The Sr20/Sr22vet thread

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

If I ship you one, would I get price break??

Possibly

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

Possibly

Do you need a car with Nismo Mounts?

[Juan@Fontananissan]

Hanzbrady,

either you or your boss man shoot me an email, i can help you guys out.

[s13silvia123]

I'm not running pistons with valve reliefs at the moment, will I need to use P11 cams or stay with the stock P12 cams on a P12 head.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

I'm not running pistons with valve reliefs at the moment, will I need to use P11 cams or stay with the stock P12 cams on a P12 head.

P11 cams only. You'll need piston with reliefs to go any larger.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

I'm not running pistons with valve reliefs at the moment, will I need to use P11 cams or stay with the stock P12 cams on a P12 head.

Agreed with what Jr-ss and 600 said. However, are those DE or VE pistons and at what compression?? Compression (be it bowl or raised crown) will affect clearance. Stock DE 8.5:1 pistons you can get away with up to P12 cams (I have heard N1 cams, but I have not personally confirmed it so I will leave it at that).

Either way, if you have it apart and the engine is on your stand, just spend the extra 1 hour or so to clay it up. It you skimmed both the head and block (which is required), you may also think about degreeing the cams.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

I'm not running pistons with valve reliefs at the moment, will I need to use P11 cams or stay with the stock P12 cams on a P12 head.

just fyi. when I bought my engine, it had sr20 redtop block with cp sr20det pistons, eagle rods, p11 head, p11 cams, and I'm not sure if the cams were not degreed efficiently, but you could see marks where the valves had just barely kissed the pistons

needless to say I ditched them for cp VE pistons with valve relief notches.

I'm not saying you CAN'T run p11 cams with non-relief pistons, I'm just saying +1 for clay it.

[600supersport]

non-N1 sr16ve cams would clear with a bit more jam than the P11


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[s13silvia123]

Greddy DE 87mm pistons but I don't recall the compression ratio. I believe it was 9:0:1 correct me it I'm wrong. It's been almost 15 years since I had this motor. But I'm looking to scoop up a short built block for this build.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

Greddy DE 87mm pistons but I don't recall the compression ratio. I believe it was 9:0:1 correct me it I'm wrong. It's been almost 15 years since I had this motor. But I'm looking to scoop up a short built block for this build.

Then anything is available. I'd personally run JE DET at 8.5:1 on a pump gas motor. That'll give you roughly 9.3:1 static with a factory 1.1mm HG. You could drop down to a .9mm and gain a couple tenths in compression. Once you near the 10:1 mark, you really need some type of alternate fuel or octane booster (i.e. Meth injection).

[RZRSHARP_240SX]

I am running cp stroker pistons without valve reliefs and n1 cams. To get the clearance I used a thicker head gasket a cometic 1.5mm. Based on the calculations my compression ratio is at 8.7:1. And everything has been clayed and clears.

[RalliartRsX]

So is anyone using the VE 4CW crank in thier turbo build??

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

So is anyone using the VE 4CW crank in thier turbo build??

My tuner with the 1/4 mile world record for sr20 powered irs s-chassi is running a 4 counter weight crank in is sr21vet .

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

My tuner with the 1/4 mile world record for sr20 powered irs s-chassi is running a 4 counter weight crank in is sr21vet .

However, that is a very minor datapoint to me unfortunately. That is a full bore race engine. I am looking for longevity data for someone running them at trackdays, daily, etc in the 400WHP range reliably. Not quite the same

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

However, that is a very minor datapoint to me unfortunately. That is a full bore race engine. I am looking for longevity data for someone running them at trackdays, daily, etc in the 400WHP range reliably. Not quite the same

I have no data points to offer, however, the FCW will be significantly heavier than the 4CW. The 4CW will obviously help with revs, but not vibrations. You'll probably want that extra balance when spinning 8-9k quite often, especially in a track oriented car. Paired with an ATI damper, you should have quite a bit of longevity for your motor. Now obviously there are other factors to consider and forces at work. 400whp is a pretty tame SR these days. I think you'll be fine with whatever you chose to run.

Something to think about, factory DET crank is forged and pretty damn balanced from the start. There is always room for improvement, but the 4CW will need more attention.

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

However, that is a very minor datapoint to me unfortunately. That is a full bore race engine. I am looking for longevity data for someone running them at trackdays, daily, etc in the 400WHP range reliably. Not quite the same

The 4CW crank isn't recommend on most of our builds, the FCW crank is stronger and has been proven in many of our builds. The 4CW also has deflection issues.

[s13silvia123]

What about those who are running P12 cams without valve reliefs. are you guys clearing when properly clayed.

[s13silvia123]

SR20VE Cam Profile

[s13silvia123]

What are yo guys using for aftermarket upgrades for Fuel Rail as in brand names for the P12?
Also anyone having P12 VVL solenoid Clearance issue being at the firewall for the s13. I know the P11 VVL clearance issue and S14 but what about on the S13??

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

What are yo guys using for aftermarket upgrades for Fuel Rail as in brand names for the P12?
Also anyone having P12 VVL solenoid Clearance issue being at the firewall for the s13. I know the P11 VVL clearance issue and S14 but what about on the S13??

1) Autotech, G-SPec, JMR, PLM, Custom Steel (not sure if they are still producing), Taarks (may not be able to buy with the manifold), and Maxworz (same as Taarks in terms of purchasing) are all folks that make top feed rails. Prices range from ~130 to ~200

2) P12 clearance will be an issue with the S13 depending on what mounts are used.

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

1) Autotech, G-SPec, JMR, PLM, Custom Steel (not sure if they are still producing), Taarks (may not be able to buy with the manifold), and Maxworz (same as Taarks in terms of purchasing) are all folks that make top feed rails. Prices range from ~130 to ~200

2) P12 clearance will be an issue with the S13 depending on what mounts are used.

Our -10AN fuel rail is "universal", you can order it with just the standoffs to weld to your manifold. It would bolt directly to our manifold though.

[RalliartRsX]

Never mind

Found it

[rbs14kouki]

If a 4cw can take 800+whp on a mustang dyno . Do 8.14 on the 1/4 mile and we only refresh the engin at the end of every season that says it all .

Every 3 or 4 event we take the oil pan of to check the bearings for safety mesure . But we are not rebuilding the engin

For a dayli 400whp i would run a 4cw anyday

[jr_ss]

For what ever reason I cannot locate the shims used for the VE in this thread. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but they are suppose to be Vrod shims at 10mm?

[Yellow4g63]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

For what ever reason I cannot locate the shims used for the VE in this thread. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but they are suppose to be Vrod shims at 10mm?

Hot Cams 10.00mm Valve Shim Refill Package 1.85mm to 3.25mm HCSHIM31*

I have also used the Vrod shims because I had a dealer near me that I could just pick the ones I need.

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Hot Cams 10.00mm Valve Shim Refill Package 1.85mm to 3.25mm HCSHIM31*

I have also used the Vrod shims because I had a dealer near me that I could just pick the ones I need.

spot on ... hot cams or any 10mm diameter shim kit will do .... i use 1 or 2 vrods because i didnt had enought of one size in my kit (only 3 of each size)

[jared420sx]

http://www.rhdjapan.com/flatwell-int...o-vvl-rwd.html
😭😭😭

Anyone ever succesfully use a oem ve intake on a rwd setup?
Is anything more involved than cutting it and flipping it and welding it back?
Or s14 intake with ve flange welded on? I like the oem look any help appreciated alot!

[brndck]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

For what ever reason I cannot locate the shims used for the VE in this thread. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but they are suppose to be Vrod shims at 10mm?

yes, but i'm told there is a husqvarna or ktm part number thats the same thing and also cheaper

Originally Posted by jared420sx

http://www.rhdjapan.com/flatwell-int...o-vvl-rwd.html
������
Anyone ever succesfully use a oem ve intake on a rwd setup?
Is anything more involved than cutting it and flipping it and welding it back?
Or s14 intake with ve flange welded on? I like the oem look any help appreciated alot!

theres a whole thread with info about this, lemme see if i can find it. some dude here on zilvia did that exact thing


heres the post
http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=5804065&postcount=24

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...65#post5804065

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

http://www.rhdjapan.com/flatwell-int...o-vvl-rwd.html
😭😭😭

Anyone ever succesfully use a oem ve intake on a rwd setup?
Is anything more involved than cutting it and flipping it and welding it back?
Or s14 intake with ve flange welded on? I like the oem look any help appreciated alot!

that intake is like the Tonnka inlet manifold ... he must make them for that companie or he rebadge his to is companies name


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tonnka-CN...-/262315802073

[speedingmofa]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

Anyone ever succesfully use a oem ve intake on a rwd setup?
Is anything more involved than cutting it and flipping it and welding it back?
Or s14 intake with ve flange welded on? I like the oem look any help appreciated alot!

Awhile ago, i was actually looking at modifying the stock sr20ve manifold for use on a rwd. I'm not sure how others went about it, but if i take a close look at cutting and flipping the manifold, it seems the runners would never match up? No matter if i decide to cut it at the lower or upper (runners would be miles out) runners. So I'm really curious how others have done this too.
The only example i've seen is in this picture, but let's be honest.. u can't see s**t here:


So now I've bought an s14 stock intake which i could chop up and weld it to an sr20ve flange much like this:


Or maybe chop off all the way up to the fuel rail and weld on an sr20ve piece on there.

That was until my buddy offered to build me an intake which i can directly mount to the sr20ve lower runner which would be awesome of course so i couldn't turn him down on that
But who knows, if I ever decide to go the s14-chop/weld route, i'll let yall know