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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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#1 |
Nissanaholic!
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very helpfull resource here http://ka-t.org/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/ especially since you're new to this stuff.
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#3 | |
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#4 |
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ok.. i have a decent question i suppose...
now i know the maf can be put after the turbo .. but how bad is it? and what would need to be changed? like i've seen on some of the is300 turbo kits.. they just put the maf in the charged pipe.. isnt it going to throw off the maf or will it become more precise?
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#5 |
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Great question!
That's called blow-through maf, as opposed to pull-through like we all use. Pull-thru is when air is pulled by the motor, or the turbo. Blow through is only done on boosted engines. These setups seem to be hit-or-miss as far as functionallity. In theory, if you setup a blow-thru and tuned it, it would work wonderfully. The main advantages of this type of MAF is that you can run open-atmosphere blow off valve without the instant-richness that is associated with a pull-through setup. This is because the air in a pull-thru is metered, compressed, and put in the intake piping. The BOV dumps it, but the motor is ready for all that air, and adds fuel. With a blow-thru, the air isn't metered until further down the charge pipes (the closer to the TB, the better to an extent), and bieng vented through the BOV won't affect the a/f ratios. Another advantage is that you can eliminate alot of intake piping and couplings associated with the pull-through maf infront of the turbo. Disadvantages are making piping for a 80mm z32 or slightly larger cobra maf. The z32 maf I would expect to explode under pressure, because it's very thin, brittle plastic. The Cobra MAF is 3.5" inlet, and 3" outlet, which makes setting up the piping a bitch. -Jeff
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#6 |
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just something to add because it wasnt in this thread:
stock compression is 9.5:1 on the KA24DE motor, boost to 12-13psi is fine, but going to 15psi is doable but with good tuning, past that point is kinda dangerous on pumpgas... ![]()
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#8 | |
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#9 |
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RevHard is proven. I have a buddy selling a used FMax manifold (and I'll lend my reputation to him).
And the SSA isn't bad from what I've seen. TNathe on here has the top mount, and no problems yet. The bottom mount has been redesigned and is supposed to be better. -Jeff
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#11 |
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Ok everybody says to use a z32 MAF with a SAFC for proper tunning (at least I am going that way)
Checking on Ebay, ther is 2 models of Z32 MAF, one ending in N60 and the other one in N62 there is a difference between the two Can I use any one, what settings are for each one I saw the connector config on a post, but for what MAF is? As for NA~soon to be turbo. Can I install a Z32 with SAFC before going turbo, test,tune in NA. As for parts, I have Volvo T3 turbo (will post pics later) JGS top manifold what fuel pump? walbro or z32? Will get 370cc fuel injectors (will Sr and RB are the same?) As of now I already spent 350.00 and I am looking for a 5~10 max boost. |
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#12 |
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The MAFS needs to be the one that ends in N62, i dont know where the other one is from. Maybe a Z31. I got mine directly from a z32.
As for fuel pumps, just get a walbro, brand new is ~90-100, you cant beat that. Is this for a s13 or S14? If it is for a S14 there is only one place that i know of that sell the correct kit for the S14 fuel pump, http://ftfmotorsports.com/1924255lphhi.html , Thats the place. It's a little pricey, but you wont starve the motor if you are near empty.(info from FA faqs) |
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#13 |
Zilvia Addict
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That will be a S13
I was checking the turbo exhaust housing I notice some small cracks around the stock wastegate port. Although very small,dunno if that will be detrimental in anyway. Also I heard that some guys are using external wastegates as blow off valves. What benefit, if any, does that? I may need to relocate the MAF (for simplicity sakes) so is a blown thru setup, any tips on this. I have searched here but havent seen any other benefit other than the simplicity of the piping. I will post pics of turbo crackso you guys can check them out |
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#14 |
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Why would you use an external wastegate for a blow off? That is not its purpose. Use a wastegate as a wastegate, use a bov for a bov. Simple as that.
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#15 |
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This question was asked, and answered in a different form then I was looking for earlier. There are plenty of s14 turbos out there, boost designs, hks, xs, and elcheapo ebay kit. I drive a '90 s13 with a ka24de swapped into it. Now, the only issue making the s14 turbo not work with a s13 is clearace issues with the engine bay (atleast that's what I gathered from the earlier post). I got advice on another forum to piece together my own turbo frankenstein style. I have read atleast 7 threads on how turbos work, the cycles of turbo etc etc. I know enough about how turbos work, but I have no way to be sure I have the ability/knowledge to piece together my own turbo. With my luck I would forget something, and get bad rodknock, or blow my motor.
* Would I be able to buy a turbo kit for the s14, and buy some parts to elimintate clearance issues? * What are all the parts I'd need to frankenstein a kit, and where can I buy each piece? * Is it more cost effective to swap in a jdm motor (sr20 or ca18) then to turbo my ka? I do not aspire to gain insane boost levels simply peicing together a makeshift el cheapo kit. I just want a base to build off, to get started. So I don't need the best crap on to start out, but I don't want to sacrifice every ounce of quality to put a kit together for $700. I know tuning is expensive. Thank you, and flame if you must, just a boost n00b with a question.
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#16 |
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Goto page one, and see DoriftoSlut's post. He lists all the parts there. Just read. I dont think you should have any fitment problems because the 91+ s13s came with a dohc. I've seen people run the SSA T25 manifold on a DOHC s13 and the JGS manifold with a t3/t4 without any problems. I'd recommend you buy just piece together the parts, and do lots of research. www.ka-t.org is a great place for more info.
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#17 |
ok so i was thinking of running emange when i do my turbo setup, but can i get away with just an apexi afc? i was gunna use a t25 turbo from a sr20, walbro fuel pump, injectors from a rx-7 (550cc i think. i know its those are to big but im getting em for free),i will doing matience on the car soon with a 300zx fuel filter and taking care of the spark. will that be a safe setup with a smic from a sr20 also? what kind of power can i expect? i have done my research and just finializing plans and getting a plan before i start purchasing. i will be using the ka24e
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#18 | |
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Lindsay hates KA's. ![]() Emanage info is up for you people that don't like JWT ecu's or Safc's... (seperate thread) HERE Stand alone is ALWAYS a good idea. If you have the money for tuning and what not. You get complete and total control of the motor and its functions and that cannot be matched by any piggyback. 300RWHP can easily be done on a piggyback or a standalone. Although the timing issues with a piggyback make standalone a little better option.
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#19 |
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Yes, a SAFC will work. That setup sounds good, cheap, and simple. Expect about 220rwhp@ ~7psi. I dont think going higher than 7psi will be a good idea on a stock smic.
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#20 |
Timing Retard
I read on the KA-t forum that for every psi you should retard half a degree. Which brings me to my next question.I plan on 7 psi with an E-manage 370cc, walbro and T-28 from S14 etc. So base timing is 20 degrees right how do I retard timing to be 16 degrees?, and is anyone here running the hacked maf from the 240sx? I thought our stock maf was good to like 10 psi ? Just LMK.
Thanx
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#21 |
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There are a couple people running hacked mafs on this board. The way you retard timing is through the distributor. Loosen all 3 bolts holing the distributorand then unplug the TPS. Get a timing light. Search a little theres a write up somewhere here.
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#22 |
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isn't the standalone AEM unit a bit excessive for 300whp? wouldn't an apexi s-afcII work just as good for your needs and be a helluvalot cheaper?
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#23 |
Zilvia Junkie
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![]() This is the Megan Racing top mount manifold. I was just wondering if anyone has it, and was there any fitment issues with it. I know you guys only wanted facts in this thread, but this question comes up a lot and I did multiple searches with different keywords and really came up with nothing. I just wouldn't want people to get this manifold if it has issues of hitting the BMC or the shock tower. Thanks fellas. |
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#25 | |
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#26 | |
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#27 |
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ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs...
the map sensor kicks but.. also. i ran an arc fmic for a s13 sr20det and it bolts up great... just needed to modify the turbo outlet side other than that it fit on intake manifold pretty well..
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#29 |
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I am currently rebuilding a KA24E to be turboed. So far I have started on the cylinder head and for anybody interested SI Valves has some good valve terrain components for both KA24DE and KA24E as well as many other applications.
I am using the "Swirl Polished" performance series valves. They have an undercut stem, Chromed stems & Stellite tips as well as fully swirl polished. Thier Manganese-Bronze Valve Guides are also high quality and awesome guides. The web site is: http://www.sivalves.com/home.html
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