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Old 03-08-2012, 01:26 PM   #9961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VNG704 View Post
There is a thread for fitment questions, but yes it'll fit, easily.

Hope this doesn't sound too smart-ass of me, but can't you just go under your car? Since you're making one, you can have it as wide or long as you like, within reason. As far as the mounting holes, you can see the screw holes on the xmember and by the radiator. oh and aftermarket sways will rub, atleast my whitelines did.
Normally yes id hop under my car, but its currently still in storage and I want to know a rough estimate of the size of sheet metal I'm going to need so I have everything ready to go.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:42 PM   #9962
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headlights go up but won't go down. just happened out of nowhere. i've done plenty of research and changed a couple parts. so far i've replaced switch on steering column, relays under hood, and the headlight button. no luck. anyone care to share some insight?
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #9963
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^ check the harness that plugs into the headlight button, a lot of the times some of those wires come loose or rip out.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:49 PM   #9964
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Anyone know what this is? Opened up the engine control harness and saw this and didn't know what it was.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #9965
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Loos like the oil.pressure sensor plug
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:18 PM   #9966
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I have a question about hub centric rings

I'm trying to fit xxr 527 17x9.75 that are four lug universal and they didn't come with hub centric rings at all. ive already broke 2 wheel studs and im tired of it. I'm trying to fit them on an s14 and need to know what size I need that will fit on my stock hub. any info will help thank you!
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:20 PM   #9967
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^not sure what your asking but the hub bore on nissans are 66. something and most after market wheels are 70 something so i would suggest buy some hub centric rings
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:08 PM   #9968
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Nissan stock is 66.1mm. My RPF1's are 73mm hub bore, so I just got 66.1->73mm rings.

I recommend metal ones, not the shitty plastic ones that end up melting to the wheels/hub from the brake heat. Touge Factory sells them for around 20 bucks I believe.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:04 PM   #9969
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Pulled my header off to see where my oil was leaking from. It is dripping into the header and out of the gasket an burning. The compression in that cylinder is 190 so it isn't the rings. My step dad said it might be the valve guides? Any ideas of anything else? It is also misfiring in that cylinder.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:45 PM   #9970
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Whats the size of the vacuum line that that goes to the boost source on on the wastegate actuator? Is it 1/4 line or 3/8s? T28 turbo stock waste being replaced with hks one
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:29 PM   #9971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
Nissan stock is 66.1mm. My RPF1's are 73mm hub bore, so I just got 66.1->73mm rings.

I recommend metal ones, not the shitty plastic ones that end up melting to the wheels/hub from the brake heat. Touge Factory sells them for around 20 bucks I believe.
you think it'll melt with daily driving? i doubt my brakes get the hot but idk
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:13 AM   #9972
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I'd rather not have to deal with it, and for 20 bucks it's whatever... plus, they're GOLD.


Anyway, I'm going to be making a bash bar for the front and rear of my car. I have a few questions.

1. Would it be better to mandrel bend the ends of the front bar, just have a straight bar, or could I just weld on extensions at an angle?
2. Is it safe to make a rear jack point from the bash bar? Right in the center, so I won't have to drive onto wood, and I can easily swap wheels at the track.
3. What size tubing should I use for F/R?

They're just gonna be single bars, nothing crazy. Gonna have someone I know do some of it, and also teach me how to weld, so I'll be doing a portion of it as well. So I just want something basic.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:29 AM   #9973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerth View Post
you think it'll melt with daily driving? i doubt my brakes get the hot but idk
I doubt it, ive never had a problem and my brakes caught on fire and smoldered for like 2 mins and rings were fine, it would take a lot of heat to travel all the way to it
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:30 AM   #9974
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with the plastics?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:46 AM   #9975
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quick question, i have an s13 sr20 with a rom tuned ecu tuned for 550 injectors, z32 maf, and a t28 the problem is my t28 is toast and i have a spare t25 in good condition my question is what will be the outcome if i use that t25?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:57 AM   #9976
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Anyone knows how the mounting points of the OEM cargo net for S14?

This is the cargo net I'm talking about.

One came with my car but I thought it was a kragen net. I just discovered it's a OEM but I don't see were it mounts. Google only provides me pictures for newer models like the Z's and the G's.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:16 AM   #9977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
2. Is it safe to make a rear jack point from the bash bar? Right in the center, so I won't have to drive onto wood, and I can easily swap wheels at the track.
i think your good

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Old 03-11-2012, 04:42 PM   #9978
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will a 6mm spacer be ok to use on stock studs? i dont plan on doing any hard driving or track use, just my dd
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #9979
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Does anyone make a universal intercooler similar to this in dimensions? Preferably with the outlets parallel to the core instead of pointed forward.



Also, would an intercooler of this size be a sufficient replacement for the stock CA18 or SR20 side-mount, if the turbo and boost are kept stock? I plan to mount it in front of the radiator, similar to the Max HMIC setup.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:28 PM   #9980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angelz365 View Post
quick question, i have an s13 sr20 with a rom tuned ecu tuned for 550 injectors, z32 maf, and a t28 the problem is my t28 is toast and i have a spare t25 in good condition my question is what will be the outcome if i use that t25?
It will be just fine. It's a MAF car, so long as the rest of the setup is sound (it seems) you'll be just fine and never know.

Quote:
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Anyone knows how the mounting points of the OEM cargo net for S14?
I truthfllly never knew they had one. I have one from an Xterra that I was going to adapt, but never did. Ended up taking bumper off, putting in two D links, and a strap to keep my little tool box centered.

Quote:
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Does anyone make a universal intercooler similar to this in dimensions? Preferably with the outlets parallel to the core instead of pointed forward.
Check ebay, but it's hard to find super short cores. Why on earth are you even wasting the time if the SMIC works?
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:30 PM   #9981
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For my s13 silvia conversion, should i pick up a used gtr grill or buy a new one on ebay? I only ask because I have seen soooooo many that warp and loose their shape. anyone gone the ebay route for this reason?

*disclaimer* I wont necessarily buy it on ebay if i can get a replica somewhere that makes them.

Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:52 AM   #9982
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Why on earth are you even wasting the time if the SMIC works?
To have tucked piping.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:01 AM   #9983
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I have been looking at white LM GT4's lately and I have noticed some are all white and some have the "forged" raised lettering in red. Wondering if one was was older an older version or what are the difference.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:21 AM   #9984
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Quote:
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will a 6mm spacer be ok to use on stock studs? i dont plan on doing any hard driving or track use, just my dd
I would not recommend it. As a minimum, there should be three threads holding the nut on the stud. You most likely do not have this condition met. I would recommend ordering longer studs. Best of luck!
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:37 AM   #9985
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I have been looking at white LM GT4's lately and I have noticed some are all white and some have the "forged" raised lettering in red. Wondering if one was was older an older version or what are the difference.
The "FORGED MONOBLOCK" lettering is on all LMGT4 wheels and it is the color of the wheel itself. Shown here...



The only difference with LMGT4 wheels is the USDM vs JDM versions. The USDM versions use different style center caps that are not compatible with the JDM variant and vice versa.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:47 AM   #9986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
I'd rather not have to deal with it, and for 20 bucks it's whatever... plus, they're GOLD.


Anyway, I'm going to be making a bash bar for the front and rear of my car. I have a few questions.

1. Would it be better to mandrel bend the ends of the front bar, just have a straight bar, or could I just weld on extensions at an angle?
2. Is it safe to make a rear jack point from the bash bar? Right in the center, so I won't have to drive onto wood, and I can easily swap wheels at the track.
3. What size tubing should I use for F/R?

They're just gonna be single bars, nothing crazy. Gonna have someone I know do some of it, and also teach me how to weld, so I'll be doing a portion of it as well. So I just want something basic.
mandrel bend, cold
jack point is safe, although it does have a little play it is pretty much like jacking it from the front

tubing IDK, ask Vinny at Destruction Warehouse

honestly, let someone who knows how to weld do it all and learn on something less important. why? cause if your welds break in an accident well there goes that, and now you have a pipe that can do what ever it wants getting pushed towards you
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:56 PM   #9987
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i was driving on the highway and this happened. no idea what went wrong. all the bolts broke off. the car can still roll. anyone know how i can fix this? do i need a new axle? the boots ripped so that needs replacing and i'd have to refill it with grease but what else, is their anything that should be inbetween the axle and diff?
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:02 PM   #9988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
The "FORGED MONOBLOCK" lettering is on all LMGT4 wheels and it is the color of the wheel itself. Shown here...



The only difference with LMGT4 wheels is the USDM vs JDM versions. The USDM versions use different style center caps that are not compatible with the JDM variant and vice versa.
Thanks that's the first close up Ive seen. The red lettering appear to be a sticker above the part I was talking about .
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:25 PM   #9989
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i was driving on the highway and this happened. no idea what went wrong. all the bolts broke off. the car can still roll. anyone know how i can fix this? do i need a new axle? the boots ripped so that needs replacing and i'd have to refill it with grease but what else, is their anything that should be inbetween the axle and diff?
on my stock s13 axles, the axle end has a cup that goes into the diff shaft thing. looks like a cone

if youre replacing the boot then why not buy the oreilly's replacement ones? boots are more suited for low cars
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #9990
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What speed sensor combination do i need to use for an rb25 tranny, with KPH cluster?
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