My "hanging by a thread" SR swapped S14 Kouki thread (TONS of pics&questions)

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by gabefromcali

Nice. I just got into the same scenario as you but with a zenki. Good luck I'm rooting for ya!

Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too!

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

pressure clean the bay and engine. Cover the igniter, CAS, and all oil ports.
Use some kind of degreaser (purple power or something) and a parts washer brush for the edges/corners. If you intend to paint you will also want to wipe it down with some powerful solvent before painting. Usually there is a "prep wipe" to use while the car is sitting in the paint booth right before you spray it. It sounds like you intend to rattle can it though, so do not overlook this prep step.

BIG RAJAH!

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Also if you intend to run the head without a valve-job (among other maint.) you will at least want to pull the intake and clean (use brake cleaner and paper towels) all the carbon soot coating the ports. There is also something the V8 guys are doing, that is, using crushed walnut shells to clean the valves, if you are interested I can provide some links, it can be done using all harbor freight materials and makes the valves look almost new again.

I opened up the intake manifold and to my surprise, it was oil free I think its just right behind the throttle body. But the exhaust side of the head does look dirty.. New head gasket is and valve cover gasket is going be another big chunk of change my student wallet doesn't want to pay LOL I'm thinking I'll throw in a new intake manifold gasket and call it a day, what do you think?

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

For your oil outlet (to turbo from block) this is a common issue when you have over-used (about 5 tries is all we seem to get) the threads. A long time ago the thing to do was heli-coil it and pray none of the shaving from your drill get into the engine. I hope yours does not come to this.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

If you can manage, use the supplied braided hose banjo bolt in the existing threads if all all possible. Do not over tighten them. Better to have it leak a little bit on startup, then snug it tight, than to OVER-tighten it up-front, and later have to remove it for some reason damaging the threads.

Got it

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

Yes I'm missing that rubber boot, I wonder if the OEM one fits the aftermarket short shifter.. I would be open to getting a totally new shifter assembly but my wallet does this, LOL. On a good note, I believe I found the culprit! The bushing that connects the shaft ball thing to the transmission has a lot of play. I'm gonna try to replace this and see how it goes.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

It does look like your trans is missing bolts. But I feel like this is the least of your worries right now, judging by everything else.

I was missing FOUR!

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

You need all new exhaust gaskets for the turbo re-install. I am not sure when you are planning this, however, to repeat what I mentioned earlier, you will want the OEM locking tabs, OEM manifold gasket, and you will probably want to buy new studs and nuts for the manifold as well. Also, keep in mind the mating surface between manifold/turbo will require a STRONG SIGNIFICANT cleaning, it took me almost an hour with a wire wheel (a big, high speed industrial wheel) to slowly work the carbon buildup off the surface. You would be surprised how much is there, and how it can look like metal but is in fact a carbon sheet.

Thanks for the tips, will do for sure! And yes, I already got all OEM new exhaust side gaskets and I'm about to order all new nuts, studs and bolts for exhaust side stuff and transmission.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Annnd.. that oil return line needs to go. Thats what we call in the business an engine death hose. You want a high quality braided piece of hose for the oil return duty.

Got it! Kingtal0n, thanks so much for taking the time to help me. It is extremely helpful and also helps me unmeasurably condense my reading time.

And thanks to others for the words of encouragment. It really does help when taking on something like this LOL

And on to the transmission! Hows it look?



Looks like hot spots?

[S14kouki805]

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

This explains that damn smell!!! I though it was coming through the firewall!

Regarding the stereo wiring those wires from Boston Acoustics are for a set of component mid-high range speakers. They are crossovers, I would yank all that shit out and wire in a new set since you don't seem to have the Bostons present.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

This explains that damn smell!!! I though it was coming through the firewall!

Regarding the stereo wiring those wires from Boston Acoustics are for a set of component mid-high range speakers. They are crossovers, I would yank all that shit out and wire in a new set since you don't seem to have the Bostons present.

Haha cool, I'm sure others who have read this thread and got good info out of it. Are you saying I can't make the stuff thats there work? Is it worth any money?

Some more parts came!

Made a mistake though.. Accidentally got a s13 MAF instead of the s14



Bent up and diiiirty..





Straightened with the back end of a butter knife and cleaned with 409 More cleaning coming



Big thanks to FRSPORT!



GOTTA HAVE IT FOR ME COFFEEEEEZ

[S14DB]

You are going to need a new clutch kit and resurface the flywheel.

[SilviaHI]

I did not want to hear that :/

[turbo11]

I'm in a similar scenario although not as bad. Good to see you have the effort to fix it.

[TurboTiger]

I wish you the best of luck. I'm sure others will agree with me but you have a long road ahead of you. Regardless... I'm glad to see you're willing to bring this car back to life. So many hack jobs in the 240 world.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by turbo11

I'm in a similar scenario although not as bad. Good to see you have the effort to fix it.

Thanks man. Start a thread so we can support each other as our wallets, I'm lucky that i'm only taking two classes so time I have, money... not so much lol

Originally Posted by TurboTiger

I wish you the best of luck. I'm sure others will agree with me but you have a long road ahead of you. Regardless... I'm glad to see you're willing to bring this car back to life. So many hack jobs in the 240 world.

I was actually hoping I would get it up and running by tomorrow, the last day of autocross for the next couple months

[TurboTiger]

Originally Posted by SilviaHI

Thanks man. Start a thread so we can support each other as our wallets, I'm lucky that i'm only taking two classes so time I have, money... not so much lol



I was actually hoping I would get it up and running by tomorrow, the last day of autocross for the next couple months

I'd make sure everything checks out before you do something like an autocross event. This should give you plenty of time to have everything sorted out for the beginning of the next season.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by TurboTiger

I'd make sure everything checks out before you do something like an autocross event. This should give you plenty of time to have everything sorted out for the beginning of the next season.

That's the plan

Here's a lil clip from todays autocross.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sred...34017709556914

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sred...34017709556914

[Crazyced]

Keep the work and pictures going. I'm also (very slowly) going through a restoration myself and this is inspiring.

[S14kouki805]

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

[TurboTiger]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

Why do you need a system in that car? Doesn't it already have an SR with an aftermarket exhaust?

[Kingtal0n]

A simple radio with some normal size lightweight speakers isnt going to hurt anything. If you decide to run OEM exhaust you need something to listen to anyways.
I run the OEM exhaust, with a cut-out, that way I can hear the engine when I need/want.

Miles of unwanted cable, however, is unwanted. Every penny, toy, wire, nut, chewing gum that you find under your carpet and in the corners of the trunk you find is some 0.XXXX% of fuel economy and horsepower waiting to be unleashed.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Keep the work and pictures going. I'm also (very slowly) going through a restoration myself and this is inspiring.

Haha yeah maybe I inspire to get in over your head LOL

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

I'd throw the crossovers on Craigslist, just get a 4 channel amp and some decent 6.5inch speakers all the way around if you MUST have a system. I wouldn't even waste money on a system until the car is running though.

You can always do a system later, get that bitch on the road first!

Originally Posted by TurboTiger

Why do you need a system in that car? Doesn't it already have an SR with an aftermarket exhaust?

EXACTLY

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

A simple radio with some normal size lightweight speakers isnt going to hurt anything. If you decide to run OEM exhaust you need something to listen to anyways.
I run the OEM exhaust, with a cut-out, that way I can hear the engine when I need/want.

Miles of unwanted cable, however, is unwanted. Every penny, toy, wire, nut, chewing gum that you find under your carpet and in the corners of the trunk you find is some 0.XXXX% of fuel economy and horsepower waiting to be unleashed.

I'm running a straight pipe LOL, and yeah, weight reduction is weight reduction My last car was a 01 Miata w/6 speed, lsd, coilovers & 8lb flywheel

So heres where I'm at.. I can't figure out how to remove that lower oil pan, am I missing something besides the bolts? my plan is to measure my bearing clearances



Is this supposed to be sealed?


Then I see this... My oil filter was still on when I flipped it but does this leak mean anything?





I got my oem exhaust manifold

[SilviaHI]

Finally! Wide band and oem water pump but no water pump gasket



More parts coming

[gabefromcali]

[QUOTE=SilviaHI;5940487]Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too!

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this.

[Crazyced]

Is that valve open (it looks open)? Oil is making it passed the rings. I never tested but I don't think it's that unusual if it has been sitting like that for a while. Rings do have gaps.

If the valve is closed then it's an issue.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by gabefromcali

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this.

Add a [ /QUOTE ] without spaces after his text to finish the quote (the Quote button usually does that for you).

[SilviaHI]

[QUOTE=gabefromcali;5942438]

Originally Posted by SilviaHI

Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too!

Haha yeah I thought about it but I wouldnt be updating as much as i'd like to. Too much computer work. I have a bunch of pictures so far though so maybe when I'm further along I'll post a brief summary of where I'm at. Anyway keep it up big dog!

Can't figure out if I quoted correctly haha. Still getting used to this.

Thanks man!

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Is that valve open (it looks open)? Oil is making it passed the rings. I never tested but I don't think it's that unusual if it has been sitting like that for a while. Rings do have gaps.

If the valve is closed then it's an issue.

its now coming out of the intake ports of each cylinder. Hope it's just rings.

[SilviaHI]

Some progress..

gotta do what ya gotta do lol




Found some "H" metal things and ball bearings! Is this from a previously blown BB turbo? (penny is to show size lol)




Soooooo... My plan is to take a visual and measurements on at least one rod bearing. I picked up plastigauge too. Tips are welcome!

[Kingtal0n]

Alright

1. "Is this supposed to be sealed?"
That is an inspection plate. It just covers a tiny hole that allows you to see into the bellhousing.

2. When you turn an SR20 upside down the lifters all bleed out. So now you will have to remove the cams and lifters, and bleed the air out of them, before you re-start that engine. Never turn the motor upside down (or let the lifters sit sideways) for this reason.

3. Measuring a rod bearing is not going to tell you much, unless the whole engine needs to replaced. chances are that if the bottom end is in "trouble" then it is one bearing, often a single random rod bearing, that is in trouble. And trouble is visual, the bearing would look scored or ruined. "Plastigauge" is not a really useful tool for someone in your position. I am still in agreement that you could pull at least one bearing (either rod #1 or #4 IMO) Just to see that is looks decent. But I would put it right back to the torque you found it (FSM) without the use of plastigauge.

finally, all the gaskets you see are just silicone. I would use Toyota grey (or permatex grey) on all the oil pan / water pump gaskets. One big noob mistake is using too much; I recommend you practice on another object to see how little it really takes to seal something up. Excess gets squeezed out, and can wind up in your oil strainer (pickup). Another noob mistake is going too tight; make sure you follow FSM torque, it does not take much tightness to get a good seal and overtightning will cause leaks and in the case of your thin pan, bent mating surfaces.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

2. When you turn an SR20 upside down the lifters all bleed out. So now you will have to remove the cams and lifters, and bleed the air out of them, before you re-start that engine. Never turn the motor upside down (or let the lifters sit sideways) for this reason.

You don't think I can just run it and it will work itself out?

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by SilviaHI

You don't think I can just run it and it will work itself out?

Absolutely not! You need to pull the cams and bleed the lifters when you are done having it upside down.

[SilviaHI]

Okay well I looked up whats involved in taking out the cams and it doesn't look that bad so I'll go for it .... not like I really have a choice lol

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by SilviaHI

Okay well I looked up whats involved in taking out the cams and it doesn't look that bad so I'll go for it .... not like I really have a choice lol

It really is simple. You need basic tools, a timing light, and a really good torque wrench. The torque wrench is everything. You need a very sensitive, delicate instrument, not a harbor freight unit or an old one thats been sitting around. The torque spec is about 9~ ft lbs of torque for the camshaft caps. An old, or cheap torque wrench could easily be off. A half-inch drive unit is likely too insensitive, you will want a 3/8 drive high quality torque wrench.

The camshafts can break if you do not torque them properly. Note in the instructions where it says to tighten the FRONT first, you want to do this gradually (do not simply tighten the first front two caps immediately to the first torque specification. Instead, bring them down 2/10 to 4/10 at a time, such that is takes 2-4 sequences, or 60 individual events, before the bolts have fully seated and begin to show 1-2 ft lbs of torque.) Once they are all "seated" and start showing torque, keep following the same sequence and now you are using the FSM sequence numbers i.e. 3ft lbs, 6ft lbs, 8.8 ft lbs

Lining up the cams and installing the tensioner should be simple enough for you if you can count links and verify lobe positions.

The cas sensor goes in a special way that should also be straightforward for you so make sure you look at that, and know where piston #1 TDC is on the crank pulley (second mark from the left, the yellow dot usually).

And finally the timing. The sr20 is a fickle mistress when it comes to lights. Some timing lights will give you incorrect timing, and some will not work at all. When I find a light that works well, I keep it and hold on to it forever. I still have the same old unit from 10+ years ago. Anyways, once you stab the CAS and have the cams all lined up, everything is pre-oiled and the tensioner is back in, you want to set the valve cover on the motor (but do not tighten it down, just in case something is wrong and you need to go back under there) and it should start just fine, because the CAS if installed correctly will always give you a good starting timing number between 10 and 20* btdc. The final adjustment you make with the car idling. Heres where everyone has their own tricks, that is, where you get your signal. I get my signal from the center coilpack wire of coilpack #1. I simply pull back the loom a bit and strap the pickup onto it. And heres the final trick: the pickup is reversible. If your cas is somewhat center, and the timing light is showing you some inane number like 35* that doesnt make any sense, reverse the pickup (flip it upside down) and check again.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

It really is simple. You need basic tools, a timing light, and a really good torque wrench. The torque wrench is everything. You need a very sensitive, delicate instrument, not a harbor freight unit or an old one thats been sitting around. The torque spec is about 9~ ft lbs of torque for the camshaft caps. An old, or cheap torque wrench could easily be off. A half-inch drive unit is likely too insensitive, you will want a 3/8 drive high quality torque wrench.

The camshafts can break if you do not torque them properly. Note in the instructions where it says to tighten the FRONT first, you want to do this gradually (do not simply tighten the first front two caps immediately to the first torque specification. Instead, bring them down 2/10 to 4/10 at a time, such that is takes 2-4 sequences, or 60 individual events, before the bolts have fully seated and begin to show 1-2 ft lbs of torque.) Once they are all "seated" and start showing torque, keep following the same sequence and now you are using the FSM sequence numbers i.e. 3ft lbs, 6ft lbs, 8.8 ft lbs

Lining up the cams and installing the tensioner should be simple enough for you if you can count links and verify lobe positions.

The cas sensor goes in a special way that should also be straightforward for you so make sure you look at that, and know where piston #1 TDC is on the crank pulley (second mark from the left, the yellow dot usually).

And finally the timing. The sr20 is a fickle mistress when it comes to lights. Some timing lights will give you incorrect timing, and some will not work at all. When I find a light that works well, I keep it and hold on to it forever. I still have the same old unit from 10+ years ago. Anyways, once you stab the CAS and have the cams all lined up, everything is pre-oiled and the tensioner is back in, you want to set the valve cover on the motor (but do not tighten it down, just in case something is wrong and you need to go back under there) and it should start just fine, because the CAS if installed correctly will always give you a good starting timing number between 10 and 20* btdc. The final adjustment you make with the car idling. Heres where everyone has their own tricks, that is, where you get your signal. I get my signal from the center coilpack wire of coilpack #1. I simply pull back the loom a bit and strap the pickup onto it. And heres the final trick: the pickup is reversible. If your cas is somewhat center, and the timing light is showing you some inane number like 35* that doesnt make any sense, reverse the pickup (flip it upside down) and check again.

Just first want to say thanks for all your help. I've yet to take on this portion of the 'rebuild' as I'm waiting to have a few days off where I can organize my workspace and plan it out. I saw a video of a guy bleeding the lifters without changing the timing by ziptie'ing the timing change to the cam gears. It looks like a lot less work but feed back on this would be appreciated.

On another note, I've been getting parts and waiting on others but here are 2 little challenge I encountered today. Help is welcome and NEEDED

I picked up a downpipes for $30 and it will need some modification...

As you can see, the exhaust that came with the car has been chopped up except the axle back muffler and the flange is turned the wrong way. I think I will install a universal/custom short catalytic converter AND flex pipe in the gap. EDIT: I can't find super short cat and joint that would in there thats not going to cost hundreds so I'll need to find a cheaper alternative.



Hows the placement of that wideband bung? I believe its supposed to be located a foot AFTER any bends.. Is this one okay?





Yay all 3"!



CHALLENGE 2

Turns out my JDM JUICE multi-piece wheels have a leak. One rivet has a air leak. Its hard to see but there is an arrow right below the most right spoke. I've done some reading on how to reseal the one rivet but input is welcome.



It looks like Riverside, the Japanese company that makes the wheels, does not have a contact number so I'm not sure of the torque spec so I picked this up. .. It measures torque when both removing AND tightening

[Kingtal0n]

The exhaust should be the simplest, cheapest thing you do to your car. Ebay downpipes are something like $40 now and the test pipe part is no longer necessary on some of them. The only thing after that you need is an OEM exhaust system which can be found locally for $20 whenever I needed one. Literally should be a $70 venture max.

The wideband should be 3-5 feet from the turbo (the wideband should stay below about 1000*F), with as few joints and gaskets between itself and the engine. An exhaust leak will make the sensor read incorrectly; this is why we prefer to limit the number of gaskets (places to leak from) in front of the wideband. The turbo flange needs an OEM gasket and about 1-2 hours of work removing ancient built up carbon (pretty sure I mentioned that alrdy but...) then you use brand new OEM locking tabs followed by an OEM outlet (or other high quality outlet. Ebay brands are known to crack). And finally it is essential to connect the trans-downpipe bracket.

[SilviaHI]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

OEM exhaust system which can be found locally for $20 whenever I needed one. Literally should be a $70 venture max.

You don't understand... I live on a island of hawaii with a total population of 200,000. This whole island is country and theres literally no 240's for parts. Also, its common for eBay sellers to refuse shipping to hawaii for whatever reason. Being on the continental US can have major advantages, but oh well, i can't complain.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

The wideband should be 3-5 feet from the turbo (the wideband should stay below about 1000*F), with as few joints and gaskets between itself and the engine. An exhaust leak will make the sensor read incorrectly; this is why we prefer to limit the number of gaskets (places to leak from) in front of the wideband. The turbo flange needs an OEM gasket and about 1-2 hours of work removing ancient built up carbon (pretty sure I mentioned that alrdy but...) then you use brand new OEM locking tabs followed by an OEM outlet (or other high quality outlet. Ebay brands are known to crack). And finally it is essential to connect the trans-downpipe bracket.

1. At $50 shipped for a oem turbo outlet, i might just wait for it to break
2. Move bung back, got it
3. Prep flanges and new gasket and hardware, check
4. Downpipes bracket, without a doubt!

[S14kouki805]

So what ever happened?