$6000 budget: help me make a decision

[2fly2die]

legit as fuck

[0wn3r]

Originally Posted by NismoDriverS13

how about getting a life for that much???

again we dont care what u do with ur cars and money!!!

and if u gonna pay someone to install ur parts, then sure.... call me and i can take your money, i can install shit on ur car.

if i only had a quarter for everytime someone asks us to help them buy something. i think thats pathetic. u got money, but dont know how to waste it??? hahahaha. i wish i had that problem.

you've come into a thread on a forum specifically made to discuss cars and what people do with them...and you say that you don't care about what people do with their cars or money? Not only that, but you tell him to get a life. Meanwhile you apparently lack even more of a life supposedly than the OP has since you took the time to come in here and respond. You have contributed nothing useful at all to this thread besides letting everyone know that your future posts will probably be useless too.

Originally Posted by bm3r

what are your mods?

I went to school, graduated with a degree, and have a well paying job. I have earned and paid for everything I have ever owned.

You have no respect. Get out of the thread.

I listed my mods out in the thread already and +1.

Originally Posted by 2fly2die

legit as fuck

what does this even mean?

[bm3r]

Originally Posted by FaLKoN240

I would recommend looking around or possibly buying used, if you have a budget going on used higher range coilovers is usually your best bet.

I would go at least for 3 way adjustable coils (Preload, lower perch, damping) coilovers over the SS style. I absolutely HATED those coilovers because the way you adjust the ride height is by moving around the spring instead of shortening the shock body of the car.



Tein SS coilovers are a great coilover IF you have no other choice in selecting coilovers.

As I said above the only way you lower the car is by lowering the spring's perch which really sucks and yes, even at maximum droop the car isn't that low which I guess is cool if you're into that, but it makes the suspension way soft and causes the car to sag and droop through dips in the road which ISN'T cool.

I hated the way the suspension traveled on those things and sold them as soon as I bought them.

Not only because of that, but because there are so many more options available for the coilovers we have available for our chassis.

If you're really worried about ride quality try the Stance LX+ or something and get the ride height you want and the ride quality you want.

You'd be surprised how comfortable you can make "race" suspension feel by not putting a ton of preload on your suspension all around.

And having the ability to go lower is always a settling thought. Just in case. Because eventually everyone wants to go lower.

True everyone eventually wants to go lower. Ill pass on the SS and look into the stance, kw, tanabe, etc thanks for the info

Originally Posted by 0wn3r

you've come into a thread on a forum specifically made to discuss cars and what people do with them...and you say that you don't care about what people do with their cars or money? Not only that, but you tell him to get a life. Meanwhile you apparently lack even more of a life supposedly than the OP has since you took the time to come in here and respond. You have contributed nothing useful at all to this thread besides letting everyone know that your future posts will probably be useless too.



I listed my mods out in the thread already and +1.



what does this even mean?

I saw your mods on page 2. I didnt see your exhaust setup. Do you have a 3": turbo out let, test pipe, down pipe and exhaust?

Some people are so immature. I dont even know why they post.

[nice_tan]

If you are looking for new suspensions. I am getting my R3 STD Coilovers soon. They are called Standard. Ignore the initials haha Hit me up if your interested in them. They are really known in Canada, Euro, and Asia. i got a new number. so just e-mail me [email protected]

http://www.std.com.tw

http://www.std.com.tw/productshowroo...t02_pic003.jpg

[0wn3r]

Originally Posted by bm3r

I saw your mods on page 2. I didnt see your exhaust setup. Do you have a 3": turbo out let, test pipe, down pipe and exhaust?

Oh I didn't mention exhaust in here? Anyways, I have 3" all the way back. No test pipe, but the hi-flow catco. Circuit Sports catback, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I mean, it sounds pretty nice, but the quality isn't really there. It's more expensive, but maybe try the NICO BRM exhaust if they still have it. (I was purposely keeping the st0ck look, of course there are many other single tip exhausts out there that are probably better)

[clark]

landins13...i don't know why you think lmgt4s are worth 4k...

fyi, don't go too crazy on the engine...it won't be that much fun if you dont' have the suspension...

if i were you, i'd keep the sr as stock as possible, but freshen it up a bit, but get yourself the right suspension pieces, chassis stiffening/bracing, brakes, and LSD.

[bm3r]

Originally Posted by nice_tan

If you are looking for new suspensions. I am getting my R3 STD Coilovers soon. They are called Standard. Ignore the initials haha Hit me up if your interested in them. They are really known in Canada, Euro, and Asia. i got a new number. so just e-mail me [email protected]

http://www.std.com.tw

http://www.std.com.tw/productshowroo...t02_pic003.jpg

I might go with a koni/eibach pro kit set up, not sure yet. I want a comfortable ride, and dont really care for how low it will go. If I do get coilovers it may be the KW 3's

Originally Posted by 0wn3r

Oh I didn't mention exhaust in here? Anyways, I have 3" all the way back. No test pipe, but the hi-flow catco. Circuit Sports catback, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it. I mean, it sounds pretty nice, but the quality isn't really there. It's more expensive, but maybe try the NICO BRM exhaust if they still have it. (I was purposely keeping the st0ck look, of course there are many other single tip exhausts out there that are probably better)

Ive heard good things about the BRM exhaust. I might go with the 3" exhaust with the dual tips and 18" resonator to keep it quiet with a 3" test pipe.

Originally Posted by clark

landins13...i don't know why you think lmgt4s are worth 4k...

fyi, don't go too crazy on the engine...it won't be that much fun if you dont' have the suspension...

if i were you, i'd keep the sr as stock as possible, but freshen it up a bit, but get yourself the right suspension pieces, chassis stiffening/bracing, brakes, and LSD.

I will most likely do that

[bm3r]

What do you guys recommend for a manual boost controller and boost gauge? what do you think of world electronics?

Would you recommend running a stock SMIC over a Front mount with the mods I listed to save $$?

Also, is the Apexi short ram power intake worth it for the money in hp gains if any?

[S14_Kouki]

Idea. Save the 6k then save more and buy a hks tranny and build around that

[0wn3r]

Originally Posted by bm3r

What do you guys recommend for a manual boost controller and boost gauge? what do you think of world electronics?

Would you recommend running a stock SMIC over a Front mount with the mods I listed to save $$?

Also, is the Apexi short ram power intake worth it for the money in hp gains if any?

I've seen alot of people recommend Hallman MBCs...so I got the Pro Rx or whatever it's called. I'm not sure what's causing my slight spike though. When I boost it'll jump to 17psi real real quick then down to 15.

Ummm I guess you could use stock side mount, but maybe put in a temp gauge before you drive it to make sure you're not running too hot..

I can't really recommend a good "set" of gauges. There's some I find real cheap, then some I find real expensive...and the ones in the middle i just nit-pick on.

[Norrek4040]

LS1 w/Tranny =$3500
and the rest for installation!

[bm3r]

Originally Posted by bm3r

Ok I revised my list using some of your suggestions check it out:

1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC
2. Labor
3. Stock S14 Radiator
4. A/C to work
5. P/S to work
6. Short Ram Intake OR Stock intake (how much hp will I get with the short ram over the stock intake? I wouldnt mind spending a little extra for an ok gain of hp)
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand?
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand?
10. HKS SS BOV-What difference would it make if I "recirculated" the stock BOV vs. getting an HKS? Will the stock BOV make a sound? Will the stock BOV work perfectly, what are the pros and cons?
11. Motul Fluids
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses
13. 3" Exhaust
14. 3" Turbo elbow
15. 3" DP
16. 3" Test Pipe
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
18. Stock S14 Clutch
19. FMIC-Would you recommend the stock side mount intercooler? would the stock smic function properly?

My main goal is to make 240-250whp and a very reliable daily driver on a budget. TIA!-JR


Few questions:

1. What will I dyno at to the Wheels with the setup above?
2. Will I need a Sikky thermalnator heatshield gasket and what does it do?
3. So a Miata battery will work rather than relocating the battery to the trunk?
4. Will my tach and speedo work after the swap?
5. Headers seem to be cheap, will I see a nice gain with the setup above?
6. Should I cough the extra bucks and get a new radiator? Will the bumper have to be removed if I install it down the road?
7. A stock flywheel that is resurfaced will suffice correct?
8. Will I need new spark plugs?
9. Will I still get a blow off sound if I recirculate the stock BOV-to save $$ rather than getting the HKS SS BOV?


Please post some dyno #'s, most graphs I see are with big turbos etc.

TIA!-JR

Made a few adjustments to cut cost for now, what do you think?

[jr_ss]

The stock SMIC should be discarded with any mod. They heatsoak and are not very efficient up to and around 250whp. I'd recommend an FMIC.

If you go with the KW V3's you'll love them. Mine are amazing and very comfortable. I haven't even adjusted the rebound/compression at all yet and love them. They go low, but not scraping the ground low, which is good for what I plan on using the car for.

The 3 gauges I would run, boost/oil psi/coolant. If you need/want it an EGT or Wideband, but not necessary on a relatively stock swap.

[Dazzla]

I'd do some suspension work first, then swap in a blacktop SR, and just keep it stock if you want a reliable DD.

[Red Dragon3]

I am kind of on the same boat as you. Just bought a chassis for $1200 and currently doing a swap.
Honestly $6000 budget is not much. Things will start adding up quickly. Trust me! I have currently spent over $4700 in parts (including chassis) and yet the car is not running. I will probably spend over $5500 to get the car running.
If you want a "reliable daily driver" then a motor swap is not for you. Cause "reliable" and "motor swap" dont go hand in hand. Things will break and you will have to fix it. If you want a "reliable daily drive" buy a newer car. Plain and simple.
However if you want to have a decent fast daily driver then do the sr20 motor swap. IMHO dont turbo the stock motor. A motor that is design for boost will last longer that a turbo motor that was design for n/a. Also other people are telling you to outrageous V8 swaps, dont listen to them. Cause if you dont have great mechanical skills and be able to fabricate your own parts then, its going to cost alot more money and time to do the swap.
I would also suggest doing the labor by your self with a help of a couple friends. Especially if your doing a swap, cause if it breaks, you know how to fix it. If your not doing the swap, then a motor swap is not for you. Just dont do it. Do some research and do the labor your self.

Your parts list
1. S14 SR20det Black Top with VTC - Yes highly recommend it, if you want more power!
2. Labor - Do it your self! or your budget on parts will be $3000 instead of $6K
3. Stock S14 Radiator - you can get a megan al 3 row on ebay for cheap
4. A/C to work - AC who cares!
5. P/S to work - You will need powersteering pump lines from DOHC ka24
6. Short Ram Intake OR Stock intake - Just get a good quality new air filter (short ram)
7. Auto to Manual swap and Parts
8. Boost gauge-What brand? - You dont need one for now, until you decide to up the boost. Get the motor to run first before buying one. Prosport makes a good gauge if your on a budget
9. Manual Boost Controller-What brand? - You dont need one yet. Get the motor to run first before you buy one.
10. HKS SS BOV-What difference would it make if I "recirculated" the stock BOV vs. getting an HKS? Will the stock BOV make a sound? Will the stock BOV work perfectly, what are the pros and cons? - IMO recirculate the bov. It will make the car run better. But stick with the stock bov with stock smic and get the motor to run first before buying one.
11. Motul Fluids - Motul is great but buy cheaper stuff first, to make sure your car is in good running condition before buying motul. You dont want to waste good fluids cause of a small leak.
12. New belts, hoses, heater hoses - you will need 3 belts, heater hoses and rad hoses.
13. 3" Exhaust - buy used or ebay
14. 3" Turbo elbow - buy used or ebay
15. 3" DP - buy used or ebay
16. 3" Test Pipe - buy used or ebay
17. Walbro 255 Fuel Pump - Recommend a new walbro pump.
18. Stock S14 Clutch - dont bother with stock clutch. go aftermarket stage 2 or 3. Spec clutch is good if your on a budget. You will need to machine your flywheel.
19. FMIC-Would you recommend the stock side mount intercooler? would the stock smic function properly? - Use the stock smic, just to get the motor to run first before buying one. Definetly recommend getting some sort of after market intercooler.

Some other parts you may need if you do a motor swap.
full gasket set
radiator fans - alot better than clutch fan
battery relocation or mini battery
oem 300zx fuel filter
spark plugs
water pump
thermostat
brake pads, lines
clutch line

For suspension work. Get some decent set of coilovers, dont cheap out on cheap megan ones. I am going with power by max coilovers cause i am drifting. Get one that suits your needs. Then get a suspension arm package. If your planing to just daily drive it then, dont spend tones of money on suspension parts, no need to buy spl parts.

Get your self some decent rims and tires. no point in modifying a car when you can't put the power down.

[0wn3r]

your BOV will still make a sound even if you recirc, but it's not the same as without recirc though. you don't want it to be loud anyways. trust me, RECIRCULATE the damn thing.

[Max_PSi]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned sticking with the KA. Its an automagic, so its prolly seen a lot less abuse then a manual car. I think you can keep closer to your budget if you go this way.

Swap in a 5-speed----can be found at junkyard or in the classifieds here
Injectors----S15 injectors, good to 300whp
New mani, scource out a good used T28----You can usually find one on here, or get a new S15 turbo maybe
Stand-alone ECU-----AEM, Nistune
FMIC----already mentioned Greddy setup.



Prolly missing some parts but you get the idea. I think this would be total-wise a cheaper way to go with parts