Power Steering+AN Lines + Cooler=Good times!

[5280VertDET]

Hey guys,

Been studying this set up and other on other forums and have just ordered this set up. I was originally going to go with the Chase Bays kit, but it I had been waiting for it since August. Enjuku was nice and refunded me.

So I made my own. Here's the parts list and my "diagram": Total Cost from ANPlumbing.com - $142.00 Shipped



I just placed the order and have not install it yet, but I just wanted to say thanks to every one in this thread. One benefit to this system is no welding skills are required. I hope to post a install and long term update. Stay tuned!

PS: If anyone see's anything wrong that wouldn't allow this to work; please PM or comment.

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

Hey guys,

Been studying this set up and other on other forums and have just ordered this set up. I was originally going to go with the Chase Bays kit, but it I had been waiting for it since August. Enjuku was nice and refunded me.

So I made my own. Here's the parts list and my "diagram": Total Cost from ANPlumbing.com - $142.00 Shipped
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7Erl1sN.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ClYleUn.jpg[IMG]

I just placed the order and have not install it yet, but I just wanted to say thanks to every one in this thread. One benefit to this system is no welding skills are required. I hope to post a install and long term update. Stay tuned!

PS: If anyone see's anything wrong that wouldn't allow this to work; please PM or comment.

The only potential problem I see with your setup is the rack fittings. You may get lucky and have the crush washers seal well enough so you don't have any leaks but the o-rings won't seal and that is the OEM design.

Try it out but you might have to ditch the washers on the rack and machine the fittings so you get the proper seal at the o-ring.

Good luck.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

The only potential problem I see with your setup is the rack fittings. You may get lucky and have the crush washers seal well enough so you don't have any leaks but the o-rings won't seal and that is the OEM design.

Try it out but you might have to ditch the washers on the rack and machine the fittings so you get the proper seal at the o-ring.

Good luck.

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

From what I can tell from reading this whole thing, NO. U have to machine down the fitting because the hex head is too thick making the shank of the fitting to short and not allowing the oring to mate with the sealing surface of the rack

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

Ignore everything in this thread except for what I've posted...

and Yetijeff since he can read.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

Ignore everything in this thread except for what I've posted...

and Yetijeff since he can read.

Well, fuck. I read that but somehow thought that it was fittings from another supplier that had the issues and earls worked fine. Guess I'll find some to machine these down...

[yetijeff]

A lot of good info in this thread... One question tho would the sizes be the same on the ps pump fitting for a sohc ka pump?

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Ill just add this for those who want to make a full AN power steering set up for half the price. You will need a know someone with a TIG welder, you may be able to get away with a MIG.


First off, take off your PS hardlines from the rack.



Next, take a cutting wheel or angle grinder and cut off the ends of the hardline like so. Make sure you have an inch or more at the end of the tube and nut.
Clean the shavings that would be in between the tube and outside with sand paper. You will have to clean the tube till its flat and raw material because its going to get welded later. I sanded till the tube easily fell out the nut.



Next purchase x2 "STEEL" AN-6 weld-on Bungs and take it to your welder. This can be done with a MIG welder as it is steel.
They should cost $2 each, which is a mere 5% of what you would pay for the 2 AN adapters which would probably leak on you.

Have your welder weld the bung to the tube from the outside. Make sure you take off the plastic o-rings on the nut before you weld them, they will melt on there.



Now you have a power steering rack AN adapter that is OEM reliable. This is 95% of why PS systems leak.. because the AN Adapter being to short inside the rack. I wish i had a pic to compare my OEM AN adapter vs a AN adapter but I can guarantee the AN is half as short.



After that you got the hard part done, you just need to get the high pressure line made, feed line, and reservoir.


For Pump feed adapter, you can :

1. Go with OP and purchase - Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
or 2. purchase another Steel AN-6 Bung and have your welder weld on the high pressure feed side.


The Reservoir leaves you with 2 choices:

1. Purchase a new PS reservoir like I did. eBay $27


or 2. Purchase x2 AN-6 Aluminum weld-on bungs and x1 AN-10 Aluminum weld-on bungs and follow the method done by OP. This will require you to have someone with a TIG welder. This will leave you with just the AN-10 line to purchase.


The oil feed port :

1. If you have a TIG welder, follow OPs method.

2. If you do not have a TIG welder, purchase a AN-10 Female to Barb fitting for the aluminum reservoir above. Then just use the original rubber feed hose, its just a feed line so no need for it to be AN fitted.


Hoses :

For the High pressure hose, in most cities, there should be a hose shop around your neighborhood that makes these sort of line. In Socal, we have HoseMan all over. Just go in and have them make you a AN-6 to AN-6 High pressure line in steel braided material. This should cost around $40.

The return hose from rack to reservoir. Look online like forum and eBay, you just need about 2 feet long, its a -6AN to -6AN. Return hose does not need to be high pressure, regular kevlar braided is fine.

Oil feed line, its a AN10 to AN10, again look online. This one is super cheap because its a oil return line for turbos.


Hope this helps

[Busta]

Thanks man, pictures explain it all better. Only difference is the ones i've done have the tubes flared into a chamfer that's made into the fitting at the hex side to secure i to the fitting,then both ends are filled flat and welded toghether with two passes. And yes MIG works if done correctly. The ps resevoir on mine was relocated on a bracket by the radiator L/H side with fittings welded to it, gets it away from the exhaust manifolds and this all fixes the pump feed line leaking problems that these cars develop enventually with all new teflon braided ss hoses. Oh by the way I forgot to say that mine was also relocated to the a/c compressor area to give space for turbo piping "up there"

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by PeaceOnesxWai

Ill just add this for those who want to make a full AN power steering set up for half the price. You will need a know someone with a TIG welder, you may be able to get away with a MIG.

s

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

[Busta]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

I've had absolutely no problems with the rack or anything else doing this on cars that get used and abused A LOT, working flawlessly. I cant see what it could change pressure wise. The guys to whom the racks have blown must not of been using the oem bolt on the ps pump banjo fitting, if I remember correctly it has built in regulator valve (special bolt)

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Busta

I've had absolutely no problems with the rack or anything else doing this on cars that get used and abused A LOT, working flawlessly. I cant see what it could change pressure wise. The guys to whom the racks have blown must not of been using the oem bolt on the ps pump banjo fitting, if I remember correctly it has built in regulator valve (special bolt)

Ya, IDK... They're all engineers and shit on that board so I would imagine they knew about the regulator on the banjo bolt. But that's just my speculation.

[codyace]

The way PeaceOnesxWai is actually pretty slick, and I kick myself for not thinking of doing it that way myself.

Originally Posted by Beejis60

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

If you weld directly to the rack's upper housing, you'll melt the upper seal. If you take the upper housing off, and then remove the upper seal, you ruin it...and no one sells a replacement seal for it.

...i'm no engineer, I'm a slop!

[xoxide]

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

I don't plan on getting the fluid hot enough. No heavy driving, maybe spirited back roads, but thats it.

SMALL UPDATE:

I haven't installed it yet, but the "Econo-Fits" for the PS lines, to small to fit around the hose that it claims. Shitty.

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Woah havent been in this thread for awhile now..

Originally Posted by Busta

Thanks man, pictures explain it all better. Only difference is the ones i've done have the tubes flared into a chamfer that's made into the fitting at the hex side to secure i to the fitting,then both ends are filled flat and welded toghether with two passes. And yes MIG works if done correctly. The ps resevoir on mine was relocated on a bracket by the radiator L/H side with fittings welded to it, gets it away from the exhaust manifolds and this all fixes the pump feed line leaking problems that these cars develop enventually with all new teflon braided ss hoses. Oh by the way I forgot to say that mine was also relocated to the a/c compressor area to give space for turbo piping "up there"

I used flare tube nut for fuel lines before, its a pain and the tube usually cracks when you reach around -6AN.. so im a little iffy on doing that method. Plus it wouldnt be a smart idea to weld a fuel line
I chose to do the weld-on cause 1. its realiable and 2. its cheap.

Originally Posted by xoxide

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

I am running one but for the time i was doing my guide I hadnt order it yet. But for concerns, I would be perfectly fine without the cooler on DDs and light spirit driving. Im confident my AN line set up could handle alot more then DOHC PS line so I have no worries about it blowing.

Originally Posted by 180sxs13

sorry to wake up dead.

can someone confirm if i can do this nice setup and cancel the pressure restriction (factory banjo fitting) ??

Specify "cancel the pressure restriction"? Like removing the banjo bolt and adding AN fittings?

[180sxs13]

sorry to wake up dead.

can someone confirm if i can do this nice setup and cancel the pressure restriction (factory banjo fitting) ??

[180sxs13]

Sorry. was little off (didn't get noticed) !.
Anyway, yes deleting the banjo and the built in regulator valve as guys call it.

[dhnedgj]

Sick setup. I want to run this setup minus the cooler for now jus cuz I hate the oem lines.

[silviaNC]

Had to take xrp hose and end fittings to a shop to get them in. Here is my setup almost complete

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by silviaNC

Had to take xrp hose and end fittings to a shop to get them in. Here is my setup almost complete

Looks like you have an LS swap? If so, who made your high-pressure line?

[silviaNC]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

Looks like you have an LS swap? If so, who made your high-pressure line?

Is an rb26 and bought xrp high pressure hose and fittings as i stated on post. Low pressure and return are pro lite nylon hose

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by silviaNC

Is an rb26 and bought xrp high pressure hose and fittings as i stated on post. Low pressure and return are pro lite nylon hose

I don't check old posts, but ya, looks good. Looks similar to an LS swap PS line I've seen before and being that your pan looked like a sikky pan, I just assumed...

[InsTanCeZ]

I hurd Z33 PS cooler is pretty much a bolt in affair. Anyone have more info on this?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by InsTanCeZ

I hurd Z33 PS cooler is pretty much a bolt in affair. Anyone have more info on this?

IDK what you mean by bolt on affair. It looks like any el cheapo shitty cooler you can buy at like vato zone and napa. I bought a cheap aluminum finned afco one from speedway. Easy peasy.

[abcdefg123]

Updates to this thread? New pictures?

[*brett*]

does anyone know the size of the tube coming out of the rack? i dont have access to a welder but i see they make a flare fitting adapter that might work

[Martino]

Might be resurrecting a dead question but I've noticed my power steering isn't necessarily the quickest anymore since AN lines and cooler.

Once I'm rolling everything is fine, but if I try to make a really sharp movement I feel a very slight bit of restriction and than everything is smooth.

When the car is idle it's hard as shit to turn sometimes.

Any solutions or ideas to this?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Martino

Might be resurrecting a dead question but I've noticed my power steering isn't necessarily the quickest anymore since AN lines and cooler.

Once I'm rolling everything is fine, but if I try to make a really sharp movement I feel a very slight bit of restriction and than everything is smooth.

When the car is idle it's hard as shit to turn sometimes.

Any solutions or ideas to this?

This is called "pump catch", and it's usually caused by not enough flow from the pump during movements that need it (such as quick movements or fast transitions). I've been trying to dial this out for a while now. I have a restrictor in my KA pump that is working perfectly with the giant reservoir I have, but I have yet to install my cooler, so I'm not sure how that affects things. It's a pain haha.

Are you still running the banjo bolt and cast outlet on your pump? That has a built in restrictor that you may need to remove with a decent size cooler. There are -6 adapters for that if you need ALL the flow, or restrictors of various sizes. You basically have to experiment haha.

For everyone else: I've been using a standard steel adapter fitting in my high pressure side with no leaks for a while now. No sealant, just tightened it good and tight...

[turbo2nr]

Sorry to bump an old thread...

I have the ISIS ps kit and my fitting on the rack leaks.

I've looked through this thread and cant find an exact link to the fitting i need to go into the rack.

this is the fitting in question:


will this fitting work? :
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...91954/10002/-1

if not can someone please link me to the fitting I need.

Thanks