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Old 01-23-2012, 07:11 PM   #9361
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Anyone run a Sparco Steering wheel spacer? I bought one off a member here with no hardware and im confused how its going to mount lol
installs like this:

Shifting Paddles for a Sparco Steering Wheel
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:19 PM   #9362
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Did some research and mine apperently isnt a Sparco spacer -__- it has 6 holes straight through it, no threads or anything. Thats why Im confused as how to install it. Unless I run super long bolth through my steering wheel into the hub...but then I couldnt use the 40 dollar TI Bolts i just bought for my wheel, and that would just be a stupid design :/
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:21 PM   #9363
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^^ that type of spacer installs with long screws. go to home depot and get some.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:24 PM   #9364
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SMH I may just sell it then or completley redesign it. nevermind found a nardi adapter ring thats double threaded I can use it to make shit work hah
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:02 PM   #9365
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Yeah, Nardi adapters are probably best for you then.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:41 PM   #9366
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My s13 has a full blacktop s13 swap (motor, tranny, ecu, harness). Would I be able to run a redtop SR motor in the car without changing anything or are there differences in the harness and ecu between the redtop/blacktop?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:43 PM   #9367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripSpec View Post
My s13 has a full blacktop s13 swap (motor, tranny, ecu, harness). Would I be able to run a redtop SR motor in the car without changing anything or are there differences in the harness and ecu between the redtop/blacktop?
You'd need a redtop ECU/harness to make it all work.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:10 PM   #9368
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You'd need a redtop ECU/harness to make it all work.
Wow I had no idea they would be that different. I thought everything was pretty much interchangeable. Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:30 PM   #9369
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Sell the wheels you have, and get properly sized/fitting wheels. 25mm spacer is already pretty knarley, and now you're wanting to put even more on it (lets assume a 10mm or 15 mm spacer)?? That's gonna look janky.

Atop of that, you're also going to need longer wheel studs to make your setup work. So if you're willing to spend 100 dollars in studs, and another 100 to 300 dollars for the bolt on spacers and the slip on spacers, why not just sell your wheels, and put it towards better wheels.
Well they are just stock 15" altima 5 spoke wheels. Just using them to clear z brakes and to sit a little more flush. Saving up for wheels. The front is nice and flush, but the rear not so much. It would be perfect with a 5mm slip on or a 30mm adapter. I'll just leave the 25mm's on there.

Also another question, in between shifts my redtop sr runs super rich. My UEGO will read around 14.7 but as soon as I start letting off it will start getting rich and when I let off completely it will drop down to the 12-11's briefly. When I get back on it the afr's will go back to 14's. I've heard this is normal and nissan did this to ensure smooth shifting.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:53 AM   #9370
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Anyone have Moog inners with PBM 10mm tie rod spacers? I was wondering if putting the spacers on leaves enough thread to safely secure the tie rods into the rack, using loctite of course.

I just realized I've been asking a lot of questions lately... Sorry, just wanna get my car all up and running before the spring hits.
Anyone at all?
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #9371
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are rear calipers the same for s chassis? like pass side and driver side? i had to use driver side for my pass side and it seems the ebrake works opposite. when its down the ebrake is engaged, when its up the wheel spins freely. only one way to connect the ebrake to the caliper correct?
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:38 PM   #9372
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Am I missing something? Or does no1 make after market Silvia s13 headlights like the kouki s14s from vertex?

They would sell more of those then kouki lights! I don't get it..
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:24 PM   #9373
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Brake lights do NOT work. Bulbs and fuse are fine. Looked underneath to check if the rubber stopper was broken and I found some electrical tape wrapped around the wires that go to the connector (I assume it sends the signal to the lights) and found this............. WTF



Is this wrong? As you can see there is a black wire soldered the the brown wire and another black wire from the connector cut and just chillin there...

Courtesy of the previous owner.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:18 PM   #9374
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Does anyone know if S14 base 15" wheels clear Q45 rotors? Specifically this wheel:

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Old 01-24-2012, 03:50 PM   #9375
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^^ Idk the specs of those but my 15" altima wheels don't clear z brakes. the rotor yes but caliper no
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:14 PM   #9376
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Sr20det bottom radiator hose should fit my ka24de right?
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #9377
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Yes. I think you just need to cut the ka24de hose a little at the top where it meets the thermostat housing. The top is completely different though.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:34 PM   #9378
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my 1995 S14 has what looks like is an OBD2 scan port on the passenger side. can i use a regular OBD2 scan tool to check the CEL?
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:45 PM   #9379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benarovi View Post
are rear calipers the same for s chassis? like pass side and driver side? i had to use driver side for my pass side and it seems the ebrake works opposite. when its down the ebrake is engaged, when its up the wheel spins freely. only one way to connect the ebrake to the caliper correct?
no, they are not universal
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:40 AM   #9380
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Has anyone ever used the autozone duralast s13 rear calipers? I've got some store credit and one of my rear pistons is seized
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #9381
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Has anyone ever used the autozone duralast s13 rear calipers? I've got some store credit and one of my rear pistons is seized
Yes, it is funny you ask because I just picked one up because my rear passenger side was leaking. I pain 50 i think and has not given me any problems
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:18 AM   #9382
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Yes, it is funny you ask because I just picked one up because my rear passenger side was leaking. I pain 50 i think and has not given me any problems
cool, its like 75 bucks or whatever for them then if you bring your old ones you get money back right? Cause I'd be able to get both for 40 bucks total after that. Which would be real nice.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:23 AM   #9383
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cool, its like 75 bucks or whatever for them then if you bring your old ones you get money back right? Cause I'd be able to get both for 40 bucks total after that. Which would be real nice.
Yeah you need to bring your old ones back to get back the core charge. I would hop on that if I were you. Thats a good deal.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:31 AM   #9384
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Yeah you need to bring your old ones back to get back the core charge. I would hop on that if I were you. Thats a good deal.
I'll pick them up later today while I'm in town. Thanks for the quick replies
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:37 PM   #9385
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Searched thread but didn't really find what I was looking for.

So my question is, is there a noticeable difference in ride quality between Stance GR+ and GR+ Pro coilovers. I will only be street driving and from what I've found on the interwebz people seem to think that the Helper Springs that you can get for the GR+ Pro's will help with track applications (which is usually why they go for the Pro's instead of the normal GR+) but won't make a difference on streets...but this was on a 350z. Anybody that has GR+ or GR+ Pro on an S13 have any input?
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Old 01-25-2012, 05:13 PM   #9386
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I had GR+ on my S14, they lasted for about a year (20k) and were blown.. But they rode pretty good for street use.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:55 AM   #9387
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ok my timing chain sounds like if its hitting my valve cover wat could it be and how can i stop it?
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:56 AM   #9388
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by the way its a ka24de in my s14
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:45 AM   #9389
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ok my timing chain sounds like if its hitting my valve cover wat could it be and how can i stop it?
They all do that. Its the chain guide. They have a plastic cover over the metal part that wears away. You can pull the valve cover and replace it.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:09 AM   #9390
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Anyone ever have trouble with their coilover perch nut coming loose, and the coilover loosening over time causing play in the front end and front end shake?

I have a set of older Tein HA coilovers, and my front driverside coilover keeps coming loose, and then causing play in the front end...any one deal with this also?

Simple fix?

(yes, I have tightened down the adjustment nuts using those perch wrenchs, multiple times, but it works its way loose)
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