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Old 10-26-2012, 11:22 AM   #11941
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I just painted my car, (full windows out paintjob), anyways I ordered all new OEM mouldings for the car, but the front "Fastener" moulding did not come. I have the other front moulding however. The glass guy that pulled my windshield out said I dont need the fastener moulding, but I want to hear from someone who may have done their car, do I need to order the fastener moulding, or is he right and I really dont need it? Anyone know?
Bringing this to the next page so it doesnt get lost forever.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:16 PM   #11942
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Anyone know where to get coilover rear lower eyelet bushings and sleeves? I need to replace mine becuase one of my extended sleeves is missing. Thanks...oh and I searched for days...nothing.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:19 PM   #11943
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Well maybe my ka is broken somehow. But the butterfly mechanism is not there I got another ka to build and compared the intake manifolds. I looked it up on alldata and there is a tsb stating that in 93 model year it was removed. Meh I expected some flaming but I thought someone might know something here. I may have overestimated the knowledge level here.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:12 PM   #11944
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Okay so heres whats up. My 240 started to burn oil and it was running fine just alittle blue smoke, so i had posted a thread here not to long ago wundering what was wrong and i was told it was the pcv valve, so im going to replace the pcv valve on monday to see if it solves my problem, but then today it started to have a weird idle... after it sits at idle for over 30 seconds it starts to bog goes to 600rpms and drops to almost 200rpms like its about to die then back up(back and forth) then when i finally give it gas it lets out alot of blue smoke. shes only got 148k on her i really hope its not the piston rings.
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:33 PM   #11945
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Originally Posted by iRideFBMSR20det View Post
Yea I taught so, but it was worth a shot. I don't know your money status.
Umm yea why not. Just look on ebay. I found a hole front clip for like 1500 (well my friend found it a few days ago.) I bet if you keep looking a rear will pop up.
thanks. Found one in texas with front +engine and tranny
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Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz View Post
RPM Garage, he can get you pretty much anything you want. And usually his clips come with front, rear, drive shaft, dif, basically the entire car minus the rear cut.
and thanks even more. last question, you say minus the rear cut, I think you mean just what I'm lookin for, the rear body. but anyway, thanks Zilvia guys. Much love
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #11946
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I have a 3" Buddy Club Spec 2 on my 13. I noticed the pipe was really close to my diff. At times it rattles and gets annoying. Has anyone else had this problem?
I'm thinking of just wrapping the pipe where its hitting.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:20 AM   #11947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soryu View Post
^ would this noise sound like a fart can or straight pipe?
Nope. It should sound like a 240SX with a little higher pitch to the note and a small amount louder. The resonator is what removes the higher pitch from the exhaust note.
Since a 4 cylinder has a naturally higher pitch, I think this is heresy as applied to small bore's. Civics with bassy exhaust notes just don;t work in my world. ANY 4 needs to sound like a 4 which is why most of the 240 exhaust systems don't sound like Civics.
I have my perfectly good BOSAL manufactured OEM system sitting under my deck. My intent is to make a mandrel bend based system in 2.25" without the resonator and only a dual exit glasspack or maybe a disc based tip. I WANT that higher pitched small bore sound that a 240 has because it doesn't sound like a punk civic or a POS FWD whatever...

Windshiled Molding:
IF you have a windshield replaced and the shop says you do not need parts, CALL BS! If the car didn't need the parts it would not have them. Make them put the shit together correctly and if that means they need to BUY new parts because THEY broke shit taking it apart, MAKE THEM PAY FOR THE PARTS THEY BROKE and fix the shit RIGHT. Any shop that will fuck a customer over that way needs to be burned to the ground
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:33 AM   #11948
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GRRRRRRRR!

OK, car was running fine with a small exception of a hard start issue that has been resolved.
Three days ago, as I started it, the AC/Heater/Defroster, Clock, and Steroe ceased to function.

Checks show: All fuses to be in good working order with multimeter checks to insure total closed values

Question: Is the (I think it's called) TPS(a white box by the fuse box) done in?
Ideas? Experiences and found fixes?

The shop manuals don't show any of this, and I am not familiar enough with the system to do anything as applied to R&R...I do not want to replace good parts that don't need replacing

More Stuff: Guages work fine, they light up, show movement with rpm and speed well, odometer works fine, turn signals and high beams work, fogs and headlights work, just a dash gripe that I have heard may have something to do with a white box called a TPS or something like that
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Last edited by I'm Redline; 10-27-2012 at 10:36 AM.. Reason: more stuff
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:35 AM   #11949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stupidflanderz View Post
'Preciate the link, but this is a whole car and its worth 5x my bank account. My question wasn't "where are working s15's" but rather:
I have an S15 front, what are my options? Is there a such thing as people who sell s15 rears, or is it simply weld it to an s14 cuz theres no such thing
You won't get one, when cars are chopped up for front cuts the rear half is usually stripped of parts then sent for scrap, often times the vehicle has been in an accident as well. Welding a car together is pretty fucking stupid tbh Unless you spend similar to what that ones asking price is. 28K is steep for an S15 but considering you guys can't generally get them it's not all that pricey. Simply put, if you can't afford to do it properly, you can't afford to do it.

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GRRRRRRRR!

OK, car was running fine with a small exception of a hard start issue that has been resolved.
Three days ago, as I started it, the AC/Heater/Defroster, Clock, and Steroe ceased to function.

Checks show: All fuses to be in good working order with multimeter checks to insure total closed values

Question: Is the (I think it's called) TPS(a white box by the fuse box) done in?
Ideas? Experiences and found fixes?

The shop manuals don't show any of this, and I am not familiar enough with the system to do anything as applied to R&R...I do not want to replace good parts that don't need replacing

More Stuff: Guages work fine, they light up, show movement with rpm and speed well, odometer works fine, turn signals and high beams work, fogs and headlights work, just a dash gripe that I have heard may have something to do with a white box called a TPS or something like that
TPS is your Throttle Position Switch so it won't be that, how low is your car? Checked under the guards lately cus you might've chewed through part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the wheel well.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:55 PM   #11950
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would the original rims from a nissan z 1986 clear 300zx turbo brakes?
Im talking bout these

Thanks

Last edited by obarrera; 07-31-2013 at 08:08 PM..
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:14 PM   #11951
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Originally Posted by obarrera View Post
would the original rims from a nissan z 1986 clear 300zx turbo brakes?
Im talking bout these

Thanks
Are they 15's or 16's?

15's won't fit, 16's might depending on how close the face is to the hub.
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:09 PM   #11952
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Getting a lot of blow by out of my redtop sr20det, is the only ending to this is that my piston rings are done? Or could there be anything else to cause this? The last thing I did to the car was change my oil today and fuel filter..

Basically stock motor
Nismo fpr
Hks bov
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:17 PM   #11953
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What's the best way and cheapest way to ship a (pignose) lip? And also what dimensions and weight did you use? I read on a supra forum of somebody shipping a lip through usps for just $35! And I got a quote from greyhound for $65

Just trying to get a lip from the east coast.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:04 AM   #11954
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does anyone know where to buy stock cam bolts for the rear of the s13. i found a kit before with all 4 for 30 but i have been searching for a while and now i cant find them again
thanks
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:13 AM   #11955
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Im not sure, is there any way I can find out if they'll clear by doing certain measurements? Thing is, i can't try these wheels, I can't return them once i buy them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguelone View Post
Are they 15's or 16's?

15's won't fit, 16's might depending on how close the face is to the hub.
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:20 AM   #11956
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So what seatbelts will fit a s13 with the factory clips on the seat itself? I know s14 belts, and im not to sure about this one but would maxima seat belts work?
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:19 AM   #11957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lalo167 View Post
I have a 3" Buddy Club Spec 2 on my 13. I noticed the pipe was really close to my diff. At times it rattles and gets annoying. Has anyone else had this problem?
I'm thinking of just wrapping the pipe where its hitting.
No mummification on exhaust pipes!

I had a slight issue like yours. There is a hanger for the system right by the axle. Replace it with one of these:

Walker Replacement Exhaust Insulators 35750 - SummitRacing.com

This one 4" long insolator will solve the problem when you put it at the axle hanger position.

Hint: Use a bit of lithium grease in teh holes on the new one. Spray WD40 into the holes of th eold one. Get a short handled garden rake(hand rake from mom, g/f, ol lady, neighbor MILF) Use one tine to push into the hole where the hanger is and lever the old insolator off. The new insolator simply slides right on wit a bit of assistance. This will keep th epip about 3/4" off the axle and the rigidity of this insulator will not allow it to bump.
If you get a torch, you can even heat the hangers and bend them slightly to better position your exhaust within an inch or two left and right
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:24 AM   #11958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguelone View Post
TPS is your Throttle Position Switch so it won't be that, how low is your car? Checked under the guards lately cus you might've chewed through part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the wheel well.
It's DD height. The current springs are stiffer with a slight drop so the wires out front are not an issue wiht any interference. I know it's not the dash wiring. I read somewhere(I think NICO) that when this happens from age or someone changing the stereo(in this case, maybe, older model CD player), or alrm system, there is a small component that may get blown that is by the fuse box.


I am trying to unf&^k this myself so I donl;t have to pay Nissan or some other mechanic to go through my wiring...I dont have a lot of time right now due to the homework load at school
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:18 PM   #11959
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How are you guys with S13s mounting your 4 point harnesses without cages?

I'm particularly interested regarding the mounting of the bottom left belt seeing as the seatbelt buckle is on the seat rail rather than on the chassis.

Running Bride Vios 3 + Takata harness (4+2 point but won't run the bottom 2 points unless I can find a way to do it properly.)
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:35 PM   #11960
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Can someone give me the size and thread pitch of the tranny crosmember bolts, the ones that bolt into the body. These bad boys.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:39 PM   #11961
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m10x1.25 I think.

quick search: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/174020...ml#post1786348
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:47 PM   #11962
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Can someone give me the size and thread pitch of the tranny crosmember bolts, the ones that bolt into the body. These bad boys.
haha mine is missing two bolts also haha idk if its safe
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:25 AM   #11963
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how you do you run over -6 degree camber in the rear of an s14? I maxed out at -5.5 with pbm ruca and some toe rods.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:12 PM   #11964
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Originally Posted by UGLYLOWLIFE View Post
how you do you run over -6 degree camber in the rear of an s14? I maxed out at -5.5 with pbm ruca and some toe rods.
Modified/adjustablle LCA's
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:59 PM   #11965
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Hey guys, two questions:

1) Are the KA and SR starters interchangeable?

2) I have a 98 S14 in MT. Whenever I am finished parking (and while my engine is still running) and when I restart my car after a short stop, the idle oscillates between ~600 to ~800 rpm and slowly levels off at the proper idle. Why does it do that and how do I fix it?
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:46 PM   #11966
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automatic on head lights

Did any s chassis come with automatic on headlights I'm more specifically asking about the 95-98 models.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:21 AM   #11967
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Well I'm out of ideas. Jar checked absolutely fucking everything. Ok I'll try and cocain what's going on.
First it started off with an EGR vacuum leak. Took th intake off, did an EGR delete. I also did the PCV delete and routed a catch can. Put stock 232/232 cams back in, and timing was dead set. Eventually Put it all back together, and got it running. The next day, I went for a cruise with my buddies. Well, I got over excited and was running the car kinda hard (100mph runs). Got a couple miles down the road, and while on about 1/4 of throttle, I feel the car cut off from power. Lasts for about a second, then kicked back in. Did it again, and then I heard it backfire. So I shut the car off and was rolling down the road. Tried starting the car, and it started, but it would idle under 500 rpm and if I gave it gas, it would kill it. Finally stopped and opened the hood. There was oil coming out of the valve cover a little, so I check my oil. It was still about halfway so it was good. Then I noticed coolant was sprayed all over the corner from the overflow tank. Felt the intake, and it was burning hot. I figured I over heated it because we forgot to bleed the coolant. I let it sit for about 30 minutes and then tried it again. No bueno. It would just go to 2-300 rpm and try and idle. It would die after a couple seconds. Well we had to tow it home. Got it to the house but we couldn't get it in the garage because my driveways on a pretty steep hill. Well a couple days ago I went out there and started the car it was holding idle, but still really really low. The only way I could get the car to move was to just let out the clutch. If I have it gas it died. SOMEHOW I managed to get the thing up the driveway and in the garage. I checked everything I could think of. TPS, Timing, MAF, etc. I had my buddy come over and he said my lower timing chain may have jumped? My question is, if it jumped a tooth or two, would it cause it to run like this? Or can they even get out of sync? The upper chain is tight when we have checked it, feels new. We might open the valve cover back up and watch the cams and move the camshaft and see if there is any slop in the chain for it to have jumped.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:04 AM   #11968
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Also, specifically for manual S14s, what is the difference in length between an ABS driveshaft and a non-ABS driveshaft?
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:24 AM   #11969
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Also, specifically for manual S14s, what is the difference in length between an ABS driveshaft and a non-ABS driveshaft?
The back half is 1" shorter on ABS cars.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:43 PM   #11970
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Im switching my fuel lines to AN lines and I am wanting to confirm that the stock hardlines are 5/16 and there for I would need a -5AN tube sleeve? from there I am running a -5 to -6 adapter to -6an line
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