AFR's driving me nutzzz!!

[Josho]

I replaced the coolant temp sender and now my car is reaching full operating temp. Seems to be running a little better. At idle its still running rich. If I hit the trottle it will still stay around the rich side but as soon as the rpms start to drop down it goes all the way lean the back to rich once idle settles back.

[Kingtal0n]

I would do two things first before anything:

#1: Fill the intercooler plumbing with air by making a "boost leak check device" to verify without doubt that the plumbing is secure.

#2: Plump a mechanical fuel pressure gauge into the fuel rail. let the fuel system prime, then watch the gauge. When the fuel pump shuts off, the gauge should maintain fuel pressure for a while. If you notice it bleeds of quickly, then there is a fuel leak somewhere, probably still an O-ring.

Once you have that sorted- you can investigate situations with the tune, i.e. the maf and it's parabolic voltage, various sensors etc...

[c-los13]

My car was running stupid rich and it was the bov sticking open. do a boost leak tezt and check for any exhaust leaks before the wideband that could cause to read wrong.

[JKTUNING]

Do you have access to a consult cable so you can at least check over all of the sensor data that the ECU is seeing?

Just shooting in the dark like this can be a painful process without seeing any other relevant data on what the car is actually doing.

[Josho]

I sure don't. Will that work with a factory ecu?

[JKTUNING]

Originally Posted by Josho

I sure don't. Will that work with a factory ecu?

Absolutely.

I have the ECUtalk USB consult cables on my site, PM me if this is something you might be interested in.

It will give you access to all of the main engine sensors to see if anything is out of range.

[s14k]

check to make sure your maf is working properly sounds like there is a weak or intermittent signal from your ecu. check to make sure u are recieving voltage to the maf.

[titangts]

I'll throw in my .2c...

what again is your Vac at during idle (ex. -21)...you said in the OP, 6.5??? if so thats DEFF your issue. which is a hardcore boost leak somewhere.

Also, your temp sensor has NOTHING to do with allowing your car to reach full operating temps. All the sensor does is tell the ecu whats going on/move the needle on the cluster. Your cooling system is 100% mechanical (beside and E-fan).. nothing electrical about it.

Boost leak test, boost leak test.

and 100% FOR SURE. if you are running a NISMO AFPR you should always, always always run a fuel gauge with it. the adjustable regulator is completely useless without a gauge. Just like people who install a SAFC without a wide band..

fuel test, boost leak test. next on the list.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by titangts

I'll throw in my .2c...

what again is your Vac at during idle (ex. -21)...you said in the OP, 6.5??? if so thats DEFF your issue. which is a hardcore boost leak somewhere.

Also, your temp sensor has NOTHING to do with allowing your car to reach full operating temps. All the sensor does is tell the ecu whats going on/move the needle on the cluster. Your cooling system is 100% mechanical (beside and E-fan).. nothing electrical about it.

Boost leak test, boost leak test.

and 100% FOR SURE. if you are running a NISMO AFPR you should always, always always run a fuel gauge with it. the adjustable regulator is completely useless without a gauge. Just like people who install a SAFC without a wide band..

fuel test, boost leak test. next on the list.

Please, do not post when you dont know what you are talking about.

The ecu uses a coolant sensor to enrich mixture and pull timing. Come again.

[rps_jrdn]

your 100% sure maf is good?

[matts13vert]

Its your ecu. I had the same issue at the track. Called Enthalpy and they fixed my ecu havent had a problem since.

Does it go lean under moderate to wot?

Not my car or video but the EXACT same symptoms my tune was causing.