Keep it Simple, Stupid... S13 Coupe Drift Turd

[tb13]

Originally Posted by Alex Mcknz

Looks like a clean build. Why did you install two different types of wheels?

The wheels for this car are in a million pieces waiting for paint/polish/new hardware, just running what I have around with tires for now.

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

For a dyno session while the car is still undergoing prep, does it matter??

lol!

Great build dude. Keep it up!

Honestly I kinda expected failure when it went to the dyno. I'm just happy I have a useable map I can run once the engine is sorted.

I didn't had the printout from the dyno the other day, but here it is. Not sure what to make of it tbh. Still have no idea what turbo is on the car, CHRA part number doesn't match anything I can find online. Wish the boost graph was on there, but it made 8psi pretty early and held strong to redline without any creep. I think this turbo and the DE cams will be very nice once its in the 14-18psi range.



If you find an engine abandoned in a storage container with oil filter on it, its probably not the deal you were looking for. The cam wear I found when I pulled the valve cover off originally didn't inspire confidence with this long block, but I decided to take the risk and dress/drop the engine in. With fresh VR1 and good oil pressure it sounded very happy, I was pretty confident that the bottom end was in okay condition. Well lets say I should have taken the time to dig a bit deeper because shes done for. Dropped the oil and its painfully obvious there is bearing failure. Going to need a full tear down, clean out and rebuild.



I was happy to see the drain plug didn't pickup much magnetic material, hopefully this means the crank is going to be okay.



Now I am at the cross road of building this bottom end and I'm really having a hard time figuring out how I want to do it. I know my thread title says "Keep it simple", but I have a hard time doing that when I have a choice.

- Easy and cheap way is OEM+ type rebuild, clean it all up, fresh OEM main/rod bolts, OEM bearings, OEM pump and re-use rod/pistons. Car made great vacuum, decent power at 8psi and had no blow-by or oil consumption so running the original pistons and rings shouldn't be an issue. This does severely limit power potential though, our piss 91 pump gas is going to stop me around 300whp and still probably be pushing the limits of what the stock pistons can handle.

- Forged internals brings a lot of extra cost and labor to the assembly, but will give me the room to make more power and be able to use it as I grow with the car. Really leaning toward building it simply because I don't want to put the work into a stock rebuild just to end up limited if I want more.

Opinions? Thoughts?

[tb13]

Got to work ripping the car apart today. Didn't have an extra pair of hands out with me so I just prepped it to pull, but I did take the turbo off so I can have it cleaned out.




Made an executive decision that the S13 is going to borrow the Z32's SR for the time being. Its going to take some time to get another engine together so I may as well put the build engine I have to use. Really excited to finally see this engine running and its going to make the S13 an absolute animal!

Run down on the engine is:

S13 SR20DET block
WPC treated crankshaft
WPC treated Nissan OEM main and rod bearings
Nissan OEM oil pump w/ WPC treated gears
CP 86.5mm 9.0CR pistons
Manely Rods
Sianar Motorsports -10AN breather
Nissan OEM main bolts
Nissan OEM timing components
ATI super damper

180SX head ported & polished by Port Flow
Ferrea dual valve springs
Ferrea +1mm valves
Dual guides
Tomei 260 procams
Apexi head gasket
Mazworx ARP Headstuds
S13.5 valve cover w/ -10AN fittings







Since the G25-550 setup currently on the built SR has an exhaust suited for the Z chassis, I'm going to run the Tomei manifold and HKS turbo that were on the S13 with it. Separated the turbo and manifold, manifold was covered in some nasty heat wrap that was falling apart. Got it all stripped off and covered myself in fiberglass nastiness. Thinking I'll have it ceramic coated before it goes back in to manage heat in the bay without needing to re-wrap it. Turbo came home with me to be dropped to a local and have it torn down, cleaned and to see if it needs a rebuild after being pumped full of bearing material

[PoorMans180SX]

Damn that's a bummer about the bottom end. Yeah no magnetic material is a good sign!

That other SR sure is gonna be snappy though! Wish I could afford to put Ferrea stuff in mine before it goes back together. Oh well!

[TheRealSy90]

New motor is going to be awesome. I'm jealous of all the WPC parts! I asked mazworx about doing wpc if I send an engine in for a build and they said it wasn't worth it -_-

[tb13]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Damn that's a bummer about the bottom end. Yeah no magnetic material is a good sign!

That other SR sure is gonna be snappy though! Wish I could afford to put Ferrea stuff in mine before it goes back together. Oh well!

My head is way overbuilt for either application, but I am really excited to see the power it will make!

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

New motor is going to be awesome. I'm jealous of all the WPC parts! I asked mazworx about doing wpc if I send an engine in for a build and they said it wasn't worth it -_-

I'd really love to know why they don't think its worth while. Any friction reduction on moving parts seems like win in the event of dropping oil pressure.

[tb13]

Okay, so some progress has been made since the SR committed seppuku.

Engines came out of both cars and I started tearing down the knocking SR. Found even more bearing material in the pan, but other than that everything looks really good.






Wiggled the rods around and #2 wasn't having it so I pulled the cap to find this wonderful sight under it. Bearing is torn apart almost to the shell, but was not spun and the crank looks okay. Engine had great oil pressure and fresh VR1 in it, I'm sure I this saved it from completely killing itself. Looked into the markings on the bearings, they are eBay special trash someone must have slapped into the engine.





The HKS turbo went out for a rebuild to get all of the bearing material out of it. Local friend took care of the rebuild and was able to get a slightly bigger wheel stuffed into it while it was apart. While it was apart we figured out its some odd sized GT25, not sure what its going to be capable of, but seeing it make 230whp on 8psi gives me hope it will be able to make mid 300's with the boost turned up and the new wheel.




Before the turbo setup went back on I wanted to address the hardware and wastegate. Ordered some nice studs and copper locking washers to hopefully keep the gaskets intact. Also picked up a PBM cobra downpipe to have a flex section in the exhaust.




Original wastegate wasn't going to cut it for this engine, was planning to just order a 1 bar Garrett replacement, but this compressor housing mounting points are different from T28. Ended up going with a Tial 12psi IWG actuator and adjustable mount from ATP. Seems like it'll do the trick after I remove a bit of material from one of the ears on the compressor housing.




Cleaned the lower pan in the parts washer and made sure to get all of the junk out of it. Threw the Z's engine up on the hoist and swapped the pans. I hate leaving an engine swaying away, but I was too lazy to pull the clutch and put it on a stand. Engine is pretty much ready to go back in the car, hoping this next weekend it'll be in place!




Since I can't find anyone to buy the RG's, I figured I'd get some smaller tires on them and run them. Found some tires cheap on closeout through work and snagged a set. Moved from a 265/35 to a 235/40, fitment is way better, need to work out front fitment a bit still though because I'm hitting the firewall at partial lock. Thinking it has something to do with these GKTech RCC blocks pushing the bottom of the wheel out way too far.

Car looks goofy as hell with the front so high and no kit. I actually sold the kit that was on the car and ordered some new hotness that should show up in the next few months!

[dazed]

Originally Posted by tb13

Ordered some nice studs and copper locking washers to hopefully keep the gaskets intact.

Dig this build thread. Do you remember where you got the hardware from? I looked and couldn't find the same ones.

[tb13]

Originally Posted by dazed

Dig this build thread. Do you remember where you got the hardware from? I looked and couldn't find the same ones.

Thanks! All of it came from Belmetric

https://belmetric.com/nuts/copper-exhaust-nut/

[PoorMans180SX]

I know a thing or two about one step forward, two steps back! Haha. Looks good as always though, it'll be interesting to see what that turbo does.

[tb13]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I know a thing or two about one step forward, two steps back! Haha. Looks good as always though, it'll be interesting to see what that turbo does.

Seems like I'm stuck in a loop of one step forward, two steps back Its the little things that can bring the entire process to halt...

Wastegate fitment is worked out, ground down the ear it was hitting on the compressor housing and everything lines up pretty well. Threw some compressed air into it and everything moves freely.

Drilled and tapped a 1/8NPT port into the turbo outlet for boost reference, decided to put it low on the outlet to keep a clean look. Really happy with it overall, need to throw some heat sleeve over it, but its got some good clearance from the manifold as is.





Intake manifold went back on the engine, hopefully for good this time. Fuel rail is back on with the Radium DMR and ID1050X's, really love how the short ID1050 and radium rail look on the Greddy manifold. Again I'm running more push lock fittings for vacuum to keep everything easily serviceable and reduce the need for zipties or clamps.



Got an Xcessive (short) shifter relocation for the Z32 trans, instructions kinda sucked. Got the old linkage cut off, pressed the little needle bearing caps out with the vice and it went on perfectly. I love the FS5R30A feeling and I shouldn't need to mess with or worry about this setup.

[PoorMans180SX]

You're telling me man, story of my whole life :P.

Now I'm wishing I would have gotten that direct mount FPR, that thing is slick. Oh well, haha. Definitely shield that plastic tubing well, we had plenty of cars come through the shop with holes in the blocks from melted or popped off wastegate lines. "It felt so fast" lol.

[tb13]

Engine is in the car, finally. I have been kicking sand and working on my WRX recently so the 240 hasn't seen much love. Had some small issues fitting everything in with the Z32 trans, but it ended up just being a bolt sticking through the trans tunnel. Mazworx transmission crossmember and Xcessive shifter bracket put the shifter right where it needs to be which I couldn't be happier about!






Picked up another set of 17x9 GT-R spec Panasports. These are cracked/bent to hell which makes them perfect candidates to re-build for the S13! Going for a 17x9.5 for the front and 17x10.5 for the rear, plus the pair of 18x10.5 for the rear.



I bought a 3D printer a while back and have been playing with it a bit recently. Since the S13 will be getting new fuel lines from the tank forward, I wanted a more elegant solution for line routing. Figured P-Clamps would work, but since I have the printer I wanted to try and make some proper line holders. This is the first "Prototype" i have printed, copied the size of the original metal brackets, made it a bit thicker, two 14mm holes and a counter bore for the mounting hole to accept an M6 cap bolt. Really happy with how it turned out, going to clean up the edges, make the top removeable and print the final parts from ABS.





Hoping to spend some more time with the car this week/weekend and maybe get it started for the first time!

[Krusty_s13]

Hell yeah! The posibilities with 3d printers are so good! Can't wait to see it done.

[tb13]

Originally Posted by Krusty_s13

Hell yeah! The posibilities with 3d printers are so good! Can't wait to see it done.

The possibilities are near endless, even for someone like me that has no idea what I'm doing! Here is the "Final" version I'll be test printing tomorrow from PLA before trying to move to ABS.

[tb13]

Revised my fuel line retainer again and came up with a much better looking design that is significantly more functional. Used the original retainer/metal bracket to model this part and ensure there won't be any fitment issues against the bottom the the chassis. This design is meant to use a metal zip tie to hold the upper and lower halves together, snugly clamping the hose. For the final part I wanted a much stronger material than basic PLA, upgraded my 3D printer to allow higher print temperatures and made a test part from reinforced nylon/carbon fiber filament. Part came out awesome!




With knowing the design was going to work, I revised the part one more time and added the brake line provision. Final part has a slightly revised fillet around the channel for the zip tie to allow for a cleaner print with less overhang as well. Will be making some of these tomorrow and test fitting them on the car!





Also finally set the car on the ground with an engine in it and the RG's on, seeing it at the correct ride height gets me more hyped to work on it!

[tb13]

Rainy day gave us a break from the summer heat and I decided to work on the S13 a bit.

First up was installing a pair of PBM Super Angle Knuckles to get rid of the GKTech RCC kit. Super stoked on these, no more issues with wheels hitting the fender/bumper/skirt and a good bit more useable angle.






Since the RCC kit is off, car lost about an inch of track width. Might need to make a pair of extended LCA's to make up for it, but we'll see once I get the wheels built.




Scored a Tomei Strut bar off YAJ recently, was itching to see it on the car, but things didn't go as planned. Its hitting the valve cover and fuel pressure regulator. Not sure if I am going to try to figure out a way to make it work or if it'll end up as wall art for now...




The Z32 harness I had seems like it'll work perfectly in this car, have to make a few changes, but overall everything fits. Exciting seeing it in the bay, not much left before I can start this for the first time!



Shifter setup for the Z32 transmission is done as well. Mixed and matched a few bits to avoid moving the shifter position and it worked out well. Maxworx adapter/crossmember/shifter and an Xcessive "short" bracket puts the shifter in almost the stock location and feels great.



Also decided to throw a pair of my 3D printed fuel line holders under the car with a few random AN lines to see how it all lined up. They are perfect, clips onto the brake line, firmly hold the -6an braided lines and sits nice and high to keep everything safe under the car. Considering re-designing them one more time to use a bolt to clamp the two halves, but I'm not sure if it will be as secure as the metal ziptie. Ignore the awful hardware, I haven't ordered the correct length cap head bolts.




Revised the intake setup a bit after removing the MAF, sits nice and tight to the frame rail.



The car without a kit was making we sad so I decided to pickup another DMAX Type 3 kit. Really love how this kit works with the aggressive Type 3 overs.

[e30gangsta]

Build is looking good. You should try making more of those brackets and selling them in some form of fuel line kit. I would buy a set if it was like -8/-6.

[RalliartRsX]

R.I.P Z32 lol

This thing looks $$$$!!

[tb13]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

Build is looking good. You should try making more of those brackets and selling them in some form of fuel line kit. I would buy a set if it was like -8/-6.

Thank! I'll be updating them to support -8 feed when I get some extra time. Currently experimenting with different ways to secure the top half, once I have something I am happy with I'll make some sets and throw a feeler out!

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

R.I.P Z32 lol

This thing looks $$$$!!

The Z32 will be completed at some point, just not sure what I want from the car overall. Trying to save some of my extra pennies to buy a house is keeping me from focusing on more than one project right now, even though I am juggling restoring the new Z32 I picked up haha

[tb13]

So should I change the title of this thread now?

Picked up my BN Type 2 Onevia kit yesterday and did a little test fit today. Blown away by the quality compared to the rep kits I've owned previously, wish I had got a hood to go with it.

Huge shoutout to the Mastermind NA team for being very helpful and working with me to pickup on a weekend!




Also picked up another Z32 recently, not a car I am going to mess with much, but I threw some Advan Model 6's on it and have been cruising around town in it recently. Really gives me motivation to work on the S13 and maybe get back to my other Z32 soon.

[jr_ss]

Got some cool stuff going on in here. I?m watching this thread?

[S13project]

Radium has a fitting for mounting FPR to rail that allows it to rotate, could help Tomei fit.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by S13project

Radium has a fitting for mounting FPR to rail that allows it to rotate, could help Tomei fit.

He could also feed the rail from cyl #4 and put the regulator out front. That would be my first choice next to a piece of SS tubing bent to get the rev out of the way.

[tb13]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Got some cool stuff going on in here. I?m watching this thread?

Thanks! Hopefully everything will come together and live up to all the cool bits!

Originally Posted by S13project

Radium has a fitting for mounting FPR to rail that allows it to rotate, could help Tomei fit.

Originally Posted by jr_ss

He could also feed the rail from cyl #4 and put the regulator out front. That would be my first choice next to a piece of SS tubing bent to get the rev out of the way.

The regulator came with the fitting to rotate it around, if I swivel it I can probably get the clearance I'd need and be able to leave it at the back of the rail. Should put the outlet facing directly down too which would make for clean fuel line routing, win win there!

S13project, I sent you a message back, those spacers you make should be perfect to space it up and get everything mounted up!

[tb13]

Huge shout out to S13Project, Tyler and Koru Works for sending me some strut tower plates to space up my Tomei strut bar! It nearly clears now, going to hit the lettering with a die grinder to give me a few mm of clearance and we will be sitting pretty! All of the mounting plates were dropped to powder coat today with some other stuff to clean up the look overall as well.






Decided a while back that I wanted to ditch the GKTech outer tie rods I was running due to them not only hitting the LCA at lock, but also seizing up with barely any actual driving time on them. Moved to some OEM replacement Moog S14 outers and PBM extended inners, this gives the clearance needed inside for 17's up front, no more contact with the LCA and I can keep an extra pair on hand without a massive added cost or hassle of setup!

Also really happy with the PBM Super Lock knuckles, wish I had opted for these out of the gate! Still a bit more I can get out of this setup with moving the rack and running a lower offset wheel, but this will do great for now.




With my outer tie rods sorted I threw the Advan Model 6's onto the car as the rollers until the Panasports are finished. Actually really like the look of these on it, will probably end up getting them refinished and holding onto them for spares



Another little detail that has been driving me mad is the throttle cable bracket. I have a little fabricated one that kind of works, but looks awful and needed to be spaced up to have the correct angle. Worked out a 3D printable part and mocked it up on the manifold. Angle was a bit off still, but it looks miles better and once printed from the reinforced nylon should be plenty stout to hold up on the car long term. Final part is ready to print, just waiting on some hardware to mount it up!




Unrelated, but I got the CRP Z32 back on the ground again in a roller state. Poor car has been neglected for far too long, will be getting a much needed wash this week and a few more parts ordered so I can get it back on the road until I have a complete, drop in ready, zero frills swap ready for it!



Pretty much a wrap, was eaten alive by mosquitos and sweat my balls off, hopefully the weather will be kinder and I can make some real progress soon!

[S13project]

Originally Posted by tb13

So stoked it spaced yours up enough that once you grind down the valve covers lettering it will actually clear and sit proper!!!!

My S13 oil pan is sitting little over 1/4" above the subframe. The S14 SR is on Nismo mounts and I would need to lower the motor 1/2" to have a couple mm of clearance for Tomei brace....rather keep the Tomei oil pan sitting where it is. Will live vicariously through your setup.

That throttle cable bracket is super clean! Definitely would love to buy one from you for my other setup. Also interested in the AN/brake line mount deals. Hopefully can widen the inner hole to -8AN for my feed line.

[jr_ss]

What did WPC treating run you for those parts? I’ve been contemplating sending the new VET oil pump out for WPC along with cams and other components for my big power build.

[tb13]

Originally Posted by S13project

So stoked it spaced yours up enough that once you grind down the valve covers lettering it will actually clear and sit proper!!!!

My S13 oil pan is sitting little over 1/4" above the subframe. The S14 SR is on Nismo mounts and I would need to lower the motor 1/2" to have a couple mm of clearance for Tomei brace....rather keep the Tomei oil pan sitting where it is. Will live vicariously through your setup.

That throttle cable bracket is super clean! Definitely would love to buy one from you for my other setup. Also interested in the AN/brake line mount deals. Hopefully can widen the inner hole to -8AN for my feed line.

Keeping your oil pan out of harms way comes before a strut tower bar every day, totally understand that! Can't wait to see it on the car once the end plates are re-finished.

I'll sent you some fuel line brackets and a throttle cable bracket once I get them completed. Shoot me a PM with the diameter of the -8an line you are running and I can re-draw the fuel line bracket and send you one to test since I don't have any -8 on hand!

Originally Posted by jr_ss

What did WPC treating run you for those parts? I?ve been contemplating sending the new VET oil pump out for WPC along with cams and other components for my big power build.

I don't remember exactly, but for all of it I think I spent around $400. Felt it was completely reasonable for the benefits it offers long term or in a situation when oil pressure isn't optimal. I have seen a friends engine torn down after years of abuse and all of the WPC treated parts were like new still, really great to see when considering the reusability of parts for refreshing/rebuilding without sourcing new.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tb13

I don't remember exactly, but for all of it I think I spent around $400. Felt it was completely reasonable for the benefits it offers long term or in a situation when oil pressure isn't optimal. I have seen a friends engine torn down after years of abuse and all of the WPC treated parts were like new still, really great to see when considering the reusability of parts for refreshing/rebuilding without sourcing new.

I do not disagree, just curious. The pricing structure isn?t unreasonable, the cost of shipping is!

Carry on!

[TheRealSy90]

Every time I read your thread I regret not WPC my parts. My bottom end it all assembled already since i just had a machine shop do the work.