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Old 04-15-2011, 02:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I did that with my car and my little matco heat gun, but on other cars I'm always so apprehensive, as I never know the actual condition of their shit haha
Yeah, I do most of the fenders down in my area (I just did fenders on a Donk car, LOL), so when people want a pull done I always tell them I recommend getting body work done afterwards. Just because every piece of metal is different on every car...same goes for paint. Pulling fenders on Hondas sucks a whole lot more then doing 240s though, haha.

I pulled the rear fenders on SilentDancer's blue S15 and was crying on the inside the whole time.

You can't see it all that well, but he was getting body work done, so its perfect, hahaha:




I can usually guarantee a smooth pull on a S13/S14 up to about a 1/2 inch.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:46 PM   #32
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^^ omfg that car is perfect!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 04:44 PM   #33
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^^ omfg that car is perfect!!
Yeah seriously..You do good work.
Too bad we dont have that local to me, id pay just to be assured they wouldnt be fubar.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:58 PM   #34
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so i just finished UNROLLING the fender and cut off the lip. the rear fenders are now kinda like overs. the fender comes down from the window without the lip that gets rolled in. if that makes any sense. they are sharp lol. i carefully filed them and masked them off to spray the raw edge to prevent rust.


i also cut out my rear inner fender metal. almost knoop-spec. although im not trying to pull my fenders as much, i did this because i was grinding the shit out of my WHEEL on the inner fender. like metal to metal grinding and it fucked up my other wheels. my problem is solved now, just have to find a way to seal it up.

dont think im gonna be able to weld onto the back side of the painted fender so im stumped. dont wanna burn the paint. any suggestions? ill try to get pics up when there's light out.

oh yea, went and did some donuts and smoke in cabin is a huge issue.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:33 AM   #35
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oh yea, went and did some donuts and smoke in cabin is a huge issue.
Not only that, but being that we get salt/dust/dirt grime on the road, I'd be concerned over getting rust starting up in there, and causing havoc as it's non coated metal
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:39 AM   #36
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Yeah, I do most of the fenders down in my area (I just did fenders on a Donk car, LOL), so when people want a pull done I always tell them I recommend getting body work done afterwards. Just because every piece of metal is different on every car...same goes for paint. Pulling fenders on Hondas sucks a whole lot more then doing 240s though, haha.
Haha funny you mention Honda's as I had a friend with a TSX who wanted them rolled, and it had a super odd squared off part, and a super rigid inner plastic liner that (and i'm sure it's possible but I couldn't sort it out) that wouldn't come out. Needless to say I declinded that job, and let them rent the tool. They ended up just cutting the fenders and banging them up.

Early VW's in the front suck pretty good too with that dual metal liner in them...totally a MFER.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:56 AM   #37
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Yeah, there are literally 26 bolts/clips holding the TSX front fender liners on. I use a razor blade and cut out a semicircle of the splash guard so I can roll the front fenders (on any car that still has them).

Although, I don't use a roller on front fenders because they're super flimsy on most Japanese cars. I use a body hammer that doesn't take paint off and the 'fender finisher' tool. They come out way nicer looking, it just takes a little more time.


I should finally be able to get my freaking metal welded back in the rear of my car tonight!


Marcus, you could fiberglass the area closed, but it may require some tending to over time. OR you could tack weld the metal to the inside part of your fender and use seam sealer and great stuff to stick it to the outside part and seal up the cabin.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:22 AM   #38
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:05 PM   #39
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95KA-T could you post a link or recommend a place to buy the body hammer and 'fender finisher' tools you use
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:03 PM   #40
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Harbor freight has body hammer kits n stuff. Its the skills that you're gonna need lol
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:57 PM   #41
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UUggghhhhh, just finished getting all of the metal back in....it sucked, haha.

You might as well use sheet metal...but the trailer fender was just enough material to do the job. I had to hack it up into pieces though.

I'll post pictures in a min, I need to clean the metal shavings off of me.



In the mean time. Look for a body hammer like the one second from the left with the different colored tips:




And Eastwood makes the Fender Finisher tool, so you can buy that through their website.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:23 PM   #42
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Here are the shitty shots:













I need to spray a bunch of 'great stuff' in the inner fender wells, and I am going to use some seam sealer on the inside of the wheel well, and paint them with some rust prevention shit.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:45 PM   #43
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Looks awesome !
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:57 PM   #44
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Closest thing I found is this. But I'm pretty sure its a wide body.

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Old 04-18-2011, 11:07 PM   #45
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Over-pulled fenders is a recipe for future regret.
I agree with this, because I regret doing mine....
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:13 PM   #46
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i wish i pulled mine more before i painted it and now i cant cause there bondo on the rear quaters making the body line right =(
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Old 04-18-2011, 11:27 PM   #47
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Ripped this photo out of Om1krons thread:



His metal work is much better then mine....but he has a much much less risk of bashing the rear of his car into a cement barrier, hahahaha.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:10 PM   #48
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Ummmm I would try to find this guy:



MidwestMyriad posted him in the wheel whore thread but I don't think it's his.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:26 PM   #49
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Same car, no not mine, found here: Wide tires/wheels - Northwest Nissans


And another
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:32 PM   #50
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The best:



and im sure someone will post yuta's s13 pre-overfenders.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:37 PM   #51
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im sorry but that s13 looks dumb as dump lol ^^ should of just went widebody
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:24 PM   #52
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Over-pulled fenders is a recipe for future regret.
                   
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:33 PM   #53
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Closest thing I found is this. But I'm pretty sure its a wide body.
those rear fenders were radiused (or whatever) which isn't what OBjuan wants to do
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:58 PM   #54
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Knoop is the master of fender pulling / rolling on the East Coast.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:33 PM   #55
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Ripped this photo out of Om1krons thread:



His metal work is much better then mine....but he has a much much less risk of bashing the rear of his car into a cement barrier, hahahaha.
Not to be rude, but how is this kind of work still called fitting under the stock sheet metal?
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:41 PM   #56
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Not to be rude, but how is this kind of work still called fitting under the stock sheet metal?
well it is still behind the stock outer skin.. that just closes the gap between the fender and the stock inner fender.. or the distance that its apart since its been pulled...
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:03 PM   #57
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those rear fenders were radiused (or whatever) which isn't what OBjuan wants to do
Those fenders aren't radiused. Radiused fenders are where the entire fender line is actually moved up on the car like this:



Notice how the top of the fender is almost level with the door handle, that's probably 3 or 4 inches higher than it is stock. That SC looks like it had a widebody constructed using the stock fenders which are then blended using more metal much like this guy did:



Link: http://g35driver.com/forums/picture-...wide-body.html

Either that, or they are just well-molded overs.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:16 AM   #58
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Ummmm I would try to find this guy:



MidwestMyriad posted him in the wheel whore thread but I don't think it's his.
That car used to belong to Phil Morrison team driftworks here in the UK.
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Old 04-24-2011, 11:12 AM   #59
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:56 PM   #60
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