02-09-2012, 10:23 PM | #691 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Nopes, thats actually good. I had mine so close that it would grind the springs ever so often (MR coilovers 17x10+12 with 8mm spacers). I'd have to jack the car up, turn the springs so the lip of the rim would be sitting between the coils.
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02-10-2012, 08:08 PM | #692 | |
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The way the front suspension behaves during heavy cornering allows me to run just less than -3* negative camber up front without any wear issues. I can also throw the car into a corner a little faster without the Push feeling now. I'm assuming it was because I started running a little more aggressive camber and the outside tire is laying flat and grabbing better.
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02-12-2012, 01:50 AM | #694 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Best for flush? Why dont you look at what you have now and see yourself. Look how far out or in the tires you have now are and calculate how much space you have. Kinda hard to see from a picture of the side profile of the car.
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02-12-2012, 09:47 AM | #697 |
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Sup guys. What's the best fitment for an S14 with Works Emotion XD9's 18" without having to pull fenders and stretched tires.
My previous set up was: Rota Grid's 18x9.5" +15 and 235/40/R18 all around and I didn't have to modify nothing, because the car isn't so low, but I want to lower it more. I have tanabe lowering springs right now, but I want to buy some coilovers. What do you guys recomend me? Thanks!
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02-12-2012, 11:07 AM | #698 |
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from your last pic it looks like you could lower another 1.5" keeping your tire specs the same and then probably even remove some camber to get that tire really close to the fender. in the front, same specs you would just need to add some camber and it should work just fine.
you could also go 225/40/18 in the front for a bit of stagger fitment and it should fit. this is all guessing by pics, but thats how it looks to me |
02-12-2012, 05:33 PM | #699 | |
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02-13-2012, 08:22 AM | #700 |
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I was looking at a couple different things for my 97, rear is gunna be 18x10.5 +20 w 245 40. Front either 17x10 +20 235 45 or 18x9 +25 235 40. 20mm fenders for the front. From what ive read through here I'm thinking the rear is going to be no problem w a roll right? but which would be better for the front to clear coils? Thanks for your time.
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02-13-2012, 11:27 AM | #701 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Personally, I like 10js up front. Only thing is with +20, it wont clear most coilover. But depending on what you have up front, you could just need a few mm. On my current coilovers, absolute highest offset I can run with 10js to clear is +18. On my old Megan Racing, I had to space it down to +4. If you get a coilover that has slots on the top knuckle mounting hole, you can pull the slot out to give you the max amount of wheel to suspension clearance but itll give you some positive camber.
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02-13-2012, 11:36 AM | #702 | |
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Assuming I had to space it down to +\- 0 with 10j would I clear +20mm kouki fenders? Should I just go w the 9j +25? |
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02-13-2012, 05:14 PM | #704 |
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fwiw my 18x10 +20 rota's cleared my stance gr+ coils no problems in the front. 100% depends on the coil but like fliprayzin said, you shouldnt need much space if you do.
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02-13-2012, 07:35 PM | #705 |
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If your set on definitely no more than -3 then that would be a good thug to do, just make sure you have your ride height where you want it when you get the alignment because if you adjust the height later it will change the camber again. Lots of s14s running that size in the wheel figment thread maybe take a look an see what other people are running spec wise to make there's fit and go off that.
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02-13-2012, 09:48 PM | #709 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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What I'm curious about is how much spacers you guys are running to push those wheels out that far. My crap shoot of a guess is 9.5j +25 with 30mm spacers? Eyeballing it, doesnt look like regular 20mm wide fenders will be enough to run those...
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02-13-2012, 09:59 PM | #710 |
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lots and lots of front camber should squeeze those under 20s and allow you to turn...have fun though, seems a little aggressive, even for zilvia (what am i saying?!)
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02-13-2012, 11:10 PM | #714 |
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i dont think thats right, not calling you out on it, just my opinion. my 18x10 +20's dont stick out NEARLY that far on the front. granted your wheels stick out overall 20mm more by wheel design....my 10s dont even poke and that looks like its at LEAST an inch and a half out of the fender. and he wont flush out 50mm overs in the rear...if thats the sizing, he should do 30's and 0 camber with a 3mm slip on spacer
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02-14-2012, 12:03 AM | #717 |
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I took the pictures down, sorry. Once he throws them on I'll post them here. Hes not a big Zilvia guy but still, dont want to steal his thunder I guess. I dont know I feel bad.
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02-14-2012, 12:17 AM | #718 |
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well to post something of my own, no tires or not, whatever (that rule seems to have gone out the window anyways?). these will be fun to fit:
18x13 +6 weds kranze cerberus. those are 50mm fenders. will need to be bowed |
02-14-2012, 01:02 AM | #719 |
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ive actually got a serious question for those that can answer.
i understand the concepts of offset, face type, lip, barrel etc. but how is it, that a wheel can have a larger lip (say..6" or so) and not physically stick out further from the body than a wheel with a smaller lip? i may even be wrong and that might not be possible, but my weds up there ^^ for example. 5" lip. i can remove from the barrel to make them thinner, even an 18x10 but still have a 5" lip. it would be extremely low offset, 10" wide but still effectively sit EXACTLY the same as my 13s do currently. however on other wheels, such as works, i see a 6" lip and ive seen people fit them under 50mm overfenders without much issues/camber? my only guess is on a thinner wheel (relative..10" wide is by no means "thin") you can stretch a smaller tire and run less camber before teh tire comes close to the fender? i may be way off base but thats just a random thought i had, at midnight |
02-14-2012, 02:09 AM | #720 | |
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if the face is convex the lip could potentiallygo deeper than the mounting surface. |
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