*Ask Broadfield*

[S14DB]

Any experience with the Alpine iLX-007? Thoughts?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Any experience with the Alpine iLX-007? Thoughts?

Every one of my employees, including myself, have one in their vehicle. It's a dream radio for the iPhone 5/6. You want a price

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Every one of my employees, including myself, have one in their vehicle. It's a dream radio for the iPhone 5/6. You want a price

I had been looking at the ICS-X7HD. I have a 4S so it won't work for me. My dad brought it up for his car. Have not been keeping upto date on the Carplay stuff because it doesn't support my phone.

How would you compare it to the AppRadio4?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I had been looking at the ICS-X7HD. I have a 4S so it won't work for me. My dad brought it up for his car. Have not been keeping upto date on the Carplay stuff because it doesn't support my phone.

How would you compare it to the AppRadio4?

I have no experience with the AppRadio4 yet... but I despise Pioneer radios and their crappy user interfaces. The mere fact that you have to turn a Pioneer unit off to access another menu worth of features... plain stupid. I can't think of one other piece of electronics on the planet that you have to turn it off to access a menu!?! However, since it's an Apple CarPlay unit, it will function for the most part like any other CarPlay unit.

[240sxDavid]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Every one of my employees, including myself, have one in their vehicle. It's a dream radio for the iPhone 5/6. You want a price

Idk about him but I do shipped to 90605, too bad there isn't as much support for android but features look badass

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by 240sxDavid

Idk about him but I do shipped to 90605, too bad there isn't as much support for android but features look badass

They are $549 shipped.

Originally Posted by 510n

Hey Toby, what's your opinion on using a Alpine KTP-445A Powoer Pack instead of a regular amp?

It's not even remotely close to a regular amplifier. I'm not sure how they get away with saying it's 45 watts RMS x 4. Considering their very own MRV-F300, that's rated at 50 watts RMS x 4, blows it away. If it's a matter of just not having the room for a regular amplifier, then sure, it's better than nothing. However, ARC Audio has some really small amplifiers... especially their new motorcycle amplifier coming out that is rated at 150 watts RMS x 4 and is tiny. ARC Audio is some amazing stuff at a really fair price. I pretty much just use Alpine for their head units and entry level subs. I use ARC Audio for most of my amplifier needs and Hybrid Audio for speakers. As for the Alpine 445A, I'm very disappointed every time I sell one and install it.

[510n]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

They are $549 shipped.



It's not even remotely close to a regular amplifier. I'm not sure how they get away with saying it's 45 watts RMS x 4. Considering their very own MRV-F300, that's rated at 50 watts RMS x 4, blows it away. If it's a matter of just not having the room for a regular amplifier, then sure, it's better than nothing. However, ARC Audio has some really small amplifiers... especially their new motorcycle amplifier coming out that is rated at 150 watts RMS x 4 and is tiny. ARC Audio is some amazing stuff at a really fair price. I pretty much just use Alpine for their head units and entry level subs. I use ARC Audio for most of my amplifier needs and Hybrid Audio for speakers. As for the Alpine 445A, I'm very disappointed every time I sell one and install it.

Glad I asked. I've been looking into upgrading the entire sound system in my 240. I'm not the best when it comes to wiring things up so I want to keep things as simple as possible. I'm currently running a Pioneer head unit on blown stock speakers, so as you can guess, it sounds like shit. I'll email you the details about what I'm looking for.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

It's not even remotely close to a regular amplifier. I'm not sure how they get away with saying it's 45 watts RMS x 4. Considering their very own MRV-F300, that's rated at 50 watts RMS x 4, blows it away. If it's a matter of just not having the room for a regular amplifier, then sure, it's better than nothing. However, ARC Audio has some really small amplifiers... especially their new motorcycle amplifier coming out that is rated at 150 watts RMS x 4 and is tiny. ARC Audio is some amazing stuff at a really fair price. I pretty much just use Alpine for their head units and entry level subs. I use ARC Audio for most of my amplifier needs and Hybrid Audio for speakers. As for the Alpine 445A, I'm very disappointed every time I sell one and install it.

Are these the KS mini's?

[510n]

Hey Toby, what's your opinion on using a Alpine KTP-445A Powoer Pack instead of a regular amp?

[KoukiMonsta]

Toby, what would you recommend for battery terminals? connecting to standard post style battery. thanks

[future]

There are tons of cool battery post in the stores or stereo shops!

[hpipro4]

How do you go about fixing a crack on oem chuki sideskirt?

[gbaby2089]

As an Alpine retailer, what are your thoughts on the CDE-W235BT?

I'm in the market for an inexpensive double DIN unit for my 2012 Fit, I'm a fan of Alpine, I'm just unsure about the aesthetic of a non-touchscreen double DIN. However, if its a quality piece....I may be swayed more easily.

[nissanhatchie]

Whats going on sir! First off, AMAZING machine and legendary work on it!

I was wondering if you would be willing to divulge a bit more information on how you did your rear quarter 25mm roll/pull? I am currently trying to make room for some new wheels on my 1992 Hatch that I have had for 6 years now. I am committed to keeping the quarters stock metal but need the extra room. I had rolled the quarters many years ago with my Eastwood roller and they are still clean/not dented etc. What I am wondering is how did you get the perfect arch/pull without getting all wavy? Did you have to cut or weld anything inside the wheel well? I have literally poured over every post you have made on your blog/nico/ and here trying do find out how you pulled it off lol. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[Broadfield]

Sorry guys, I have not been on here much lately. I'm not a vendor on here at the moment and I have really been trying to get Broadfield Customs to a level where it makes me enough income that I can quit my day job.

Originally Posted by ixfxi

Its 2015 and I'd like a status update with my LFA v10 engine project please...!

1LR-GUE or bust!

Dude, I shipped that thing out Priority Mail like ages ago.

Originally Posted by angel mkiv

Hey so about two years ago I purchased a viper remote start 2 way remote start kit from you worked perfectly always until this past year it sat while undergoing a full motor rebuild and engine bay shave/paint.now that I got it all hooked up and was ready to start it the starter would always have power at all times and wants to start..( the starter keeps clicking) and make sure by using a test light.no matter if the key is off and out of the ignition the starter still has power..I messed with it and pin pointed it to the alarm system..when I remove one of the alarm fuses, everything works like it should.also the alarm now doesn't work also...any suggestions on what's wrong? The remote doesn't communicate with the car also..

It's not uncommon that if you connect power to the battery, that a Viper remote start will try to start. As long as you have good battery voltage, have someone sit in the car with their foot on the brake when you reconnect the battery. This should keep the remote start from attempting to start. You said you tested it with a test light!?! What did you test exactly? What did it read?

Originally Posted by seagrasser

Ever try installing infinite baffle 8's in the rear deck of an S14? Would remove the factory amps and torsion bars and bottom mount. Your thoughts are welcome.

Sub in question is here

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...r-cone-woofer/

I don't know how much bass you are looking for, but 8's won't do much. On top of that, free-air 8's will be way worse than 8's in an enclosure.

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

How do you remove dynamat?

Pull it off!

Originally Posted by silnv

Still doing custom work? Have not seen you post in a long time. Possibly interested in having a Racepak IQ3 installed into a s14 cluster.

I'm doing more custom work than ever.... the very reason why haven't had time to post:

http://www.broadfieldcustoms.com/

https://www.facebook.com/BroadfieldCustoms

http://instagram.com/broadfieldcustoms

https://twitter.com/TobyBroadfield

https://broadfield.wordpress.com

Originally Posted by nissanhatchie

Whats going on sir! First off, AMAZING machine and legendary work on it!

I was wondering if you would be willing to divulge a bit more information on how you did your rear quarter 25mm roll/pull? I am currently trying to make room for some new wheels on my 1992 Hatch that I have had for 6 years now. I am committed to keeping the quarters stock metal but need the extra room. I had rolled the quarters many years ago with my Eastwood roller and they are still clean/not dented etc. What I am wondering is how did you get the perfect arch/pull without getting all wavy? Did you have to cut or weld anything inside the wheel well? I have literally poured over every post you have made on your blog/nico/ and here trying do find out how you pulled it off lol. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Slightly wavy wheel arches will happen... so will the crease above the wheel arch. I had the proper body work done to make it perfect... then repainted the whole rear half of the car. You can kind of see here before I lowered the car back down, where the outer edge isn't a perfectly smooth radius. I also had the infamous crease that runs vertical above the arch. I'm sure most would of found it acceptable, but I'm too damn picky.



As you can see in the next image, I also had a slight crease/buckle in front of the wheel arch:



Also, that outer edge wasn't razor edge perfect when looking down the side:



This is after body work and paint... 285 tire on a 18x11 wheel.

Its 2015 and I'd like a status update with my LFA v10 engine project please...!

1LR-GUE or bust!

[Bushido]

Broadfield, I want to change the brake hardlines on my firewall to AN fittings.

What kind do you think I should use?

Also, I want to do aluminum hard pipes to and from the radiator, how would you tackle that?

[angel mkiv]

Hey so about two years ago I purchased a viper remote start 2 way remote start kit from you worked perfectly always until this past year it sat while undergoing a full motor rebuild and engine bay shave/paint.now that I got it all hooked up and was ready to start it the starter would always have power at all times and wants to start..( the starter keeps clicking) and make sure by using a test light.no matter if the key is off and out of the ignition the starter still has power..I messed with it and pin pointed it to the alarm system..when I remove one of the alarm fuses, everything works like it should.also the alarm now doesn't work also...any suggestions on what's wrong? The remote doesn't communicate with the car also..

[seagrasser]

Ever try installing infinite baffle 8's in the rear deck of an S14? Would remove the factory amps and torsion bars and bottom mount. Your thoughts are welcome.

Sub in question is here

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...r-cone-woofer/

[hOngsterr]

How do you remove dynamat?

[silnv]

Still doing custom work? Have not seen you post in a long time. Possibly interested in having a Racepak IQ3 installed into a s14 cluster.

[Mister.E]

He still does custom work. i just saw a post by him on instagram. His IG user name is: broadfieldcustoms. You might be able to contact him on there.

[hOngsterr]

nice update.

but it doesnt fully come off.

so I've tried everything so im almost done with the rear hatch...

mineral spirits/scotch brite/scrapers lol

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

nice update.

but it doesnt fully come off.

so I've tried everything so im almost done with the rear hatch...

mineral spirits/scotch brite/scrapers lol

Sorry man, I don't know... I install the stuff for a living, not take it off. Have you tried a heat gun?

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Sorry man, I don't know... I install the stuff for a living, not take it off. Have you tried a heat gun?

Yeah, just makes matters worst.
But I meant my answer I found was to use mineral spirits and scrub/scrape away.

Nice updates on your ride btw.

[S14DB]

I found the dry ice method works the best on dynamat and similar products. The film backed stuff chips off and the foil backed sticks to the foil then.


Sent from my iFad using Crapatalk

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I found the dry ice method works the best on dynamat and similar products. The film backed stuff chips off and the foil backed sticks to the foil then.


Sent from my iFad using Crapatalk

With mine, it shattered to tiny pieces and and made a bigger mess as the butyl was warming back up.

So im straight up scraping the car and when it seems thin enough i scrub off with mineral spirits.

[pacotaco345]

Hey broadfield, I think I'm gonna go about refinishing my shifter trim and cluster bezel (s13). Thing is it already has at least 2 layers of paint on it, when I first got the car I painted it silver, then about a year ago I painted it black again, but it was a half assed job and now it looks horrible. When I started sanding the paint just loaded up the sandpaper and I would get irritated, or I would use sandpaper so coarse it would show up in the finished product.

What would you suggest from start to finish? Sandpaper, primer, adhesion promoter, paint ect. I'm trying to get as close back to stock as possible. Thanks!

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by pacotaco345

Hey broadfield, I think I'm gonna go about refinishing my shifter trim and cluster bezel (s13). Thing is it already has at least 2 layers of paint on it, when I first got the car I painted it silver, then about a year ago I painted it black again, but it was a half assed job and now it looks horrible. When I started sanding the paint just loaded up the sandpaper and I would get irritated, or I would use sandpaper so coarse it would show up in the finished product.

What would you suggest from start to finish? Sandpaper, primer, adhesion promoter, paint ect. I'm trying to get as close back to stock as possible. Thanks!

Sanding is really going suck... especially on the cluster bezel. If you do happen to use more of a coarse grit, then you need to work your way up to higher grits... no different than any other sort of body work. Heck, when I do plastic bonding on some of my pieces, I start with 24 grit and work my way up to about 120 to spray texture. If I'm doing smooth finish then I work my way up to at least 400.

The easier way would be to strip the paint with aircraft stripper or similar. The issue is, the stronger aircraft stripper will also melt the plastic if left on too long. However, weaker stripper may not get the paint off. So start with the better stuff and try not to let it sit too long.

Sanding old paint off on a piece that has nooks and crannies, recessed switch mounts etc is a total nightmare. Some of my customers that get a cluster want to know if they can simply send me their other already painted interior pieces to color match. They say: "it should be no big deal to just sand the old paint off real quick and apply new, right!?!" I say: "you have no frigging idea how much work that is!" Hell, it would be 5 times cheaper to buy the parts new from Nissan than to pay me hourly to mess with it.

Originally Posted by Dook-E

Do you know where to find a small fuse block with a 45A and another with a 75A fuse? I'm trying to clean up my fuse box relocation and i want to get rid of the factory fusible links and replace the current setup with something a little more compact installed where the air bag used to be.

Are you wanting something fancy like this? You can put whatever size fuses you want into it:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/pr...&CategoryID=13

Originally Posted by zfortune

Do you still sell Viper Alarms?

Absolutely!!!!

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Are you wanting something fancy like this? You can put whatever size fuses you want into it:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/pr...&CategoryID=13

Maybe something a little more budget friendly, LOL

I'm looking for something that is capable of at least 12VDC @ 100A. The largest fuse of the two is only 75A but i want a holder that is rated a little higher for that safe zone. It doesnt have to be terribly pretty because I'm going to be mounting them to some plexi in place of the S14 airbag; they will be covered by the dash.

Plus it will have to be able to take a smaller wire or ring terminal because those two wires actually arent terribly large.

The rest of the fuses will be going to this since it is only rated for 30A per circuit:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...4ZC7Q4MBVAPWZW