Mannykiller's Fd Street/Drift build

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by coty_garcia

awwwwww yisssssssssssss

cant wait to hear the wolf

Me either!!!

Originally Posted by ka-titties

everything looks awesome man!

Thanks Brotha!!

[Mannykiller]

Update: "On the Grind."


While I wait for a few key parts to show up, I got a whole lot done on some smaller parts of the big puzzle.

I ended up going with one of the new Radium Engineering 10 Micron Stainless Steel Mesh Filters with the Heat Sink Mount as well. This thing is SICK! Pure quality and precision machining! Solid machined labels into the filter so that there's no way to mix up the Direction of Flow In/Out. I also got my New EGT sensors in. Pretty trick too!...2 Stroke Specific 1/8 NPT Closed Tip (for better Longevity) K-Type EGT Sensors!! Pumped on these!!
New Parts!!




Then I was able to roughly Visualize exactly how I wanted to lay the whole set up out. I feel like it's important to do some pre-brain storming so that you have an idea of what you may want it to look like... But sometimes things change when you get all the parts. So I ran through a couple different set ups and figured I liked this lay-out the best..


Since I had everything apart.. I decided to get rid of all my block off plates and make sure I don't have to deal with any potential leaks again. Had Dan at Rad Industries Weld up the Upper Intake Manifold Vac Ports. You know you got a good one when they don't just pull out of the Alum... This took me the better part of an hour to remove all of them. Even used a Torch!

Dan Welding up the Vac Ports


Off topic a bit.... It seems like no matter how well I try to plan things... It's almost impossible to order ALL AN fittings at once and come away with the everything fitting perfect. Had to make a couple changes with my list... And one of these had to be ordered as well: 180 degree XRP PTFE Hose end... Really nice quality too!

Made some dinner

.... and woke up nice and early to get a head start on coating some Engine Parts with High Temp Ceramic Coating. I've always been really interested in how this stuff is going to hold up. Although I'm not going to put it on anything exhaust related...the LIM will at least...be very close to one of the hottest parts of the set up.

Taping everything up takes time!... I usually wait till later on at night when I have to respect our neighbors and be quiet to do the noiseless stuff!

I got a new Shop hand.... His name is Turbo, he literally loves sitting right there for hours on end!


Sprayed the parts with the Exhaust Coating and got started with the install of the new fuel system.
All AN-8 Lines to and from the rail. This meant going through the Factory Sheet metal with some Bulk-head AN Fittings. Got these from Summit Racing. Measured twice..and cut once!

Turned out pretty good! But finding the correct spacing so that I could still fasten them both down despite the other being installed...and Planning for the future Fire-partition took a lot of time. Either the fittings were too close...or they were too close to the frame rail under the car. Finding the correct placement was a little more time consuming than I was hoping..but it's all part of the process.

Made some more Fuel lines and was able to cover them in PTP Turbo Blankets Fire Sleeve
This stuff works Great and is just as high quality as all their other products. It also installs VERY well! Easier than the old stuff.



Then I relized I didn't like where the new fuel set up was sitting.

More Updates in the morning... I'm passing out as I type this.

[Mannykiller]

Continued:

Went to a place in Orange that has a TON of industrial Metal! Check it!
Picked up some 1/8" Alum Sheet..

And Threw all the Ceramic painted Accessories in the Oven for a 3 part process. Time consuming... and tedius...but FAR cheaper than dropping the parts off to get Ceramic Coated. I Did the Throttle Body, Lower Intake Manifold, Upper Intake Manifold and Greddy Elbow

More on that later....

I made an initial Mock up of where I wanted my Fuel Surge Set up Plate to sit



Takes some time to cut measure, and de burr...


Then the mocking of mounting the components..and drilling mount holes...


I had to cut off a lot of welded studs in the rear Compartment to have an un-hindered area to mount the Plate. There are a lot of sheet metal reinforcements in the rear that are there for strength and rigidity....that make mounting something flat...really difficult. It took a while to get the plate to sit Flat.


Progress!!

Flex Fuel Sensor Mounted!



Not sure If I like the next piece... But I made it because the mount plate looked a little bit lonely there in the back. This one kind of tied it all together.. More decorative...but I guess I could say it's a heat barrier haha.
Rough Cut Mock


More Updates Soon!!

Should be almost complete Tonight!

[zwzweston]

This car literally gets 100% cooler every time I check the thread.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[Mannykiller]

Update: "The tedius Lexan Devil"


Despite the title of this log.... I've actually made really good progress on the Fuel system. I'm only waiting on my revised CJ-Motorsports dual Pump Hanger, My Clutch....and one more ORB-8 to AN-8 Union. But dear god I hope I never have to fit a piece of lexan to partition anything ever again. There are a few things that test me and the tediusness of pulling the lexan in and out of the car over and over....and over almost put me over. Must've done it over 50 times to make sure it was right and not hitting anything. Things like making sure it clears the rear hatch shocks all the way...and fits the contour of the rear window.. take a lot time. At first I started with a Template...but after a few attemps...and realizing that it wasn't rigid enough... I ended up using the lexan itself.

Anyways on the Fuel system first...

Cleaned up the Cuts on the decorative plate and here are the finished plates with all Mount holes drilled. Don't mind all the fingerprints. This was a bit tedius as well...


Cleaned all the fingerprints off the alum and I just had to..... Add some good ol Gang Bustin Wolf Mojo to the mix...HAH!!


I was hoping my CJ-M hanger would come yesterday but I mis read the tracking. It should be here tomorrow, then I can finish up the 2 Pump Lines... and the return. It'll be nice to see it all Finished!!


So Because there is now an external Surge Tank in the Cabin of the car. And our Cars don't have dedicated cabins that are separated from the trunk space... In Most Pro-Am Series....you have to have a Fire-Barrier that seals the fuel system off from the main cabin of the car. You can use a few different Materials. But I've seen everything from Steel Sheet, Alum Sheet, Lexan and even carbon. I chose to go with a sheet of Lexan. I didn't go with the hardened "Scratch Proof" stuff...but the price difference was significant...nearly 60 bucks for the 2. I figured I might end up Putting some Window Tint on it to try and shade the cockpit off from the sun a little. ....and that should help with scratches etc.

So heres what I started with

This was my Template I made from all of my measurements of the area I would be fitting the Lexan sheet. I measured 3 or 4 times before making cuts and actually left 1/4" More all the way around just to make sure I didn't go too small.


I cut that piece straight down the middle and purchased a Giant Sheet of lexan for about 36 bucks.
Traced my Paper Template on to the Lexan and went to cut it out. I used my Skill Saw but wasn't paying attention to the blade and got about 7"in when I cracked the Lexan through my "needed" area. Luckily I was only 7" in... So I flipped my Giant Template and was able to avoid the crack. Put my skill saw back and decided to play it safe and use my Angle Grinder. I always joke with people and tell them I Built my whole car with an angle grinder and Channel Locks LOL. But the Angle grinder worked much better, but it made a HUGE mess of Lexan sand Everywhere. So I did everything out in the driveway.
Got it all cut out And decided to to give it the initial Test fit.

Which is where it got interesting... I can't say whether or not I would have left the 1/4" extra lexan around the whole template again...if I were or had to be forced to do this ever again. on one hand...i'm happy I did it because it came out well. On the other hand... I'm not joking when I say that this must've taken me over 6 Hours. So... The lexan sheet may have only cost me 36 Bucks...but I'll sell the paper template for $150 Bucks to whoever would love to trace it onto a piece of lexan HaHaHa. Jkjk
Progress

And Although it doesn't look much different. This is where I left off.... one thing I didn't want was for the sheet to be rattling and vibrating un-controllably the whole time the car is on. So I made the sheet fit straight across on the bottom...but the top will have Juuuuust enough Bend in it to bow the sheet in towards the cabin...just slightly enough to add some strength and rigidity. Then when I go to mount it..I can make the Mounts hold that position. This should cut down on the annoying Vibrating flimsly look I'm trying to avoid.

I had to stop after this for a mental break. I'll make the Alum Mounts tomorrow. I'm thinking Nut-serts for sure!!

....okay okay I had to stop with the lexan..but I just moved in the garage and started putting all my accessories back together.
After Baking the High Temp Ceramic Paint 3 times in raising temps..... The stuff is actually hard enough that my nail doesn't pull anything away when I scrape at it! I've always wanted to go White..but I didn't want it to come out cheezy.... But I think it came out pretty cool so far!
Peripheral Port Lower Intake Manifold, I.D.1300's and Rail


Borg Warner EFR9174...Comp Cover Coated and Baked!


Lastly Have you guys ever heard of Epic Colorz Paint?

And what do you think of this color? =-).....


More Updates soon!

Stay Tuned!!


#ThisIsTheWolf

[DJPimpFlex]

Your gold tape budget must be impressive. Looking good as usual!

[coty_garcia]

can I ride along at rd 1 on sunday like during practice or what are the rules for that through top drift?

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

Your gold tape budget must be impressive. Looking good as usual!

hahaha. Thanks Brotha!

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by coty_garcia

can I ride along at rd 1 on sunday like during practice or what are the rules for that through top drift?

Thats a good question. I'm not sure what the rules are. But Practice Sat before the Competition/qualifying day would probably be much better. Sometimes it gets hard to focus with everything going on. But Come talk to me!

[Mannykiller]

Update:


PROGRESS!!

Picking up where I left off...

Once I was able to get the Lexan where I wanted it. It was time to start thinking about how I was going to mount it. In my head....I had this idea that I was going to make it as sturdy as possible...so I tried to replicate most of the sliding windows I saw in houses. Immediately thought about using double sided tape...just without removing the adhesive cover...between the lexan and the metal mounts. But when I was at the Hardware store... I came across this ultra thin stuff that was meant to do what I wanted... and it was really cheap!!
Check it out!

Purchased this L bracketed Alum stock..measured it and cut to length.

Used 2 rows of this tape..leaving a gap in the middle.....not just because it was thin..but also so I didn't need to worry about picking holes in it while pushing the mount bolts through (would've pushed it off the alum and made it hard to line up.


Used some Padded c-clamps to hold everything in place while measured then drilled holes.
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscty6pzm5.jpg

Pushed the bolts through...fastened the hardware and Whaaalahhh!!


Test Fit Number gazillion


Pulled my Surge mount plate out so I could focus on the Lexan Fire Barrier


Used some Tape to position the top end of the Lexan... Although the mount on the bottom is sturdy.. I wanted to make sure vibration was in check.. So I fabbed up this little straight bracket out of some left over stock I had laying around from my ducting skeleton.
From the Bottom

From the top


Used my trusty Dremel to put a hole in the Lexan where it mounted up top. This stuff cracks fairly easy.. So i wanted to make sure I didn't get any cracks.....especially this far into it.

Ayooooo!!!!!

Then I used some Extra Door Molding to seal the top edge of the Lexan. This way there was a nice solid seal when the Rear Hatch Closes.
BTW to get the shape of the rear glass... Juuuust right for the lexan. It was as tedious a job as Ive ever done. Definitely tested my patience.
And WhaaaLahhh!!! Finished!!


Finished!!! I really Like it!!. Came out great! I don't know if anyone is interested.. But I'm willing to sell the Template of the Lexan Glass for $40 Bucks shipped!! All Monies earned will be going to my Tire fund this year haha!!

sorry for the crap pic


Went back into the garage to look at the set up again... Looks awesome through the Glass!!
You can't even see the Lexan. .....well right now you can't. I might put some Window Tint on it to keep it clear and prevent it front getting All Scratched up.

A little Youtube Video I made of the Process!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gEG2t_aYIw

[Mannykiller]

Monster Post Continued:

Came across this photo online.... This was ASB last year. Man she took a beating. I've got a lot of work to do to make her look good again!!



I Also got quite a few parts in!! The Masterpiece showed up.... John Gleasmans Billit Series 321 EFR Manifold.. Freshly Coated Borg Warner 9174 Comp Cover... Speed Sensor Installed....Dual Closed tip Two Stroke Specific EGT Probes, and Full Function Engineering EMAP Canister... Geese just gotta Love New Parts!! Gets me everytime!

Inconel Hardware!!! I could stare at this picture all day long. Borg Warner 1.45 A/R Turbine Housing!


Due to my budget this year...I decided to purchase replacement parts for my current Clutch... I could have gone with the ACT...and I really like the guys there... but At this point... I know this clutch works with my driving style.. and the replacement parts were a little more forgiving budget wise than the act. Hopefully When I move to a new Car/Driveline set up..I can go with something a little more heavy duty.
Exedy Lightweight Flywheel and spare disc Ring. My old one was sooo warped we couldn't get the thick vented Intermediate plate off without using a mallet.


Massive thanks and eternally grateful to NGK for giving me a chance to represent them! This is truly a dream!! I love Spark Plugs. NGK R7420 10's leading 10.5 Trailing! #NGKALLDAY


Check this Bad Ass Pic out! Here is Abels Fd Rx7 Drag Car Way back in the day... "Pro Import"...and check out the sick little round sticker sitting closer to the rear of his wheel! Like Mentor Like Padowan haha. #NGKALLDAY!!!!!


Also got in my New Revised CJ-Motorsports Dual Pump Hanger. I chose to go with (2) Walbro E85 400's. These Pumps would draw less than my beloved Bosch grunts. But they also won't need to work as hard either. THey'll be sitting nice and comfy down in the bottom of this piece of art. CJ-M really did a good job on this piece. The Revised unit...seems to weigh at least a third lighter than the older unit. The Revised unit is also a bit easier to put together... has some good looking CNC work on it and ....is over-all Thinner. Check it out!!

Put my pumps in place and Wired it up!


Converted to all AN-8 Lines!!



Also.....Just so everyone knows.. I read somewhere on the forum that people thought the CJ-M hanger had the pumps sitting too low in the tank. Well I Measured... From the Bottom of the FLAT plastic in the OEM tank.. Not including the pump pick up indent that actually sinks lower than the rest of the pan.. It Measures 11.25" The CJ-Motorsports Hanger puts the pumps over at 11.35... So there is a tad over 1/4" of void space below the walbro Fuel pump sock pick-up. Perfect!! Good work on them for paying attention to important Details!
Check it:



When you look inside the tank.. all the stock baffle plates kind of block off any place to put a good return. I wanted to put my return away from the Plastic Sump bucket. I was able to angle and rotate my return back pointing to the rear center of the tail light.... Inside the tank. This is the only area away from the plastic sump bucket that doesn't have baffle plates around it. It was a little hard to position correctly. But I got it eventually!


Mocked it up and Made my Lines!


And Finally Finished!

Here is my final Set up!!

Feed:
(2) Walbro E85 400's In tank on the CJ-Motorsports Dual Pump Hanger
Only one of these will run at a time (lift Pump, the other is a back up)
Feeding a 13 Micron Stainless Mesh E85 Safe Radium Fuel Filter with Heat Sink Bracket
Feeding the Radium Surge tank
(2) Bosch 044's handling all the hard Grunt work... Pulling from the Radium Surge Tank
Pushing through the Radium Pump Manifold..
Directly to the Earls 10 Micron E85 Stainless Mesh Fuel Filter
Through the 90 Degree Bulkhead fitting to the engine Bay

Return:

Turbosmart FPR2000
returning from Engine bay through Bulkhead to
Radium Surge Tank Return Port
To overflow on Radium Surge Tank
out of surge to
Continental/GM Flex Fuel Sensor
out of Flex fuel sensor to
CJ-Motorsports Return Port on Bulkhead
To OE tank

[ehhhregartless]

So impressive. This is the best build in North America at least if not the western hemisphere.

[wolfpack]

Cool build! Keep up the good work!

[ka-titties]

I'm in love with that fuel setup <3

[Mannykiller]

^^^^^^

Thanks for the support guys!!!

[Mannykiller]

Update: "Rise and Grind"


Jams: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAZ6Wg5lf1Q

Get up early!!! Get Motivated!! Get work done! No one else is going to order your parts, no one else is going to shoot e-mails out, no one else is going to plan your budget, no one else is going to make sure parts arrive on time...or make sure they are correct when they come in, or install them! But the cool thing is that we can all do these things on our own! I'm sure there will be a point when it's not going to work. But for where I'm at.... That is what I do!!

After finishing up the fuel system.. I went to take my fresh fire wall out and BAM Disaster struck.

Cracked the shit out of it...




This sucked. But I looked at where it cracked and it was the only small corner that I hadn't used my dremel on. So it was a sharp edge... On top of that, it had a little bit of pressure on it because it was touching the Passenger side Strut Mount. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way! Soooo Off to Home Depot I went. Grabbed another sheet and headed up to the cashier.... But after they rung it up It came up much cheaper than The last Sheet I had purchased. The guy at the register assured me it was the right one.. But I had just purchased this exact same item days before. So I asked him politely to check. He just looked at me and gave me some "Get out of here, I don't feel like dealing with this right now" answer... So I went back and was looking at the Sheets. Well The label for my sheet was wrong. What I thought was Lexan.. was actually "Acrylic." Lexan is a bit more expensive... but the sheet that I had cracked was charged as Lexan... Not the cheaper Acrylic. Luckily the guy who had pointed me in the direction of the sheets days before was working... So I approached him and told him what had happened... and he said "Oh man....no worries, that happens all the time." In my head I was like... "what?"...as if it's ok to over charge people all the time? haha. But Whatever.. He ended up taking care of me and giving me the real "Lexan" Sheet that was wayyy larger.. for only 73 Bucks! Because normally it's about $103. Phewwww!!! Anyways.. I went home.. used the broken glass as a template and kept it in case I need to make another one ever.



RE-making the REAL Lexan Fire wall haha








Then I took the Lexan to a local window Tint place. I wanted to get the Lexan Tinted so that it would be protected from scratches..because this stuff scratches very easily. .. The Guy wouldn't tint it for me.. but he also wouldn't necessarily tell me why. I kept asking prodding questions but he wasn't being very helpful. Things weren't really going my way that day. But anyways... I finally just asked him to sell me some and I'd do it on my own. I paid 20 bucks.. he cut two sheets for me and I was on my way.

Putting the Tint on... Took my time here.. and it actually came out pretty damn good.


Check it


Then Disaster again.... I don't know if there is a compatibility issue with Lexan and the type of Tint I was using. But After I was finished... I used 4 pieces of tape to secure the tint for a day. Because they always say your not supposed to touch it for a day or so. The next day.. I go check on the tint.. and it had come off 100%. The only thing holding it in place was the electrical tape. LAAAMEEE!! THINGS WEREN'T GOING MY WAY. I felt like going and asking the guy if the stuff was compatible. But it wouldn't do anything but waste more time..and plus.. I don't necessarily like working with people who aren't helpful. It may or may not have been compatible with Lexan...but I wasted 20 bucks and about 4 Hours after driving around, buying it, cutting it carefully, securing it etc.. All down the drain. ....except Knowledge... that may be worth more than actually having the piece tinted.

Anyways... Threw the tint in the trash and decided to install it and deal with it getting scratched eventually.

Put on a Radium Engineering, CJ-Motorsports and PTP Turbo Blankets stickers...and Installed the Lexan. Made sure to trim the 1/8" edge that was touching the strut tower and also rounded all edges with my dremel.

I also forgot to add... While I had the tint on the Lexan "Curing" overnight.. I moved my flex fuel wiring from the engine bay.....all the way to the back of the car. This took me about 2 hours because I wanted to make sure I routed it nicely through the dash.. and into the loom that was housing the rest of the wires that ran to the back of the car. I also put an additional relay in for the Walbro E85 pump on the CJ-Motorsports Hanger, This pump will be on a 20A Fuse. Both Bosch 044's are on their own Individual Relays as well, but they're fused with a 30A. Anyways! Check it!

FINALLY FINISHED!


Added this little radium sticker to the ugly Flex Fuel Sensor. and had to use some extra large heat shrink to hide the ugly puke colored pinkish orange connector hahaha

And Last Full Shot!



Wired up the Pump Connector for the CJ-Motorsports Dual Pump hanger. So this is how I did it. Both Walbro's are connected and ready to "Work." All they need is Power and Ground. Both are Connected and fully "Pinned," to the CJ-Motorsports bulkhead. But only one of the pumps will ever be working. The other one will be on Stand By. I thought about putting it on a switch. But I didn't really feel like running yet another Relay, and wiring all of that up. Plus, it's an easy job to supply the surge tank with fuel. The Bosch 044's will be doing the Grunt work. But I hate opening up the OE fuel tank..It's a pain. So In the case that the in tank pump isn't working. I can simply un-plug the additional 2-pin power and ground... Plug in the other Pumps power and ground... and it'll be as simple as that. But thats only if the "In tank walbro Pump #1" fails. Otherwise.... I may turn on the other pump here or there...just to make sure it works once every few months but it may spend it's life doing nothing. Better safe than sorry IMO, ....especially at the track.

Here's the Dual Pump Harness I made with Left over 2-pin Connectors I had. The big light grey/white connectors is supplied with pins from CJ-Motorsports. It comes with the Hanger!



Spent all yesterday Tidying up a bunch of loose ends.

Installed the new EGT sensors from "The Sensor Connection." Here's the link to the sensors I got

http://thesensorconnection.com/categ...robes/2-stroke

Installed my New Innovate Motorsports MTX-L Wideband

Re-Routed a lot of Wiring that had been a little neglected over the last season.

Took a pic of the rear hatch....looking through the glass into the rear compartment..
...because I like the pic hah


Sat in my drivers seat and realized that there was a little bit of "Slop" in my Hydro E-brake Handle and Wilwood master cyl... So I pulled it apart and Re-Shimmed it with brass Washers. I was going to use steel..but figured the Handle is Alum..and I didn't want the steel to eat away at the Alum...so brass should be soft enough to give way first...
Felt good to have it nice and clean though


Got another Care Package from Redline Synthetic Oils!!!

And this should be it guys!!! No more BS Castor sludge in my tank, or in my Engine Ever again!
Talking to the Owner and Lead Tech on the Phone about our issues with previous Pre-Mixes...Straight from the Owner and Lead Tech at Redline Synthetic Oils.... This stuff won't leave Residual crap in the fuel tank, Lines, or oil systems.


I finally got some time to put together my New parts onto my Existing Exedy Cerametallic Twin Disc Clutch. The Intermediate plate was soo warped!!!! Wouldn't even fit on the flywheel Ring
But check out the difference from a new Disc to an Old one!!



It's always nice to see new parts!!


But it doesn't mean that makes it any easier to pay for LOL


Drift Lyfe


And I finished up ithis morning running New AN-8 PTFE Fuel Hose to the Bulkhead Fittings. I didn't want to run the fuel lines in the factory Location under the car... so I moved them over to run parallel to the Transmission Tunnel. This way if anything ever scrapes alongside the bottom of the car..I won't be relying on luck, to whether or not they'll get hit. This keeps them protected much better.
Bulkhead


In, under and Parallel alongside the trans tunnel


Behind one of the drivers side Stock Heat Shields


And that brings me just about current to where I'm at right now. Literally just got some PTFE Heat Shrink, that I'll be putting on the Posi/Neg wires Inside my Fuel tank...and taking off the Raychem DR-25 because it's not Compatible to be submerged in E85.

Stay Tuned for more updates soon!!

Thanks guys!!

#Thisisthewolf

[Ronald_Mcdonald]

Always the best updates, man!

The refresh is coming along great, and I love seeing how much thought and time you put into all of the details. Keep it up.

[Mannykiller]

Update: "Unavoidable Circumstances"


Well I'm sure some of you guys have been wondering why I havn't gotten to the engine. Well it is a bit of a touchy subject. But the engine has been apart for about 3 Months now. We dropped off my housings at the machinist the same week. Although I didn't know the guy, he's been very reliable and a perfectionist for Abel for over 15 Years. Well, I was driving on a parts run one evening when I got a call from Abel. He sounded really sad and told me he had some really bad news. His long time family friend and machinist had passed away a couple nights before that. It was an out of the blue sort of thing and it came as a shock to a lot of his family and friends. I had only ever met him once but he seemed like a really good guy, with a perfectionists skill, hard working and very reliable. Sad to see someone pass. And my thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.
We sat on it for a few days and due to respect, it was another week before we contacted them to try and get my housings back from the shop. Well that was un-successful and it fast turned into a nightmare of a situation. Getting my housings back took nearly this entire time. Meanwhile, the rest of the engine is sitting and waiting to be assembled, and Round one is this weekend March 18-19th. We finally got the housings back Thursday morning. Thankfully work hadn't been done to them. But that left us with finding a new Machinist who was capable of doing a pretty precise job. luckily Abel had that figured out and sorted by the time we got the housings back, so we were able to drop the housings off at the new machinist on Saturday. But due to the time constraints and the fact that there is still work to be done with the new set up... I'm making the call, and sadly I won't be making round 1 with the Wolf. It's a HUGE blow to me, and I've been stressed out more than any other time in my life. But sometime's you can't plan for certain things. And that threshold can only cover so much any ways. So it was a hard decision, but it's better to make sure everything is right with the set up than rush it and end up missing something important which could result in failure.

I have a car that I MIGHT be able to drive... It is being dropped off at the Fab shop today which we were assured it would only take 2 days to complete. But as always, I'm not 100% sure it's going to work out. But I am hopeful with it and it's a good guy so things are looking up for it.

Anyways! On to Updates for the car!!

Due to the above.. I have been able to tackle a lot of little things I had been meaning to do on the car but never got around to.

Went ahead and Shaved off the Air Pump "Ear" on the water pump housing. It was annoying and would make for a cleaner look and more room to get my hands in under the UIM or near the FPR if need be.
I do all of this with my Angle Grinder haha... Just takes a bit of time to get "Right"


Top


Rear


By the way.. Does anyone know where I can Purchase a New Thermo Fan Switch Harness Side Connector AND pin? I've literally looked for months.


Purchased a new ACT mono-Lock for my Clutch. These have great Reviews!! Lets hope it does what it's supposed to!!


Sacrilegious.. But Sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do is best for the car/Budget and Performance


Then I got to porting my Throttle Body. I ended up porting through what I think... is a coolant port.. but I didn't care much to check it out. So I had to have Dan Dab weld it and smooth it out.

Heres what I started with

And here's where i ended...with the exception of finishing it off with some nice fine sand paper. Sorry I forgot to take pics!!



I get a lot of crap for doing stuff like this. I know people say it's pointless, and that it really isn't helping that much. But if I can make it that much easier to make power... Less stress. Less "Work" on any aspect of the engine/turbo/boost control... I'm going to do it. It took me a good hour...because I had to be careful to to skip the bit or go to deep. Plus I wanted it all to be symmetrical. But I feel like it's worth it =-)

Dan Fixing my mistake


Was able to watch some FD Japan late one night


And Last night I spent a while Wiring in my New Injector clips into the Engine Harness. My set up will fire both additional sets of injectors as one. ...or in other words Batch Firing. So Primaries will have 1 Inj each. Rear (1) 1300/Front (1) 1300. Secondaries will have Rear (2) 1300's / Front (2) 1300's for a total of 6 Injectors with Secondaries Batch firing together.

Spent a long time measuring and getting wire lengths right..and it came out great. I'll have to take pics when they're actually on the manifold and clipped in


And I was able to stop bymy buddy Alex Rodriguez's new shop in Corona. We'll be using his Dyno as it's much closer to us and very convenient!


I wanted to leave off on a positive note. Although there were circumstances I couldn't have prevented or even known were going to happen. I think it's important to learn from experiences. And what I learned was that If I want to continue to work with the Rotary engine.. I need to make sure that I handle things like this with utmost promptness, and also make sure that this doesn't happen again. I do try and take pride in being ready for each and every situation that repeats it's self in drifting. Things like having extra parts etc.. back up's included. If I would have had a nice set of back up housings to use.. I could have prevented this. So if I don't have money to purchase back up housings... then I need to work harder. In my opinion...if I work hard enough...I can make the funds needed to provide for this dream. So that is what i'll do. Never giving up and pushing to the limit!!!

Stay tuned!!

More Updates soon!

#Thisisthewolf

[Mannykiller]

Update: Sorry I've been Busy!!!

Wasn't too happy with my Throttle Body Hardware so I pulled it apart and went to Mcfaddendale to grab some nicer stuff.

Dirty Butterflies


Clean Butterflies


Old long hardware vs New shorter smoother Hardware


Finished (but still thinking of going back through and smoothing the Primary Butter fly Divider)


The new hardware doesn't protrude out past the threading. It sits flush. And the Allen heads are more attractive, aerodynamic and don't strip immediately when you touch them with a tool.


Did some Ignition Wiring on Rad Dan Burkett's Supra using all Dr-25 and Tefzel.. All AEM Smart Coils this year. I hate The connector plugs they supply with these coils. They're a royal Pain! But it came out nice!! We actually got the car started last night. I'll take more pics soon!



Not sure If i had posted this year...But Mikes Gen II PPRE Built Radbull 4-Rotor twin Turbo came off the boat and we've got some little tid bits here and there before Round 1 Formula Drift Long Beach Next Weekend. PPRE Made some SOLID improvements to the car for this season! I'm really looking forward to Next week!

Picked up some new Aero!


Made some solid Deals!!



Did some Filming with Mike,Dan and Jeff at Rad Industries!



Caught some more fish in Lajolla with my buddy Nam!!


Did some wiring on my Boost Control Solenoids 4-port and 3-port


And Finally got these Housings Back!!! WOOOHOOO!!! LETS GOO!!!


More Updates soon!! Stay Tuned!!!

Thanks guys!

#Thisisthewolf

[ryandriftingfat]

god damn you are handsome.

[Juan@Fontananissan]

love your build man, keep it up!

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by ryandriftingfat

god damn you are handsome.

hehehe ;-)

[DJPimpFlex]

Throttle body hardware upgrade makes me uncomfortably happy. That is next level detail oriented shit. So impressed.

[Mannykiller]

e!!!! "heart of the Wolf build"

I've been hammered here guys!!! But all is well and good!

The week before and After Formula Drift Long Beach Round 1 with Mike....wasssss gnarly!!! Not a moment to blink let alone sleep.

Lets start where I left off...The heart of the wolf build!!

This would mark the second time I've built one of my engines with the man himself.. Abel Ibarra. Since the last build...i can't count how many engines i've helped him put together ..and it's incredible the methodology behind it. Gives "Systematic" a new meaning. Each and every engine is done exactly the same. With no bogus spec sheet. It's all done on the fly...and the end product always shows. Even new parts get cleaned. And when I say clean...I can't really explain to you what exactly that entails..but lets just say that everyone out there who says they can put together an engine in a couple hours..isn't doing it the right way. Every build takes us (2) 8+ hour days. We took our time on The wolfs new heart.

Here's Abel doing a little bit of machining... just a taste of some of the things that keep Race engines running!


Fresh parts... I must say I am VERY proud to tell the world that i've saved roughly 1500 dollars on sourcing used plates and Irons. None of them getting Lapped...Or Resurfaced =-)


2mm Rotors....No Balancing required...and have a look at that Mazda Race Bearing.. secrets secrets!!!!


It's crazy how we do things now. We see eachother for roughly 10 hours and may say 15 to 20 sentences to eachother....Alll busy work. Im really thankful For Everything he's taught me. Pretty much forever in-debted...for the Mentorship/friendship and support he's shown me throughout this Journey. Who has an actual Drag Tree? haha... but a testament of his days while he was in "the zone." He used to sit in here and practice for hours on it...


PTS Seals... When only the best will do


All finished up... "More Art and expression than product." Each engine takes a bit of us with them.


Late nights and Parts mocking.... I did this on Wednesday Night after Dropping all Mikes stuff off at the track in long Beach. It was 3 Am and I had to stop working because I made a mistake. That's usually my warning that it's time to stop working.


The Dream team eating at Rosco's Chicken and Waffles.... I ate the chili and cornbread.. I've actually never had it before... but I wasn't necessarily impressed with the waffles and chicken.. The Chili and Cornbread was Excellent though haha.


On top of the Nitto Rig watching from the Pit


Before everyone gets to the event... Focus


On grid for Practice


A little sneak Peak


More Updates soon!!!!

Stay Tuned!!

#Thisisthewolf!

If you guys aren't following me on IG My User Name is @AAPARKAH!!! Hit me with a follow and I'll get you back!!!! Thanks for all the Support Guys!!! #Rx7Club4Lyfe!!

[Mofuhcka]

So many baller parts man, always love seeing new updates and how far youve came since the beginning!!

[Mannykiller]

Update: "Race Season Scramble"

Well it seems like race season has sprung on me fully...in what seems like no time! It's almost hard to even put together thoughts let alone gather them to share but I'll do my best to give you guys the low down!!

But firstly....I really wanted to thank everyone that has stuck around and supported me through text and even silently. I feel pretty damn lucky to have such a bad ass forum to help support me. Although we are a pretty "Different breed" of people...rx7 and rotary people specifically...I feel lucky to have a forum to come on to and read and see what other members are doing with their builds. I understand I won't ever be able to please everyone but I am doing my best to do so.


So lets see where we left off!!

I ended up hitting a bit of an issue. The Semi peripheral Lower Intake manifold hit the turbine housing of the EFR. Both the EFR8374 and the 9174 share the same exhaust housing...so it wouldbn't necessarily matter which turbo I used.. But it hit. So To make it work... there were a few different options.

1) The first would be to have a spacer made to go in between Gleasemans manifold and the engine block.

2) The second would be to have Gleasemans manifold flange machined at an angle. ( NOT COOL)

3) And the third and most time taking.... mock up and make a jig for John and have him construct a manifold with it.

I went back and forth for about 4 hours trying to think of other ways and or other options to fix the issue and get the car running but I eventually realized that anything other than a perfectly fitting manifold would be cutting corners. So I bit the bullet and decided that i'd make a jig based off Gleasemans original manifold and send that jig to him so that he could construct a manifold to fit.

Here's where the Manifold NEEDED to place the turbo:

And after 6 Days including 5 days shipping John "Gleaseman" had a Brand new Extended version of his billet Series EFR manifold constructed AND Jigged, and on it's way back to Sunny California! So if anyone needs to run one of these manifolds with the SEMI Peripheral Manifold that I'm using... We're All Set! IT WILL FIT! As Seen Below...with a 3" to 4" Transition for the Down Pipe

So because Dan has been so busy getting ready for Formula Drift Atlanta..... He only had time late at night to help me. So During the day I'd do all fabrication metal "Cuts" and mock up.. ON and off the car so that when night came...He could sit down and weld everything out for me.

It takes time to make sure everything fits well. I've learned from my first couple go arounds...that you really want to ensure that everything fits properly..because you never know when you'll need to pull something apart.. hell...even if you don't ever have to take it apart... and all you do is install it. Installing something that fits well and is easy to put into the car is a hell of a lot more enjoyable than something that is all mickey mouse hacked up. I took my time with this down-pipe and took into consideration where I wanted my dual Wideband Sensors to sit... ground clearance..Heat management.. spacing from the body of the car...transmission. and bell housing.. EVEN where I wanted to run the EGT Wires...which equated me needing to make the slightest bit of a pie cut below to kick the whole piece down a tad more. The End product came out well and still retains all it's functions =-) Pumped on it.

Down Pipe Cut and Tacked up


Dan doing his thing



So this is how I do it. I leave everything loose... Including the turbo Juuuuust a tad. When I mock everthing up....I move it up down left right and circular to make sure it's free from hitting anything. You do Of Course...need the space to do that...but Since I had the space.. it wasn't an issue. Some people....even a guy at the shop who was just passing through had told me that I was dumb for not tightening down my turbo all the way. But the thing is... If you tighten it down ALL the way.. If something moves...and usually when it's welded..it does.. Then you've got not margin for error. If you have the space... In my experience.. mock it up and make sure you have clearance for WHEN things move. At the worst case scenario...the turbo can only move SOOO much on the studs.... so use that space..and plan for the IF. I guess this may only apply to people like myself who don't weld... but shit..it worked like a charm.. Twice In fact!! on the old set up and this one as well.
This is a pic of the mating end of the down pipe ..where it meets the mid pipe. The mid pipe was connected to my Exhust tip and I tilted it up with wire to see how far it would go. When I let tension off.. it mates up Perfectly!!!



Then I got out my Heat sink Wideband O2 bungs. They're too long and would only allow 1/4" of the tip of the sensor to sit in the flow of the exhaust path. That just wouldn't do.... So i ended up cutting a few sinks off each so that the sensor would set fully in the flow of exhaust gas.


Look how retarded my friends are... Hahaha... straight screen nab


And here is where things start to get intense. Although I do have a full shop that is accessible to me.. and my car is now Located at Rad Industries in Santa Ana.. I still use all my tools etc to get stuff done. The one thing I have taken advantage of is Our Teams Tools. But at the same time... I still like to use my own...because Then I know that If I don't have something... I'll need to cough it up and get it.. It's like an investment in my own program ya know? Plus I know what tools are being used for what..and what I'll need to use in case of something needing to be fixed.

So ....On to one hell of a tedious process...

So with this process... In cutting the Borg Warner EFR 1.05 A/R... I wanted to make sure that I did it right. So I needed to pre plan it..and really try and figure out where I wanted to vent the gates on the turbine housing. Too close to the Divided Flange...and getting the turbo on and off..(Fastening it with hardware) would be a royal Pain. Too high... and I'd be ...In My Opinion... messing with Aerodynamics of the inside of the Volutes. To me... at this point in the cycle...from my knowledge of how exhaust gas expands and hits the turbine wheel.. When it gets closer to the wheel..it's Channeled into the vein and forced through a smaller area than it's been traveling in order to hit the turbine wheel optimally. If I vent too close to this.. then I'm adding all this turbulence to that specific area. I didn't want to do that. So what I did was get as close to the flattest part of the "Run" as possible... after the flange.. before the bend into the vein...but at the same time.. i'm working with limited space.. so needless to say.. Choosing the right area..took a whole lot of time... a ton of imagination... and a lot of brainstorming haha. My goal was to end up with a 50/50 shoot internally.... that way Gas hit the tear dropped portion off the housing and vein to the turbine wheel equally. I wanted this to be the case for both front and rear divides of the turbine wheel. So here's all my pics of that process... And holy sweet baby jesus was it time consuming! Hours would go by and it would seem like I was still working on a possible solution. Then I'd come up with one and it wouldn't meet all of my goal.



I can't really remember how long it took to get to this point...but it took a very long time. I Used an angle grinder for most of it.. a big vice... a giant hard plastic 3lb mallet... and patience


I will say that the rear....the second of the two was a bit easier after I figured out a good method to getting it to fit.


Just part of the process


Once I got my attack method down.... Fitment started getting better and better


And then My original Tear Drops Changed shape quite a bit. But it's ok, because it's not a straight shot.


Cutting the Turbine Housing process

Rough Cuts


Gate side looking into the Volute


More Rough Mock ups


Slowly cleaning up


Inside Looking towards the Gate vent


Turning out pretty good!!!! Fitment wise!!! Yeeooww!!



Inside Looking towards the Gate vent


Turning out pretty good!!!! Fitment wise!!! Yeeooww!!



Opposite Side Looking from gate looking Down into Turbine


End result for the Exhaust Turbine Housing. I may port it out a little After the Sched 40 Stainless Gate routes are welded on. But I ensured all edges were in favor of Flow..and there were no sharp and or jagged edges etc


one side


the other


Heres a look at just how nice John Gleason (Gleasemans Billet Port Matched EFR Flange is. It Literally fits... PERFECTLY to the Flage of the EFR Inlet. No overhangs... edges sticking out..or anything that would hinder or upset flow. Some people say a little here and there doesn't matter.... But Everything Matters!!



This was a hard cut




Down Pipe Wrapping......Using PTP Lava Heat Wrap. This stuff does Wonders!!! NO JOKE!!! IT actually works!! This stuff is NOT just for looks.


Forgot to post pics of the Welded out O2 Bungs on the Down Pipe!!

[Mannykiller]

Continued:
Once the Gate runners were completed.. we decided to put the weld on V-band flanges on before we welded the runners to the Housings.

Worst Case Scenario Mock. As you can see it doesn't fit 100%. But its also not aligned perfectly. We always shoot for perfect alignment..but I make sure we have NON perfect alignment room haha


another




ANother close look at just how nice GleaseMans Billet Series Manifolds truly are..... Gets me everytime.


Pure Quality....IN Art!!


sorry for the blurry pic...


Ayyy..... Getting there eh?!!


On and off... parts go on and off soooo many times during this process!!!!!!on off on off on off.. Annoying ya? But 100% Necessary!!!!

Finally pulled the tape from the Exhaust Ports... sealed the Turbo Flange of the manifold so nothing can fall into it and installed the manifold to spec! EGT's installed. It took me a good min to make sure both EGT Bungs were 100% inserted at the same depth haha. A guy at the shop walked by a few times and eventually said... "What the Hell are you doing dude." Now a days ...My response is simply.. "EVERYTHING MATTERS!!!"


Cooked some of that Fresh Yellow Tail! Gangusters good!!




And that concludes where I left off just yesterday morning. The Transporter showed up for Radbull so we spent the day Loading up all the goods and equipment for Formula Drift ATLANTA!!! Pretty pumped to get out again and can't wait to see the rest of the team!



I'll get sorted on my car on the flip side and I'm looking forward to first start up and test days before Round 2 Top Drift at HTM!!! Stay tuned and THank you for all the support!

More Updates soon!

Stay Tuned!!

#Thisisthewolf

IG: AAPARKAH

[ryandriftingfat]

This is the best 370Z ever.

I cannot believe I forgot to put Wow in that picture it's like rule #1 for doge memes kill me.

[Mannykiller]

Update!!! "Finally an Update"

Hey guys!!! It's been a wild past couple of months, But I am Excited to show you guys The Progress!

First Stat Happened, buttoning Up happened.. Here are some quick Pics! and Hopefully I'll be able to add some content asap!

Putting Together the Borg Warner EFR9174 W/1.05 Turbine Housing!


Some EMAP Block Off's Until My New ECU Comes in.. The Gleaseman Billet Series Manifold is PRIME!!! Still amazed at the quality and worksmanship in this piece of art!



Coming Together


EFR Turbo Water Line... Had to get a bit Creative...But it works excellent!


Waste Gate Exit Mock Up


Filling the Coolant System with The Best there is!! 100% Distilled Water and (1) Bottle of Redline Synthetic Water Wetter!!


Everyone Should read this book!


Configuring my WG Springs for the 4-Port Boost Control Solenoid (5) lbs


Had to rush to Turbosmart to Pick up Extra Back up Springs Just in case I needed to Trouble shoot. It's never good to assume that everything will be working correctly...and now that the car is a bit more wild. it's not necessarily Driveable ANYWHERE other than the track. It's now Non-Operational and No longer Streetable. So Dyno and Track are the only places I'll be able to test for here on out. Good thing is Alex Rodriguez Motorsports is Sponsoring us Dyno Time for the Season!! So we'll be using his Facility as much as possible to fine tune this Power band!!


Finally Finished the Charge Piping and Intercooler inlet/outlet!!


Mocked, Cut, Measured, Cut, Mocked, PTP LAVA Wrapped and Safety Wired my Waste Gate Atmosphere Pipes!


Coming Together!


Then It finally Happened.... FIRST START VIDEO!!!
#Thisisthewolf2k16

[Mannykiller]

Update Continued:

Coming Together!


Made a few Quick fab shop Videos!
Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzh0QGM1_yU

Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7sWo6hMFFQ

Part 3: "Art in Fabrication"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pS6TlPNV_NM

Then It finally Happened.... FIRST START VIDEO!!!
#Thisisthewolf2k16
https://youtu.be/mgIJi0scseQ

Proud To Announce My Newest Sponsor ILABB out of New Zealand! Pumped to be part of a company that Genuinely Cares about it's Team! Check em out!! https://ilabb.com/


Wanted to re-do my Wastegate lines using all PTFE Hose! Went with Earls Speed Flex PTFE AN-4. I LOVE PTFE HOSE!!! It's definitely my favorite now



Almost there.... Takeing time to make sure it's done right!!



loooooveeee new shiny metal stuff!! Came out Great!


Made a bracket for my 4-Port Boost Control Solenoid


I also love Safety wire haha


Finished Set up!! minus turbo Blanket and Filter


Close up


YEEEEOOOOWWWW!!!