Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Wake]

dont forget different color.

What do you guys think of buying a brand like that and re-welding them yourself (or professionally) and adding higher quality ends like QA1/Aurora?

Or is the quality of metal they use to begin with just plain inferior?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

dont forget different color.

What do you guys think of buying a brand like that and re-welding them yourself (or professionally) and adding higher quality ends like QA1/Aurora?

Or is the quality of metal they use to begin with just plain inferior?

Many people do actually do that, in fact on my car I did this on my FLCA, as per following Def's 'Budget Baller' mod for them. QA1 bearings inner/outer and all is well. Sure you can reweld them too, no doubt that can always help, but you rearely if ever see those welds breaking...not to say they couldn't though.


IIRC Jordan Innovations actually had all of the legwork sorted out and bearings in stock (or available) for most copy-cat arms...send him a PM to see if he still does that.

[slowvia]

Originally Posted by axiomatik

There are 3 OEM options. 180SX sideskirts flare down at each end. Silvia sideskirts are flat along the bottom (don't flare down). And Canadian sideskirts look like Silvia ones, but have an indention that runs along the length, ending a few inches before the rear wheel.

Awesome, thanks man! Now I just gotta decide which ones I like best...

[Wake]

Thanks C-murder

I appreciate your input.

And your sig. Well played sir.

[boost addict]

How do you see your likes?

[foxystyle]

K thank you soreballz, I'm gonna just buy the toe and ruca from Isis, reweld and call it a day until the new shop Max arms are here.

[soreballz]

Originally Posted by foxystyle

K thank you soreballz, I'm gonna just buy the toe and ruca from Isis, reweld and call it a day until the new shop Max arms are here.

The shitty welds are not the big issue. The main thing is the shitty rod ends, as stated by Codyace and WakeBHR.

[igreek]

Quick question guys.

Is it possible to pass emissions without an EGR for a KADE? When I got the motor from the previous owner, they hacked the egr pipe off, so I went ahead and removed everything else. With a new cat, my car passes everything except NOX, obviously.

My understanding is that the EGR recirculates exhaust gas, to pretty much lower combustion temps? Higher temps=more NOX, right?

If I messed with the timing and ran the motor rich, would that lower NOX enough to help me pass? Or does anyone know any other way? Thanks!

[GL Chrillz]

ok so i have the (upper?) harness off my sr, its the one with the spark plug and injectors and all that. im going to attempt a wire tuck here, and im just wondering which wires exactly do i need to extend. i stupidly didnt check while it was on the car. and do i need to add anything to this harness fuse wise or anything? or just cut and solder in more wire?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by foxystyle

K thank you soreballz, I'm gonna just buy the toe and ruca from Isis, reweld and call it a day until the new shop Max arms are here.

I personally don't so much difference between the two listed. If you're going to do the work, do it once. No reason you 'need' them today if you wait 2 weeks and get quality ones like SPL or Cusco

Originally Posted by soreballz

The shitty welds are not the big issue. The main thing is the shitty rod ends, as stated by Codyace and WakeBHR.

Agreed. As much as I hate to admit it, the CHinese at least through enough heat at things to have them stick. Pretty? No. Effective? Yes.

Bearing wise, they are such pieces of shit. Sticky, lack of articulation, poor finish, and one can not deny the material

Outer bearing
Godspeed Left, QA1 Right


Inner Rod End
QA1 Left, Godspeed Right

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

ok so i have the (upper?) harness off my sr, its the one with the spark plug and injectors and all that. im going to attempt a wire tuck here, and im just wondering which wires exactly do i need to extend. i stupidly didnt check while it was on the car. and do i need to add anything to this harness fuse wise or anything? or just cut and solder in more wire?

You don't need to extend anything on your wiring harness. The work here is minimal but you need to be careful. The only thing you'd need to do to make it cleaner is remove the AC wire, the MAF if your running a map setup, and thats it from what i remember... reloom everything with some better looking stuff and shrink wrap.

Word of advice: Make sure to zip tie everything after you remove the original loom/tape from beginning to end of harness. If you don't.. you'll be left with a mess that will be very difficult to reloom. i learned from experience.

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by HIGHFIVEBETA

You don't need to extend anything on your wiring harness. The work here is minimal but you need to be careful. The only thing you'd need to do to make it cleaner is remove the AC wire, the MAF if your running a map setup, and thats it from what i remember... reloom everything with some better looking stuff and shrink wrap.

Word of advice: Make sure to zip tie everything after you remove the original loom/tape from beginning to end of harness. If you don't.. you'll be left with a mess that will be very difficult to reloom. i learned from experience.

is there not still going to be a bunch of the wire inside the engine bay? i want to clear that up so its not there. or is the majority of doing that with the lower harness and fuse boxes? and is this a suitable loom to buy? Wirecare - Product Detail Page

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

is there not still going to be a bunch of the wire inside the engine bay? i want to clear that up so its not there. or is the majority of doing that with the lower harness and fuse boxes? and is this a suitable loom to buy? Wirecare - Product Detail Page

The only thing you can really do with the engine harness is minimal like I said. Oh and also relocate the ignitor and the wiper amp inside will help too.

Redoing the engine room harness and relocating the fuse box and battery inside will clean up your engine bay real nice.

Techflex is good stuff.

Do your research. Look for the wire tuck thread and the fusebox relocation thread. This is what helped me lots

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by HIGHFIVEBETA

The only thing you can really do with the engine harness is tuck it away. You'll need most of it.

Redoing the engine room harness and relocating the fuse box and battery inside will clean up your engine bay real nice.

so i shouldnt worry about cutting up any wires, and just worry about re looming it? i havent taken the other harness off yet so im not quite sure whats involved with relocating the fuse box and all that yet

[foxystyle]

@ codyace, then where can I buy these qa1 bearings? I can just replace those with the shit ones. Thanks for the input wake and sore. It'll be a while for me to get my full psm arms, until then I want to at least have the shit arms with better bearings.

[chiboy002]

are 350z sway bar end links the same as s13, spl wise?

i feel like since theyre adjustable they would work but idk... i need some sway bar end links that are decent

[Wake]

Is it safe to leave that plastic shielding under panel type shit off of the gas tank?

I pulled it off and I really dont give a fuck about putting it back on. But I will if it actually protects something

[codyace]

Originally Posted by foxystyle

@ codyace, then where can I buy these qa1 bearings? I can just replace those with the shit ones. Thanks for the input wake and sore. It'll be a while for me to get my full psm arms, until then I want to at least have the shit arms with better bearings.

the QA1 bearings from from QA1 itself, you can get other good bearings from places online (FK or Aurora etc). Again, PM JordanInnovations as he has all of the crossover stuff at last recolelction.

If not, so long as you find the thread pitch for the rod ends and can measure the spherical bearings, you can compare them to the stuff on QA1 or similar website. I personally do not know the conversions.

FWIW: You running the ISIS or whatever arms with quality bearings is going to be a better product that anything out there this side of SPL.

[zooopreme]

People complain about fitting aftermarket kits on to their cars, I've never had to deal with them because most of my buddies don't care for them.

Is trimming/sanding aftermarket aero yourself really that difficult?

[hellion240sx]

Originally Posted by zooopreme

People complain about fitting aftermarket kits on to their cars, I've never had to deal with them because most of my buddies don't care for them.

Is trimming/sanding aftermarket aero yourself really that difficult?

YES.

Question...
I have stock unmolested 97 fenders, Don't want to do any pulling or rolling. I am thinking of getting either 15x8 +0 225/50/15 or 225/60/15. Or 16x8 +0 with 225/50/16 I would like to have some meat in there. I like the look. I don't really like the rubber band tires. I know it's not 255 like others on here, But its all stock motor. No need for tires that wide.

I have tried searching in many other threads, max tire, this one, Wheel whore, fs, etc, but this info isn't available... Thanks.

[xeemersil80]

Hey guys i have been looking around for these fenders and their product number and name. I am sure there is someone out there who know what they are and who makes them. thanks fellow zilvians.
p2.jpg

[BOROSUN]

those are koguchi.

[Ilya]

Hey guys,

I converted my vert to a 5speed last summer. I used an OEM Exedy kit with the throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Everything ran smooth. I made a few 1200 miles journeys to school and such (17 hours non stop driving). Well over the summer, I drove another 2400 miles to san diego and back, on the way back it was non stop. My transmission is making noise now. I push the clutch in, downshift into a lower gear, and while the clutch is still depressed, thats when the noise happens. It sounds like some rotational noise which makes me believe its the throwout bearing. Is the noise is happening, I can feel viabraitions in the clutch pedal which is why I think its the throwout bearing again. As soon as I let off the clutch pedal, the noise goes away and the driveablity of the car is not affected. There are zero leaks from the transmission so I am positive no fluid drained out. (the transmission always is cleaned and is always dry everywhere when I do clean it)
Can anyone justify?

Thank you!

[muffler]

EDIT:figured it out

[axiomatik]

ilya - sounds like throwout bearing to me as well.

[YellowFox]

I've got a parasitic drain and I sourced it out to be in the power window/car alarm circuitry. Whenever I remove the fusible link the problem is gone. How can I fix this troublesome problem?

P.S. Whenever I reconnect the fusible link I hear a clicking sound on the driver side.

[daftphunk]

Sup guys.
Just got some kouki skirts in. I'm going to do a full paint/body work in 5 weeks or so but I want to throw these on now and I'll prob. rattle can em.

What's the best way to go about this? I've read and heard so many different things. They are OEM white and I'm looking to paint them red. So far what I gathered is the process should be something like: sand, primer, primer, base coat, base coat, clear. Should I be doing more sanding in between coats? And at what grit? And any wet sanding after?

Some friends told me to just get the scotch brite 3M scuff pads and that should be fine before primer, instead of sanding them all the way down, but some better input would be nice. Also I'm guessing since it's polyurethane (correct me if I am wrong) then I should use some adhesive promoter instead of primer?

[muffler]

what color is this? if u have a color code that would be awsome/

[pandaroo]

does anyone know of a small digital speedomeeter readout? i just want to have a big tach in my cluster with some way of still knowing how fast im going lol. i was thinking about getting a hud but i dont know how i would get it to work with my r154 as it uses a different signal. any help would be appreciated!

[Wake]

I dont remember where to find them but they make speedo conversion thingies for adapting different trannys and speedometers.