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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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11-18-2011, 08:43 PM | #32 | |
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11-18-2011, 09:39 PM | #33 | |
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11-18-2011, 09:40 PM | #34 |
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cody ace is a cool dude with top performance in mind
id like to give my .02 on this subject too! ive driven a range of s chassis with different alignment settings (everyone should setup their car to how they like it) and i have always preferred the cars with more front camber. usually in the 4 to 7 range. they just feel more planted to me. i think sometimes people get jumbled and caught up on all the technical aspects of suspension angles jazzy jazz stuff. ive never understood any of it, i just go off of how it feels. a lot of dudes in FD are running lots of front camber. my friend walker is running -7 on his and he said it was the best for him, out of all the settings he has tried. also nikolay was a newcomer to the -7 range this year, he said it felt like the car had too much front grip and he wasnt sure if he liked it. im not sure what he has decided for next season, but maybe he will go back to conservative. i dont think there is a right and wrong way to align your car, its all how YOU want it to feel
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11-18-2011, 10:05 PM | #35 |
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11-19-2011, 12:46 AM | #38 |
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There are easier ways to do this. Drill another hole in the lower coil over mount. Slot the upper shock mount. Save up and get PSM FLCAs?
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11-19-2011, 08:36 AM | #39 | |
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And you extend outside of the tension rod, so there's no need for those not-so-special 326 rods.
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11-19-2011, 09:26 AM | #40 | |
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This /\/\ I'm not understanding why the tension rods need to be offset at all if the mounting point on the control arm isn't being changed? Why not make offset sway bar end links too??? Maybe I'm missing something but it doesn't make sense to me. |
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11-19-2011, 09:47 AM | #41 |
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You wouldn't need those tension rods if you are modding OEM LCAs, but if you have adjustable LCAs and are making the adjustments from the inside mounting point it would tweak the tension rod mounting location.
Also, I think Tearlessj is talking about slotting the strut tower so you can get more camber adjustment before hitting it.
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11-19-2011, 10:49 AM | #42 | |
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Edit: In that same respect though, there is a still a correct 'base' as to where to start from IMO, with minor changes being more suited to the driver/car/track/tire I guess my thing with the Camber, is that while you/others have it setup that way and it may feel good, it seems that the only reason it feels good is due to the manipulation of the suspension to 'sorta kinda' work at speed (if that makes any sense). Sure running a ton of static camber may work out for some grip while sliding and it leans over, I do think that less camber would need to be ran if the caster issue was addressed and setup (as in the end the caster curve persay has a bigger change on it all). Either way, just neat discussing the stuff as in the end (as I've said) it's always cool to see what works for everyone to form the better opinion on it all. Just like the old heads say, a pie can be baked in the best oven, but it will only be as good as it's ingredients
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11-19-2011, 03:52 PM | #43 | |
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01-11-2013, 11:20 PM | #44 |
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Nobody has mentioned that extended LCAs are required with big steering angle to gain clearance between the wheel and frame rail (inner fender) at full lock.
How much are people extending by? I have seen 25-30mm, and will likely be going 30mm on my S13 arms. S14 LCAs are 10mm longer than S13, correct? |
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