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Old 02-17-2012, 11:45 AM   #9721
terrence
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What would cause my front core support to vibrate really bad at idle?
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:33 PM   #9722
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Is a clutch disk totally fucked once there is oil on it?

My clutch slipped a little bit today, and I am afraid it might be my rear main seal leaking and causing the disk to slip. It cant be leaking that bad, cause its not dripping on the ground while parked for a while. But I have a Stage-2 Exedy clutch on my S13 SR Blacktop. With 3000 miles on the rear main seal and clutch.

Can I reuse this clutch after I replace the rear main seal if that is the issue?
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:38 PM   #9723
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if its on the friction material i wouldnt suggest it. its just like brakes, porous and would absorb the oil if left.

you can always put it back in though and see if it slips. just be prepared to pull it all back apart if it does
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #9724
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sr's don't use wet clutches so no sir it will not work properly anymore
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:26 PM   #9725
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will s13 hatch doors work on a vert?
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:51 PM   #9726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredP View Post
if its on the friction material i wouldnt suggest it. its just like brakes, porous and would absorb the oil if left.

you can always put it back in though and see if it slips. just be prepared to pull it all back apart if it does
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sr's don't use wet clutches so no sir it will not work properly anymore
Well, I just pulled the inspection port, and saw that there is NO oil at all on the flywheel, so that probably isnt the issue. Just gotta figure out why it slipped
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:20 PM   #9727
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throw out bearing might be bad

when i first bought my car the clutch started slipping and when i replaced it the clutch was still good, bearing was shot
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:49 PM   #9728
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Troubleshoot the circuit. Do you have power to the room lamp? to you have power then to the circuit itself? Continuity between the parts?



Check the wires to the starter, namely the signal wire. If that is 'good' then the only other thing to look into is the key cylinder. I'd put money on it being the wires to the start though.


It's supposed to old the o2 sensor plug connection. The 'harness side' sides over it and clips in.



Nothing bolts up perfectly. I personally suggest Altima Fans. Search them.



MIL on? Check the codes. You're in limp mode for sure.



Garrett should still have the information available, discontinued or not. Somethings tells me it's not a special wheel, but it's been almost 10 years since I looked into the specifics of them.



Crank that soulja boy, not the camber.



Anything over -3 in the front on street tires, anything more than -2 in the rear (on almost any tire) is too much.

Anything beyond that is the equivalent of guys wearing skinny jeans.
sigged.

eehh too long.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:18 PM   #9729
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Where can I get Garrett T28 Turbine Shaft Wheel Pulsar GTir turbo? Garage Life rebuild my turbo and they couldn't find turbine shaft wheel. Help me asap!
435406-0005 is the Turbine shaft part number.

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Old 02-17-2012, 06:13 PM   #9730
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has anyone seen a legit tomei type s fpr without the serial number on the back? i recently bought one from a guy locally, never used still in box, had intruction manual, 2x tomei decals, 4x fittings all teflon coated, the box looked perfectly legit but the fpr doesnt have a serial number and looks kinda dark
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:38 PM   #9731
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Can I replace crush washers on oil feed line (s13 sr20det bottom mount s15 bb turbo) without having to take turbo/mani off?
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:33 PM   #9732
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What size flux core wire should I use in my hobart to weld 16gauge sheet metal? I'm running whatever came with it now (.035 I think) and I blow thru really easy.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #9733
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whats everyones preference for chrome polish. i wanna polish my wheels up all amazing like (weds kranze) but dunno whats best to use
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:37 PM   #9734
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Quote:
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whats everyones preference for chrome polish. i wanna polish my wheels up all amazing like (weds kranze) but dunno whats best to use
polish does good shit to lackluster
if its really bad then wetsand with 2000 grit and then polish, by hand slowly
make sure its not clear coated
Quote:
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What would cause my front core support to vibrate really bad at idle?
bolts could have came loose for the headlight/horn bracket. otherwise that shit is welded in, if it came loose its rust
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:59 PM   #9735
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Quote:
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polish does good shit to lackluster
if its really bad then wetsand with 2000 grit and then polish, by hand slowly
make sure its not clear coated
theyre chrome, not cleared. they were rechromed before i bought them, and i want them shinier. just looking for what people might recommend for cleaning them up and getting them that nice chrome "ricer" bling. i've definitely seen what can happen to a chrome wheel when the wrong cleaner is used, hence why im asking
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:30 AM   #9736
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SR20 IACV plug has 4 wires, one of which is black. I found out while cleaning up my harness that the black wire is just cut off. Is it supposed to be grounded?

My idle is usually a bit high (~1.4k rpm). Could this be the culprit?
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:12 AM   #9737
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2 Questions:

1. My stock S13 blacktop is running really rich, drives fine just smells like its running super rich. How can I lean it back out not doing anything fancy and keeping it stock?

2. The engine makes an annoying ticking sound, a bit loud at startup then lowers once its warmed up. Engine runs fine though, what could it be?


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Old 02-18-2012, 01:46 AM   #9738
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^^ Running rich can be cause from a number of different thing. Maf, cts, tps, o2 sensor, leaky injector etc. I would first start by making sure your fuel pressure is set correctly and start trouble shooting from there

and where does it sound like the ticking is coming from. the head or block?
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:30 AM   #9739
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Quote:
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will s13 hatch doors work on a vert?
Coupe doors fit for sure. If they are the same as hatch doors, you should be golden
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:57 AM   #9740
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What year transmission is the TA71B #5 from??
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:30 PM   #9741
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what are these for? they're next to the fusebox of a KA24DE swapped 1990 s13


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Old 02-18-2012, 04:47 PM   #9742
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so i went to cut out my front frame rails to fix the rust, and pulled up the carpet and notice this https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...51828642_n.jpg

those holes let water in and i'm pretty sure the whole floor board is rusted. i could cut it all out and fix it with enough time, but is it worth it? I know most of you would buy a new shell but i don't have money for one right now, and no way to swap my motor over.
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:51 PM   #9743
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if you can do the work yourself, why not? price of some steel in that size isnt a lot and then its just your time with a welder
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:05 PM   #9744
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i have a little bit of 16 gauge in the garage right now, is that what people would use for such jobs? i've cut out some of the frame rail already and it seems to be in like 2 or 3 layers up at the very front of it of what looks like 16 or 18 gauge
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:14 PM   #9745
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i would use 16g personally, thats what i used on my tubs and the stock sheet metal cant be much thicker. just make sure the rust is completely gone
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:20 PM   #9746
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should i just cut it all out, weld the floor up and then do the frame rail?

also, what wire should i use? i have a hobart 140, no gas im using flux core. but the .035 that came with it blows thru.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:22 PM   #9747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost_Fiend View Post
^^ Running rich can be cause from a number of different thing. Maf, cts, tps, o2 sensor, leaky injector etc. I would first start by making sure your fuel pressure is set correctly and start trouble shooting from there

and where does it sound like the ticking is coming from. the head or block?
How do I do that? Do i need an adjustable fpr? and the ticking is coming from the head.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:24 PM   #9748
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yes your gonna have to cut it all out, and form a new floor out of what you have. as far as the rest of that, i have NO idea, as i dont weld
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:30 PM   #9749
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Quote:
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Can I replace crush washers on oil feed line (s13 sr20det bottom mount s15 bb turbo) without having to take turbo/mani off?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leung View Post
2. The engine makes an annoying ticking sound, a bit loud at startup then lowers once its warmed up. Engine runs fine though, what could it be?

TIA
You need to bleed the hydrolic lifters.
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Old 02-18-2012, 07:36 PM   #9750
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^ thankss!
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