Just another Lexus v8 into an s13 Build

[jo_nathon]

Will do. I'm getting really excited about doing the swap.

[Fries]

Congrats man. I knew you'd get it figured out! Cannot wait to see a video of you tearing around in this thing!

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Fries

Congrats man. I knew you'd get it figured out! Cannot wait to see a video of you tearing around in this thing!

Thanks man. Class is done in 2 weeks so I will have time to finish it.

Any progress on your s14? Seen that you took it back out.

[psi999]

Well done mate, what a mission!!

[badass8]

I've had some Tundra headers for awhile that were custom made, so I decided to test fit them today.



Cleared the frame rail and steering shaft just fine!


Now my passenger side is pretty crammed with lines. I have some options: I can bend the fuel lines which is annoying doing it on the car, I'd love to flare the fuel lines and do custom steel braided lines through the trans tunnel, or just cut the fuel lines a little and use rubber hose so it hugs the frame staying away from the headers. Tell me what you guys suggest.

[Drifting Kalamari]

I had no issues bending the fuel lines close to the firewall to getit away from the headers, your work is coming along wonderfully! Can't wait to see more!!

[shoguner]

holy shit that manifold!!!

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Drifting Kalamari

I had no issues bending the fuel lines close to the firewall to getit away from the headers, your work is coming along wonderfully! Can't wait to see more!!

Originally Posted by shoguner

holy shit that manifold!!!

Thanks guys!

Drifting Kalamari: Did you have to remove the fuel hard lines completely or just bend them with a tool under the car? Wish I did this while I had the engine out.

[Drifting Kalamari]

How I did it may not be the "proper" way but it worked well for me! Lol

I loosened where the lines are mounted to the firewall and underneath so I had a little wiggle room. I then placed a 22mm socket between the firewall and fuel lines. I then put light pressure on the lines by the socket in order to give it enough of a bend so when I removed the socket the lines were really close to the firewall. I then remounted the hard line so it wouldn't wiggle.

That's it, lol

Here's a potato pic of it




And a pic of the fuel filter coming off the hard line right next to the firewall

[badass8]

Your manifold sits low, which made me realize I had to put washers on my engine mounts to lift the engine off the steering rack. That's why my passenger exhaust manifold come so close to the lines..grrrr.

I seen your manifold and I was like holy shit you have a ton of room!

How's your clutch line looking? If you have a full exhaust on it that is.

[Drifting Kalamari]

I have an aftermarket flexible (Auto to manual) clutch line that will stay by the trans and away from the heat. I'm using stock headers right now, DS modified by TurtleMeth and passenger side I had modified to get the end down and away from the trans and firewall.

I have had personal matters to deal with first before continuing on this project, so maybe next year I'll be done.
I can't wait to see more of your progress!!!

[Hoonigan19]

sick build man! motor sounds badass.

You might wanna split a rubber hose and put it along the sharp edge where your harness tuck is ... if you haven't done that yet... might cut your harness sometime down the line.

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Drifting Kalamari

I have an aftermarket flexible (Auto to manual) clutch line that will stay by the trans and away from the heat. I'm using stock headers right now, DS modified by TurtleMeth and passenger side I had modified to get the end down and away from the trans and firewall.

I have had personal matters to deal with first before continuing on this project, so maybe next year I'll be done.
I can't wait to see more of your progress!!!

As you can tell this is my first swap, or else I would have bought that damn clutch line right away. Just looked it up and that would be really nice so I can have the clutch line go straight through the trans tunnel.

I figured go bold and just go with tundra headers since I haven't seen anyone else with them, in person at least.

Christmas is setting me back a bit from getting this done. I'd say 1-2 months and it'll be 100% on the road. Gotta get it done before college starts again in the spring.

Originally Posted by Hoonigan19

sick build man! motor sounds badass.

You might wanna split a rubber hose and put it along the sharp edge where your harness tuck is ... if you haven't done that yet... might cut your harness sometime down the line.

Good eye! It is a bit sharp, I'll have to put something there to soften it up.

Thank you guys for the kind words. Pushes me to get this done!

[badass8]

I've been taking my time with the swap lately since school has started up again, and 2 new jobs.
Here's some pictures of the exhaust Turtle Meth is making for me.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Drifting Kalamari]

That's a nice crossover pipe. Turtlemeth's stuff is top notch.

Keep us updated!

[JZ78]

Nice first swap choice!

sent from my mind

[shoguner]

Wait... so you build a nice mani for the drivers side. But kept the stock shitty log for the passenger? Why didn't you use the other tundra header?

[badass8]

Thank you for the kinds words. Almost there!

Originally Posted by shoguner

Wait... so you build a nice mani for the drivers side. But kept the stock shitty log for the passenger? Why didn't you use the other tundra header?

Haha no I would never do that. The passenger side is still a tundra header. It just looks like a log header on the passenger side because of the black paint.

Passenger side.

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by badass8

Thank you for the kinds words. Almost there!



Haha no I would never do that. The passenger side is still a tundra header. It just looks like a log header on the passenger side because of the black paint.

Passenger side.
(IMG)

Oooh ok. Good, i was about to come over and slap you lol.



This is why i was confused. Also, the crossover pipe in ingenious.

[badass8]

Yeah I was even able to use the stock fuel lines, and I routed them through the trans tunnel.

Here is a short start up video with the new exhaust:






HOWEVER. A hopefully small problem has occurred.
After we finished bleeding the clutch we figured we should try engaging/disengaging the clutch.
While the car is off I can switch gears sorta fine. But when the car is on and I try to shift to ANY
gear I can't it's, too hard to even force it. It wont go into gear while I have the clutch engaged. I
assume it's the Master Cylinder. I am hoping it doesn't have anything to do with the tranmission/TOB.
What do you guys suggest?
*Note before the swap the MC and SC were working fine with the stock engine.

[Drifting Kalamari]

I haven't started mine yet but noticed after bleeding my MC and slave i couldn't move the shifter into any gears but 1st and 2nd. I hear for me it's an issue with the flywheel and pressure plate not working with the KA clutch plate; kind of a common problem. So I am pulling the trans this morning to get my new KA clutch and pressure plate mated to the MR2 flywheel at a machine shop... should solve the problem.

Dunno if this issue happens with other trans or just the KA/SR trans...

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by badass8

Yeah I was even able to use the stock fuel lines, and I routed them through the trans tunnel.

Here is a short start up video with the new exhaust:


[IMG]



HOWEVER. A hopefully small problem has occurred.
After we finished bleeding the clutch we figured we should try engaging/disengaging the clutch.
While the car is off I can switch gears sorta fine. But when the car is on and I try to shift to ANY
gear I can't it's, too hard to even force it. It wont go into gear while I have the clutch engaged. I
assume it's the Master Cylinder. I am hoping it doesn't have anything to do with the tranmission/TOB.
What do you guys suggest?
*Note before the swap the MC and SC were working fine with the stock engine.

Measure your distance between the TOB and clutch, your bellhousing might not be milled down enough.

[badass8]

Small update.

-Wired up the aftermarket water temp gauge.
-Wired up the my electric fan to the AC button which was pretty useful

-Purchased and installed new clutch Master and Slave... BUT the transmission still wont go into gear while the car is running.

1) Tried bleeding the clutch with fresh brake fluid like 10 times
2) Tried adjusting the Master Cylinder a couples times

I am worried with Brett Collins extended TOB it wasn't extended enough. Gonna try to extend the slave a little and go from there.
I am really trying to avoid pulling the transmission because I would have to pull the whole motor out and its basically complete...

[Drifting Kalamari]

My trans was junk and couldn't change gears even after pulling it back out So I now have a new KA trans.

I'm hoping to not have the same issue, As long as the engine isn't running I can now change into any gear I need. If the engine going on and causes the problem it is either the TOB is too short (I have the Collins doubled up TOB) or the clutch plate is too thick and is stuck between the pressure plate and flywheel.

A couple more things to button up then I'll try starting mine to let you know if I have same issue.

Yours is looking boss BTW, loving this thread.

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Drifting Kalamari

My trans was junk and couldn't change gears even after pulling it back out So I now have a new KA trans.

I'm hoping to not have the same issue, As long as the engine isn't running I can now change into any gear I need. If the engine going on and causes the problem it is either the TOB is too short (I have the Collins doubled up TOB) or the clutch plate is too thick and is stuck between the pressure plate and flywheel.

A couple more things to button up then I'll try starting mine to let you know if I have same issue.

Yours is looking boss BTW, loving this thread.

I am using the same KA trans from my KA24DE and it shifted just fine that's why I am like grrr it has something to do with the swap. My car is at a friends house at the moment so that's why I am not trying to pull the engine out because that's just more time and he wants my car out of his place which is understandable. If worst comes to worst I'll just tow it back to my house and unhook everything.

Thanks man. Glad to hear yours is coming together as well. I have less then a month of class left so it'll be complete soon. I HOPE!

[badass8]

Finally discovered the issue which was the knockoff pressure plate I received with the swap I purchased.

On this no name pressure plate it had an inner lip which stayed in contact with the clutch disc, so the clutch disc was never able to spin freely.

Pressure Plate inner lip:


Knockoff pressure plate hitting the clutch disc:


Turtle Meth was able to help me out once again with an ACT Pressure plate:


No contact between the ACT Pressure Plate and clutch disc:


Next update it SHOULD be in gear and driving...

[Clutch Dog]

Got any measurements for the new driveshaft/ I took the forward piece out and measured it 1 and 1/4th shorter then what i had. Im waiting on a driveline shop to finish it

[badass8]

Originally Posted by Clutch Dog

Got any measurements for the new driveshaft/ I took the forward piece out and measured it 1 and 1/4th shorter then what i had. Im waiting on a driveline shop to finish it

From the U joint to the beginning of the yolk its about 41" BUT my driveshaft is super close to the dust shield on the back of the trans.

[Clutch Dog]

looks like ill do 39 and 3/8th then. thanks!

[Clutch Dog]

Did you get this swap running again? I did a check for engagement on my end and my trans shifts. and my fuel lines are routed now. im waiting on the driveshaft and a wiring harness then im gonna turn key.