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Old 07-11-2013, 02:08 PM   #1021
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How bout u turn down the boost ? Raise it up when u on a good tire? How much power are u making?
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:29 PM   #1022
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460rwhp on pump gas. Currently I am running 275/40/17 Nitto NT05 and they don't provide enough grip at all. When they were new they were better, and if I spin them to heat them up I might be able to hook second gear when boost hits but I can only remember twice in the last 6 months when I have actually been able to get it to hook second gear on a freeway roll on, in the dry and in a straight line. 3rd gear is awesome; it will stick second gear and it's like a time warp.

Wheels are RPF1s and the 4 wheel alignment is set to road racing specs for maximum traction. Suspension is 100% SPL v5 with titanium hardware and new bushings. Rear end is a Kaaz 1.5, with z32 trans, xcessive motorsports driveline, JGS motor mounts.

I think the best it's gonna be is a 315/35/17 NT05 on 17x10 RPF1s.

Anyone here ran the Billet Specialties 17x11 rear wheels? 335/35/17 Hoosiers or MT ET Streets would be awesome for the track if I ordered the BS wheels with the proper offsets.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #1023
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i could dead hook in second on a 275/35/18 bfg at 500whp stock s14 vlsd
the "road race' alignment hurts it you want it to have positive camber when sitting so when the car squats it moves to 0 camber and puts more tire on the ground, softer springs and dampening with a slow rebound will help as well

with a road race style alignment it is mint to have maximum traction in the corners, negative camber sitting , take turn rolls on one tire and other tire lifts to have 0 camber in a turn, 100% opposite of what you want in a straight line

suspension setup is more important tha shoving more tine under the car

i learned a lot about making suspension work on my previous car 550whp civic, if that car will dead hook brake boosting 30psi from a 40 roll on a 225/50/15 bfg a 240 should be no problem since its not wrong wheel drive

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Old 07-11-2013, 04:53 PM   #1024
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I don't see 'hooking' in a 460whp rwd car with anything but a radial and is also cheap.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:22 PM   #1025
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I was on a bfg radial
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:31 AM   #1026
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can any body tell me what will be the response of pte6466 on completely built sr20det... any body using on sr20det ? if he can tell me where the spool starts and when it give full boost.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:19 AM   #1027
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that question can have 100 answers to many facters to consider, comp ratio, cam profile, intake manifold size, throtle body size,intercooler and pipe size, type of fuel ran,BB or JB turbo, exhaust housing A/R size, exhaust size,manifold design, head work, how agressive the tune is, and many many other things
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:50 AM   #1028
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madserv, there is a section for precision turbo owners in the Tech section.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/429924...rs-thread.html
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:32 PM   #1029
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Ive been making it a point to get to the drag strip a few times a year, just for fun and to change things up a bit, and finally Drag racing success!! finally got my 12's! Been chasing for a while. Yes, I know my R/T is terrible, I dont really care. I never try for good reaction times, and yes my 60' is horrible too...its what the car does on bald street tires and old dry road race slicks...oh well... Still got the 12.xx Ive been wanting!







Also did some hard parking at our last MDU pro am event because my arm was broken and in a cast...super bummed!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:43 AM   #1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madserv View Post
can any body tell me what will be the response of pte6466 on completely built sr20det... any body using on sr20det ? if he can tell me where the spool starts and when it give full boost.

look for my dyno sheet in here it will give you a idea roughly. I hit full boost about 5700. stock head just spring/cams built bottom.
e85 595whp 430ft lbs
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:26 PM   #1031
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She's all done. I've been driving her around for the last couple of weeks. First dyno session I ran into valve float at 5,500rpm. With the float it still made 630/650tq at 12psi with no timing or fuel adjustment. New springs are already in, still fixing a few things and taking it back with 20psi hoping to hit around 900-1000whp. Bish is scary, GT4788 turbo starts up at about 2,600rpm.. gotta love 370 cubic inches lol
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:02 PM   #1032
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx View Post


She's all done. I've been driving her around for the last couple of weeks. First dyno session I ran into valve float at 5,500rpm. With the float it still made 630/650tq at 12psi with no timing or fuel adjustment. New springs are already in, still fixing a few things and taking it back with 20psi hoping to hit around 900-1000whp. Bish is scary, GT4788 turbo starts up at about 2,600rpm.. gotta love 370 cubic inches lol
I imagine you will have back pressure issues. Especially with that down pipe. Sounds sweet though. What heads?
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:47 PM   #1033
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She's all done. I've been driving her around for the last couple of weeks. First dyno session I ran into valve float at 5,500rpm. With the float it still made 630/650tq at 12psi with no timing or fuel adjustment. New springs are already in, still fixing a few things and taking it back with 20psi hoping to hit around 900-1000whp. Bish is scary, GT4788 turbo starts up at about 2,600rpm.. gotta love 370 cubic inches lol
That shit is sweet
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:10 AM   #1034
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@SLO.....good God bro! Glad it is finally on the street. Sorry to hear about the valve float but once that is fixed and your at 20psi....bring a new pair of undies lol. Amazing work and congrats.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:19 PM   #1035
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I imagine you will have back pressure issues. Especially with that down pipe. Sounds sweet though. What heads?
No backpressure issues at all. That's a 4" downpipe. ETP tall deck, aftermarket casting heads.

Thanks 2muchboost, I'm already shitting myself at 700 lol.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:50 PM   #1036
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It'll get boring quick, then you'll have to up the ante. Everything looks great. I imagine that all the exhaust components are heat coated?
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #1037
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slow92; you need a shirt that says "got traction?"

What tires are you running? I am having enough trouble getting traction with my setup and you are pushing far more than my 2.0 liter turbo would ever generate on pump gas.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #1038
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Quote:
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slow92; you need a shirt that says "got traction?"

What tires are you running? I am having enough trouble getting traction with my setup and you are pushing far more than my 2.0 liter turbo would ever generate on pump gas.
Slo 240sx is the one with the turbo V8...
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:48 PM   #1039
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx View Post


She's all done. I've been driving her around for the last couple of weeks. First dyno session I ran into valve float at 5,500rpm. With the float it still made 630/650tq at 12psi with no timing or fuel adjustment. New springs are already in, still fixing a few things and taking it back with 20psi hoping to hit around 900-1000whp. Bish is scary, GT4788 turbo starts up at about 2,600rpm.. gotta love 370 cubic inches lol
That turbo looks fucking massive compared to the motor
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:00 PM   #1040
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@SLO.....what new springs are you going with?
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:33 PM   #1041
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slow92; you need a shirt that says "got traction?"

What tires are you running? I am having enough trouble getting traction with my setup and you are pushing far more than my 2.0 liter turbo would ever generate on pump gas.
The car is fully backhalfed with a Ford 8.8 4 link setup. Wheel tire combo is 15x10 Prostars with 325/50R15 MT ET Street Radials. At street tire pressure it still burned the tires off in first and second with 700hp.. I need to air them down and get them hot to get it to launch in first. It should cut 1.3x 60' once I tweak a few things. When I was making 600whp @10psi with my old setup it hooked hard in 2nd.



Quote:
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@SLO.....what new springs are you going with?
I originally went with Brian Tooley Racing max pressure springs but when I went to install them on my ETP heads they didn't fit. ETP/MAST heads are aftermarket castings with a .750" deck height compared to a stock head's 3/8" for high clamping load. This really helps prevent lifting the heads and pushing water when running 20+ PSI of boost. Because of the taller deck, the valve pockets must be machined deeper into the head, therefore not working with my heads. After speaking to Brian Tooley and Fraser at AES, they recommended I go with K motion springs from summit... and they only cost $100 shipped but WILL NOT work with stock casting heads. After the swap though, I felt like I gained 200hp lol.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:06 PM   #1042
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An didn't know you had the MAST heads....makes sense now. Dude your build is extremely Chuck Norris bad ass!
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #1043
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Slo, who did the 4-link setup?

We just picked up a really clean vert that I'm going to put one of our 6.0L turbo setups in with a 76mm and a RPM Level VI 4L60/65. Have a Ford 9" rear from another project that's at 35" width I think that I'd love to use, but haven't seen a backhalved S13/S14 to decide how much to cut yet.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:45 PM   #1044
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ya know...like 900-1000whp...nothing crazy.. GOOD GOD bro, that has to feel incredible.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:17 AM   #1045
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^^^believe it or not, on a setup like Slo's that isnt crazy for what he could be pushing out with that insane setup he has. Want to see the capabilities of a stock junkyard GM/Chevy motor check this link out, remember this is on a rather STOCK setup without much done:

Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine

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Old 07-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #1046
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An didn't know you had the MAST heads....makes sense now. Dude your build is extremely Chuck Norris bad ass!
Thanks!

Quote:
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Slo, who did the 4-link setup?

We just picked up a really clean vert that I'm going to put one of our 6.0L turbo setups in with a 76mm and a RPM Level VI 4L60/65. Have a Ford 9" rear from another project that's at 35" width I think that I'd love to use, but haven't seen a backhalved S13/S14 to decide how much to cut yet.
Jeff, I did the backhalf myself and it was relatively easy with decent fab skills. Eventually I am going auto as well and have been talking to RPM about their 4L80E with trans brake. Like 2muchboost said, the car is very mild right now; once I get it dialed in on high boost I'll have the power to break 8's if I can get it to stick.

To give you a rough estimate, I believe my rear end is 50" axle face to axle face. This is with a 10" wide rim and 5.5" back spacing. Typically brake off set is 2.5" for each side depending on what brakes you use (you specify your offset to the axle manufacturer) so that'll put you at 40" + brake hat thickness. You'll end up in the neighborhood of 40.5" give or take some factors and I think that is very feasible. This is assuming you are going to run something like a 12" rim with small backspacing. Usually step 1 is buy your wheel/tire combo, cut the fender wells and put the wheels where you want them to sit. The key is to blueprint the rear end inward from starting at the wheel bolt face. Since you have a rear end already you'll need to build outward and buy wheels to the fitment you want.

This is a simple guide to backhalfing a car. This is very close to how to do it for a S13/14.
http://autoweldchassis.com/Instruct.ivnu
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #1047
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Don't have any pictures but some numbers from the track before my SR blew. It is being rebuilt for a lot more power this time.

1st pass: 12.3 at 123 with a 2.x 60 foot on 275/50 Nitto NT555R drag radials.

On the 2nd and 3rd passes the clutch started slipping in 3rd and 4th. Best 60 foot was a 1.9. I need to set my launch control this time around. What are people setting two step at on drag radials?

I don't want to run slicks for my drivetrain's sake.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #1048
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I ran my first 1/8th mile drags today and got near zero traction. I would spin for almost the full 1/8th mile but it would hook third in the last few feet. Slowest times were 8.4s with my 2 best being 7.9s, with 2.0 to 2.1 60 foot times and reaction times between .1and .2sec. I have GoPro footage but it isn't edited yet. My 275/40/17 Nitto NT05s are shredded. Apparently someone stole the track's VHT so there was no grip. The faster bracket guys were complaining all day.

I think if I mounted some Mickey Thompsons on this thing and hit the tree right, better 60 foot times and 2nd gear traction might make my car turn some decent times. In my bracket I got a 4th today, and since it was my first bracket racing day ever, I had a good time.

I think drag radials are in my future, though I am not prepared to spend $1,800 on a set of Mazworks axles...
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:16 AM   #1049
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^^Not sure if you did the swap already but the Q45 (3.54 ratio) swap is super stout. I have yet to see someone break one of these with ONE exception and that was because the car was an absolute animal.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:10 PM   #1050
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I didn't do the Q45 swap. I have a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in an S14 pumpkin.

I asked my mechanic (240sx specialist) this morning and while there are guys who have done the Q45 swap, he said that there aren't LSD options for that diff like there are for the S13/S14, so most guys weld their diff and it becomes not so hot for driving on the street.

I would be fine with the gearing change as it would give my car more legs in the lower gears. Do you have a link to a thread that discusses this?
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