Some help with my ka-t - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

YoungRookie · 06-28-2007, 01:38 PM

N1smor- If he was trying to help me then he could have only mentioned the dvd he made, and left out all the other stuff he said. Everything he said minus about the dvd was in no way helping me out.

There is no way that i can have a 6" straight peice of pipe after the mafs because there is a bend right as it goes into the throttle body. The car ran fine before with the mafs at that location so i dont think that is a problem. I just want the car to go back to the way it use to ran. No i have not reset the timing. Iv read that i should retard the timing about 2-3 degress from stock.

bo2o · 07-09-2007, 04:49 PM

you dont have to neg rep me for my 2 cents..

what a meanie...

i was just trying to help.

also have you tried using a stock ecu?

ploie · 07-09-2007, 10:39 PM

did you check your injector o-rings to see if they are not torn
you have to be really careful when putting injectors into the fuel rail

YoungRookie · 07-10-2007, 01:49 AM

Hey man i didnt give you negative rep points, and if i did i definitly did not mean to

donkayroo · 07-13-2007, 02:27 AM

Rookie rookie rookie,
How many miles do you have on your boosted KA?

Have you done a compression test on your KA prior to dropping in the turbo?

How long/many miles have you put on your KA since the turbo install?

How hard have you ran the motor since turbo'd?

How long do you hope your boosted KA will last?

As another member suggested, checking the trouble codes is super duper important. That should be the first thing you do when it suddenly starts running like kaka. Consider the health of your engine. A basic rule of thumb for all tuners/mechanics...troubleshoot, diagnostic trouble codes, troubleshoot.

You don't need the N60 at this stage of your turbo action. It's only a matter of time before your rings can't handle the continued boost if your motor wasn't healthy in compression to begin with. Use the stock MAF...your only boosting 7psi. What fuel pump are you running again...stock?

This is the setup I ran surprisingly reliably for 2 1/2 years:

• Top mount T04B
• External Turbonetics wastegate w/7psi spring
• Front mount
• 2.25'' hot/cold pipes
• Bosch recirc
• 3'' turbo back
• FMU
• Stock ECU
• Stock MAF
• Stock injectors
• Stock fuel pump
• Stock plugs
• Retarded timing 5 degrees

I was trying to blow my motor but didn't... I'm sure you don't.

I'm running a new setup now but even the above mentioned sketchy setup put me side by side with SR's with full bolt-ons @ 12psi. I easily pulled from stock SR swaps like they were N.A. KA's. On the track, there was more than enough torque to bust 285/30/18's loose even with heavy ass Advan gen 2 wheels through the corners...also chirping 3rd and at times 4th in a straight line. All on a healthy bone stock KA24DE with 179 - 180 compression.

If this is the fun you want don't go beyond 7psi, get all the basics for reliability, use the stock MAF until you drop in a built motor, use the stock MAF until you can reliably crank up the boost, troubleshoot your motor to insure it's mechanically sound, don't drive your car until you find baseline AFC settings for your current setup.

Now, if you insist on using your current setup go to KA-T.org and contact member REDSS.

His settings are matched closest to your setup. Good luck!

z32 MAF
370cc injectors
walbro 255lph fuel pump
91 ka24de ecu
apexi SAFC
apexi AVC-R
apexi turbo timer
MSD 6BTM
MSD blaster coil
Split second EGO signal conditioner
ssautochrome bottom mount manifold
Garrett T25 from a red top sr20det
hks style turbo outlet
hks SSQV BOV
3 in SR downpipe, 3 in SR resonator test pipe, 3 in s13 catback exhaust
21x9x3 FMIC
2 1/2" piping
airinx type air cleaner

MAF type = Hotwire
Setting = 2in and 5out
# Of cylinder and throttle signal type, 4 and up arrow to the right

boost on average @ 7 to 8 psi with an occasional spike up to 11 psi.

lo throttle point 20%
hi throttle point 40% (fast spooling turbo)

low map -24 across
high map +20 to 21 across

on the innovate wideband, AF is steady at low 12 to mid 11 and high 10.

Irukandji · 06-28-2007, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bo2o

you need fpr. maybe a tune for ur injectors and maf

put ur maf closer to ur filter.

with ur setup ur better running sidemount.

You don't need an FPR with 370cc's.

06-28-2007, 01:38 PM	#1
YoungRookie Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Geencastle, PA Age: 36 Posts: 1,068 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	N1smor- If he was trying to help me then he could have only mentioned the dvd he made, and left out all the other stuff he said. Everything he said minus about the dvd was in no way helping me out. There is no way that i can have a 6" straight peice of pipe after the mafs because there is a bend right as it goes into the throttle body. The car ran fine before with the mafs at that location so i dont think that is a problem. I just want the car to go back to the way it use to ran. No i have not reset the timing. Iv read that i should retard the timing about 2-3 degress from stock. __________________ 92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more...

07-09-2007, 04:49 PM	#2
bo2o Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2006 Location: 626 socal! Posts: 1,315 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	you dont have to neg rep me for my 2 cents.. what a meanie... i was just trying to help. also have you tried using a stock ecu? __________________ fS! *vlsd ! slim fans ! hid kits ! lug nuts !* http://www.zilvia.net/f/search.php?d...earchuser=bo2o ^^^click^^^

07-10-2007, 01:49 AM	#4
YoungRookie Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Geencastle, PA Age: 36 Posts: 1,068 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Hey man i didnt give you negative rep points, and if i did i definitly did not mean to __________________ 92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more...

07-09-2007, 10:39 PM	#3
ploie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: utah Posts: 8 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	did you check your injector o-rings to see if they are not torn you have to be really careful when putting injectors into the fuel rail

07-13-2007, 02:27 AM	#5
donkayroo Zilvia Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: SoCAL Posts: 222 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Rookie rookie rookie, How many miles do you have on your boosted KA? Have you done a compression test on your KA prior to dropping in the turbo? How long/many miles have you put on your KA since the turbo install? How hard have you ran the motor since turbo'd? How long do you hope your boosted KA will last? As another member suggested, checking the trouble codes is super duper important. That should be the first thing you do when it suddenly starts running like kaka. Consider the health of your engine. A basic rule of thumb for all tuners/mechanics...troubleshoot, diagnostic trouble codes, troubleshoot. You don't need the N60 at this stage of your turbo action. It's only a matter of time before your rings can't handle the continued boost if your motor wasn't healthy in compression to begin with. Use the stock MAF...your only boosting 7psi. What fuel pump are you running again...stock? This is the setup I ran surprisingly reliably for 2 1/2 years: • Top mount T04B • External Turbonetics wastegate w/7psi spring • Front mount • 2.25'' hot/cold pipes • Bosch recirc • 3'' turbo back • FMU • Stock ECU • Stock MAF • Stock injectors • Stock fuel pump • Stock plugs • Retarded timing 5 degrees I was trying to blow my motor but didn't... I'm sure you don't. I'm running a new setup now but even the above mentioned sketchy setup put me side by side with SR's with full bolt-ons @ 12psi. I easily pulled from stock SR swaps like they were N.A. KA's. On the track, there was more than enough torque to bust 285/30/18's loose even with heavy ass Advan gen 2 wheels through the corners...also chirping 3rd and at times 4th in a straight line. All on a healthy bone stock KA24DE with 179 - 180 compression. If this is the fun you want don't go beyond 7psi, get all the basics for reliability, use the stock MAF until you drop in a built motor, use the stock MAF until you can reliably crank up the boost, troubleshoot your motor to insure it's mechanically sound, don't drive your car until you find baseline AFC settings for your current setup. Now, if you insist on using your current setup go to KA-T.org and contact member REDSS. His settings are matched closest to your setup. Good luck! z32 MAF 370cc injectors walbro 255lph fuel pump 91 ka24de ecu apexi SAFC apexi AVC-R apexi turbo timer MSD 6BTM MSD blaster coil Split second EGO signal conditioner ssautochrome bottom mount manifold Garrett T25 from a red top sr20det hks style turbo outlet hks SSQV BOV 3 in SR downpipe, 3 in SR resonator test pipe, 3 in s13 catback exhaust 21x9x3 FMIC 2 1/2" piping airinx type air cleaner MAF type = Hotwire Setting = 2in and 5out # Of cylinder and throttle signal type, 4 and up arrow to the right boost on average @ 7 to 8 psi with an occasional spike up to 11 psi. lo throttle point 20% hi throttle point 40% (fast spooling turbo) low map -24 across high map +20 to 21 across on the innovate wideband, AF is steady at low 12 to mid 11 and high 10.