Rear lower ball joint question

[MELLO*SOS]

B13 joint work okay on the track IMO. But next time I do the rears I'll try the B12's out. I'm sure someone out there is putting off doing balljoints due to lack of a press? Go down to your checkers/oreilly/autozone and rent/borrow the balljoint toolkit... Takes only a few minutes to do each ball joint once u have the arms out... Impact wrench makes it go faster...


** FRONT S13 BALL JOINTS **
Just did front ball joints this past weekend, threw s13 bj's into s14 lca. Before I forget, the Moog PN is k9509.
** FRONT S13 BALL JOINTS **

[TheArkitekt]

well, i havent ordered any parts yet, so i think ill give the B12s a shot. It looks like moog P/N 9633 should do the trick, ill confirm that once i get them in.

[TheArkitekt]

quick update, the B12 Moog balljoint works great! Quick and easy install. I think they were $12 each or something. P/N 9633

[handinpants]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

guys, the problem with the B13 sentra ball joint is not only that its 1mm wider, but also that its got a gap between the control arm and the c-clip. I did not like that. If I am going through the trouble of changing something, I would prefer it be an exact fit - meaning, no boring out the hole and not having a gap.

This is the reason I made this post, to let others know that the B12 joints are a direct fit.

edit: aron, what if you have a powdercoated arm and dont feel like boring out the control arm and possibly scratching the nice finish. Thats the point of buying something that is 100% replacement, it should in fact be 100%... not 100% but you gotta do this and this and this. Being the meticulous bastard I am, this is how I build my own products.. so that they are 100% bolt on.

good post man, i am happy to see someone who actually does research and puts it out here, definitely helped me....

Originally Posted by handinpants

good post man, i am happy to see someone who actually does research and puts it out here, definitely helped me....

thank you, steven. thank you very much

[boske]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Mike, we're talking about a suspension arm. It is not even possible to remove a ball joint without uglying up either the knuckle, the arm, or the balljoint boot. You either beat the shit out of the knuckle with a hammer to pop the joint loose or you get a pickle fork and beat up the boot, knuckle, and arm.

seriously? I have to cringe when I see people using pickle forks, especially when they are reusing the ball joints!

[cazman]

Originally Posted by MELLO*SOS

B13 joint work okay on the track IMO. But next time I do the rears I'll try the B12's out. I'm sure someone out there is putting off doing balljoints due to lack of a press? Go down to your checkers/oreilly/autozone and rent/borrow the balljoint toolkit... Takes only a few minutes to do each ball joint once u have the arms out... Impact wrench makes it go faster...


** FRONT S13 BALL JOINTS **
Just did front ball joints this past weekend, threw s13 bj's into s14 lca. Before I forget, the Moog PN is k9509.
** FRONT S13 BALL JOINTS **

S13 and S14 front ball joints are different, the ball joint taper is not the same.
It may look like the S14 one is doing up, but its not seating

[Flicktitty]

i think i might have to pick up the B12 ones. the BJ on the coupe seem to be going out.

thanks.