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Old 04-11-2008, 05:25 PM   #31
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just save up a bit more and get the real greddy manifold.!! its so worth it.. trust me on this one unless u love using your dremmel
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:28 PM   #32
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I probably would have ported it anyway, which is why I went with a FReddy.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:42 AM   #33
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Took me more than a hour to do all the grinding/sanding, but I was pretty anal about it and reshaped the TB port - which I think was shaped off the GReddy casting, but it sucked from a flow standpoint(lots of separation right past the TB). I also did an 80 grit finish all the way up the ports and at least a 1" radius into the plenum, and retapped all the holes(they were a little janky, and lots of chips in there).
Wow, I feel better I'm not the only one who was super 'type-a' about stuff like that. Sounds like we ended up doing about the same amount of work the get it nice and useable. I do think though that if you are willing to work with it, it's a pretty good deal.
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:47 PM   #34
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Wow, I feel better I'm not the only one who was super 'type-a' about stuff like that. Sounds like we ended up doing about the same amount of work the get it nice and useable. I do think though that if you are willing to work with it, it's a pretty good deal.
Yea, it took a little work, but I don't think it was unreasonable given the price really. The biggest PITA part was getting the throttle cable bracket perfect, and you have to do that for a GReddy mani too, so I wouldn't hold the poor casting against the FReddy given the price.
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:31 AM   #35
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I ended up just sanding and painting mine, no realy 'fab' work needed, except pretty much everything that goes on the manifold needs to be modified. The coolant lines to the Throttle body and IAC all need to be changed to londer lines, or bypassed all together (Personaly I just bypassed the TB but made longer lines for the IAC). Then there is a fuel rail, its pretty straight forward, but your gunna need some extra fuel hose. I put my grounds on the bracket they sent with the manifold (its a support for the alternator bracket) the Vacuum fittings gave me the most problems. The Brake booster fitting was way to close to all the Brake hardlines as they come down the fire wall, I ended up having to bend them slightly out of the way to get the fitting into the manifold, then getting the hose onto it was a PITA. Im not sure if I did this part right but, That little hose on the top of the valve cover, I ran to the back of the manifold, since its conection point is removed with the stock mani. Lastly was the Throttle cable, thisone took me some time, but I ended up using the stock SR one and modifying it, by flattening it out completely, then bending the tab up at the appropriate place. I also mounted it with only one bolt (!?) so that it would fit properly.

Issues: Only thing I can say so far that has me questioning a good purchase or not has to be the fact that my Vac. went up from 19 to about 15. I thinkthe more air flow might have made the computer pull timing a little or something. Anyone have insight on this?
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:46 PM   #36
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will a bigger intake manifold lower vac? i dont think thats the case. check for vac leaks. hopefully u're manifold is not pourus. but u said you painted yours so it shouldnt be leaking through the manifold?
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Old 04-13-2008, 04:48 PM   #37
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You have a vac leak if your manifold vacuum went down. Mine was still at -20 in-Hg at idle with stock cams, and it's about -14 in-Hg with HKS 264 Step1's, which seems as high as anybody else gets.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:58 AM   #38
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These manifolds suck. Mine had alot of casting that was coming apart in the inside, i had to stick a ball hone in there and clean it up. Had to tap every thread on that piece of junk and it came with 2 fittings when the manifold has 6 holes.. WTF! The throttle body doesnt even properly align. Not worth the money or hassle..
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Old 04-14-2008, 12:52 PM   #39
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These manifolds suck. Mine had alot of casting that was coming apart in the inside, i had to stick a ball hone in there and clean it up. Had to tap every thread on that piece of junk and it came with 2 fittings when the manifold has 6 holes.. WTF! The throttle body doesnt even properly align. Not worth the money or hassle..
Expecting something 1/4 the cost of the "real thing" to have the same build quality is a little ridiculous.

If you aren't resourceful enough to come up with some 1/8" NPT plugs and so some minor porting, then it probably isn't for you.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:10 PM   #40
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unless you flow test it you can't know.

the jun knock offs for the rb25's we've flow tested at the machine shop next door to our shop and they're ok, but i still chose the GReddy. the GReddy flowed better, fit better, and was easier bolt in with more room left over. plus it's a "real" mod instead of a "i got the cheap shit, and i HOPE it's better than stock cause it still wasn't cheap"

if i had another sr20 an intake manifold would probably be one of the last things i got after the gigantor billy bad ass turbo, rocker arm stoppers, stand alone, injectors, maf/map ^_^, z32 tranny.

i'd get an electric water pump before i got an intake manifold for the sr20.... and they do make em

on rb motors it's a different story. the intake manifold design hinders front mount intercooler piping/spool time. plus being right over the valve cover it heat soaks like a summabich. but for an sr....there's not that issue. so i don't see the point.

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Old 04-14-2008, 07:20 PM   #41
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i grinded mine a lot - and used a roloc on the outside then when it was smooth - i painted it black.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:43 PM   #42
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FYI i smoke tested my intake manifold and no leaks, still have yet to figure it out, but it slides like a dream..haha
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