Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Johny5

why did you do that ?

putting a brand new roof on the car from nissan. that isn't warped to hell from people trying experimental welding of sunroof holes.

[Om1kron]

man, drilling out spotwelds sucks... mainly just the pilot hole sucks. click on the picture for a link for yesterdays festivities

[OBEEWON]

Wow, its back.

You have some seriouse patience. I would want that thing on the road already. ETA?

[Om1kron]

august. hey... it's august, sweet.

[Om1kron]

new roof is on... read more over @ violent running by clicking the picture



exclusive shit son.

[azndoc]

There won't even be cars anymore by the time you get done.

People be flying everywhere and have wings and shit.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by azndoc

There won't even be cars anymore by the time you get done.

People be flying everywhere and have wings and shit.

bah they said the same shit to flybert... working on replacing the core support now.

then on thursday we'll fix the rear wheel tubs and weld up the antenna hole.

[adam s]

Originally Posted by azndoc

There won't even be cars anymore by the time you get done.

People be flying everywhere and have wings and shit.

Either way, this car will be the shit when it's done haha

[Om1kron]

more updates, just click on the picture.

[artdrifter]

Nice and clean. supa sick

[GSXRJJordan]

You'll have to take some nice before/after pics of any rear tub modifications ~ I'm trying to figure out if I can seal it off from inside the trunk/back seat area, or if I have to weld pieces to the bottom (under the car) to seal it up.

[Om1kron]

In this update a video of some welding work, the core support is 90 percent in, and the antenna hole getting plugged. Click the picture for the blog post.

(just to answer some questions)

Q: why are you welding without glasses, gloves, etc. Isn't that unsafe?

A: yes and no. before each pull of the trigger my brother is either wearing welding goggles, or for the video you saw shuts his eyes while he pulls the trigger 2-3 times. if he was putting down seams, the necessary safety equipment would be highly recommended but for quick spot welding. There is no elongated exposure, maybe a slight sunburn on the hands if anything depends how much welding is being done.

Q: when are you going to paint it?

A: I want to get it in the shop this week, but I am going to be patient to fix all body descrepancies my brother feels fit, that and I don't have a means of towing it to the shop currently. So that's a factor as well. But the due date for the car being back on the road is September as I still need to buy a new windshield.

[GSXRJJordan]

Haha, I thought of you this week when I pulled my antenna out - I'm gonna shave mine too! Especially since I noticed the wire was cut.

If you need a AAA tow to get your car to the body shop, I got'chu son. I've got like 5 left this year.





Oh, and welding with no mask = fail. Auto-dimming masks are so cool, I almost wear mine when I'm NOT welding...

... cause sometimes the bling, from my wheels, gets bright, ya know?

[Om1kron]

well im not going to spend 100-200 dollars for a welding mask i'm not using lol. we have a face shield and some goggles... but your field of vision turns into tunnel vision in them so you have to directly be staring at the welding area.

but yeah, shave that bitch. good looking on the tow, i definitely need it.

[Om1kron]

Well I am sure many of you are as anxious as I am to see my project come to a close in it's beginning chapters. But my brother has been swamped lately and has a newborn so I can't really be hard on him for flaking on me. He's done a lot already for me and with his engine recently blowing on him and a motorcycle as his only form of transportation. I'd rather wait until he has a day off.

Other than that I did pick up some new goodies, a new mode door motor for my climate control to see if that will fix some of my woes.

A new upper dash vent, that disentegrated when I removed the dash the first time.

Sun visors with the retainer clips, also the exhaust/tranny bracket that i've been after for quite some time. Stoked about that.

And last new wiper motor, and wiper amp (proper) for the s14 since it looks like I had an s13 wiper amp on the car before.

So right now, as you can imagine I am doing what I know how to do in the meantime, electrical work. Right now I am going through the whole electrical system to see how the wiper system is set up.

Right now I'm looking at about 5 different plugs.

The SMJ, the F9, and F7 plugs, the F3, and the Wiper Switch itself E104.

I don't think the instructions for the redtop sr20 into an s14 swap had sufficiently clear information on how to make your wipers properly work and since I've owned my car they never have.

I'm pretty adamant on changing that tonight.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Well I am sure many of you are as anxious as I am to see my project come to a close in it's beginning chapters. But my brother has been swamped lately and has a newborn so I can't really be hard on him for flaking on me. He's done a lot already for me and with his engine recently blowing on him and a motorcycle as his only form of transportation. I'd rather wait until he has a day off.

Other than that I did pick up some new goodies, a new mode door motor for my climate control to see if that will fix some of my woes.

A new upper dash vent, that disentegrated when I removed the dash the first time.

Sun visors with the retainer clips, also the exhaust/tranny bracket that i've been after for quite some time. Stoked about that.

And last new wiper motor, and wiper amp (proper) for the s14 since it looks like I had an s13 wiper amp on the car before.

So right now, as you can imagine I am doing what I know how to do in the meantime, electrical work. Right now I am going through the whole electrical system to see how the wiper system is set up.

Right now I'm looking at about 5 different plugs.

The SMJ, the F9, and F7 plugs, the F3, and the Wiper Switch itself E104.

I don't think the instructions for the redtop sr20 into an s14 swap had sufficiently clear information on how to make your wipers properly work and since I've owned my car they never have.

I'm pretty adamant on changing that tonight.

I decided to make my own wiper 'harness' with my swap, and have done standalone wiper setups with Ernie's vert and a couple others too. I drew it out on a piece of paper, but can't find a pic of the paper, and I know for a fact I'm not going to find it if I go traipsing through the garage at night.

Hit me up if you need assssssistanceeeeeee holmes.

[Om1kron]

I am going to boil it down to I do not have the proper window wiper switch in my car. Or it melted or something or other, I really have nothing else to base this opinion on other than the switch for my s13 looks WAY fancier than my s14 switch. granted the troubleshooting procedure number 2 in the fsm is irrelevant since I don't have the intermittent adjustment knob.



I went through and cleaned up my wiring, everything has proper grounds. I am getting voltage when I change the speeds on the appropriate wires.

Here is the old wiper motor with a broken plug cover.



here is the new wiper motor installed wires mocked up for testing, my soldering iron finally died so I had to pick up a new one and ended up calling it a day here. (the 24th.)


studying.



and drawn out what I need to fuck with.

[GSXRJJordan]

Sadly, that's not possible. S14 switches (and possibly S13 switches, have to check the FSM to be sure) have the same pinout, whether they have intermittent or not (Base, SE, LE, etc - same pinout for the main wires).

Where's your wiper amp? The brown box with the 8 pin plug?

[Om1kron]

my wiper amp is black and only have 7 pins 1 pin is plugged because an 8th pin does not exist on it. The previous window amp only had 6 pins... the pinout is posted above.

[GSXRJJordan]

Ok, here's the deal - for low speed/high speed usage (no intermittent), you don't need the wiper amp or any relays... the motor is supplied constant voltage from the fusebox (20A fused), and you supply the ground to one of two poles via the wiper switch.

Per EL-102 in my FSM (the page Wayne's reading in that "studying" pic), those two wires are Light Green/Red for *low speed* and Light Green/Black for *high speed*... which pins you find these wires in will vary depending on what year your car is, but the COLORS are the same for all years IIRC - LG/R is pin 14 on the wiper switch, LG/B is pin 16. The only other thing you need is to ground the switch itself via the black wire at pin 17 - like the SMJ/M63/F3 pinouts, track wire colors here, not pin locations, as I've found that different year S14's have them in different pins.

That's it. Make sure the wiper motor is getting power and that your ground for the switch is VERY GOOD, otherwise you can burn the wiper motor and/or those tiny wires will get pretty hot.

NOTE: The wipers won't auto-return without the wiper amp, and that shit is annoying a fuck. My suggestion would be to wire in the wiper amp, intermittent action, and live large like the pimp you know you wanna be.

[Om1kron]

Well it's off to paint this week, going to wrap it up.



it's time to tackle these rear tubs.



my brother hammering the tubs going through our options as to how we can seal this up. So rather than have the tubs curve down, we're going to have them go straight across to the body of the car making the wheel well slightly taller. The wheel will still rub where it rubs, maybe even more with some 5mm spacers which I plan on eventually getting.

I took some video but don't feel like rendering it. Here is the metal I removed so far from the passenger side.



here is what the wheel well looks like now.






and then I will start back up in the morning. it's getting late.

[GSXRJJordan]

Oooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhh totally wish you wouldn't have cut that out. It's ridiculously difficult to fit new metal in there smooth enough to not have to use bondo to seal it.

I did this:


... made slices so I could hammer the wheel well up (from the strut-tower level, the highest part of the OEM wheel well) to where it meets the outer quarterpanel, then welded it together. This way, the inner and outer quarterpanel are actually stronger than OEM, and you can lay some bondo (or that foamy Big Gap Filler, if you don't care about it being loud) in the inside and seal it.

Its super difficult to weld new metal in there in the correct shape from the bottom with the quarterpanel in place, and damned near impossible to do it from the inside (because of the interior design). I'd say take your time makin a stencil out of cardboard until it fits perfectly, and then cut it out of similarly-thick sheetmetal (.040" is about what the factory metal is in that location, here's a link to a 2' x 4' sheet of .030" for $23 at McMaster).

You're going to wait on paint until you finish welding right?

[Om1kron]

Sigh, the difference between your method and my method is I have a body shop guy doing my rear wheel tubs, you're adjusting your tubs and destroying your stock metal because you're running rear overs. I am not.

We will weld straight to the body rather than the outer panel. You will see grass hopper.

all body work will be completed before paint. dur.

[CrimsonRockett]

Looks good.

So, what color are you going to be doing?(Sorry, haven't kept up with the thread).

Keeping it black?

[GSXRJJordan]

If you're not using overs, why cut the wheel well? I've never seen any tire rub on the well itself (not the lip) that can't be fixed with a roll... I guess I just don't see it.

Hope you get it all welded up correctly, that's a highly stressed part of the chassis - lots of people have 'creaks' and moans/etc.

[Om1kron]

dark gunmetal...

goes by magnetic black on the 2007 z. used to be called brilliant black but they added more silver pearl to it to give it that gradient effect.

[CrimsonRockett]

Nice.

Always loved Magnetic Black.

Did the hood/bumper on this Z in Magnetic Black.



Love how the color just pops in the sun light.

Should definitely look good.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

If you're not using overs, why cut the wheel well?

You keep missing this... the picture of my brother above with the hammer that's the way they have looked since I bought the car. The metal had to be cut so they could pull the fenders like that without the rear quarter panel buckling in like slide squad marks car (in the for sale forum.)

But they never sealed it up, so I've been driving the car and whomever else for god knows how long exposed to the elements, meaning tons of water, dirt, what not getting in the nooks and crannies of the rear fender wells.

= RUST.

Hope you get it all welded up correctly, that's a highly stressed part of the chassis - lots of people have 'creaks' and moans/etc.

So I am trying to add some years to my cars life by sealing them up. And the car always creaks going up a driveway, probably not as much now since I've given you my upper strut tower bar.

I've never seen any tire rub on the well itself (not the lip) that can't be fixed with a roll... I guess I just don't see it.

you see where the panel is discolored again in the picture with my brother holding the hammer?

the wheel touches there when going up a driveway angled, it doesn't rub when I drive because I am never that low.

to demonstrate, look at me going in my driveway at the end of this video.



That's the only time it makes contact. And you can hear it creek.

[stealthsr20]

holy shit, just read the thread and i bow down to you

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by stealthsr20

holy shit, just read the thread and i bow down to you

Thanks not necessary, according to one of my buddies he says he wants to shoot it for a magazine cover, granted I don't think this car is cover worthy at all. But I'll have more info on that when the time comes.