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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-23-2007, 11:52 AM | #61 | |
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Quote:
Your right, i was thinking upsidedown, because i always flip the motor when i drop pistons out the top of the deck. I think you can remove them with the oil squirters out of the way.
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05-23-2007, 11:56 AM | #62 |
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Haha.. I was wondering what the fuck you were smoking.
I still don't think you can take them out the bottom even with the oil squirters removed though. I'll go snap a pic of a block from above, and you can see where they wouldn't fit. Tyler |
05-23-2007, 11:57 AM | #63 |
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Dude i know ive built several motors, im just out of it, its finals week
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05-23-2007, 12:02 PM | #64 |
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Ok, well I already took the picture and uploaded it. I'll be damned if I did all that for nothing. So.. For BenefitX then.
You can't take them out the bottom, they won't fit. Tyler |
05-23-2007, 02:36 PM | #65 |
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tyler reps man thanks alot...yea im gunna pull off the head , just need to run to autozone and buy a 27mm wrench and a 26 i think for the cams right?? or was it 25...ill just buy 3....oh and a crank pulley puller wrench then i can start...
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05-24-2007, 02:51 PM | #66 |
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ok...this is what i got done
Took out the cam sprockets...took out all the camshaft caps... removed the chain tensioner and took off the cams... removed all the rocker arms took out the headstuds in order stripped the head of all the washers and shims...removed the head stripped the block down some more (motor mounts , water pump) took off pressure plate. Now i need to 1) take off crank pully 2) take off flywheel 3) take off oil pump |
05-25-2007, 09:10 AM | #73 |
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ok so i pulled off the flywheel...took off the upper oil pan and the baffle plate and oil strainer...
pulled out all 4 rods and pistons... cylinder 3 had NO rod cap bearing at all...and the bearing that it DID have looked like this (see pic 1) the rod is bent too...its so FUBAR that the rod cap wont even go back onto the rod end the crank is fucked...its not smooth at all , it feels like its been sanded down with 60grit.. also cylinder 1's bearings were out of shape too.. 2 and 4 were the only good ones so how do i pull out the crank now?? i know i have to take off the girdle but i have not pulled off the crank pully , i got the bolt off but the pulley is not coming off......what else do i have to take off? Last edited by benefitx; 08-01-2007 at 08:37 PM.. |
05-25-2007, 11:22 AM | #74 |
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You need a pulley puller to get the crank pulley off.
Then you have to take off the Rear Main Seal. Then take out all the main studs. Pull the girdle. Try and get the caps off by hand, but it never works, soo.. Take two screwdrivers, one down in each hole. Grab them with one hand, and wiggle back and forth, the cap will come off. Tyler Last edited by HellonFire; 05-25-2007 at 01:17 PM.. |
05-26-2007, 11:47 AM | #75 |
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pulled out the crank...
EVERY single main bearing had deep scratches on them, the ones that go on the caps...just deep scratches in the center of the bearing but the crank main journals looked fine...idunno... i bought a new crank anyways.. |
05-27-2007, 12:02 PM | #76 |
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Just bought some ACL Dura Glide 780 bearings in STD Size because i also bought a new crank....and new rods and pistons...
so now i will need some plastigauge green, i can get this from autozone right? and some engine assembly lube...or known as torco lube?? |
05-27-2007, 06:21 PM | #77 |
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will i need to replace my headgasket as well?? i think i have a stock one on there im not sure...how would i be able to tell if mines is aftermarket or not or if it could be reused..i mean if it cant i will buy this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...spagenameZWD1V |
05-27-2007, 06:43 PM | #78 | |
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I dont care if it was brand new - I would eat the $100 and save myself from a huge PITA of having to replace it later! On the SR go Cometic! |
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05-27-2007, 06:45 PM | #79 |
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also even if you bought a new crank - you might as well take it and the block to a machice shop to make sure everything is straight and right and go aheah and pay the extra $$ to get it all balanced!
Do it right the first time even if it takes you an extra month to save up its so worth it!!! |
05-27-2007, 07:09 PM | #81 |
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Yes, you need a new HG. Either get a Cometic, or better yet, an Apex'i, but the Apex'i is almost twice the price. You will also want to have the machine shop make sure that the block and head surgaces are clean and flat, especially if you are using a MLS HG.
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05-28-2007, 02:22 PM | #84 |
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It can be done without it, but its so much easier when you have one. As a recommendation you will probably want to replace your clutch(at least the disc) while you have everything apart. Its so much easier to put a clutch in when its not in the car.
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05-28-2007, 03:40 PM | #87 |
Hey benefitx, keep the pictures and info comming mate! This stuff is like dirty magazines for motor enthusiasts. I'm doing a DE+t with my SR20DE. Which will get me better response and hp per psi Because of the DE being a 10:1 comp ratio i Think. Don't quote.
But yeah, i'm thinking about doing a rebuild also, so this stuff would come in handy as i've never done a rebuild before and it's good to see what it's like to do first time round. Especially with all the little things people forget to tell you about. Looking good so far, keep us posted!
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05-28-2007, 03:54 PM | #88 |
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ill be pulling my SR and doing the same thing this week.
this thread should be a decent help since it's my first time into the depths of a bottom end. man that soudned gay. |
05-28-2007, 04:05 PM | #89 |
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read my other thread. its called "Write up to strip an engine" step by step on how to tear down an engine to a bare block...when i start assembling the engine ill be taking pics of every thing.
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05-28-2007, 04:05 PM | #90 |
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