My SR20VET...

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Darren

i like how clean the CAS replacement from Mazworks is, however, how do you adjust it? is the ring that goes on the cam adjustable?

Just curious

Great work

You never need to adjust it.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

You never need to adjust it.

Thanks PoorMan.

To add to this, when you first install it, it has to be set with a feeler gauge. I believe it was .060 air gap between the wheel and the pickup. This setup cannot be run on a factory ECU or a Nistune/Nismotronic. It must be a fully programmable EMS system, which is the only downside to it.

I originally wanted to run the P12 CAS, however I did not want to cut a huge hole in my firewall. Nissan CAS' have a very good resolution from the factory, but this was my only option.

[whitey240]

Holy hell... Are you ever going to finish this build? I have had two different V8's in my car since I sold all of this stuff to you!

Looking good as always! Can't wait to see what numbers it puts down!

The IM was the first one off the line 3 years ago when Jay made the kit. It cracked on the dyno and was reinforced by Jay with Mark reviewing the fix. It was fine for the rest of the time I drove on it and should be fine for the future.

I will be curious to see how that clutch holds up. The twin plate OS Giken I had in the car was starting to slip. I can't remember if we talked about this or not but I would really think about putting in the hydraulic release bearing(Hydraulic Release Bearing Kit RWD - Drivetrain - Mazworx). I was having issues shifting at full throttle at the track and the more I think about it, I think this might have fixed the issue.

That CAS relocation is pretty slick. Definitely better then putting a hole in the firewall. Although now it gives me a sweet spot to hide nitrous solenoids!

Good luck and keep me updated when this thing finally moves under its own power!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by whitey240

Holy hell... Are you ever going to finish this build? I have had two different V8's in my car since I sold all of this stuff to you!

Looking good as always! Can't wait to see what numbers it puts down!

The IM was the first one off the line 3 years ago when Jay made the kit. It cracked on the dyno and was reinforced by Jay with Mark reviewing the fix. It was fine for the rest of the time I drove on it and should be fine for the future.

I will be curious to see how that clutch holds up. The twin plate OS Giken I had in the car was starting to slip. I can't remember if we talked about this or not but I would really think about putting in the hydraulic release bearing(Hydraulic Release Bearing Kit RWD - Drivetrain - Mazworx). I was having issues shifting at full throttle at the track and the more I think about it, I think this might have fixed the issue.

That CAS relocation is pretty slick. Definitely better then putting a hole in the firewall. Although now it gives me a sweet spot to hide nitrous solenoids!

Good luck and keep me updated when this thing finally moves under its own power!

Hey man, baby steps... Thanks for the compliments! I actually found a very small crack on the underside by the IACV, but took care of it at work and should be good to go.

The clutch should be up to the task. I'm not sure what the OS Giken was rated to handle, but this one is rated for 515ft lbs. I shouldn't eclipse that, but you never know on race gas and some more boost. I had looked at the hydro release bearing, I guess we'll find out if it is indeed needed.

I honestly fought with myself about cutting the hole for the CAS, but I figured , IF I ever do a different conversion, I don't want a large hole back there staring at me, atleast you found a good use for yours .

************************************************** ********

***Update***

So, last update I was attempting to get my cold pipe finished up, but as usual, parts delays and my schedule conflicted with what I wanted to do. I did however get it tacked up that evening without the other parts I needed.





Fast forward to yesterday, all parts in hand, minus my IAT bund and a nipple for the IACV, and it's all finished up. Tig welded and purged to prevent any and all stalactites from forming on the inside of the pipe. The remaining pieces should be here tomorrow or Sat and I'll have it completed and installed permanently in the car.

[Asil]

I fall in love with your engine bay and wow keep up the awesome work.

[blo0d]

hey man which catch can is that? nice build as usual!

I cut a hole in my s13 for my p12 cas. but funnily when we mounted it there was still 1.5" of clearance. so I apparently didnt need to cut the hole.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by blo0d

hey man which catch can is that? nice build as usual!

I cut a hole in my s13 for my p12 cas. but funnily when we mounted it there was still 1.5" of clearance. so I apparently didnt need to cut the hole.

The catch can is a custom piece. It was built to fit into the factory charcoal canister bracket.

It seems as if the S13 has more clearance between the firewall and the back of the engine than the S14's. I would've had to cut mine if I kept the P12 CAS.

[blo0d]

which fpr u running?

[cured13]

nice build, one question - wouldn't 45 degree bend work better in there?
I thought less is better when it comes to pipe bends on cold pipes.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by blo0d

which fpr u running?

I am running a Sard racing FPR...

Originally Posted by cured13

nice build, one question - wouldn't 45 degree bend work better in there?
I thought less is better when it comes to pipe bends on cold pipes.

Obviously less bends and overall length is optimal, however my setup has both less bends and overall length than the factory side mount setup. There really is no wrong way to run the piping. If I was going for a super responsive setup, then obviously a mid mount setup with the shortest possible piping would be best. With that, I don't think I'll see any negative effects by having a 90 there instead of a 45.

[rokrigo]

what brand is the manifold exhaust?, its t3?, do you have a web page will i can to buy?.

thank

[sr20luv]

awesome build cant wait to see this done!!!

[SR20_2NR]

i'm usually a reader and not a poster but this thread deserves my first post.

unbelievable work! i plan to do a similar VE build in my s14 zenki to a lesser degree. your build has given me hope and motivation.

i like everything you've done in this build, very clean! keep it up and i'm definitely looking forward to seeing it done and seeing a start up/dyno vid!



ps: did you have to run a spacer in between the crank pulley and the crank in order to run the VE oil pump?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by rokrigo

what brand is the manifold exhaust?, its t3?, do you have a web page will i can to buy?.

thank

I am running a Peakboost manifold, modified to work on the VE head. They are no longer a company, but full-race, Mazworx, Doc race, etc can all fabricate a manifold for you.

Originally Posted by SR20_2NR

i'm usually a reader and not a poster but this thread deserves my first post.

unbelievable work! i plan to do a similar VE build in my s14 zenki to a lesser degree. your build has given me hope and motivation.

i like everything you've done in this build, very clean! keep it up and i'm definitely looking forward to seeing it done and seeing a start up/dyno vid!



ps: did you have to run a spacer in between the crank pulley and the crank in order to run the VE oil pump?

Thanks for the kind words... I'm looking forward to seeing/hearing it on the dyno too.

Yes, there is a pump collar spacer needed for the VE pump. I can't remember the exact thickness of it, but I would call Mazworx and ask them.

************************************************** ********

Over the past few days I have been installing my Aerocatch hood pin/latch setup. I utilized one of the factory holes in the radiator support so no new holes had to be drilled. I will tell you this, it is an extremely time consuming mod. I measured multiple times in many different directions to get them spaced and located evenly on the hood.





Once I finished up the holes and mounting the latches I pushed the car outside to get the garage cleaned up a little bit. So I decided to snap a few pictures of the engine bay in natural light.






I'm still waiting on my harness and EMS to come in. Hopefully my seats will be done soon and I can get them back. I have yet to finish my wiring on the relocation of my fuse box, but I'll get around to it when I get a chance. As always, thanks for looking.

[future]

Looks ready to start ):

[Yellow4g63]

Looking good.

I still need to order these for my carbon kiber hood.

[ForeignMuscle]

Man, I want to buy you a beer. You have done an amazing job keeping everything so clean and organized. I am so ready for a video of it making power.

Hood latches look great as well!

[STEVES14]

when are u planning on starting it up?

[Lil_D]

this build makes me want vvl head so much more great build!

[STEVES14]

i am also in the middle of this swap too does anyone know a mechine in the east coast that can assumable a vvl head swap on a rwd if supplied all the parts expect intake manifold? might do something different i know a fab guy that weld real good

[ForeignMuscle]

Might I ask what you need a machine shop for bud? Besides a custom intake or manifold (which a welder would do, not a machinist) I'm not sure what your asking.

[STEVES14]

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

Might I ask what you need a machine shop for bud? Besides a custom intake or manifold (which a welder would do, not a machinist) I'm not sure what your asking.

I need to machinist to assemble the engine drill the hole in the head plug the hole up in the block check piston to valve clearance and to see if the oil pump needs any kind machining to fit the block.

That's why I'm looking for a machine shop that has assembled vvl head's on SR 20 rwd setup

[Slims]

head = exploded.

such an amazing build. almost make me sad about mine haha.

[Yellow4g63]

Originally Posted by STEVES14

i am also in the middle of this swap too does anyone know a mechine in the east coast that can assumable a vvl head swap on a rwd if supplied all the parts expect intake manifold? might do something different i know a fab guy that weld real good

You can ask the guys @ JMR racing in CT they should know a place since they know the VE's pretty good.

[Kouki_monstr]

Been going back and forth about doing a VVL set up, but i think im ready to make the jump. Your work looks great! I cant wait to see it running! Subscribed!

[blo0d]

Originally Posted by Kouki_monstr

Been going back and forth about doing a VVL set up, but i think im ready to make the jump. Your work looks great! I cant wait to see it running! Subscribed!

do it.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by STEVES14

i am also in the middle of this swap too does anyone know a mechine in the east coast that can assumable a vvl head swap on a rwd if supplied all the parts expect intake manifold? might do something different i know a fab guy that weld real good

What hole do you need drilled? You can buy the plug for the rear drain from Mazworx.

Originally Posted by Slims

head = exploded.

such an amazing build. almost make me sad about mine haha.

Thank you sir...

Originally Posted by Kouki_monstr

Been going back and forth about doing a VVL set up, but i think im ready to make the jump. Your work looks great! I cant wait to see it running! Subscribed!

You'll be happier in the end if you do. Fuck exploding rocker arms!

[K_style]

Pure SEX !!!!!!!!

What would be purpose of this car?

[my9thtry]

When are you starting the partout?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by K_style

Pure SEX !!!!!!!!

What would be purpose of this car?

Thank you sir... I'd like to use it for some road racing and it'll definitely see the drag strip, however, it doesn't necessarily have a target use. Whatever I see fit I suppose. It gave up DD status years ago, but I would imagine I'll drive it quite often, especially in the cooler months when A/C is not needed.

Originally Posted by my9thtry

When are you starting the partout?

As soon as you sell the Subie...