliminate clean up on the intake manifold?I see the iacv and map are feed to I think the stock fpr? Is that correct?
Yep, drain that dookie dook dook old coolant out (be sure to use toyota Red coolant when the time comes). Only vac lines you need are Map, FPR, and brake booster. Depending one which stock 2j manifold you have (some came with a fitting for the brake booster, some didn't) you should have enough nipples for each. Put a filter over the IACV.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:06 AM   #5322
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Anyone ever had an air leak at the injectors? I'm new to top feed injectors and was having some running issues (1JZ VVTI) with high idle and break up under load. I did a boost leak test and found air rushing out of the intake manifold where the injectors seat.

I went and bought new isolators today at Toyota but am unsure if that will stop them from leaking. Parts catalog makes me think there isn't any other seal there I should replace.

Toyota P/N is 23291-41010 for those interested.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:06 AM   #5323
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That blows, I was looking to do the same since I have a freddy manifold.



Yep, drain that dookie dook dook old coolant out (be sure to use toyota Red coolant when the time comes). Only vac lines you need are Map, FPR, and brake booster. Depending one which stock 2j manifold you have (some came with a fitting for the brake booster, some didn't) you should have enough nipples for each. Put a filter over the IACV.
Yea there's no fitting for the brake booster, just a bolt in the top. What should I do about that?
Ands can you explain about the filter in the iacv?
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:30 PM   #5324
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Somewhere in this thread there's a link for the banjo bolt u need to run the brake booster to the Intake mani if that what u mean
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:42 PM   #5325
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How's your Monday night 12 am? Cause this is what I'm doing.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:55 PM   #5326
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Anyone ever had an air leak at the injectors? I'm new to top feed injectors and was having some running issues (1JZ VVTI) with high idle and break up under load. I did a boost leak test and found air rushing out of the intake manifold where the injectors seat.

I went and bought new isolators today at Toyota but am unsure if that will stop them from leaking. Parts catalog makes me think there isn't any other seal there I should replace.

Toyota P/N is 23291-41010 for those interested.
Some people will silicone them in like in this picture:


Also, make sure you have the right injector bosses/bungs for whichever top feed injectors you have. I think they are usually 11mm or 14mm. I'm assuming these are aftermarket.
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:08 AM   #5327
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Thanks supercompact, I found the injectors had a good amount of axial play in the rail so found some spacers at a hardware store that I used to keep them seated against the isolator in the intake manifold. Started it up last night and sounded to have a lower idle and revved much smoother. Going to boost leak test tonight and verify.


Also, pretty sweet you can actually remove the injectors without taking off the intake manifold. I just took off throttle body and IACV and was able to get down there to unbolt the rail with relative ease.
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:54 AM   #5328
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Yea there's no fitting for the brake booster, just a bolt in the top. What should I do about that?
Ands can you explain about the filter in the iacv?
I just went to toyota to get the banjo and banjo bolt and washers. The option that someone did in this thread is cheaper though.

As for the IACV, remove the rubber hose and slip one of these on.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-62-1360/
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Old 06-30-2015, 12:39 PM   #5329
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I just went to toyota to get the banjo and banjo bolt and washers. The option that someone did in this thread is cheaper though.

As for the IACV, remove the rubber hose and slip one of these on.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-62-1360/
Ok got the booster part, but with the iacv, isn't that filter that you linked me to for the exhaust side valve cover ? Looks to small to fit over the huge iacv fitting, please correct me if I'm wrong .
World you happen to have a pic of your stock intake manifold with all deletions done to it.(coolant lines, vacuums ,ect.)
Thanks brother
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Old 06-30-2015, 04:31 PM   #5330
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Ok got the booster part, but with the iacv, isn't that filter that you linked me to for the exhaust side valve cover ? Looks to small to fit over the huge iacv fitting, please correct me if I'm wrong .

World you happen to have a pic of your stock intake manifold with all deletions done to it.(coolant lines, vacuums ,ect.)

Thanks brother

Check my build - I think I have pics of all that and part numbers
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:23 PM   #5331
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Coolant pipe

I'm getting ready to go single and my borg warner turbo uses oil only. I don't need coolant...so has anyone ever deleted the pipe all together and made a block off for the water pump and the heater core feed on the back of the head?
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:27 PM   #5332
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I'm getting ready to go single and my borg warner turbo uses oil only. I don't need coolant...so has anyone ever deleted the pipe all together and made a block off for the water pump and the heater core feed on the back of the head?
Instead of blocking it off, get a ge water pipe to eliminate all the coolant lines off the water output for the stock twins since you won't be using them no more.I'm doing the same and will upload a pic tonight some I'm getting it today from toyota.
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:32 PM   #5333
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Instead of blocking it off, get a ge water pipe to eliminate all the coolant lines off the water output for the stock twins since you won't be using them no more.I'm doing the same and will upload a pic tonight some I'm getting it today from toyota.
Yes. Im aware of using a the ge coolant pipe. But in a 240sx it still doesn't get rid of the problem of having a hose coming out of the back of the head that's higher than the rad cap. (Pita air pockets)

I'm wondering if the system would have adequate return without the pipe?
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:36 PM   #5334
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Yes. Im aware of using a the ge coolant pipe. But in a 240sx it still doesn't get rid of the problem of having a hose coming out of the back of the head that's higher than the rad cap. (Pita air pockets)

I'm wondering if the system would have adequate return without the pipe?
Post a pic I'm not understanding.I'd you mean the coolant pipe that sticks straight up, loop it to your ge coolant pipe if you're not worried about heat
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:43 PM   #5335
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Post a pic I'm not understanding.I'd you mean the coolant pipe that sticks straight up, loop it to your ge coolant pipe if you're not worried about heat
Being a track car i have no need for heat. I would like to get rid of the pipe all together.

A hose connected to the nipple on the back of the head makes that hose the highest point in the coolant system in which causes potential air pockets
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Old 07-01-2015, 03:42 PM   #5336
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Being a track car i have no need for heat. I would like to get rid of the pipe all together.



A hose connected to the nipple on the back of the head makes that hose the highest point in the coolant system in which causes potential air pockets

Jack the front of the car up nice and high when bleeding [emoji16] I've got that setup and no problems
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:18 PM   #5337
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Jack the front of the car up nice and high when bleeding [emoji16] I've got that setup and no problems

Agreed, or park it on a nice steep hill and burp all the air out.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #5338
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Any one running a cx racing turbo manifold?I got the cheaper 160$ one and it didn't line up for shit.any suggestions besides throw it away?
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:27 AM   #5339
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Any one running a cx racing turbo manifold?I got the cheaper 160$ one and it didn't line up for shit.any suggestions besides throw it away?

Send it back
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:52 AM   #5340
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Any one running a cx racing turbo manifold?I got the cheaper 160$ one and it didn't line up for shit.any suggestions besides throw it away?

Is it just the studs that don't line up or the exhaust runners also? If just the studs, bore out the holes?
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