Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[ckw]

Quick question: I have a 98 S14 and is the pictured container the clutch fluid reservoir?

[e1_griego]

Yeah, that's the clutch master cylinder.

[ckw]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Yeah, that's the clutch master cylinder.

Very much appreciated =)

[silviaNC]

Whats the tiny hole between the left and right brake line holes( not counting the one with a bolt on it)

[angel mkiv]

does anybody know if you can fit 18x10.5 +15 work cr kai on a s13 for the rear with just a roll n pull?

[95s14silvia]

Hey guys so ive been registered for about a week and a half maybe two weeks and ive been active and commenting on others posts, but the system still wont let me make any posts and i have lots of parts i need to sell. Can anyone help me out?

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by 95s14silvia

Hey guys so ive been registered for about a week and a half maybe two weeks and ive been active and commenting on others posts, but the system still wont let me make any posts and i have lots of parts i need to sell. Can anyone help me out?

Need more to post in classifieds. Go look in this thread:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/21037...uidelines.html

[ReLiC]

Where does the stock sr20 harness get switched 12v for the o2 sensor?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Need more to post in classifieds. Go look in this thread:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/21037...uidelines.html

or better yet: http://zilvia.net/f/forum-suggestion...look-here.html

[alohallaround]

would s13 fb window visors fit on a s13 coupe? the coupe visors are just longer, am i right?

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by dontxploitme

hopefully i can get some help here.

i just finished my sr swap and the car starts but idles rough. if i give it gas it'll rev up slow and not very high (i assume around 4k but not sure cause i need to rewire the tach wires). i'm using the sr maf, 255 walbro, z32 fuel filter, everything is pretty much stock except i have a front mount intercooler and an hks ssqv.

things i tried:
-replace spark plugs
-replace bad fuel injector
-check all vacuum lines

things i'm gonna try:
-check fuel pressure
-check intercooler couplers to make sure there's no kind of boost leak
-clean maf
-check my grounds

is there anything else that could possibly cause this?
thanks for any help in advance

if it won't go past 4k rpm I would look at the MAFS and it's wiring.

Originally Posted by angel mkiv

does anybody know if you can fit 18x10.5 +15 work cr kai on a s13 for the rear with just a roll n pull?

Depending on tire size, how low your car is, how much camber, and how much of a pull, you can make that fit. There is a thread that is dedicated to wheel fitment if you want to do a search, you'll get a better answer. Or you can look for an online wheel offset calculator and do the math yourself.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by silviaNC

Whats the tiny hole between the left and right brake line holes( not counting the one with a bolt on it)

The two holes in the center have a dual purpose use:
1: ABS plumbing
2: Brake Bias Plumbing(The Cool stuff) If you have the small skills to maybe bend or hook up a bias control, you can bias your brakes slightly forward for corner grip, or you can bias it slightly rearward for drifting, or bias straight up the center for solid DD control. It's all a matter of hooking up the valve and driving the car('spirited') to find how it brakes, then making a SMALL adjustment, driving some more, repeat, until you have it wired

[I'm Redline]

OK, RE: RS Enthalpy ECU swap...
Is it a Skill level 1 job that is easily done in the driveway(I can find no clear R&R instructions in the service manual)?
What are the steps if so?

Is there anything IMPORTANT aside from the obvious DISCONNECT the battery that I need to know?

I think I found the ECU(Passenger side, in front of the door, stuffed up next to the glove box). I just do not want to screw this up, and I think I can do it myself as long as someone lets me know exactly what to do or if there is a link that shows the steps.

[7jpat]

i have no clutch pressure , i had a leak in slave cylinder so i replaced it , still nothing searched and found out i need to remove the loop ( aka damper ) done , but i still have nothing , no leaks any where else paddle drops to the floor like a fly , im wondering if its my master

[Nickys13]

Currently i have 225/40R18 92w. Can I slap on some 225/35R18 95w On a 18x7.5 rim?

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

OK, RE: RS Enthalpy ECU swap...
Is it a Skill level 1 job that is easily done in the driveway(I can find no clear R&R instructions in the service manual)?
What are the steps if so?

Is there anything IMPORTANT aside from the obvious DISCONNECT the battery that I need to know?

I think I found the ECU(Passenger side, in front of the door, stuffed up next to the glove box). I just do not want to screw this up, and I think I can do it myself as long as someone lets me know exactly what to do or if there is a link that shows the steps.

you have the complete enthalpy ecu to swap with your factory ecu? Not necessary but disconnect battery, swap ecu, connect battery, done.

Originally Posted by 7jpat

i have no clutch pressure , i had a leak in slave cylinder so i replaced it , still nothing searched and found out i need to remove the loop ( aka damper ) done , but i still have nothing , no leaks any where else paddle drops to the floor like a fly , im wondering if its my master

Bleed the system more, might take a long time. I had to bleed for a good bit of time.

Originally Posted by Nickys13

Currently i have 225/40R18 92w. Can I slap on some 225/35R18 95w On a 18x7.5 rim?

Can you? yes, but why.

[Nickys13]

Can you? yes, but why.[/QUOTE]


haha because free tire, maybe?

[headfirst427]

Car is stranded in garage, need help removing intake manifold! Everything I can see and get to is unbolted, lower moves around a lot but still doesn't want to come out... Anything hiding from me I may have missed? I searched many pages and other forums as well with no clear "watch out for this" advice.

Any help is appreciated!

[singlecamslam]

Can someone please give me the exact dimensions of s13 dual cam starter bolts? size, thread pattern and stuff. Thank you.

[black'N'proud]

Does anyone have expirence with forcewerkz kouki valnces, how they fit, how close to oem do they look and do they line up nicely with the oem jdm kouki rear bumper? I'm debating on selling my oem zenki valences to buy a set, pictures would be helpful.

just found the answer, incase anyone was wondering the same.. post #21-25 http://zilvia.net/f/chat/301737-kouk...hread-503.html

[bc.]

Originally Posted by dontxploitme

hopefully i can get some help here.

i just finished my sr swap and the car starts but idles rough. if i give it gas it'll rev up slow and not very high (i assume around 4k but not sure cause i need to rewire the tach wires). i'm using the sr maf, 255 walbro, z32 fuel filter, everything is pretty much stock except i have a front mount intercooler and an hks ssqv.

things i tried:
-replace spark plugs
-replace bad fuel injector
-check all vacuum lines

things i'm gonna try:
-check fuel pressure
-check intercooler couplers to make sure there's no kind of boost leak
-clean maf
-check my grounds

is there anything else that could possibly cause this?
thanks for any help in advance

Maybe you already did this, but reset the timing. It should be done at the beginning of start up anyway, 75% or SR's out there don't have timing set correctly, this combined with a bad maf could make shit run terrible

Originally Posted by angel mkiv

does anybody know if you can fit 18x10.5 +15 work cr kai on a s13 for the rear with just a roll n pull?

I just fit 18x9.5 +22 Rays on my s13 in the rear with as much pull as I could do before the kink shows up, do some math and decide for yourself. Keep in mind, if you had the same offset as me, you would be a .5" more poke, but as it stands, you would be poking even more. My specs: 245/40's, a little too big imo. camber likely between -3.0 and -2.0, good luck.

Pictures:

[e5s4y]

anyone know what rear rotors these are?

[e1_griego]

It's an ATE rotor most likely, but googling around it looks like they're on made from the front of a 240.

[tschmidt55]

those are ATE rotors, i work aat canadian tire in the parts, and we sell those haha

[tschmidt55]

quick question, its posted in the rb faq's but it takes way to long, im in a bit of a rush, i have a s14 shell with a rb25 motor rb20 transmission and a r32 rear lsd, i need a drive shaft, i heard from someone that a stock ka shaft will fit? will a stock rb20 driveshaft fit? or am i stuck getting a custom made shaft?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by tschmidt55

quick question, its posted in the rb faq's but it takes way to long, im in a bit of a rush, i have a s14 shell with a rb25 motor rb20 transmission and a r32 rear lsd, i need a drive shaft, i heard from someone that a stock ka shaft will fit? will a stock rb20 driveshaft fit? or am i stuck getting a custom made shaft?

All depends on if the trans is in the stock location. A lot of RB mount kits move the it back.

[Wyfe]

okay, the four brass colored brackets on the top are random ass brackets that go on the sides of the inside of the rear 300zx calipers, are these entirely necessary? i only have two out of the 4 i need, and the cheapest i can find a set for is $50 which is ridiculous. also, are the parts below (the triangular shaped plates) necessary? i don't see what function they could provide, and i've been told that they're just to help the brakes from sqeaking. i don't feel like spending $100 for useless plates and clips that supposedly don't help much anyway for the front and rear rotors i have just to prevent squeaking.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by Wyfe

okay, the four brass colored brackets on the top are random ass brackets that go on the sides of the inside of the rear 300zx calipers, are these entirely necessary? i only have two out of the 4 i need, and the cheapest i can find a set for is $50 which is ridiculous. also, are the parts below (the triangular shaped plates) necessary? i don't see what function they could provide, and i've been told that they're just to help the brakes from sqeaking. i don't feel like spending $100 for useless plates and clips that supposedly don't help much anyway for the front and rear rotors i have just to prevent squeaking.

The triangle shaped plates are not nesc. just get some disc brake quite if they have a squeaking problem.

As for the brass looking pieces, I believe they are used to help the calipers slide, there could be a problem if you remove them but i think you could test them out and see what happens. I doubt they would be an issue because mine always looked gunked up.

[grimm199]

Anyone know where to get these for cheaper? It would be close to $30 for four of these little fuckers from Courtesyparts. I don't NEED them, but she will be down for about a week and they seem like they're getting old.
INSULATOR-INJECTOR - 240SX (S14) 1995-1998 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

[Miguelone]

Originally Posted by grimm199

Anyone know where to get these for cheaper? It would be close to $30 for four of these little fuckers from Courtesyparts. I don't NEED them, but she will be down for about a week and they seem like they're getting old.
INSULATOR-INJECTOR - 240SX (S14) 1995-1998 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Are they cracked or damaged in any way? If not you don't need them but if it makes you feel better you might as well do it.