the wire tuck pic thread

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by TurboSE

it's from ezwiring...sorry it doesn't measure up to your standards, thanks for your input...can I see your wiring set-up to see how it should be done? Mine seems to work fine to run my lights, fan, horn and wipers which is pretty much what I needed.

LOL lets not measure dicks, last I checked before everyone else was making custom harnesses for our cars I'm the only one who documented it and helped show how to do it on this forum. (Granted I used Jeff's Diagram) But I am not telling anyone how anything should be done, I'm not an electrical engineer like toby, or jeff. My whole point was you're trying to rebutt with something nonsensical.

I did all of my research before I started





I stayed with a stock config, congrats on trying something different.



If I could do it all over again and knew a bit more and had more cash (not be unemployed) I would've ran the wiring completely different. My goal was to maintain as close to oem config as possible while cleaning up loose ends and shit I don't need or want.

My car is still a/c capable, dcc is hooked up and works (all features available), and despite my engine looking like a hobo's dick the wiring is on point after many small servicings due to age and wear.

Om1kron, when I want to know about wheels and hoods, your opinion might matter.

You got me mixed up with soapgun, or nathanong. Good luck with your car, try not to let that pussyhurtness prohibit you sharing your progress with your radioshack "painless" harness or whatever you got.

[TurboSE]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

LOL lets not measure dicks, last I checked before everyone else was making custom harnesses for our cars I'm the only one who documented it and helped show how to do it on this forum. (Granted I used Jeff's Diagram) But I am not telling anyone how anything should be done, I'm not an electrical engineer like toby, or jeff. My whole point was you're trying to rebutt with something nonsensical.

I did all of my research before I started





I stayed with a stock config, congrats on trying something different.



If I could do it all over again and knew a bit more and had more cash (not be unemployed) I would've ran the wiring completely different. My goal was to maintain as close to oem config as possible while cleaning up loose ends and shit I don't need or want.

My car is still a/c capable, dcc is hooked up and works (all features available), and despite my engine looking like a hobo's dick the wiring is on point after many small servicings due to age and wear.



You got me mixed up with soapgun, or nathanong. Good luck with your car, try not to let that pussyhurtness prohibit you sharing your progress with your radioshack "painless" harness or whatever you got.

I wasn't trying to rebutt, I was adding that I was using different color wires, then that my harness wasn't a painless...basically seeing if Jeff knew anything about their wire quality. Your comment wasn't productive in any way. Have a Merry Xmas...if you feel the need to discuss this any further, that's what PM's are for.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

You got me mixed up with soapgun, or nathanong. Good luck with your car, try not to let that pussyhurtness prohibit you sharing your progress with your radioshack "painless" harness or whatever you got.

Dude, relax u did come out like a dick, u may talk shit about his electrical wiring. Yes, anything other than mil spec wiring is inferior. Although, u should not be one criticizing when you car body work / paint looks inferior in regards to workmanship, dont let all the zilvia groupies on your jock make u arrogant. I don't think we need to start a body work/paint thread now do we?

since u would probably attempt to retaliate on me now, so what if he has xyz wiring? People should be more helpful on here, i feel some people don't post because they might be scared of being label a dumbass. Im not remotely near trying to start an argument with anyone. Just want more experience member to help if they can, Everyone started somewhere, so let's just cut the B/S and post on her whatever u think might be helpful. Since I know u have several helpful things to share in regard to s14 stuff

[Om1kron]

I don't understand why you felt the need to add your two cents when the guy above and me settled things? And adding extra jabs in there LOL!!! NEWSFLASH rocks. chip. paint!!!! OMG NOES

life goes on. Any other tips I need after my next reply?

I'm not Jeff so I'm not going to tell you that dual sugar wall jesus kissed wiring is better for your car or not. The whole point was someone asked what they thought the wiring quality of the painles was.

they answered.

he replied well I got this off brand painless so I should be okay.

I commented and basically meant "so the knockoff painless should be better?"

and bodykit jokes were flung back, it's zilvia it's expected, get the fuck over it. You idiots fucking derail everything on this godamn sight as soon as your feelings are hurt. People are posting engines in engine bays with "in progress" work in here no wires in the engine bay, this isn't the ENGINE BAY thread.

You don't need to tell me relax, chill out, or add your two cents and as far as making me arrogant, you must have me confused with some fucking dickhead on this website with a slammed car on xxr's or a fake bn bodykit posting his canibeat feature all over the website like his life has been completed. I can do all of the criticizing I want actually, I've done my work and I've documented every step. You build a car in your garage and paint it your godamn self and give me a phone call toolbag now you can go back to circle jerking in this thread. Anyone else feel the need to tell me I'm in the wrong can do just like dude above said and send me my PM or pink me or whatever.

There is like 0 point to be helpful on this website, in the last 3 years alone people will always ask me for advice, I point them to Jeff because they think of me as some guy who can give a second opinion on how things can be done financially lighter and still be good as someone who knows what they're doings work.

We feed you guys an inch and you take things a mile, the last two pages have been about the guy asking about how to make his fusebox for crying out loud and him slinging dumb ass suggestions as to what to integrate into it while everyone is telling him he's doing it wrong.

A different thread should've been started is my point. It's a picture thread, so why am I the bad guy because I didn't follow the rules, am I on the Zilvia varsity team now or some shit? Am I on the council of timeless builds so I have to be some fucking big brother to you idiots?

The lot of you people on this website can go fuck yourselves.

oh and when the paint on your car is still fresh, make sure you get one of these pictures to show how awesome it looks compared to the other cars that are painted by the owners themselves.



^ RULES, NO WIRES SEEN ANYWHERE *jerkoff motion*

This is my official fuck you letter Zilvia.

[Broadfield]

"Where do you think you're going? Nobody's leaving. Nobody's walking out on this fun, old-fashioned family Christmas. No, no. We're all in this together. This is a full-blown, four-alarm holiday emergency here. We're gonna press on, and we're gonna have the hap, hap, happiest Christmas since Bing Crosby tap-danced with Danny fucking Kaye. And when Santa squeezes his fat white ass down that chimney tonight, he's gonna find the jolliest bunch of assholes this side of the nuthouse." -- Christmas Vacation --

That was some funny shit Wayne! Merry Christmas

[GSXRJJordan]

Hahaha I love that Toby comes in with the Christmas Vacation quote right afterwards... Icing on the cake!

Scrounging wiring from a shitty kit leaves you with shitty wire. Wire is one of the cheapest parts of doing one of these jobs, and decent automotive TXL (not Mil-spec wire) is commonly available in all different colors.

Merry Christmas everybody, I love some of you, and like the rest to varying degrees

[godrifttoday]

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.....

I did paint my car myself. My Intentions were not to get anyone upset, just a statement to add to my point. I just want everyone to come together and help each other out!

[EsChassisLove]

Pic thread pic thread pic thread.

[TurboSE]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Hahaha I love that Toby comes in with the Christmas Vacation quote right afterwards... Icing on the cake!

Scrounging wiring from a shitty kit leaves you with shitty wire. Wire is one of the cheapest parts of doing one of these jobs, and decent automotive TXL (not Mil-spec wire) is commonly available in all different colors.

Merry Christmas everybody, I love some of you, and like the rest to varying degrees

My shitty wire works, and when it fails (it definitely will right?), I'll buy my wire from a vendor that's willing to explain what I should buy rather than just call my kit shit. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by TurboSE

My shitty wire works, and when it fails (it definitely will right?), I'll buy my wire from a vendor that's willing to explain what I should buy rather than just call my kit shit. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

*but most are hardparkers

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by codyace

*but most are hardparkers

Oh dear god... Lmao.

[90240sx07]

lol only if it was cheaper
k so back on topic
i started looking at fuse blocks and found this one how do you think it would work and would it be enough fuses i believe it is
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?s...llerid=9585741
the following will be used
elminating emissions horns possibly bumper lights

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by 90240sx07

lol only if it was cheaper
k so back on topic
i started looking at fuse blocks and found this one how do you think it would work and would it be enough fuses i believe it is
Buy.com - Blue Sea 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block w/ Cover - 12 Circuit w/ Negative Bus
the following will be used
elminating emissions horns possibly bumper lights

12 circuit is perfect, I'm actually going to switch to one of those.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by TurboSE

My shitty wire works, and when it fails (it definitely will right?), I'll buy my wire from a vendor that's willing to explain what I should buy rather than just call my kit shit. Thanks for your help, Happy New Year.

There are only a few ways to rate wire. Current carrying capacity is a function of the cross-sectional area of copper (almost all automotive wire is copper core), so what matters is:
1) abrasion resistance - how easy it is to nick, chafe, etc
2) working temp - what temperature the sheathing starts to melt/fail
3) chemical resistance - what types of chemicals the sheathing is cool with.

The cheap aftermarket wire (and some OEM wire) is PVC sheathed, regular old polyvinylchroride. It's not resistant to shit. Can nick it with any sharp edge, working temp of about 100*F (nothing), and if you spill brake fluid or some trans fluids on it, it'll start to bubble. Worst thing about cheap wire is you can't visually tell when it fails, because it's typically wrapped up and touching somewhere that you can't find it.

Next up the totem pole is the bottom-of-the-barrel synthetics, commonly called Automotive TXL. Cross-linked, extruded synthetic sheathing, but still just basic copper inside and not rated for more than 125*C. This is much, much better than PVC, and still cheap/commonly available. This is what OEMs are using now.

Finally we reach the real stuff, aviation/space shit, like the Mil-spec M22759/42 and M22759/11 wire that we use. Working temps of 200*C+, the thinnest insulation (smallest bundles), chemically resistant to EVERYTHING, and you can't nick it with an Xacto blade... it's actually fairly difficult to strip it, to be honest. This is the same wire that flies in the space shuttle. Not super duper expensive, but it is harder to get.

If you're going to the trouble of re-wiring your car, I'd imagine you'd only want to do it once, so why wouldn't you use wire that's actually rated to stand up to the environment you're putting it in?

Merry Christmas. I'm not here to sell wire. This breakdown is a gift.

[90240sx07]

how much would some mil spec wiring run for like to do the front area of my car headlights etc.........

[Bullet01]

Jeez what happened to this thread?? You guys should start a new thread about all your wiring info so people can continue posting pics of wire tucks.

[godrifttoday]

What happen ? We were as closed to zilvia world war 3 as the Cuban missile crisis in the 1960's.

[blackej7]

Question:

What is the correct way to run a shielded wire through a multi-pin bulkhead connector? Just put the shield on a separate pin?

Thanks!

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by blackej7

Question:

What is the correct way to run a shielded wire through a multi-pin bulkhead connector? Just put the shield on a separate pin?

Thanks!

Excellent question.

The shield needs to be chassis grounded somewhere, either you pull out a ground at the engine connector end or at the bulkhead connector end. There's no need to blow a pin on a shield ground, since it doesn't do anything for you on the other end, although if you had to it's not the worst thing in the world.

Trickiest thing working with shielded wire in a bulkhead connector is the 'strands' of shield that are left when you strip back the shield to pin the primary wire(s)... you need to be very careful to trim and then heat shrink the shield so these strands don't fall and short your bulkhead connector's pins.

I had an intermittent stat sync error (crank signal problem) on Conrad Grunewald's LS7 last year that turned out to be a 1/8" long, almost microscopic shield strand that fell out of the heat shrink (I'd used non-adhesive shrink on that) and arc'd across the crank sensor's pins. Ridiculously hard to figure that out lol.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

What happen ? We were as closed to zilvia world war 3 as the Cuban missile crisis in the 1960's.

It was 11:58pm on Zilvia Doomsday clock for sure.


Jeff: What is your solder iron and solder of choice?

[Matej]

How do you gentlemen go about eliminating the unwanted holes in the firewall and engine bay for the extra spiffy tucked look?
I do not know anything about 'shaving' or welding and such, but I would like to have mine done. At least the big holes in the firewall, such as the engine harness, hood release cable, and heater/AC holes.

Would the engine and/or dash need to be out of the car? Who should I find to get it done? Anyone with a welder, or is it an advanced procedure?

For example, I see that Mr. Broadfield has welded(?) the openings in his bay, the hood release cable hole, and various other little holes.

[90240sx07]

ya u can weld most of the holes shut if you dont have fender liners and/or heater ac setup just make sure the welder is a good welder and knows what he's doing dash would most likely need to be out to weld on the firewall

[godrifttoday]

Here how I did mine . I just welded a small piece of sheet metal.

[D1S13]

awesome read as of late!!!! super funny but good shit.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by codyace

Jeff: What is your solder iron and solder of choice?

For general wire splices/etc and especially for doing stuff inside the car, I use the same Radio Shack huge soldering guns that I've used for over 10yrs. I keep replacing them every 6 months or so under warranty lol.

Fast startup, consistent heat, and reliable.


Generally use .030" 60/40 rosin-core solder with the nastiest flux (most active, don't care about easy cleanup) in it I can. Also have some .040 (or maybe it's .060?) silver-bearing solder for big stuff, like brazing 4ga+ lugs. Then I have a little tub of some mega RA flux for seriously corroded wires.

At my actual soldering/ESD table, I have my Metcal MX-500 setup. It's got the big ass transformer, pen wand, auto-sleep stand, a Hakko copper cleanup ball, and a couple different sizes of rosin-core solder. Usually have the needle tip on it for doing SMC work, but also have a 'hoof' tip for doing regular wires. Also have the tweezers for removing surface-mount components. It's a dream to use.

These pictures are about a year old, in other people's shops, but they're the only ones I have of the Metcal setup I think.

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Here how I did mine . I just welded a small piece of sheet metal.

Exactly, weld a piece of metal behind it and then bondo it in. Generally can be done from the inside with the engine still in, but you'd better be sure there's no fuel vapor outside, or carpeting inside. The firewall is two pieces of metal glued and spot welded together, and in the middle the sealant likes to catch fire.

[s13greasemonkey]

Originally Posted by Matej

How do you gentlemen go about eliminating the unwanted holes in the firewall and engine bay for the extra spiffy tucked look?
I do not know anything about 'shaving' or welding and such, but I would like to have mine done. At least the big holes in the firewall, such as the engine harness, hood release cable, and heater/AC holes.

Would the engine and/or dash need to be out of the car? Who should I find to get it done? Anyone with a welder, or is it an advanced procedure?

For example, I see that Mr. Broadfield has welded(?) the openings in his bay, the hood release cable hole, and various other little holes.

Its pretty easy just takes patience, and learning how to weld on the thin engine bay metal...I'll admit I burned alot of bigger holes in the metal through the process and make up new words haha. Here's some pics of when I started/finished.

Previous owner of the car cut out big f**king holes for the cold/hot pipes so i cut out the entire section and welded in new metal.


The marked "X's" are holes I needed to weld up

[Matej]

Thank you all for the advice. Last question, is there any specific type of metal that would be preferable to use?

[anthonyr sil8ty]

^^ I have been considering this aswell, the only concern I have is doing bondo and it cracking. I have seen several bays with bondo and having several spider cracks, is it just poor prep/poor material???

[90240sx07]

cracking bondo is usually because ppl put it on to thick or dont know how to prep or prepare bondo not real hard to do just takes some knowledge