2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[Zerolift Autolab]

Fresh supply of JZ mount Kits in stock at Zerolift !

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by Minz

I ran into a few problems when installed my Xcessive Manufacturing engine brackets on the 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo model.
Firstly, the oil return(?) line came up too high and interfered with the bracket.
This was solved by cutting it free from the bracket and bending downwards, out of the way.
Secondly, the rear turbo brace was also interfering with the brackets, so this ended up just being removed.
There was also a modification made to the part that merges into the sump. It came with the motor so I have no idea what problem it was changed to address.


IN!
Haha had to use a blanket on the radiator support and gearbox because it's a fresh paint job and there is no chance that imma let it get ruined.

Fellow rhd jz swapper! Looks good man!

[BiG MiKE86]

...and the money pit begins... just bought a motor/trans (2jz/R154) from a local shop should be here next week! Im soo excited - build thread coming soon

[91ka24]

Finally drove the car today and everything seemed good except one thing, its barely boosting. Checked for vac leaks, couldn't find any. Also at idle my boost gauge just bounces rapidly between 10 and 20 vac. But revs fine. Anyone have any ideas?

[bullfrogg0]

sounds like boost leak to me

[bullfrogg0]

check all your couplers

[BadazzSr20]

ok guys i need help... i been running my car and its be fine it was over heating but rarely i got my ac working today and now its over heating only on hwy around town with ac nothing temps are perfect only on the hwy.. im thinking its the temp sensor cause its getting up to about 3 quarts of the way up and the car seems to be fine. its not steaming no sluggishness not the car seems fine. i would think if the car was overheating that much it would see something.

i check my water level its perfect im running a mishimoto rad stock thermostat and and a pusher 12" and flex-O-lite fans and stock 1jz temp sensor. if i don't use the ac it doesn't over heat. its just creeping with the ac on i had this same problem with my sr20 back in the day i put a s14 temp sensor in and it was perfect never over heated again.

im hoping this is the same problem. after driving the car all for a while i turn it off ill go back after 10 to 15mins and start the car and the temp gauge will be above the H on the gauge. then drops to half i know everyone is saying run a after market gauge but im trying to stay with a clean sleeper i don't want gauges everywhere its not that kinda car. im running stock twins still too i know that makes the car run hot but im not sure yet why isn't over heating im thinking about taking out the thermostat and seeing if that stops the over heating problem with ac on....

so my question is what sensor you all running 1jz or the s14?

and the main question is can the s14 screw right into the 1jz stock spot?

is the tread pitch the same for both sensors?

[1quk240]

I just picked up my motor. Its a 2jz-ge vvt-i. I'm going to be using a 350z trans. Im currently parting out my sr20.

I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for during my install/swap?

[JDM SPUG]

How do you getthe 350z tranny to work with the 2J?

[1quk240]

Originally Posted by JDM SPUG

How do you getthe 350z tranny to work with the 2J?

Someone makes an adapter plate to mate the trans/block together. Its just a matter of figuring out which clutch/flywheel combo work.

[JDM SPUG]

Originally Posted by 1quk240

Someone makes an adapter plate to mate the trans/block together. Its just a matter of figuring out which clutch/flywheel combo work.

Sounds legit. Lol

[kevinintegra]

For those of you running stock twins, specifically the 1jz twins, how are you dealing with boost spike/overboosting? It seems like most of us who would put the 1j in their 240 would run a 3in exhaust and a intercooler kit of some sort. From what i have read on different lexus/supra forums it seems like putting a intercooler kit and larger exhaust on a stock 1jz causes it to up the boost and the stock turbos really don't like boost levels much more than 13psi. Has anyone ran into issues with the stock twins overboosting or getting boost spikes? If you have then what have you done to resolve this situation?
I'm all for turning up the boost on the stock turbos, I personally want to do this, but I don't want to do it to the point where they are damaged or prematurely fail.

[Minz]

What did you guys do (if you did) to keep A/C?
My 1J unfortunately, or fortunately depending who you are, came with A/C already removed. But I'm a fan of creature comforts and with summer coming up I'm not looking forward to burning my balls off.

Also, heater pipes? Which one is inlet/outlet for motor and firewall.

[Mister.E]

i plan to keep A/C with my 1J setup. If you are dropping it into an S14 you are going to need a compressor that uses R134a because the 1JZ-GTE compressor is R12. I'm still trying to figure out if a compressor off of a 2J will bolt up to the 1J because that sure would make things a hell of a lot easier. All you would need to do at that point is have some lines made and you are done.

[waste_of_space]

Originally Posted by kevinintegra

For those of you running stock twins, specifically the 1jz twins, how are you dealing with boost spike/overboosting? It seems like most of us who would put the 1j in their 240 would run a 3in exhaust and a intercooler kit of some sort. From what i have read on different lexus/supra forums it seems like putting a intercooler kit and larger exhaust on a stock 1jz causes it to up the boost and the stock turbos really don't like boost levels much more than 13psi. Has anyone ran into issues with the stock twins overboosting or getting boost spikes? If you have then what have you done to resolve this situation?
I'm all for turning up the boost on the stock turbos, I personally want to do this, but I don't want to do it to the point where they are damaged or prematurely fail.

I don't think 1j's had that overboost problem, I read a lot about it with 2j's though, and with my 2j running on an open 3 inch downpipe, my boost was still relatively low (though I'm running my twins in parallel and not sequential like it normally is) I eventually built more exhaust and now my exhaust goes to about the rear seats (I have an s13 coupe) but still overboosting wasn't an issue, and I had to use a boost controller to get 16 psi (with no boost controller and open downpipe I was only getting about 12 psi in lower gears, and it went up to 14 in 3rd)

[kevinintegra]

Well that is reassuring, thanks man!
Anyone else have experience with that too?

[Redline_GT]

An unrestricted exhaust system on a 1jz causes over boost. It's true and has been discussed a lot at other supra forums. The main reason it's a concern other than the fact you cannot control how much it over boosts, that the jdm turbos die/explode/start hearing a noticeable whine. Same holds true for the jdm turbos on a 2jz. Some have bandaided the impending doom by installing a smaller diameter restrictor plate/gasket after the downpipe. That's what I have gathered about jdm JZs so far. Basically the ceramic components in the jdm turbos fail. Anyone please chime in.

P.S. my brother has a 1jz and that kid changed his stock turbo 3 times before he found the hks twins unit. Very happy kid now.
Sent through mobile device

[kevinintegra]

^ Thats exactly what I have been reading that concerns me. From what I understand; the best thing to do short of having smaller exhaust is to put in a restrictor plate and turn up the boost via a boost controller.

[Redline_GT]

Unless you have taken care of the boost cut safety trigger, which kicks in around 1 bar or a little less than that, that boost controller won't be of that much good to you. People running restrictors usually are doing that because of a combination of reasons, like being fedup of constantly hitting boost cut which gets annoying very fast, so the need to be able to hold that boost consistently becomes a requirement and then there's the reason to keep the turbos from burning a hole in your wallet when they fail. From what I've seen, a boost controller doesn't help since the old wastegate actuators start opening up no matter how hard the boost controller tries to control it.

Sent through mobile device

[Zerolift Autolab]

Originally Posted by kevinintegra

^ Thats exactly what I have been reading that concerns me. From what I understand; the best thing to do short of having smaller exhaust is to put in a restrictor plate and turn up the boost via a boost controller.

This is a problem on a factory 2jzgte / 1jzgte that removes the catalytic converter that is in the oem downpipe.
You have to either run an electronic boost controller to regulate the pressure.
The free flow 3" downpipes and intercooler kits are far less restrictive than the oem part and side mount kit. Without ECU tuning they will spike and overboost and break turbos. Easy solution is a quality boost controller.

[Mister.E]

best solution is to ditch those shitty ceramic blade turbos and just go with a single setup.

[SeclusiveGTRS]

hey guys. I did a 2jzge swap into an s13, and I'm having a major issue with it not being able to rev. When I attempt to rev it, it backfires and misses. I've replaced the MAF, distributor, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I've replaced the fuel pump with a new one from a MK3 supra, and I cleaned the throttle body, including the EGR (Incase it was clogged) and after all this I still have the same issue. The last thing I'm gonna do, is test the 02 sensors, after that I'm all out of ideas. It's been three weeks since I did this swap and I'm getting frustrated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance. And BTW, when I jump terminals TE1 and E1 on my diagnostic port to set my timing, it doesn't do anything. I've also opened up my ecu to see if anything was burnt inside, and it checked out fine. Thanks again.

[kevinintegra]

Originally Posted by Zerolift Autolab

This is a problem on a factory 2jzgte / 1jzgte that removes the catalytic converter that is in the oem downpipe.
You have to either run an electronic boost controller to regulate the pressure.
The free flow 3" downpipes and intercooler kits are far less restrictive than the oem part and side mount kit. Without ECU tuning they will spike and overboost and break turbos. Easy solution is a quality boost controller.

wait, a ebc will "regulate" the boost? like when it starts to exceed say the 10psi I set it to then it will turn it down? That may be exactly what I need then!

[kevinintegra]

Originally Posted by SeclusiveGTRS

hey guys. I did a 2jzge swap into an s13, and I'm having a major issue with it not being able to rev. When I attempt to rev it, it backfires and misses. I've replaced the MAF, distributor, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I've replaced the fuel pump with a new one from a MK3 supra, and I cleaned the throttle body, including the EGR (Incase it was clogged) and after all this I still have the same issue. The last thing I'm gonna do, is test the 02 sensors, after that I'm all out of ideas. It's been three weeks since I did this swap and I'm getting frustrated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance. And BTW, when I jump terminals TE1 and E1 on my diagnostic port to set my timing, it doesn't do anything. I've also opened up my ecu to see if anything was burnt inside, and it checked out fine. Thanks again.

its it obdII?

[SeclusiveGTRS]

I think its OB2 because the motorset came from a 96 sc300.

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by BadazzSr20

ok guys i need help... i been running my car and its be fine it was over heating but rarely i got my ac working today and now its over heating only on hwy around town with ac nothing temps are perfect only on the hwy.. im thinking its the temp sensor cause its getting up to about 3 quarts of the way up and the car seems to be fine. its not steaming no sluggishness not the car seems fine. i would think if the car was overheating that much it would see something.

Only thing I can think of is to make sure your coolant system is properly bled. My 2jz cooling system consist of:
- Mishimoto Rad (ka24de)
- Mishimoto Fan Shroud (ka24de)
- Mishimoto Thermostat (make sure you install the thermo the correct way)
- Pentifrost Coolant (red, you will have problems if you dont use the appropriate red coolant)

My car NEVER overheated(s). I can even drive with the fans disconnected and not begin to overheat.

[kevinintegra]

Originally Posted by SeclusiveGTRS

I think its OB2 because the motorset came from a 96 sc300.

well if it is then it's probably in limp mode, even if its obd1 I still think its in limp mode, and the obd2 2j's go into limp mode for all sorts of reasons, best i can say is check your wiring.

[cody]

need some help if anyone has ideas!!

JDM Aristo 2jz. Swapped in a 95 s14 240sx. Stock fuel, and ECU. Single turbo.

Symptoms: Engine cranks over perfectly fine, but I am getting no spark, and no fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump runs and I have fuel making it to the rail but it seems the injectors are not pulsing.

-Timing is dead on, compression in spec.

- I have 12 volts at the coil pack positive with key on accessory but no spark.

-I have voltage to the ignitor with key on accessory, and the ignitor is grounded.

-I have voltage to the injectors with key on accessory, but they obviously aren't pulsing.

-I checked the resistance of the Crank sensor, cam sensors, and coils and they are all in spec per the TSRM.

- Engine ground is 0 gauge welding cable from block directly to bare metal on frame, I also have a ground from intake to fire wall.

-Checked every fuse in the car twice, and checked both of the engine harness grounds that go to the underside of the intake, all is good.

-I checked to see if I am getting voltage to all the sensors with the key on accessory, and I am not. Not sure if I am supposed to be or not.

Its worth noting that I had this same exact setup, (harness, ECU, engine etc.) In a different 95 240sx about 2 months ago and it ran flawless. I didn't change a single thing. Just pulled the engine and put it in this one. ECU is plugged in tight with no broken wires that I see.

Right now I'm leaning towards a bad ignitor, or ECU. But I am overall lost, and confused at this point, Im still new to electrical work. Thanks for any help!!

[Flicktitty]

I would think the ECU might not be firing the injectors or giving the proper voltage to coilpacks, i have a stock aristo ECU if you need one, you can pay pal me $75. If it works and you keep it i keep the money, if it doesn't work. send it back i'll refund money except shipping. or since your not too far you can pick it up and i'll hold the money.

[cody]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

I would think the ECU might not be firing the injectors or giving the proper voltage to coilpacks, i have a stock aristo ECU if you need one, you can pay pal me $75. If it works and you keep it i keep the money, if it doesn't work. send it back i'll refund money except shipping. or since your not too far you can pick it up and i'll hold the money.

Thats kind of what I was thinking. Is there a way to test the ECU or ignitor? It seems weird that it would go bad just from sitting for like 2 months when it worked great before. Thanks for the offer, I will probably take you up on that. Where are you located?