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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 12-10-2007, 11:03 PM   #31
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well
cedric is getting push button start....becuase im bored
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:59 AM   #32
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Wow dude nice write up! Very detailed.

Giving you + rep for that, keep up the great work.


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Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
Equipment needed:

* 30A or higher 12V momentary switch
* 12gauge or thicker wiring
* 30A or higher 12V relay with 87a terminal
* other equipment necessary to connect wires

*snipped the pix*

The stock ignition switch works as shown in the chart. Constant power is delivered to the ignition switch via the White wire. When the key is turned to the first position, power is delivered to the accessories. When the key is turned to the second position, power is delivered to the ignition system. When the key is turned to start, power to the accessories is temporarily cut, and power is diverted to the two wires for the starter and the ECU.


*snipped the pix*

I recommend removing pins 4 and 5 from the harness. By doing this, you will no longer be able to start the car with the ignition switch. It is not necessary to remove these pins but I cannot guarantee reliability of the ignition switch because you have current flowing backward through the ignition switch. If you happen to press the push button and turn the key to start at the same time, I cannot predict what will happen.

As such, pins 4 and 5 can be cut and the portion coming from the harness should be insulated and tucked away. See below for how to wire the portion going to the components.

I also prefer to cut the Blue accessories and use a relay to turn off accessories power when the push button is pressed. This step is also not necessary. If you elect not to do this, make absolutely sure you turn off all your accessories before attempting to start the car. A weak battery may not have enough cold cranking amps to start the motor and power the accessories at the same time.

The Black/Red Stripe ignition wire will be tapped as well.


*snipped the pix*

Here you can see the circuit with pins 4 and 5 removed, as well as the open in the Blue wire and the tap in the Black/Red Stripe.


*snipped the pix*

This is pretty simple and self-explanatory. You don't need a fuse or a relay if the push button is rated for at least 30A or higher.


I recommend http://www.longacreracing.com/ for push buttons as well as complete switch panels.
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:00 AM   #33
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remote start is so much cooler than push button
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:05 AM   #34
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remote start is so much cooler than push button
lol, figuring out how to retain your remote start with a push button start is cooler then just remote start.


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Old 12-11-2007, 10:01 AM   #35
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Thanks for the praise.

To the OP, if you want light for the push button, a slick way is to tap the illumination circuit if the light is a small LED bulb. That way, your ignition will come on and off with the rest of the instrument cluster when you turn the lights on.

If you hook the light bulb to the ignition wire the push button will be lighted all the time.

If you have a big ass light bulb then obviously what I said won't apply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by projekt_s13 View Post
lol, figuring out how to retain your remote start with a push button start is cooler then just remote start.


There's no reason why you can't do both. Just treat the push button as part of the ignition switch. You have constant power going in, accessories, ignition, starter, and ECU power going out.

Tap the appropriate wire for your remote starter and you're good to go.

You can even eliminate the ignition switch completely with a Long Acre Race switch panel. It's pretty simple.
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:21 PM   #36
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that looks great I'll try it out when i get some more time Thanks a lot for the help I really appreciate it
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:27 PM   #37
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To put this issue to rest, if you have a momentary switch that cannot handle at least 30A, you'll need to put a fuse in front of the switch and use a relay to pull the 30A load.

Hook the output of the button to a standard 12V 30A relay with an 87 pin.

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Old 02-24-2008, 02:00 PM   #38
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i'm trying to install the engine start with s2000 start button.....do i need to use fuse before the switch and 2 relays? or i can just use one relay and no fuse before button like the last diagram you had in page one....

thanks....
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:25 PM   #39
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Again, verify with the manufacturer to see if the button can handle at least 30A. In this case you can check with the FSM to see if the buton has a fuse on it. If the fuse is less than 30A, use the same rated fuse. If the fuse is 30A or higher, you don't need a fuse. When in doubt, use a fuse and relays like pictured above.

Come on. I thought this stuff was laid out pretty thoroughly. All you have to do is read and go by it. It's not rocket science.

If you still can't figure it out then don't do it???!!!!!!! It's not something that's absolutely necessary like fixing brakes or getting your daily back on the road. For these issues I would have more sympathy.

There is absolutely no reason why anyone couldn't get it done by following simple directions. I thought I had broken it down pretty much for any brain dead person. If you feel my writeup is deficient then tell me why.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:07 PM   #40
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Yea i know its an old ass thread but Its the only one i found with a diagram my question to the diagram above is where do i add the switches ?
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:11 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elnino335 View Post
Yea i know its an old ass thread but Its the only one i found with a diagram my question to the diagram above is where do i add the switches ?
Wherever you want. Most switches are somewhere in the 5 to 10 amp range, so you will want the switches controlling relays. I made this diagram up for those attempting to create a harness from scratch. Hopefully it helps

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Old 11-09-2013, 09:38 AM   #42
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Thanks Oni jake for the reply and diagram now i understand the diagram but will it work with an s13 chassis ?
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:43 AM   #43
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Holy old thread. lmfao best rival ever. Should work on S13 chassis no prob
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Quote:
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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:14 PM   #44
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Well, you know, props to him searching.

This diagram will work for basically anything, as that is the bare minimum to get a car running and into a competition, NOT STREET LEGAL. The only difference you would have comparing that diagram to another chassis and motor is the amount of ECU fuses and harness connecters (lets say, an extra bumper light or another gauge/sensor). This diagram doesn't break down the ECU harness either, but all of the information needed can be gathered from your motor's FSM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:24 PM   #45
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Ok i drew this up...

How i drew it in my head it should work theoretically speaking, can you guys give me some input i printed out the wiring diagram for the starting system and ignition system

Need some input if i drew this correctly or not

Thanks

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Old 11-12-2013, 04:22 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oni jake View Post
Well, you know, props to him searching.

This diagram will work for basically anything, as that is the bare minimum to get a car running and into a competition, NOT STREET LEGAL. The only difference you would have comparing that diagram to another chassis and motor is the amount of ECU fuses and harness connecters (lets say, an extra bumper light or another gauge/sensor). This diagram doesn't break down the ECU harness either, but all of the information needed can be gathered from your motor's FSM.
What do you mean, not street legal.... where are you, that they care if you change your ignition switch?

As long as it was sold new with the anti-theft devices mandated at the time, it doesn't really matter what condition they're in, so long as you don't sell something that doesn't work, as working.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:15 AM   #47
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I can't read your hand writing to make out what you are wiring in Elnino. Also, why are two relays connected together twice? How does power to get to the switch in the first place? I can tell you that pin 5 is in fact your starter signal switch.

Quote:
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What do you mean, not street legal.... where are you, that they care if you change your ignition switch?

As long as it was sold new with the anti-theft devices mandated at the time, it doesn't really matter what condition they're in, so long as you don't sell something that doesn't work, as working.
It's not street legal as in there is no wiring to horns, blinkers, etc. I was simply stating the obvious... because this is Zilvia and if I don't say it, someone will and try to discredit the whole thing. I have no idea why you are talking about anti-theft devices.
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Old 11-14-2013, 03:23 PM   #48
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I drew it wrong im missing a relay thanks for the reply i wouldnt of noticed it im going to re draw it more clearly
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