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Old 01-03-2012, 11:56 PM   #9121
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Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
Yeah I just saw those legalities, so dumb. I would need to swap out the drier even if i stuck with the r12?

The reason I'm doing this is cause I have to replace the rad support, cut out the old one and stuff, and the condenser is warped so I highly doubt I'll even be able to use it again, but I don't want r134a to be honest.

But alright, I'll just use that damn thing.
Drier is just a cover your ass thing. While the system is open it's cheap to replace. The chalk in it absorbs moisture and can break down over time. Rather replace it then have one almost dead shit itself into the system down the road.

Just Evac the system take the condenser out and cap the lines. Do the repair then replace the condenser and drier and vac the system down and refill with the R12 you recovered.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:44 PM   #9122
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I would say it's DOA. There is usually a higher than normal failure rate for remans. Why they come with a warranty. Swap it out for another.

thanks im gonna take it off have them tested and get a new one sent if it is the regulator
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:39 PM   #9123
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I replaced my spark plugs and wires yesterday and in the process i noticed my distributor cap was crusty and ready to break. I connected the coil and part of the cap actually broke (still worked fine.). then i fired it up and it ran fine except for occasional spikes/dips in the rpms. I figured the dips in rpms were due to the cap being broken. Today I actually had trouble starting it (turned over wouldnt start) and figured it was still the cap. I got a new cap and rotor on and now it will barely start and if it does it runs super rough, or dies out. Do you guys think maybe I coincidentally have another issue or is this from the dis, rotor and plugs? I also adjusted the distributor but that made it worse, So i put it back to the same position. I have a feeling my timing could be off? Idk im stumped right now.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:43 PM   #9124
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Originally Posted by JKL1031 View Post
ayone know what size the nut for the EGR pipe that needs to be unbolted to clear the steering rack to pull the engine on an s13 header? A 24mm seems too big. Any other wrench i try is too small.
crescent wrench and a torch, have at it..
i always though it was a 24mm..
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:56 PM   #9125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Drier is just a cover your ass thing. While the system is open it's cheap to replace. The chalk in it absorbs moisture and can break down over time. Rather replace it then have one almost dead shit itself into the system down the road.

Just Evac the system take the condenser out and cap the lines. Do the repair then replace the condenser and drier and vac the system down and refill with the R12 you recovered.
ahh i see, yeah it makes sense.
i'll see if nissan still sells the damn thing

thanks s14db!
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:23 PM   #9126
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What could cause an SR to literally dump fuel into the cylinders?

I just put on my external wastegate, I double checked everything to make sure it was hooked up properly and when I started it up, it was dumping fuel like crazy. AFR gauge reading below 10:1

So I checked for leaks, found none. Checked fuel pressure, and it was solid.

I then got into my PFC commander and trimmed the fuel injectors from 68% down to 30% and it was STILL dumping fuel. I trimmed it down as low as it would go, 25%, and it leaned out and died.

Other than an O2 sensor and bad inejctors, what else can cause this?
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:46 PM   #9127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftN00b View Post
I replaced my spark plugs and wires yesterday and in the process i noticed my distributor cap was crusty and ready to break. I connected the coil and part of the cap actually broke (still worked fine.). then i fired it up and it ran fine except for occasional spikes/dips in the rpms. I figured the dips in rpms were due to the cap being broken. Today I actually had trouble starting it (turned over wouldnt start) and figured it was still the cap. I got a new cap and rotor on and now it will barely start and if it does it runs super rough, or dies out. Do you guys think maybe I coincidentally have another issue or is this from the dis, rotor and plugs? I also adjusted the distributor but that made it worse, So i put it back to the same position. I have a feeling my timing could be off? Idk im stumped right now.
did you install the wires in the right spots on the dist cap when you replaced it?
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:11 PM   #9128
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did you install the wires in the right spots on the dist cap when you replaced it?
yep firing order is correct.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:18 PM   #9129
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Anyone with a garrett GT2560r/GT28r know what the stock boost is using the actuator that came with it? Searched for the actuator part number 448734-5 and the range is from 5-7 psi depending on the vendor. Does anyone know what psi exactly?
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:23 PM   #9130
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Anyone with a garrett GT2560r/GT28r know what the stock boost is using the actuator that came with it? Searched for the actuator part number 448734-5 and the range is from 5-7 psi depending on the vendor. Does anyone know what psi exactly?
A stock actuator on a 2871r with no preload maeks about 8-9 psi
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:44 PM   #9131
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ok
back to step 1

talked to my boss
apparently it's not possible to recover r12 with a machine he uses r134a with, even if i used my own recovery tank...

suggestions?
searching this shit only brings up federal laws, EPA stuff
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:01 PM   #9132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
ok
back to step 1

talked to my boss
apparently it's not possible to recover r12 with a machine he uses r134a with, even if i used my own recovery tank...

suggestions?
searching this shit only brings up federal laws, EPA stuff
You have to use a R12 recovery unit. IIRC aren't even made any more. I assumed you had access to a R12 unit. You would fuck his machine if you jury rigged it to pull the R12 out.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:43 AM   #9133
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You have to use a R12 recovery unit. IIRC aren't even made any more. I assumed you had access to a R12 unit. You would fuck his machine if you jury rigged it to pull the R12 out.
fuck

i thought it was all the same shit, just needed diff tanks

i guess i'm going to lose my precious r12
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Old 01-05-2012, 02:47 AM   #9134
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i have some 15 in enkei 92 rimms with 0 offset and i wanted to install the 26mm z32 calipers in the front, would the brakes fit or do i need spacers or just bigger rimms?
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:00 PM   #9135
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anybody know what automotive store sells prothane super grease?
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:14 PM   #9136
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i need some help trying to pick a rear bumper for my vert. i have a pig nose with lip on the front and 180sx style sideskirts. i origonally was going to go with a rear lip, but its too difficult to find. i was going to build my own, but decided it was easier to just get a new bumper.....but what bumper would flow well??? i think a gs sport version 4 would fit, but i cannot find a place that even sells a replica or something simmilar. the other option ive been told would work is a version select 4 rear.
gs sport
any help would be appreciated. thanks


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Old 01-05-2012, 03:01 PM   #9137
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So I'm lookin hard into a RHD swap for my s13 and I'm needing some info like how much of the fire wall id have to hack up , how to keep itlegal as far as vin number goes and just tips for any thing that will help the swap go smooth.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #9138
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Quote:
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ayone know what size the nut for the EGR pipe that needs to be unbolted to clear the steering rack to pull the engine on an s13 header? A 24mm seems too big. Any other wrench i try is too small.
pretty sure its a 27mm
they never come out though, so you'll probably end up cutting it

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So I'm lookin hard into a RHD swap for my s13 and I'm needing some info like how much of the fire wall id have to hack up , how to keep itlegal as far as vin number goes and just tips for any thing that will help the swap go smooth.
you usually use the entire rhd firewall instead of cutting pieces off

vin wise, keep all the registration/papers for the rhd car, and either mount the US vin plate next to the jdm one or just drill out the jdm rivets and put your old car's plate on.

cops rarely even check there though, if ever
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:06 PM   #9139
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Are you talkin about the dash vin or the engine bay one
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:54 PM   #9140
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Are you talkin about the dash vin or the engine bay one
engine bay

if you were to replace any, the only important one is the dash which is as simple as drilling out the rivets on you usdm one, rivets on rhd one, switch, rivet
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #9141
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Has anybody ran q45 brakes up front & z32's in the rear?
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:21 PM   #9142
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what kind of wheels are these
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:35 PM   #9143
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I had two lifters come apart while trying to take them out. I got the bottom part of one out, the other the bottom is to deep in there to get any ideas for getting it out?

am I able to put these back together or do I need new ones?

also what are the disadvantages of having solid lifters in a DD?

its an s13 SR
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #9144
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What gives more horse power - an K&N sticker or an AEM sticker?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:29 PM   #9145
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fuck

i thought it was all the same shit, just needed diff tanks

i guess i'm going to lose my precious r12
As I said, crack the line, let it fly, and go 134a.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:45 PM   #9146
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what kind of wheels are these
kakimoto ngt (there is an identify this thread)
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As I said, crack the line, let it fly, and go 134a.
yeah i asked s14db about it. search didn't come up with much

this is gonna be a bitch
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:09 AM   #9147
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Does anyone know a good website to buy jam 180sx side markers? I checked TheNismoShop where I bought them previously. But I can't seem to find the on their website anymore. Anyone else have a good guess where to find them?
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:12 AM   #9148
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Are S13 redtops and s13 blacktops SR valve covers interchangeable?
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:15 PM   #9149
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Does anyone know a good website to buy jam 180sx side markers? I checked TheNismoShop where I bought them previously. But I can't seem to find the on their website anymore. Anyone else have a good guess where to find them?
saw a set on marketplace like 4 days ago
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:20 PM   #9150
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I know I asked before but now that my car is able to be driven, my parents think I'm going to crash, burn, and my car be ripped in half because I welded in a new subframe bolt. She thinks I can't drive anywhere without it being inspected, but since it's a unibody even IF it happens to break, I shouldn't crash right? I'm sure there's people driving around with a snapped stud before they found out.
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