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08-06-2019, 03:29 PM | #61 |
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dedication. lots of dedication!!!
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08-10-2019, 07:25 AM | #62 |
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After speaking with tractuff I rerouted the wastegate cooling lines so that theres a greater pressure differential on them. Before I went from the oem oil cooler feed to the back of the head but now I'm running them basicly to the oil cooler feed and return. The k24 doesn't have oil cooler ports from the factory so the return is taped into the water pump housing. Due to the complexity of the lines and the area they would be running through I swapped them to metal lines along with the turbo feed line. I also deleted the heater core for now as it's a high point in the system, the swirl pot will be the heater return and bypass feed. This combined with a filler port inline on The top rad hose has greatly aided in the ability to bleed the cooling system but it's still not prefect. I havent tried to drive it yet cause it was late but Tuesday I will mostly see if all this pays off before my custom swirl pot comes in next week.
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08-14-2019, 04:28 AM | #63 |
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Found some more time to work yesterday. After reconfiguring the lines it still ran hot. So I turned my attend to the brand new tstat. For starters Ktuned install the tstat upside down. They must just plop it in the cause theres only about 90degrees of usable positions and in my position it was on the very bottom.
I took it out and ran it. Engine bleed what seemed to be instantly and ran cool with the fans only cycling on for about 20 seconds every few mins to maintain below 195F. After testing the tstat to confirm it opened. I drilled out the weep hole to 3/8. This was to help give it a fighting chance sense the Ktuned tstat housing does not restrict the bypass flow once warm like almost all OEM tstat housings. on of the things I think I've been fight this whole time is lack of head(pump pressure) to flow water threw the rad and it takes the easy route threw the bypass. Filling it up with the tstat installed it seemed to bleed instantly again. I let it cycle twice with the cap off the took it for a drive. Around town it seemed fine hold temps 193-197 but once I got on the highway the cooling didnt want to keep up. After while of crusing at 70Mph at 3300rpm the temps settled at 205F. This hotter then I'd like but the system is functioning properly now as the tstat housing and CLT (at the start of the outlet hose) were always within a few degrees of each other except when the running the fan at idle. As the tstat temps would drop up to 10 below the CLT. Got another week before the swirl pot comes in so I'm not gona try to bleed it any more till then but I'm content for now. I'm now comfortable driving it away from the garage. Although it still not happy with the temps at highway speed. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
08-31-2019, 01:32 PM | #65 |
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After some test driving the cooling setup got bleed to the point where i could cruise at 70mph @3300rpm and hold 185F CLT. Then swirl pot came in, fits perfectly and really cleans up the engine bay. I havent got it run that cool yet but i think its dependant on the weather. generally it crusises around 191-195F during the day and almost thermostat temp at night.
i also swaped out my the VLSD for a welded diff with the Skyline diff cover i picked up while i was in Japan awhile back. now that temps are under control I've been talking with greaser about getting a tune soon. Driving this around is real fun and its tough not beating on it yet. I got the AFRs close and all functions are currently on except for EBC. on the highway its tough to keep this thing out of boost with how quick it wants to spool after 3000 rpm then VTEC kicks in hard at 4000 rpm (for now). it reminds me of driving the shark car with a stock RB25DET NEO except I'm in the low-mid 300hp range running only 6 PSI. cant wait see the tuner and put some timing back into this monster and enable boost control. heres a little tease with how soon the S257SX-E wants to spool. |
09-05-2019, 05:15 AM | #68 |
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Here it is guys. 330whp and 305ftlbs on 12 psi on 93 octane. I'm a little disappointed in these numbers as I was expecting 400whp on 9psi as I've seen in couple dyno sheets but hopefully that will come with some tinkering. I need to figure out why the torque just starts to fall off after peak at 4500 rpm in not like a honda motor.
Got a couple things to play with to improve output as boost control wasnt setup to Increase spool yet. The 12 psi comes in alot later at 4000rpm then when the wastegates werent opening and hitting 14 psi around 3300rpm. It's also very rich on the street the dyno said 12afr, I need to look at the logs to see what my gauge was reading on the dyno, but I'm seeing AFR in the 10s on the street. Thinking about getting an adjustable exhaust cam gear to help with top end power. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
09-05-2019, 08:03 AM | #70 |
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.....aaaaaand thats why I don't care for dynos for numbers sake.
Numbers mean next to nothing. Too many variables. For a tuning tool, absolutely great thing. Does the car run good and feel strong? Thats what counts. If not, make changes. |
09-05-2019, 08:16 AM | #71 |
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^^ If a similar car on a similar dyno with similar conditions makes xxx amount more than yours, with that xxx amount being say 50-90 whp (and there are multiple cases of this considering how vast the Honda market is), then a number is good way to determine if there are any inherent issues with his particular setup. He is down some 70 WHP @ 3 psi MORE boost. That is not just up to conditions as that is a significant swing.
Blanket statement about "numbers" doesn't make sense in the grand scheme of things. Comparison and repeatability of results, do. |
09-05-2019, 11:22 AM | #73 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Looking things over there is some improvements that can be done to the tune that Imma work on myself. Something that I am starting to realize with a bit of research and messing around with Borg Warner's Match bot is that the 1.0 A/R turbine housing on my S257 is choking the motor as around 5500rpm engine delta pressure starts to go negative. I doubt I can fit a larger s363 or EFR8374 as it would probably hit the hood or valve cover. one thing I can do is get a 1.22 Twin scroll housing to help the top end breathe better and match bot shows it wont even hurt spool noticeably till I try to max out the turbo on E85
Yes these dynos read low but is a large expectation difference. The setup feels like my old 14 psi KA-T with more power between 2000-3000rpm and I'm making the same power (same dyno) as my buddy with his SR20 on 16psi, but I'm making close to double the torque . Looking over other k24a2 STOCK BLOCK dyno charts I see some motors havea flat torque curve and there's others where the torque cruve only drops maybe 10% between peak and redline. Meanwhile I'm lossing about a 1/3 of my torque. I believe the turbine housing is choking it but I do need to play with EBC as its not a perfect 12 psi it fluctuates about a psi. Here's what I was hoping for I believe this is with a 6262 or a T04z on 9psi in an automatic TSX |
09-05-2019, 11:32 AM | #74 | |
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Quote:
and for those wanting to hear it. this was one of the final pulls dont rember if it was 9, 12 or 14 psi tho. turbo starts to spool at 3k, VTEC at 3200 and then full spool at 4k. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSrjSRLToQ Last edited by foreverdeath; 09-05-2019 at 12:09 PM.. |
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09-08-2019, 05:42 PM | #76 | |
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Quote:
One thing I have noticed after leaving the dyno is AFR on the street was in a the 9.5-11 WOT, very rich which could rob some power. The injector duty cycle at peak is 62% (1035cc) which is almost 400whp of fuel being put into the engine. the big thing i think it will come down to is cam angle timing. Due to the fact the tuner collapsed the 3 axis and used a single map for a 50degree sweep of cam advance for fuel and ignition i find it hard to believe it was running optimally at each cam angle. Comparing the dyno tune to a K20 base map i used there was about 10-20 dregees of timing adv. pulled after peak torque comparing the 2. Also the Hondata K24A2 I/H/E and 7 psi supercharged base tunes has more cam adv up top then the dyno tune. |
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09-22-2019, 08:41 AM | #77 |
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I'm just gonna accept these results for now. After alot of reading this just seems to be the norm. Soon imma try out e85 maxing out the id1000s. After this underway coming up I may fork out the 400$ for a k20z3 head and get that top end power I'm looking for.
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09-22-2019, 05:51 PM | #79 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
Started e85 testing today put 5 gallons in on a close toempty tank and got e42. Got fuel close and timing need to be pulled for haltechs default addition amount as I'm picking up a little bit of knock at 10.5psi. Tomorrow once I see it cold start fine and I ease out some of the timing I'll see how it like what ever is actully coming out of the pump here on base. E85 on same boost sound net me 30-60whp but idk how much injector headroom I'll have left, kinda cutting it close. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
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09-24-2019, 12:59 PM | #80 |
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ID1000 limits have been found at 43.5 psi fuel pressure. Even though I've only been running E63 (i think the station here is only pumping E70) so far at .9Bar/13.3.Psi I've found the limit. If I was actully running e85 the additional 6% of fuel would for sure hit 100%. guess its time to move fuel psi up to 4 bar.
I haven't tried adding much timing only 3 degrees at full compensation, currently at 70% comp, but already I can feel decent addition of power. On pump I had boost control set to 8psi in first and second then 13.3 psi 3rd gear and up, this was to keep traction. I keep these settings for flex fuel but now it lights up the tires in 2nd and 3rd at these pressures. Here is a little snipet of a datalog from today sliding it briefly. one thing i need to try playing with is the EBC plumping as it will almost always spike if i try to increase spool by adding duty cycle. |
10-13-2019, 04:24 PM | #81 |
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Good news and bad news. Good new is got another motor for 700$. Bad news is I found the torque limit of the factory rods at 350-375ftlbs and it started knocking.
Over the last week I've been pulling the motor and working on my new alternator and PS pump relocation. Today I finally started tearing down the knocking motor. After pulling the windage tray I could see rod 3 with a very slight S curve in it. The motor still turns over by hand freely but there was a slight tick at TDC. While I've been tearing it down I've noticed a few other things. First off I found a vac/boost leak with a 2nd map port that never saw before on my TB adapter. I use nether as I'm running haltech built in map sensor. It's getting plugged and I'm moving my BOV vac source to the map port on my j35 TB after taping it for 1/8npt. And my Watergate will now get reference from the compressor housing, hopefully this will help with boost control wanting to initially spike and help me get traction in 1st by lowering base boost by about 1psi. 1/8npt. Next came making a prototype bracket for my new belt setup that allows for easier tensioning and removal of the alternator with out removing the intake. Prior to this the TB was actually laying on the top bolt of the alternator. This involved hand machining 3/4x1 1/4 AL bar stock and welding a few pieces for the idler pulley and ps pump lower bracket. Soon I have a buddy of mine mill a billet version along with an actual bushing for the idler not a m10 bolt welded to a m8 bolt... picture of my TIG welding jig for that I've always used thermal gaskets on my intake especially if they come with the intake manifold but the Skunk 2 one that came with my intake didnt match the port correctly nor did the throttle body adapter gasket. So I matched them to the port while lightly polishing the intake to help with top end power. I got a little more instore for this but I'm outa time as i have to go to sea for a brief underway. Wont be a long wait tho before I have it running agian. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
10-16-2019, 06:47 PM | #83 |
Zilvia Junkie
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its a lot of work good news is, TF is making a mount and oil pan kit for this swap i was i made i kit like planned to but i just dont have time with the navy, shoot i dont even have a garage anymore.
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10-17-2019, 11:15 AM | #84 |
Nissanaholic!
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As I have said on other threads, May the car Gods bless your s13 with a quick and pain free recovery.
p.s do not stress the numbers. The fun is in driving it. Fix it and go pick up the groceries like a normal person! haha |
10-30-2019, 10:08 AM | #85 |
Zilvia Junkie
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New motor is in and waiting tranny fluid to put in after work today. I think I know why my old motor firstly was lacking power and second why I only bent cyl 3s rod. When installing the intake gasket which i opened up to the size of the S2 ultra intake i noticed that the center ports lined up nicely but 1 and for were offset by a few mm to the side. This is probably because the intake was designed for a k20 not a k24 which have slightly different ports. Out of all the port cyl3 had the best alignments of ports so it was the most airflow and the leanest.
After pulling the head it's clear that only cyl3 bent a rod and the motor is still buildable. Hell I could probably just toss a rod in it and send it. I have yet to pull that piston to see its condition tho. There is one scratch on the right side of the picture the barely catches the tip of a knife. This motor will be save to be built. Which at a minimum will be getting rods, pistons and porting of the head. Maybe I'll even toss a k20z3 head and port it out. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
12-03-2019, 09:56 AM | #86 | |
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Quote:
I'd keep working with the tune and the boost controller before I changed out hardware. Cool project you've got here! You've put a ton of work into this thing. Also, you have a lot of broken picture links!
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12-03-2019, 12:36 PM | #87 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Thank you I need to do some updating as I've been driving around on the new motor and have it mostly retuned just gota redo EBC as I move the refference to the compressor. Maybe this weekend I'll do an update.
But the main thing I think is the issuse is port misalignment with the k20 intake and k24 head. I did some cleaning up of the gasket and light porting of the intake but to get the right transition I would need to gasket match the head. Basically all of my intake gaskets overlapped the porrs by a few mm. Even the TB thermal gasket (came with the intake) was smaller bore then the TB adapter and intake by about a 3/8" in dia. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
12-03-2019, 05:32 PM | #88 |
hey man hows the navy treating you by the way?
i myself am serving overseas here in the UK. extremely interested in this swap for my s14, are you having any oil pressure issues? Tfworks posted there shakedown video of the s chassis k swap but they were dealing with some major oil pressure loss when cornering. The way the engine is designed it seems the only way to keep it oiled under high demands/g's is to run dry sump. idk im kinda drawn off from this swap if that will be the major downside. sr's are getting ridiculous to source plus running heavy 6 pot engines just ruins the weight/agility of the cars. Im subbing to this thread hoping you will do all the guess work for the rest of us noobs. Cheers! |
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12-04-2019, 08:42 AM | #89 | |
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Quote:
https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=671498
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12-05-2019, 01:18 PM | #90 |
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This build is awesome. I regret not buying back the totalled (rear collision) 06 accord we had since new. I'm keeping my eye on this thread.
Can we please get more sound clips man? I'd be interested in the "boring" highway cruising vids if you have any. |
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