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Old 01-30-2012, 09:47 AM   #9451
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Is there any way to clean a tubular exhaust manifold to make it look like new?
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #9452
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Is there any way to clean a tubular exhaust manifold to make it look like new?
you can polish it but i'm not 100% sure that removes the heat discoloration
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:57 AM   #9453
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Is there any way to clean a tubular exhaust manifold to make it look like new?
just heat wrap them. looks pretty good and will help out on temp under the hood.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:11 AM   #9454
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still trying to figure out if i should get diamond racing wheels. I know they're cheap and ugly to some people, but i'm a poor college kid and I think steel would hold up better than an xxr. Is the weight going to be a problem at all if I'm running 15psi on an sr20? I'm by no means an experienced driver so I don't have any driving on super light vs super heavy wheels.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:12 AM   #9455
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you should be fine^
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:14 AM   #9456
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do you know if they do make 17" ones? All I can see is people running 16's, and I have 6 17" tires in my garage which would be nice to use so I don't have to go out and buy new ones for 16s lol
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:16 AM   #9457
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Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
still trying to figure out if i should get diamond racing wheels. I know they're cheap and ugly to some people, but i'm a poor college kid and I think steel would hold up better than an xxr. Is the weight going to be a problem at all if I'm running 15psi on an sr20? I'm by no means an experienced driver so I don't have any driving on super light vs super heavy wheels.
Your currently running XXR? if your not having issue, then your should be fine.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:22 AM   #9458
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Originally Posted by Edwin562 View Post
Your currently running XXR? if your not having issue, then your should be fine.
no, im currently running stock. I had FN's 17x7. What I meant was steel will probably hold up better on the track/street versus XXR. I hear a lot of people saying they wouldn't run XXR on the track at all due to them being a knockoff wheel
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:30 AM   #9459
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Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
no, im currently running stock. I had FN's 17x7. What I meant was steel will probably hold up better on the track/street versus XXR. I hear a lot of people saying they wouldn't run XXR on the track at all due to them being a knockoff wheel
I ran XXR when i first started tracking my coupe. They held up pretty nice. But if you prefer steel wheels like diamonds then by all means go ahead.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:31 AM   #9460
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I'm also looking for some guidance on offsets and backspacing, because I know nothing about it and it's really confusing me lol. If they will make them, I want 17x9 F 17x10 R, and have no idea what offset and back spacing to get to fit on a stock body s13. I would prefer not to have to roll/pull but wouldn't mind it if needed.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:36 AM   #9461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
I'm also looking for some guidance on offsets and backspacing, because I know nothing about it and it's really confusing me lol. If they will make them, I want 17x9 F 17x10 R, and have no idea what offset and back spacing to get to fit on a stock body s13. I would prefer not to have to roll/pull but wouldn't mind it if needed.
Search around for wheel fitments. here are a few threads that you could learn a thing or 2.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/166626...1-dummies.html
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/129865-whee...s-no-post.html

if your going to run 10"s in the rear, you will have to roll or pull a bit. I did when i was running my XXR 962. 17" for me is the best size when it comes to track because its not too big or too small.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:14 PM   #9462
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The tires I plan to put on are 235/45/17 i believe... if i ran 17x9 +20 F and 17x10 +12 R would that fit with minor roll/pull and not look retarded? I swear there was a wheel fitment question thread, but I must be blind or making that up
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:40 PM   #9463
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Anyone know where i can buy a nissan sticker thats a weird size? 4 x 3/4". Something that looks like stock nissan. Something like this maybe without the red emblem.
What color are you looking for? Send me a PM, I can help you out. I need to cut some for some SE-R foglight covers so if you need stickers made let me know.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #9464
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Originally Posted by omii27 View Post
ima do a ka-t can i use q45 injectors or j30 injectors?
Yes but you'll need to compensate for them in a tune.

Truthfully I'd suggest STI or WRX injectors, as they are larger CC and more commonly available. (not to mention cheaper/newer)
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:01 PM   #9465
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question about tubs..
i got a new shell.. was going to put 18x8.5 +25 wheels on the front after i assembled it.. but i'd rather not cut anything if i dont have to.. will i have any turning issues? i plan on going as low as possible..
should i make tubs?
and i plan on getting a 10mm spacer down the road... what should i do?
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:30 PM   #9466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
The tires I plan to put on are 235/45/17 i believe...
Go for a 235/40/17.
There IS a wheel fitment question thread.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:19 PM   #9467
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Well, that's pretty dope.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:49 PM   #9468
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When I replace my shifter bushing and pull out my whole shifter assembly thing, will I need to replace some gasket? Or can I just use RTV or something..? KA trans.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:53 PM   #9469
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no gasket
no rtv

You only need a gasket if you are taking the the plate off the tranny. The shifter assembly can be removed after taking out the snap rings. Just replace them when you put the shifter back in.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:57 PM   #9470
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There is an inner shift boot that you may want/have to replace, but that's it.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:01 PM   #9471
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Is there a page/discussion about DIFFERENTIAL FINAL DRIVES on 240's?
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:04 PM   #9472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
no gasket
no rtv

You only need a gasket if you are taking the the plate off the tranny. The shifter assembly can be removed after taking out the snap rings. Just replace them when you put the shifter back in.
Replace them with new ones or just put the ones that were already there, back in?


Quote:
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There is an inner shift boot that you may want/have to replace, but that's it.
The one that's bolted to the actual chassis? If so, that one's all good.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:13 PM   #9473
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Back in.....
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:25 PM   #9474
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can the actuator from a GT2860RS fit on the stock T25??
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:01 PM   #9475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
Replace them with new ones or just put the ones that were already there, back in?




The one that's bolted to the actual chassis? If so, that one's all good.
There's another one that seals the shifter to the shift plate. It commonly tears. If it's not ripped then no biggie.
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:02 AM   #9476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
Replace them with new ones or just put the ones that were already there, back in?
i have an extra snap ring if you want it steve, it helps take the slop out of the shifter
instead of just having one, you double up on them. bought two new ones when i did my bushing/fluid, but only used one + old one.
the rubber boot is the one held with zipties on the actual shifter, it keeps dirt and grime out of the trans. the one bolted to the body is pretty much just noise suppressant and insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
The tires I plan to put on are 235/45/17 i believe... if i ran 17x9 +20 F and 17x10 +12 R would that fit with minor roll/pull and not look retarded? I swear there was a wheel fitment question thread, but I must be blind or making that up
17x9 would need a 5mm spacer in the rear, about 10mm for the front
17x10 +12 would need camber or a pull for the rear, should work up front, not too positive

my 17x10 +22 have about 3mm of poke in the rear, and hit the coilover in front
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:42 AM   #9477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Yes but you'll need to compensate for them in a tune.

Truthfully I'd suggest STI or WRX injectors, as they are larger CC and more commonly available. (not to mention cheaper/newer)

Ok will do lol i also need a maf would u or anyone noe witch should i go with z32 or sr20........unless anyone else has another option i dont noe about.........
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:00 AM   #9478
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Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
i have an extra snap ring if you want it steve, it helps take the slop out of the shifter
instead of just having one, you double up on them. bought two new ones when i did my bushing/fluid, but only used one + old one.
the rubber boot is the one held with zipties on the actual shifter, it keeps dirt and grime out of the trans. the one bolted to the body is pretty much just noise suppressant and insulation



Alright cool thanks man.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:12 AM   #9479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
17x9 would need a 5mm spacer in the rear, about 10mm for the front
17x10 +12 would need camber or a pull for the rear, should work up front, not too positive

my 17x10 +22 have about 3mm of poke in the rear, and hit the coilover in front
I guess my question is do I NEED a spacer for 17x9 F and 17x10 R with a pull/roll to avoid not hitting the coilover? I don't have a specific offset I want, and I'm not looking for super flush or anything. I just want low-ish offset and not hitting the coils
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:37 AM   #9480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
The tires I plan to put on are 235/45/17 i believe... if i ran 17x9 +20 F and 17x10 +12 R would that fit with minor roll/pull and not look retarded? I swear there was a wheel fitment question thread, but I must be blind or making that up
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Originally Posted by GL Chrillz View Post
I guess my question is do I NEED a spacer for 17x9 F and 17x10 R with a pull/roll to avoid not hitting the coilover? I don't have a specific offset I want, and I'm not looking for super flush or anything. I just want low-ish offset and not hitting the coils
Front will probably clear coils, unless you have some really bulky coil brackets. Rear offset would be better in the +20 to +30 range. It will more closely match the front wheel poke/flushness.
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