The Sr20/Sr22vet thread

[turtl631]

Oh he's well aware, we talk all the time. In the end I think a money shift with a transient overrev to 9600 may have caused some float. I've done a handful of track events with it but a few engine problems as well as having two kids since I've gotten it has cramped my style. In the end it's just been easier to take the daily driver out on the track...

The longer story is I bought the car a little over 2 years ago. I took it out on track once and the sweet custom lightweight alternator bracket broke, but I also Miss shifted and had that small overall. Car drove okay and got me home but I had cracked a few retainers. Kid was born, over the winter got the head fixed up or so I thought, and swapped to the z33 transmission. Last year tracked it a few times with some various issues with the tune. Def actually passed through town and we did some street tuning. Last event last year it was down on power. Had another kid this year and I couldn't get the car to start I ended up finding a damage spark plug on cylinder 4. Took the head off and majority of the intake valve guides head cracked off and the head has significant foreign object damage. So, I need a new head as well as two new pistons. With two kids under two it's a little hard to work on the car much less update a build tread on a dead forum.

[RalliartRsX]

So who here is running a EFR and a twin or single port TS gate??

I have a single port, and I suspect it is unable to properly control boost via solenoid. No matter what we did, it wouldn't do more than wastegate pressure.

Looking into a twin port now, but just curios as to why the single port wouldn't work .

[speedingmofa]

If it's unable to control boost, i'd expect the boost to keep creeping up. Your issue is the other way around.
Could that point out you have way too much backpressure? I.e. your turbine housing is too small? Maybe a backpressure gauge could tell you more whether that's your issue.

[RalliartRsX]

Its a T4 twin scroll, so 0.8 (or .93 as BW EFR measure it) turbine housing. We pulled the exhaust off from the cat back, so it was only downpipe, and still the same issue. So it wasn't a back pressure issue. We picked up less than 8WHP when we pulled the cat, so definitely wasn't a back pressure issue. And the same occurred.

Gate was just wide open it seems regardless of duty cycle. We could get it to spike mid range, but it always went back to wastegate pressure and tapered off by 7K RPM.

[speedingmofa]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Its a T4 twin scroll, so 0.8 (or .93 as BW EFR measure it) turbine housing. We pulled the exhaust off from the cat back, so it was only downpipe, and still the same issue. So it wasn't a back pressure issue. We picked up less than 8WHP when we pulled the cat, so definitely wasn't a back pressure issue. And the same occurred.

Gate was just wide open it seems regardless of duty cycle. We could get it to spike mid range, but it always went back to wastegate pressure and tapered off by 7K RPM.

You've removed everything post turbine, i.e. elbow downpipe etc. The issue usually never is there unless it's blocked.
I was referring to the backpressure between engine and turbine wheel. So pre-turbine pressure.

[RalliartRsX]

There shouldn't be. Its a Sinco custom top mount mani with I think 1.25 primaries. Its a semi equal length twin scroll manifold. Should be fairly uninhibited flow to the turbine.

[speedingmofa]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

There shouldn't be. Its a Sinco custom top mount mani with I think 1.25 primaries. Its a semi equal length twin scroll manifold. Should be fairly uninhibited flow to the turbine.

No, not the manifold itself.

To me it sounds as if there is something blocking you from making any more power. You said it yourself, it doesn't hold anymore than wastegate pressure. So something seems to be blocking the air coming out of the turbine, the pressure is strong enough to push against your wastegate spring, preventing the turbine from making any more boost.

Could it be that the turbine housing/wheel combination is the "blockage"?

You may want to check out this article: http://www.stavtech.co.uk/home/exhau...nes-never-good

[RalliartRsX]

I doubt its the turbine wheel as it's the same turbo setup evo boys have made 600+awhp on. So I doubt asking 450whp with of airflow is a limiting factor. Match bot states it should be good for an easy 450 whp

Also, we can get it to spike in the mid range, its just unable to hold the pressure the more revs we give it.

[S14rebuild]

You sure u have the wastegate/boost controller plumbed properly? How many ports does ur wastegate have?

[RalliartRsX]

So we checked a few times to confirm. I may actually swap the vacuum lines now that time home, but pretty sure they are ran correctly. We tried both the EFR and the MAC valve

Single.port internal turbosmart iwg75 gate

[kojiki88]

Hey guys quick question. Does the P12 Valve cover work on the P11 head? If so, would the P11 valve cover gaskets work with the P12 Valve cover?
Thank you very much for any input.

[RalliartRsX]

^Yes and No.

[kojiki88]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

^Yes and No.

Awesome, Thank you for the reply. I'll be getting P12 valve cover gaskets as well.

[kojiki88]

Sorry to bother everyone but I have another question. So I have finished setting up my motor, bled the coolant system and its maintaining a constant 158 degrees Fahrenheit.
Its running a Nismo thermostat, Clutch fan setup with a GKTECH fan.
Is it normal to see 158 degrees and not get any warmer?
Thanks

[Yellow4g63]

Did u drive it yet? Putting load on it will make the temps go up vs idle.

[wurley]

with the same setup, clutch fan +nismo thermostat, I dont see over 160 when im just idling

[kojiki88]

I drove it for the first time last weekend to my brothers house a few blocks away and it stayed at that temperature. I did not want to drive it too far in case something went wrong lol. I asked because it is running rich at idle (10.2 ) I thought maybe its running too cool with the Nismo thermostat and maybe had to put in an OEM thermostat. I am guessing the current base tune needs to be adjusted and leaned out a bit at idle.

[RalliartRsX]

160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car

[S13VE]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car

Dyno'd yet?

Work on mine is just about to begin finally

[RalliartRsX]

Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating

Wait until you turn the wick up... 3rd gear tailwag is intoxicating.

[S13VE]

Not even a single video clip....

[DoingOK]

Looking for some help with a SR20DET build please. After scouring the internet for hours, it seems that there is no specific numbering sequence that would help place the cam caps in the correct order. These caps were already removed and in a bag so I don't have the correct reference as to what order they go in. The last one with the oiling port is obvious as to its' placement and it looks like there are dimples punched in three out of four caps. It would be a guess as to where these fall in line. Any help or recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Hmmmm.....won't let me attach a pic.

[RalliartRsX]

All the cam caps are lettered (I for intake), marked with an arrow for direction and numbered on every single VE head.

Are you sure you have the correct caps?

[RalliartRsX]

P11 SR20VE cams is what he is referring to

[SidewaySSS]

Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?

[Def]

Originally Posted by SidewaySSS

Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).

This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.


The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.

Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).

The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.

[peglio]

Originally Posted by Def

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).



This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.





The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.



Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).



The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.

I have custom cams very similar profile to the n1 and an efr7670 going on mine , will post up the results when it’s mapped in the new year [emoji1360] hopefully should still be pretty responsive


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by Def

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).

This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.


The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.

Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).

The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.

Hey Def, I've been out of the 240sx game for a little due to life events but I'm finally planning on getting the whole VET/7163/CD009 build on the road again this spring. Just wondering where you wound up with yours since our builds are really similar.

My notes say I got 404whp at 20psi but I hadn't printed that dyno sheet so I don't recall the torque. Last pull I had printed out was 384whp/327ftlbs at 20psi. Spark started blowing out, things were getting real hot on the steady state dyno and I stopped my session. Have since installed the IGN1A coils but haven't made it back to the dyno. Torque was leveling off around 3900 and pretty flat till 7k (all I pushed it to with the blowouts).
Edit: Found an old post with the full numbers, 404whp and 338ftlbs at 20psi and 6500rpm. Clearly a lot more HP waiting to be had at the same boost just by revving it to 8K+.

[RalliartRsX]

^^^^None??