New Garrett GTX2867r

[RalliartRsX]

Correction: I do not think he is on race gas. I hope he does have some sort of fuel octane boost (not the octane booster but say a premix of race/pump gas) or something if he is seeing those numbers on the Air Fuel

[BlackZenkiS14]

I am on 93octane, 740cc injectors, and 50/50 meth water injection with a 7gpm nozzle.

Still a little lean up top for my tastes.

I wasn't able to watch the wideband inside the car, because I wasn't allowed within a certain area around the dyno for safety.

But the dyno operator (driver) said the wideband in the car looked healthier and safer than the dyno readout. But didn't get into specifics, as this was just a quick dyno day, not a tuning session.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I am on 93octane, 740cc injectors, and 50/50 meth water injection with a 7gpm nozzle.

Still a little lean up top for my tastes.

I wasn't able to watch the wideband inside the car, because I wasn't allowed within a certain area around the dyno for safety.

But the dyno operator (driver) said the wideband in the car looked healthier and safer than the dyno readout. But didn't get into specifics, as this was just a quick dyno day, not a tuning session.

In my experience my in car wideband always reads richer than the dyno wide band that's such in the end of the exhaust pipe. But not by a whole point or more.
You should consider going to a M10 jet over 400hp and use strait methanol.
Methanol and water don't mix so your not actually spraying a 50/50 mix.

[bshotts]

Kyle, have you thought about adjusting base fuel pressure to sneak in some extra fuel up top?

According to RC engineering website calculator, you may be reaching max 740cc injector flow (100% duty cycle) around 380-400whp assuming 43 psi fuel rail pressure which looking at the dyno appears to be the case when A/F ratio really starts to rise rapidly. Again, according to their calculator, if you could bump base rail pressure to 48 psi, you should technically have enough to support 415-420whp range.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by bshotts

Kyle, have you thought about adjusting base fuel pressure to sneak in some extra fuel up top?

According to RC engineering website calculator, you may be reaching max 740cc injector flow (100% duty cycle) around 380-400whp assuming 43 psi fuel rail pressure which looking at the dyno appears to be the case when A/F ratio really starts to rise rapidly. Again, according to their calculator, if you could bump base rail pressure to 48 psi, you should technically have enough to support 415-420whp range.

With alcohol injection he can make much more than that. He just needs to stop doing the 50/50 mix..

[BlackZenkiS14]

Yea man, go EWG with the Cody setup, you'll be happy that you did. No creep at all here!

[KoukiMonsta]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Yea man, go EWG with the Cody setup, you'll be happy that you did. No creep at all here!

Only issue is that Cody hasn't been on here in a while and I can't get ahold of him hah

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

Only issue is that Cody hasn't been on here in a while and I can't get ahold of him hah

Shoot him a pm saying you want to buy a manifold, he'll respond. He's a busy guy to track down though.

[KoukiMonsta]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Shoot him a pm saying you want to buy a manifold, he'll respond. He's a busy guy to track down though.

I did, a week or so back. Not in a major hurry but ready to get the ball
Rolling. Sold my tubular mani and s14 t28 yesterday so it's on!

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

I did, a week or so back. Not in a major hurry but ready to get the ball
Rolling. Sold my tubular mani and s14 t28 yesterday so it's on!

He does get overwhelmed with PMs. Try again.

[e1_griego]

He says to shoot him an email: [email protected]

[angel mkiv]

Hey im about to start my sr20 with a brand new gtx2867 and threw away the paper that it came with that had the break In procedure on it.. I checked Garretts website and it says there is no break in procedure on the faq page but know that's not correct since I saw it myself when I bought the turbo..anybody still have that paper or know the procedure?

[jr_ss]

You more or less just need to verify you have oil flow to the turbo. I know they recommend a restrictor but I cannot remember the size right now. I've been told that if you have a -10an drain or larger you CAN get away with out one, but I'm not certain.

[Def]

BB Garrett's are about 0.035" give or take on the restrictor size.

[angel mkiv]

I already know the restrict or sizes and what not. I was just wanting to seeif someone still had the "Garrett install instructions" that come new with the turbo since it says the break in procedure on it.

[Def]

I'm pretty sure there is no "special" break-in procedure for turbos from what I remember of my new Garrett. Just check for oil, leaks etc. Drive them around at a low-moderate load for about 25-50 miles then they're good to rip.

New bearings are pretty tight, so a little bit of time cruising on them is good to let everything seat in under not a ton of load.

[lg54]

Hey guys im in the process of rebuilding my motor and updating my turbo for next years drift season. My car is a race car only. Currently i have stock bottom and stock top redtop s13. tomei 260 cams, 555 injectors, and hks2530 mated to a GP sports manifold, internal WG. With this set up i see 350whp it peaks up to 17 psi then drops to 14 (internal WG problem). My plans are forging the bottom end and building the top end, plus adding injectors and a GTX2867r. My goal is 400whp with quick boost. Will the GTX provide this reliably? 20-25 PSI? What if i want to grow lets say maybe 450hp? Will the gtx2867r let me do this?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by lg54

Hey guys im in the process of rebuilding my motor and updating my turbo for next years drift season. My car is a race car only. Currently i have stock bottom and stock top redtop s13. tomei 260 cams, 555 injectors, and hks2530 mated to a GP sports manifold, internal WG. With this set up i see 350whp it peaks up to 17 psi then drops to 14 (internal WG problem). My plans are forging the bottom end and building the top end, plus adding injectors and a GTX2867r. My goal is 400whp with quick boost. Will the GTX provide this reliably? 20-25 PSI? What if i want to grow lets say maybe 450hp? Will the gtx2867r let me do this?

I know this is kind of jacking this thread, but I would recommend an EFR 6258. The internal gate design is much better and they make 400whp at 21psi on SR20's with stock cams on pump gas. They also offer ridiculously fast spool and transient response. Just food for thought.

[BlackZenkiS14]

If you want 400hp+, dont waste your money on the top end and make sure you get at least pistons/HG/headstuds in there. 400hp is about the limit of factory pistons and head gasket, and you'll be flirting with failure at that power point.

But yes, at 21psi, I made 420WHP on S3 cams, GTX2867 and supporting mods.

But do at least a set of 740cc injectors, and spend the extra money and do the external gate.

[lg54]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

If you want 400hp+, dont waste your money on the top end and make sure you get at least pistons/HG/headstuds in there. 400hp is about the limit of factory pistons and head gasket, and you'll be flirting with failure at that power point.

But yes, at 21psi, I made 420WHP on S3 cams, GTX2867 and supporting mods.

But do at least a set of 740cc injectors, and spend the extra money and do the external gate.

great so i guess this is the way to go turbo wise. Also, no E85 where i live, so this will be 100 octane vp fuel.

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by lg54

great so i guess this is the way to go turbo wise. Also, no E85 where i live, so this will be 100 octane vp fuel.

Don't let others talk to you into a BW turbo. It's a bit expensive, and much more fab work needs to be done for correct fitment.

Is BW EFR turbo good? YES! But.... Too much mula (money)

I suggest the GTX2867r pretty straight forward for T2 bottom mount. In addition you will save money, and be stocked with the results.

Keep it clean and simple, GTX.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

I recommend the EFR 6258/6758/7163 as well, but BY ALL MEANS DO NOT GO BOTTOM MOUNT!!!

Unless you want to spend the big bucks going with a FR mani, good luck fitting the wastegate canister, the long tail end, the RV and the lines in such a tight spot.......

Ask me how I know

Haha, it's not THAT hard man. A little trimming on the block and a new downpipe.

Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg

Don't let others talk to you into a BW turbo. It's a bit expensive, and much more fab work needs to be done for correct fitment.

Is BW EFR turbo good? YES! But.... Too much mula (money)

I suggest the GTX2867r pretty straight forward for T2 bottom mount. In addition you will save money, and be stocked with the results.

Keep it clean and simple, GTX.

Saving money? How? A 6258 is $1650 with the high boost canister. A GTX is $1300 without turbine housing ($250) and you have to put an external gate ($270) and BOV with it to make it work right... There is nothing more simple and clean about a turbo with IWG and integrated BOV that functions perfect.

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Haha, it's not THAT hard man. A little trimming on the block and a new downpipe.





Saving money? How? A 6258 is $1650 with the high boost canister. A GTX is $1300 without turbine housing ($250) and you have to put an external gate ($270) and BOV with it to make it work right... There is nothing more simple and clean about a turbo with IWG and integrated BOV that functions perfect.

This is why people always disagree, SMH.

It seems like you are advertising this turbo, either way I don't care.
Say what you want to say I stand FIRM on simplicity, and more economically priced GTX set up.

[RalliartRsX]

I recommend the EFR 6258/6758/7163 as well, but BY ALL MEANS DO NOT GO BOTTOM MOUNT!!!

Unless you want to spend the big bucks going with a FR mani, good luck fitting the wastegate canister, the long tail end, the RV and the lines in such a tight spot.......

Ask me how I know

[RalliartRsX]

PoorMans180SX, I am going to respectfly disagree and unless anyone has attempted to install one, they won't know the trials and tribulations involved to install

I will say this now. For a straight bolt on and the Easy button out, GOT WITH THE GTX. Simple. For 90% of the people, the idea of transient response and boost recovery is not worth the extra entry cost (and in all honesty, if I didn't get an inside line, it wouldn't be worth it to me either for a bottom mount).

I have a full writeup of the install which I haven't posted on Zilvia, but I will give a quick breakdown

1) Off the bat, the compressor housing does NOT fit with a stock spec mount and bracket (read: Nismo mount and stock braket). You will have to either a) clearance the mount/bracket or b) get different mounts

2) The BOV (be it stock or Fullrace) will interfere with the water port on the block, regardless of if you have AN fittings, banjo bolts, etc ($$$$ + headache)

3) The Garrett lines, although compatible, probaby won't fit apart from the oil line considering the water line fitment issue and the eventual issue of clocking the turbo ($$$ for new lines + headache)

4) The oil drain will need either new fittings and lines as the Garrett outlet does not fit and interferes with the compressor housing (I ended up making a spacer out of SS or you have to spend $$$$ on new fittings and headache)

5) The EFR has a flanged intlet/outlet, meaning your clocking plates and adapters won't be compatible. Simple as getting a few new couplers and you are good to go, but again $$$$ and headache since it has to be clocked perfectly

6) The downpipe. The biggest part of the ordeal, this is going to be the biggest const incurred on fitment. Unless you have the meands, you will have to spend $$$$ on the flange as it is not a NORMAL V band, but a half Moon or Morman flange ($$$) then you have to get it fabbed up

Again, GET THE GTX OVER THE EFR IF YOU ARE GOING BOTTOM MOUNT!! Not worth the headache and cost incurred as even with buying the GT housing, the installation costs begin to skyrocket once all is said and done!

Sorry for the thread jack. Just want to make sure there is correct information out there.

I will post my write up later if you want Poorman, and send you a PM.

[lg54]

It seems pretty clear the way I need to go. I wonder what would be the differences between the GTX2867 and the all new GTX2871r.

[Def]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

PoorMans180SX, I am going to respectfly disagree and unless anyone has attempted to install one, they won't know the trials and tribulations involved to install

I will say this now. For a straight bolt on and the Easy button out, GOT WITH THE GTX. Simple. For 90% of the people, the idea of transient response and boost recovery is not worth the extra entry cost (and in all honesty, if I didn't get an inside line, it wouldn't be worth it to me either for a bottom mount).

I have a full writeup of the install which I haven't posted on Zilvia, but I will give a quick breakdown

1) Off the bat, the compressor housing does NOT fit with a stock spec mount and bracket (read: Nismo mount and stock braket). You will have to either a) clearance the mount/bracket or b) get different mounts

2) The BOV (be it stock or Fullrace) will interfere with the water port on the block, regardless of if you have AN fittings, banjo bolts, etc ($$$$ + headache)

3) The Garrett lines, although compatible, probaby won't fit apart from the oil line considering the water line fitment issue and the eventual issue of clocking the turbo ($$$ for new lines + headache)

4) The oil drain will need either new fittings and lines as the Garrett outlet does not fit and interferes with the compressor housing (I ended up making a spacer out of SS or you have to spend $$$$ on new fittings and headache)

5) The EFR has a flanged intlet/outlet, meaning your clocking plates and adapters won't be compatible. Simple as getting a few new couplers and you are good to go, but again $$$$ and headache since it has to be clocked perfectly

6) The downpipe. The biggest part of the ordeal, this is going to be the biggest const incurred on fitment. Unless you have the meands, you will have to spend $$$$ on the flange as it is not a NORMAL V band, but a half Moon or Morman flange ($$$) then you have to get it fabbed up

Again, GET THE GTX OVER THE EFR IF YOU ARE GOING BOTTOM MOUNT!! Not worth the headache and cost incurred as even with buying the GT housing, the installation costs begin to skyrocket once all is said and done!

Sorry for the thread jack. Just want to make sure there is correct information out there.

I will post my write up later if you want Poorman, and send you a PM.

To be honest, some of that same stuff will pop up on a GTX turbo in the place of a T25/T28. That said, I think most of the little fab jobs you listed aren't that big in the grand scheme of things, and pretty minor in the overall effort to make a reliable 400+ rwhp SR.

But I do agree that the EFRs offer enough packaging issues to make bottom mount an unattractive position for the majority.

Originally Posted by lg54

It seems pretty clear the way I need to go. I wonder what would be the differences between the GTX2867 and the all new GTX2871r.

The GTX 67 mm wheel is already more than enough for what the 53.8 mm NS111 turbine can power, a GTX 71 mm wheel is getting into really bad mismatch territory.

I'm not sure why Garrett seems to be going farther down the path of saddling their turbines with too much compressor wheel. They've always done that a bit more than other turbo companies, but now they're pushing it to the next level with billet wheels that offer 10-15% more flow in the same package with the same 20 year old turbine on the back end.

[RalliartRsX]

Compressor maps will answer that question

[Freddy]

Found info on a new turbo by Garrett the GTX2971R

GTX2971R

If you aren’t familiar with the Garrett nomenclature, then us saying GTX2971R is just a bunch of random letters and numbers. The GTX designates that the compressor wheel is a forged milled compressor wheel. The forged compressor wheels are much more robust and stronger than a cast wheel.

The 2971 indicates that the size of the charger is a 29 (no physical reference, it is just smaller than a 30 and bigger than a 28 series. The 71 represents the compressor wheel exducer. This is a huge key here because not all manufacturers identify the same part of the compressor wheel.

R represents that the rotating assembly is spinning on ceramic dual ball bearings in a water cooled center section.

When Garrett designed this turbocharger, they focused on quick response. So, while the turbine wheel is a little smaller than a GT3071, it has been optimized to flow more. So, the charger gets on boost quicker but can handle more flow at the top end. As a result, the GTX2971R can flow enough air to support 360 to 640 horsepower and it is recommended for engines ranging from 1.8L to 3.0L.

[angel mkiv]

Hey what clutch are you guys using? I ended up putting down 373rwhp and 315ft lbs of torque on a dynojet at 18psi with the .64 a/r turbo.after I got it tuned my throw out bearing gave out and ruined the forks on the pressure plate( act stage 2 6 puck sprung) and wanted to see what you guys are using? From what I have read it seems the exedy stage 2 is what most use...