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Old 04-09-2011, 12:21 PM   #5461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1on1 View Post
1. I am not sure how much, but I went to town on my s14

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...1/5bebe186.jpg

2.


on the back of the tranny held by 1 10mm
perfect, thankyou.
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:05 PM   #5462
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Do the eBay 5 lug conversion hubs and Ichibas, etc. Use the same size wheel studs as OEM? Are the knurls size the same (14.3 front for S14s for instance)?
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:30 PM   #5463
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What size/thread pitch are the 3 exhaust side bolts on a Megan SR turbo elbow?

Feel dumb asking but dont have any extra bolts lying around to try and turbo/manifold/elbow are locked on the car already
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:02 AM   #5464
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When replacing my power steering line, one of the wires on the sensor broke.

It broke at the base of the sensor, so its near impossible to reattach.

what does this sensor do?
Am i screwed with it off while road racing?
I will be at the track so PLEASE text me answers.

*** *** ****
thanks
eric castro


Also, tried to take that sensor out of the tranny, for the speedo, and some gear oil came out so i put it back in, but only a little dixie cups worth.
does that mean my tranny fluid is low??

(i unplugged the sensor further up the line)

Last edited by ericcastro; 04-10-2011 at 05:34 AM..
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:04 AM   #5465
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dunno if youll see this eric but you should be good with the tranny fluid. I was gonna tell you not to take the VSS out, just disconnect it. You should have a CEL and no speedo but it should work for your purposes.

Also all that sensor does on the PS line is kicks up the pump at idle. You should be fine without it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:35 AM   #5466
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^Awesome, thankyou.

Text was there with my answers when i woke up, now to get ready and go
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:10 AM   #5467
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I'm under lifetime warranty for a single cam alternator with my last car. Will a sohc alternator work with a dohc ka?
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:50 AM   #5468
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perfect, thankyou.
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^Awesome, thankyou.

Text was there with my answers when i woke up, now to get ready and go

I know this may be late, but don't remove it, you'll spew gear oil everywhere. Just unplug it. Good luck

PS Sensor wise, it makes no difference.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:57 AM   #5469
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Is the reverse switch on the tranny pole sensitive? I had to solder mine on there but the reverse lights won't switch on.

Also is the FSM wrong in the labeling of the Tranny switches? It says reverse switch is 1st from bellhousing, but I'm working on the 2nd from bellhousing, when I short this one (FSM says Top position switch) Reverse lights go on. Do they both work in tandem somehow? My 2nd s13 also has the 2nd switch from Bellhousing torn off and reverse doesn't work.

Last edited by chingon; 04-10-2011 at 12:47 PM..
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:30 PM   #5470
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does anyone know if this will work on KA?

HKS 27006-AN001 Shift Return Spring Kit SR20DET

or point me in the direction where I can get one for the KA. This will probably fix my shifter going in circles while in gear, lol.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:40 PM   #5471
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Quote:
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PS Sensor wise, it makes no difference.
yeah the power steering sensor pretty much functions as nothing
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:13 PM   #5472
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Quote:
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does anyone know if this will work on KA?

HKS 27006-AN001 Shift Return Spring Kit SR20DET

or point me in the direction where I can get one for the KA. This will probably fix my shifter going in circles while in gear, lol.
Yea, that will work with the KA trans. You can also use RC car springs and such.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:07 PM   #5473
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My 3rd brake light on my hatch went out. i replaced both bulbs with some sylvania 921 from the local part store and they wont light up. I tried two new sets. I checked the plugs and they are getting power, just seems bulbs wont turn on. Any ideas?
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:36 PM   #5474
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thanks for the info!

another, I plan on purchasing a mishimoto rad this week and still run the clutch fan. Question, would the 3-row cause problems or can I only use the 2-row?
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:27 AM   #5475
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Quick question you guys, i have a z32 maf so do i need a z32 intake kit or sr20det intake kit??
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:55 AM   #5476
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I have a 5 speed swapped convertible. I came across information that stated that it runs a bit more rich when the car is wired into park (to make the top work). Any input into this? I had a manual hatch back that on a trip from oregon to colorado got around 385 - 410 miles to the tank while the convertible only gets 330 max on the same trip and the engine in the convertible has significantly less miles than the hatch. Im wondering if having the car wired in park is affecting its MPG?
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:32 AM   #5477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chingon View Post
Is the reverse switch on the tranny pole sensitive? I had to solder mine on there but the reverse lights won't switch on.
They shouldn't make any difference on which wire, as when the detent on the sensor is pushed in, it completes the circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chingon View Post
Also is the FSM wrong in the labeling of the Tranny switches? It says reverse switch is 1st from bellhousing, but I'm working on the 2nd from bellhousing, when I short this one (FSM says Top position switch) Reverse lights go on. Do they both work in tandem somehow? My 2nd s13 also has the 2nd switch from Bellhousing torn off and reverse doesn't work.
Unsure, but one's reverse, and one's 5th gear.

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does anyone know if this will work on KA?


or point me in the direction where I can get one for the KA. This will probably fix my shifter going in circles while in gear, lol.
Both transmissions are essentially the same, different bellhousings.

In regard to fixing the shifter going in circles, what sort of shifter kit do you have in it. Those springs really aren't going to make it 'wobble' less, they just work on the detent areas and control it coming back to center. Wobbly shifter usually is in the shifter itself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by track_warrior View Post
Quick question you guys, i have a z32 maf so do i need a z32 intake kit or sr20det intake kit??
Did you even search at all?

You'll need an intake that is turbo specific, than an adapter to the maf.

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I have a 5 speed swapped convertible. I came across information that stated that it runs a bit more rich when the car is wired into park (to make the top work). Any input into this? I had a manual hatch back that on a trip from oregon to colorado got around 385 - 410 miles to the tank while the convertible only gets 330 max on the same trip and the engine in the convertible has significantly less miles than the hatch. Im wondering if having the car wired in park is affecting its MPG?
Some things to consider:

-Being in park shouldn't cause the ECU to be in any particular mode, as you can run Auto ECU's in Manual Cars and vice versa. It'll throw a cod ebut not cause fuel consumption issues

-Different engines may simply run differently. To get that much fuel difference, I'd be looking into your o2 sensors, especially when cruising.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:00 PM   #5478
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Now I have a question of my own...I need to recirc my type R BOV, but I come to find out there's 4 different sizes: 19-21mm, 28-35mm, 40mm, and a 45mm. I'm running a S14 blacktop with a modified gtir T28 / nistune / 740cc injectors / walboro 255 / etc. etc.

Any suggestions on which one to go with? The BOV is being welded onto a PBM HMIC. I'm assuming one of the 2 smaller sizes will work?
Someone on here has to be running a recirc type R...
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:06 PM   #5479
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Just ran a compression test on my KA24DE...not good (55, 105, 100, 50). I want to swap a KA24DE back in. What years do I need to look for? Or is it even worth it to do a head gasket job and check the block for warpage?
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:42 PM   #5480
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You can spend as much buying a used running engine as you can fixing yours.

However I doubt its your headgasket causing low comp, along with that you need to get your head pressured tested and new piston rings probably.
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:11 PM   #5481
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You can spend as much buying a used running engine as you can fixing yours.

However I doubt its your headgasket causing low comp, along with that you need to get your head pressured tested and new piston rings probably.
So what would ya recommend...used engine or...rebuilt current one. As usual budget is a big concern.
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:32 PM   #5482
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depends on your skill level and how much you would have to pay someone else to do.

I can rebuild a motor myself (anyone can) but I still have to pay for machine work. so i can keep costs down somewhat. but if you dont have the skills and have to pay someone else to do then thats a whole nother story.

In all honesty rebuilding a KA to brand new specs is gonna cost at least $1k. If you just want to take someones word for it and slap their used motor in your car for 300 bux by all means do it. Just dont be surprised when that one starts to fail also.

Also depends on if you can take the downtime to rebuild your current motor.
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:37 PM   #5483
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depends on your skill level and how much you would have to pay someone else to do.

I can rebuild a motor myself (anyone can) but I still have to pay for machine work. so i can keep costs down somewhat. but if you dont have the skills and have to pay someone else to do then thats a whole nother story.

In all honesty rebuilding a KA to brand new specs is gonna cost at least $1k. If you just want to take someones word for it and slap their used motor in your car for 300 bux by all means do it. Just dont be surprised when that one starts to fail also.

Also depends on if you can take the downtime to rebuild your current motor.
Thanks for the advice. If I do it, this will be my first engine build. But the good thing is this is just a toy car for me...not my DD. I can take as much time as my patience can stand I might just tackle it. I'm not looking for all out performance...just a light fun car to drive and autox and track day.
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:28 PM   #5484
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So today I notice a weird sound coming from my back passenger side rotor and i look at it to see it looks like:

But my pad appear to be fine, I'm lost as to why its grinding the outside edge of the rotor. Any ideas?

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Old 04-11-2011, 04:53 PM   #5485
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So today I notice a weird sound coming from my back passenger side rotor and i look at it to see it looks like:

But my pad appear to be fine, I'm lost as to why its grinding the outside edge of the rotor. Any ideas?

Could be one of the clips that holds in the brake pads (aka brake retainers I believe). Check to make sure its not poking out and scratching the rotor.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:03 PM   #5486
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I thought about that and I'll have to look but the wear is pretty severe. Seems like a clip wouldnt be able to cause it.

Open to any and all ideas so I go in prepared!
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:11 PM   #5487
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^same thing happened to me, turned out the dust shroud had gotten twisted and was scraping the rotor, not sure if you have them on your rear brakes
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:17 PM   #5488
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No I glanced at the dust shroud on my way to class its not touching the front of the rotor. Thats what I was hoping it was.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:45 PM   #5489
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No I glanced at the dust shroud on my way to class its not touching the front of the rotor. Thats what I was hoping it was.
brake shim came lose and slowly moved forward and started scraping the rotor, that might be it.
The shim is the noise reducer on the back of pads, happened to mine except it wore down the center part
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:47 PM   #5490
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does anyone know what Ecu Code 33 is?

I googled and just a bunch of TPS sensors came up

i think thats what it is, i have a yashio factory coupler type gauge that flashed E-33 today
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