V8 240sx FAQ

[travon47]

Originally Posted by Beas

doesn't pop under normal around town driving, only while drifting and hitting rev limit. valley cover may have helped some, idk, but the dipstick still popped. 100k miles on lq9. had good compression when I installed it.

Do a leak down test, then you can see if air is getting past the rings and the % that is lost. Open your oil cap and if air is whistling from there it is your rings.

[flores.rudy22]

Whats up everyone I have a question about my Ls1 ECU. How do I go about disabling the vats security system emissions skip shift all that good stuff or were can I send out to. Thanks in advance!!

Sorry for posting it twice.


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[Gremo]

Originally Posted by flores.rudy22

Whats up everyone I have a question about my Ls1 ECU. How do I go about disabling the vats security system emissions skip shift all that good stuff or were can I send out to. Thanks in advance!!

Sorry for posting it twice.


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I used hp tuners. If you don't want to purchase it maybe someone local has it and you can buy the credits needed.

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[flores.rudy22]

Originally Posted by Gremo

I used hp tuners. If you don't want to purchase it maybe someone local has it and you can buy the credits needed.

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Ohh all right I'm going to look for a shop near me.


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[illest545]

Do you guys think maybe some people will start possibly swapping hemi crate engine into s chassis now, since a 392 or even 345 s13 would be awesome, but the dimensions might not fit so well but it'd be like an ls3 erod kit sort of. Thoughts on this?

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[Gremo]

Originally Posted by illest545

Do you guys think maybe some people will start possibly swapping hemi crate engine into s chassis now, since a 392 or even 345 s13 would be awesome, but the dimensions might not fit so well but it'd be like an ls3 erod kit sort of. Thoughts on this?

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I'm sure someone will soon if not already. Not sure about fitment. Are they 90° v8s? Might be similar fitment to the ls.

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[PattonXX7]

Does anyone know the difference between an LS1 T56 and an LT1 T56? Pros and cons of having a Lt1 T56 compared to the LS1 T56? Thanks

[afishysilvia]

Originally Posted by PattonXX7

Does anyone know the difference between an LS1 T56 and an LT1 T56? Pros and cons of having a Lt1 T56 compared to the LS1 T56? Thanks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...6-ls1-t56.html

Lots of good stuff here man...

For Chevy stuff honestly LS Tech is superior. For anything S chassis related this is your best bet, that is if you post accordingly

[PattonXX7]

Originally Posted by afishysilvia

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...6-ls1-t56.html

Lots of good stuff here man...

For Chevy stuff honestly LS Tech is superior. For anything S chassis related this is your best bet, that is if you post accordingly

Ok cool thanks man I’ll give them a try👍🏼

[Benfica7]

From my research, there is not a lot of room to play with for the radiator and fan setup. I've seen that the KA replacements are "good enough", but I don't think they have the cooling power as a dual pass. What do you all recommend?

For my setup of clearance, I will be either using a 5.3/6.0 LM7/LQ9 with ls1 power steering pump, camaro water pump, truck alternator & sikky cold air intake.

[afishysilvia]

Originally Posted by Benfica7

From my research, there is not a lot of room to play with for the radiator and fan setup. I've seen that the KA replacements are "good enough", but I don't think they have the cooling power as a dual pass. What do you all recommend?

For my setup of clearance, I will be either using a 5.3/6.0 LM7/LQ9 with ls1 power steering pump, camaro water pump, truck alternator & sikky cold air intake.

I have a KA godspeed rad and it's not cutting the job here in California. I recently just purchased the Chase Bays tucked radiator that's huge, dual pass and allows for more room with bigger fans. What kit are you running? That does matter as well, but from most of the efficient swaps I've seen they either cut the core support to fit a large radiator and fan setup or they have tubular front ends.

[Benfica7]

I will be using sikky motor mounts and LOJ conversions tranny mount. (I am using a 300zx transmission)

[afishysilvia]

With sikky I think there should be enough clearance without cutting, id still go with a larger dual pass. But your temps don’t get very warm where you are also.

[Benfica7]

I do plan to go dual pass and fans.

The car has had an LS setup by the previous owner, who parted out and used a KA to then sell for less money. So we shall see what the trans tunnel and front core support look like.

[JacksonWh37]

Hey,
I didn?t see if there was an answer to this question, can the stock rear end take all this torque? Answer me later plz best convection microwave on mykitchenadvisor.com .

[gmorrone1214]

Hey all, I have a S14 with a l96 connected to a 370z 6 speed. Does anyone know of a shifter relocation kit to move it to the stock position?

[S13 Charlie]

I can't believe that the LS1 is lighter than a KA! That's awesome, that alone is putting dollar-destroying thoughts in my head...

Can the R200 differential and stock S-chassis driveshafts hold up to the increased torque/power? I suppose the first thing to start screaming for help would be the rear tires, heh.

Hinson's website doesn't seem to be updated to include S-chassis swap kits. Do you have a link that we could follow.

cheers,

c

[1 88 U]

Originally Posted by ThatGuy

I want to SEE this swap in an S13. If it fits as nicely as the FD RX7, I'm in.

[blu808]

Brian Hinson and i will be working on a street legal kit soon.

[blu808]

Well the street legal version wont effect the current version. so feel free to get the current kit, then mod it later on.

[ryan hagen]

does the ls1 based iron block 5.3l truck motor have a regular chevy bell housing i never see them cause they are always on the shelf? the place i work at has viper tranneys laying around stacked like fire wood. and we have several 5.3l laying around too.

any one know the weight difference of the 5.3L iron vs 5.7L ls1?

[blu808]

weight difference is over 100lbs. and it puts out much less hp, weaker crank, compression, etc.

BTW the viper tranny i dont think will work with the 240 hinson driveshaft since the viper has a different diameter driveshaft recepticle thing.

[OJmobileII]

i voted for an informative v8 Faq, not advertising for a company. i followed the developement of hinson's kit for an s14 on two other forums and have been anxiously awaiting info on their s13 project. they do quality work, but this is a v8 Faq. look at our other faqs... those r informative, people have put out different approaches. both wut has worked and wut hasnt. as well as, maybe wut might work.

Luke started the thread off with facts and figures regarding the performance of various chevy small blocks. i think we should follow this lead and discuss different options for the install. people can have shops combine the back of the KA driveshaft w/ the front of the LS and then balance it. maybe someone can use block huggers and weld an LS exhaust flange??? also wut parts do u need for the swap, such as ecu and harness.

we need to discuss different rear ends, cams, etc in this fact. we need to find out wut works best for every persons goal. wut to do if ur building a street car, drag car, daily driver, etc.

10k for a complete turn key diy project? i have been researching a small block 240 swap and there r many different routes besides buying an all in one kit. there is even a kid who had a budget of $4000, bought an fc shell and swapped in an lt1+t56 without running out of money (i know, i know that swap is more documented and parts r cheaper and it might be a little bit easier, but i'm jus saying). alot of parts can be easily fabricated, while others ur better off buying. i can point people in the direction of better info regarding a diy swap, but i'm not sure of the policy here on posting links to other forums and such.

i wanted to post information regarding different chevy gen iii motors such as the LS truck motors(5.3l alum, 5.3l cast, and 6.0l cast), but i was afraid of giving false information people should avoid jus posting for the sake of posting and give correct information. people posting to up their count makes searches more difficult and thats y people repost, cus after an hour or so of looking through crap they decide to ask. and then all the big shots yell out search n00b.

heres some info i've pieced together regarding chevy small block v8s:

ls1/ls2/ls6 jus the motor weigh approximately 100lbs lighter than the ka (for all u ka-t people remember that turbo, i/c, etc add alot of weight).

aluminum 5.3 truck motor weighs about the same as the above, but ive recently seen the prices of this motor go up to the point where it is almost better to buy an ls1 (since u will want to change out the cam and doing so u will need to buy the cam, of course, and ls6 valvesprings). only advantage here is perhaps lower miles than a typical ls1.

lt1/lt4 weigh about the same as the ka and deliver almost as much performance (as u can see from luke's info on the first page). these would be the most bang for the buck. but many r high mileage and beat to hell.

cast 5.3/6.0 weigh about the same as the above lt series. u can find this in local boneyards and usually have less miles than any of the LS/LT motors

as far as transmissions go. if u have an ls motor u want a 6speed u have to get the t56 out of an ls series car. if have an lt motor u can use the t56 out of an lt series car. remember the t56 is really heavy so when u look at different weights of ka + trans vs chevy + trans.... remember that alot of that weight is in the transmission which will be low and in the center of the car.

for those genuinely interested in this swap please try researching the v8 rx7s. people have been doing this swap for a little bit longer and u can find alot of information (just weed out all the rotary vs piston arguing). like i said before i can point people in the right direction w/ links, but i dont know how the mods feel about that.

just like anyother used engine (sr20, ka24, rb, ca, etc) remember u r getting a used part and u have to be ready for any problems that might come with that.

this ended up being much longer than i had anticipated, sorry.

[95KA-Turbo]

I am asking about the completeness of the kit because I have been reading write-ups on other forums about a 240 LS1 swap and their modifications are more laborious but a lot cheaper. I am asking because it is good for people to know - who may not have access to do some of the modifications necessary for a full DIY swap - whether or not you can spend 14-2400 dollars to get the motor to work in your car simply and safely. I think it is important to know information like that before committing to a project all the way.

[OJmobileII]

i understand that this is a community where we share information about personal experiences with certain products. i would love to see someone buy the kit and then post feedback. most of the questions that people have been asking can be answered by simply calling hinson.

i had a question about one of their kits. i emailed them and i received a response in under a week. they r in the business of making money when someone has a question regarding one of their products they r more than happy to answer it as promptly as possible.

most of the information regarding the kit is jus speculation and hearsay because no one has it yet (as far as i know). it is best to get information from the source. and then rely on peers for their opinions. does it come with this or does it come with that should not be answered by people who dont know.

in the interest of this faq i will not make another post like this one. if anyone has any questions for me, feel free to pm me. i will get back to u as soon as i can. thanks.

[blu808]

Oj: Some good points in your post. I do think you need to reread this though. I am not here to sell hinson kits. I have simply posted the pricing that was provided by hinson. All of my post besides that were either info on the swap/motors, or answering peoples questions. If you havent noticed i havent tried to sell anything here. If people would like to buy parts from me they pm me.

Other then that you have alot of good points.

There are many people who build a v8fc for under 4k including the car. Keep in mind a fc is basically made for a v8. a c4 corvette driveshaft fits a ls1/ lt1 fc with no mods, stock headers fit no problem, and the mounting kit is like $300. add that with a $50 mustang radiator, and a $79 clutch master cyl and your done. Not much involved in that swap.

Then there is also the option of using say a lt1/lt4/5.0/454/ blah blah blah.
That is allways an option, and still an area to look into. But there is no question about the fact that the best choice for a 240sx/v8 would be the lsx motors. Also keep in mind that the only american motors that would be street legal would be the:
LSX, Lt, and 1991+ mustang v8's. because they have to be the same year of the car or newer.

Yeayea. throw a northstar motor in there, or even nissan titan motor. Those would be cool, but we are trying to keep it on the topic of common motors.

[blu808]

Ok guys let me break this down for yall.

Ls1/t56 Around $5000.00
Hinson Mounting kit
Headers: $985 for both Stainless 1 3/4" long tubes into 3" collectors.
Steel drive shaft $275
Aluminum $420
S13/S14 complete mounting kit $1122.32 about a week turn around. Includes corvette engine mounts. Deduct $160 ifr they allready have vette mounts.
Cooling system $450-$$$$$
Clutch line, and master cyl $150-????
odd and ends. $600

Now if i wanted to do the most basic swap. I would atleast do the following.

Cam $190-$300
Timing chain (zo6) $80.00
Cromoly pushrods $90.00
Valve springs (dual) $200.00
Titainium retainers $75.00
160 Deg T-stat $50.00
Underdrive pulley $140-280
Belt tensioner $150-200
Clutch $300-$$$$$
ECU tuning software. $500-1800

[Kinematics]

Originally Posted by blu808

Now if i wanted to do the most basic swap. I would atleast do the following.

Cam $190-$300
Timing chain (zo6) $80.00
Cromoly pushrods $90.00
Valve springs (dual) $200.00
Titainium retainers $75.00
160 Deg T-stat $50.00
Underdrive pulley $140-280
Belt tensioner $150-200
Clutch $300-$$$$$
ECU tuning software. $500-1800

Why?

How is adding all that crap to an LS1 make it a "most basic" swap? You mean a "most basic" swap with an extra couple grand in unnecessary parts attached for no reason. The cluch, few maintenance items understandable. The cam, pushrods, etc? No wonder people think this swap is so expensive, when you (Zilvia's appointed v8 resource) considers all these extra parts a necessity to any LS1 swap.

Sounds like overkill to me. If an LS1 in an FD with headers and some other minor things nets you high 11s... putting all those extra parts on the motor to make it even FASTER before you've even driven the thing is just making the initial cost even larger and would make the car even scarier. I am sure high 11s is faster than 95% of what all of Zilvia has ever gone in the quarter, and the amount of power a stock LS1 makes is more than enough for road racing, drifting, drag, whatever..

The buttload of torque the LS1 makes also (in my opinion) will be a lot more of a handful in a light S-chassis car. Naturally aspirated 300+hp/tq is a lot different than the same amount of power with a turbo, and the ability to spin the tires in any gear at any speed is definitely not something to tool around with. I can just think of all the idiots who drop the money to get this done and then think they can floor it anywhere they go like anyone can with an SR. There are plenty of videos online of Corvettes, FBodies, etc.. banging 2nd while WOT and just going completely sideways and losing control. I am sure losing control in an S-chassis car wouldn't take much effort at all.

There has also been a lot of talk in this thread regarding the poor oil pickup system. If we have to convert to a GTO oilpan/pickup.. uhh.. hello?! How many GTOs are out there road racing, drifting, etc, without any oil pickup or sump problems? Can't we just leave the motor stock and not nitpick and waste more money over false issues like this? at the very least, get a girdle or baffles for the oil pan. I guess that's the problem with us S-chassis guys, we can't just leave something alone, it has to be modified to the fullest extent possible.

-------------------------------

What is the solution for making an LS1 compatable with stock s-chassis gauges? Will there be any change in the output signal necessary to make the speedometer and tachometer work?

As for the rear end, Ivan with the 9.22sec S14 is on the stock (welded) rear end and axles. So I think replacing those things is just another unnecessary cost seeing as how they will handle a ton of power.

I am a bit skeptical about the marketing of the Hinsen kit. The kit for the FC is less than 400 dollars, but the S14/S13 is over a thousand. The FC even is a custom piece, and not just a modification of the subframe that you have to ship in. I understand costs for research, design, etc.. but considering that a completely custom kit for the FC is 600 dollars cheaper sounds backwards to me.

I am exploring other options beyond the Hinsen kit. I also have access for fabrication, so that will give me an advantage over those who may not. This swap in my opinion can be done for a lot cheaper than some of the quotes listed in this thread so far, and hopefully I will be the one to prove it. A stock LS1 would be more than enough for me and just about everyone else out there considering this swap, and if for whatever reason it isn't, you can always add a 150 shot. I am surprised no one has yet mentioned how much LS1s love the juice. Before any of you say "Hey dumbshit, you can't drift with nitrous," you guys should all think how the fuck you expect to drift and have any sense of control when you have 400ft-lbs of naturally aspirated torque, too.

Hopefully what I have typed up raises some further thought into the LS1 swap.

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by Kinematics

Hopefully what I have typed up raises some further thought into the LS1 swap.

Very good points...

In your opinion, what should be an estimated price of this swap (stock)?

I have always said if I did this swap, staying stock would be plenty for me...with the exception of a few very MINOR upgrades.