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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-30-2009, 05:50 PM | #31 | |
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Dyno'd on a Dynapack 4000. |
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12-30-2009, 05:56 PM | #33 |
12-30-2009, 06:02 PM | #34 | |
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best bet is to just invest in a good low-profile jack. Well worth the money compared to screwing around with extra steps like ramps, etc.
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12-30-2009, 06:28 PM | #36 |
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I don't know what you're implying but from experience directly from the owner of the dynos. We have dyno'd on the Dynapacks and driven to a Dynojet and made 7 more WHP with his test car on the same day within a few hours from another. For what it's worth it was a ~3% difference.
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12-30-2009, 07:05 PM | #37 |
12-30-2009, 08:01 PM | #39 |
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cool thread,
when setting the fuel pressure on my SR i take the vac line off, set to 43, put vac line on and it about 35. is that correct?
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12-30-2009, 08:12 PM | #40 | |
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12-30-2009, 08:12 PM | #41 |
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another quick 'stupid' question:
i just picked up a 96 ka transmission to replacemy extremely worn-out one. the one i picked up has the CAS on the bell housing. i can remove it(not use it) since im mating the transmission to a SOHC, right? |
12-30-2009, 10:08 PM | #43 | |
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btw thanks to those who replied to my question..i guess its not a big difference which one you choose then huh? i don't wanna be super quiet but i also don't wanna be loud as hell like a harley lol |
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12-31-2009, 12:36 AM | #44 |
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Hello gentlemen.
i am in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my car at the moment, its a long process but i have to leave my car outside. Its also going to be a few months before it gets painted. So here is my question, what paint can i get (in a can) that will protect my car from rust? I need something that will not chemically react with the actual paint that will be applied later. I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true? Thanks! all info is greatly appreciated! |
12-31-2009, 12:51 AM | #46 |
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which rustoleum products?
it appears they have epoxy, lacquer acrylic, enamel, water based paints... they also offer an automotive primer, would this protect against moisture? |
12-31-2009, 01:17 AM | #47 |
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A few years ago when I took off the factory spoiler and filled the holes I sanded the trunk to bare metal and spraypainted it with Rust-Oleum. My roof is also painted with it. Just this regular kind:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24 It's just one coat, with no clear or anything, and it's been through rain and snow pleny of times since, with no problems. I use it on everything, because I have rust-phobia when it comes to my car. They also have a 'Professional' 'High Performance' line, with most of the colors: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95 Recently I found out that the nearby Lowe's carries all of the colors, so I have switched to using the 'High Performance' enamel, which I'm assuming should be even better, although I don't have any complaints about the regular one. I even used it to cover the rust on my rocker panel years ago, and it still hasn't shown through, haha. |
12-31-2009, 01:28 AM | #48 |
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Hello,
I may also be in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my possible future car. Is there a proper method, per say, to remove molded aero? Sand down the filler material until the aero is exposed => Source the method used to secure the aero => Remove? -Yuta P.S. Yuta, thank you for asking a question I was wondering about a few hours ago.
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12-31-2009, 05:58 AM | #49 | |||||
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pro sevens have the optional use for the electronic control by tanabe called TEAS i think so yes that would be why Quote:
you can remove it and i don't believe sohc makes any difference fun fact: ka SOHC maf can be used if sr MAF is not available but once again yes they're different physically but readout is mostly the same Quote:
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but i would recommend putting real automotive primer on before a base coat anyways the primer in a can should protect fine but i the enamel will be better over time Quote:
any attachment (securing method) you should be able to see from under the car |
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12-31-2009, 06:13 AM | #50 | |
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check this archive faq http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/945...m-upgrade.html just remember the pressure raises as boost pressure in the intake manifold raises |
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12-31-2009, 06:14 AM | #51 | |
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12-31-2009, 07:44 AM | #54 |
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is there a way to keep the inner fender guards, while rolling the fender and lowering the car?
i would not really want to remove it, because all the dirt and shit will fly inside my fender/door/engine bay btw: great thread! |
12-31-2009, 07:52 AM | #55 |
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if you roll the fender, the plastic won't be able to clip into the factory holes.
also, if you lower the car until it rubs the plastic guards, there will be absolutely no need to roll your fenders because it won't be very low at all. |
12-31-2009, 10:47 AM | #57 | |
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if your going with a can of primer *epoxy primer or *self etch primer if you have rust already sand it off its best to spray with the gun you will save money. POR-15 POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks good stuff if your to bare metal try to use gloves metal and human oil will cause rust. oh stay away from those rust convertors..
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12-31-2009, 10:52 AM | #58 | |
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Quote:
you got to stretch the metal with body hammers use the fender roller and body filler to smooth it out some durablocks with different shapes will get it like that
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12-31-2009, 11:29 AM | #59 |
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