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Old 09-13-2010, 03:13 PM   #661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkkouki View Post
Do any of you guys know if I can use the RB25DET fuel rail and injectors on an RB20DET?
Not likely. The injector bosses in the lower intake manifold are different from RB25 to RB20...
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:30 PM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkkouki View Post
Do any of you guys know if I can use the RB25DET fuel rail and injectors on an RB20DET?
no you cannot . the fuel rails are both different. rb25 uses side feed injectors and rb20 use top feed injectors.



Quote:
Originally Posted by singlecamslam View Post
Ok noob question, do i need to use my s13 temp sensor (for the gauge cluster water temp) on the rb25 for the cluster temp to work? mine doesnt work after i hooked it up.

yes you need the coolant temp sensor from the motor that was previously in the car for the temp gauge on your cluster to read properly. but if yours dosent work at all , then your problem might be deeper then just the sensor.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:18 AM   #663
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The gauge sensor needs to be swapped, as the rb reads Celsius. The temperature sensor connectors for the ecu are most likely different between ka and rb, I know mine were. I think rhjapan sells some rb temperature sensors. I'm using a '98 sentra sensor without problems so far.
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:27 PM   #664
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ok rb people, so im getting ready to buy new spark plugs for my rb25. The reason is because im been experiencing bogging and lag once my engine warms up, but when its semi cold or not warmed up all the way, it runs really good and no lag or bogging. For example, once the engine is warmed i hit full throttle and it bogs once as soon as press it all the way and a few times more after that. It also lags. I think the spark plugs have something to do with this, if it doesnt solve the problem then at least i have new spark plugs because im still running the ones that came with the engine. So i have a couple of questions, what spark plugs should i run with a fairly stock rb25. My setup is: isis intake manifold, stock tb, fmic, stock turbo with rb20 actuator (10 psi). Next question is, what other things could be causing the bogging and lag once engine is warm but not when its cold?
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:21 AM   #665
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I may have missed it but what belts can I get to replace my Altenator and Power steering on an rb25det. Would they be the same as the rb26?
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:09 AM   #666
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I may have missed it but what belts can I get to replace my Altenator and Power steering on an rb25det. Would they be the same as the rb26?
power steering belt Gates K030334
Alternator Belt: Gates K040335
A/C Belt: Gates K040378
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:59 AM   #667
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I'm at the point of buying a new clutch for my rb25 that's going into my S14, and would like some first hand experience with which clutch would best suit my needs.
70% daily driven
20% SCCA solo racing
10% drift and just being stupid, lol
I don't have much experience with choosing clutches, and after looking at a few such as the: act 6-puck sprung, spec stage 3, JWT clutch dont really know what to choose. Honestly I know there needs to be a sacrifice of engagement for clutch holding power but my main concern is ease of engagement. I am not looking to spend $400+ on a clutch, just something thats reliable and isn't going to be replaced after a few months.
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:06 PM   #668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline racer510 View Post
I'm at the point of buying a new clutch for my rb25 that's going into my S14, and would like some first hand experience with which clutch would best suit my needs.
70% daily driven
20% SCCA solo racing
10% drift and just being stupid, lol
I don't have much experience with choosing clutches, and after looking at a few such as the: act 6-puck sprung, spec stage 3, JWT clutch dont really know what to choose. Honestly I know there needs to be a sacrifice of engagement for clutch holding power but my main concern is ease of engagement. I am not looking to spend $400+ on a clutch, just something thats reliable and isn't going to be replaced after a few months.
any 1990-1996 300zx N/A clutch...

I know that Autozone clutches are definitely not the best, but with a lifetime warranty you cant beat it!

Autozone Part#NU31208
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:55 PM   #669
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Lol I have seen some autozone clutches and I shit you not they are held together with plastic. - was refering to a name brand clutch that people would recommend regarding some of things I wrote above. Lifetime warranty for clutches means they are cheap to produce and won't cost much to replace if they go out on you. Lol "autozone", you must be trying your first attempt
at being sarcastic. No pun intended towards autozone.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:08 AM   #670
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go with a street disk of any brand. i would prefer ACT
i have an ACT street disk with a heavy duty pressure plate and i love it. dont replace your clutch with an oem replacement, it wont hold for long with what you want to do with the car.
price wise , it will be a little more expensive but you get what you pay for man.
dont forget to re-surface your flywheel as well
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:14 PM   #671
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How much stiffer is the clutch pedal compared to stock?
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:26 PM   #672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline racer510 View Post
I'm at the point of buying a new clutch for my rb25 that's going into my S14, and would like some first hand experience with which clutch would best suit my needs.
70% daily driven
20% SCCA solo racing
10% drift and just being stupid, lol
I don't have much experience with choosing clutches, and after looking at a few such as the: act 6-puck sprung, spec stage 3, JWT clutch dont really know what to choose. Honestly I know there needs to be a sacrifice of engagement for clutch holding power but my main concern is ease of engagement. I am not looking to spend $400+ on a clutch, just something thats reliable and isn't going to be replaced after a few months.
I Bought a Exedy Stage 1 for mine (havent driven it yet) but pedal feel is not bad, just a little stiffer over OEM
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:51 AM   #673
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Im also gonna post this in here


Need Info on swapping an RB into your 240SX?
Look no further
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/332057-project-rb-how.html
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:16 PM   #674
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I priced out the Intercooler piping from Mckinny-$500,with BOV is a total of $800..
Does anyone know of a cheaper Intercooler kit for an rb25 with Greddy style IM for the s13 swap? I can't see spending that much on it.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:57 PM   #675
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Quote:
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I priced out the Intercooler piping from Mckinny-$500,with BOV is a total of $800..
Does anyone know of a cheaper Intercooler kit for an rb25 with Greddy style IM for the s13 swap? I can't see spending that much on it.
holy shit they upped the price on the piping.
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Old 11-13-2010, 12:43 AM   #676
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cx racing offers a front mount kit with piping for an rb25 swap with greddy IM for $350 shipped on ebay. It does take some adjusting and a few couplers were the wrong size but its def a good start.
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:33 AM   #677
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Quote:
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holy shit they upped the price on the piping.
Yes they did.Haha. They said they will weld on a BOV flange anywhere as long as I supply the flange tho,so that does save some cash.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:53 AM   #678
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Alright, I'm at the point of installing my hydraulic lash adjusters and I did some research on the proper way to bleed them by having the top of the HLA facing up with a rod of some kind inserted into the top of the HLA and pushing down numerous times in a container filled with oil to bleed out any air that may be trapped within the HLA and having it only be able to suck in oil. My question is how important is this on rb25 HLA's and are rb25 HLA's self bleeding?
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:01 PM   #679
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Alright, I'm at the point of installing my hydraulic lash adjusters and I did some research on the proper way to bleed them by having the top of the HLA facing up with a rod of some kind inserted into the top of the HLA and pushing down numerous times in a container filled with oil to bleed out any air that may be trapped within the HLA and having it only be able to suck in oil. My question is how important is this on rb25 HLA's and are rb25 HLA's self bleeding?
are you talking about the hydraulic lifters ?
if so you dont insert anything through the top hole while bleeding them. you just hold them wrist deep in oil , hold the top side up and with your finger press the plunger down repetitively.

yes , the lifters are important and yes the lifters are self bleeding once you put them in. but its smart to prime them with some oil inside of them first before installing

but if you're not talking about lifters then ignore this post.
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:20 PM   #680
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Your right eklips, I am talking about them. I realized that you cant really stick anything in the hole at the top as it is too small anyway. I also posted this on the actual tech forum and one of the members also posted that they do bleed themselves after 10 mins of 1000rpm.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:13 AM   #681
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What is the reason why you cant use a Greddy/Freddy Intake Manifold for an R33 RB25 into a R34 NEO RB25?
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:56 AM   #682
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What is the reason why you cant use a Greddy/Freddy Intake Manifold for an R33 RB25 into a R34 NEO RB25?
Here ya go
Greddy Intake Manifold on RB25 neo?? : RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum

from a quick search it seems that the manifold will bolt up, I forgot NEO's use top feed injectors so it seems you gotta mod the fuel, and the IACV and Throttle body has issues
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:21 AM   #683
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Anyone have valve spring seat to valve stem clearances?
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:29 AM   #684
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nobody knows, really? Is there even such thing on these engines?
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:51 AM   #685
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what intercooler are you guys using for a rb25
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:56 AM   #686
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what intercooler are you guys using for a rb25
The core or the kit?

I have a ISIS Core with Mckinney Piping, but Mckenny Jacked up teh priceing on the Piping
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:59 AM   #687
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what the size you got. I trying to figure out what intercooler size i need. trying to figure out searching what the difference is i heard you dont want to big and not to small ehh. I was talking about the whole fmic like the piping and the intercooler
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:02 AM   #688
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ISIS only makes one size, its a standard size core like every other FMIC
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:49 PM   #689
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read your build man that nice. i was wondering what the difference between intercoolers like the sizing of them. looking at blitz and greddy they look the same
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:50 PM   #690
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read your build man that nice. i was wondering what the difference between intercoolers like the sizing of them. looking at blitz and greddy they look the same
Nothing really different between them, Sizing is gonna be the same The only real diff between them is the core design for the cooling bars
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