Ka24det FAQ

[vinhisbored]

Stop fucking selling things in this thread.
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS TO QUESTIONS ONLY! IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, MAKE A THREAD IN THE FORUM!
-Jeff

[Mervyn]

wow sweet, i like this faq

[spectator]

I'm a fucking idiot who can't read, and needs to be ridiculed publicly. Maybe, at some point in the future, I will cease to suck, and comprehend gigantic bold letters before making a post.
P.S. I suck.

[96twofourty]

Originally Posted by spectator

im new to fixing cars up. im more into sound systems, but having a 240 was my high school dream until i had kids so i couldnt have one. but now theyre about 3 years old now, had a little money to burn so i finally got one, its a 95 240sx. couple of questions folks, hope y'aLL could help out. I know that i have a KA engine, but I wanted to go a little faster, any recommendations besides the sr20 swap? i tried looking around for a turbo kit, i saw one on ebay from sschrome, but i heard so much bad stuff about it. need ur help!!! thanks in advance

read TWO POSTS above you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SochBAT]

Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please?

[veilside180sx]

These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.



Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage


Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.


Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"

Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.


Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

Turbo Manifold
Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.
Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.
FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.
Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels
Exhaust 3" or larger

Fuel Control
720cc-1600cc Injectors
Standalone Fuel Management
Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.
Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.
Dyno tuning is very valuable.

Block Internals
Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list
Cams (per your discretion)
Build your head as well
Valve Springs
Valve Retainers
ARP Head/Main Studs
Cometic Headgasket or similar


Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)


Boost gauge

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

Turbo Build Parts:

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)


Ground Zero Motorsports



Full Race



Peak Boost (release date TBD)

Revhard

Turbo240.com



JGS Precision

Realnissan.com

Import-AutoPerformance.com



Nizzx.com



SSAutochrome (not recommended)


BOV

Tial
Greddy RS
JGS
HKS SSQV

Wastegates

Tial



JGS



Turbonetics

Block Internals

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

Arias 8.8:1(DE)
Wiseco 9:1(DE)
JE 8.5:1
Ross 8.5:1(DE)
CP 9:1(DE)
Supertech 9:1

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

Crower
Pauter
Carillo
Eagle (release tbd)

Bearings

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

Headgasket

Cometic

Valves

Supertech Dual Valve Springs
SI Valves
Ferrea Valves

Retainers

Supertech Titanium Retainers

Cams

PDM Racing
Nissan Motorsports
Colt Cams
Crower
JWT Technology


Typical Injectors Used on DOHC

SR 370cc Injectors
SR 480cc Injectors (S15)

SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination.


Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

JWT Technology
JGS Precision

[DP_Michelle G]

Originally Posted by sochbat

Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please?

yea jeff add a sticky for the kae-t's

[veilside180sx]

There already is. It's two posts below this!

[graham]

"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

[Jeff240sx]

Originally Posted by graham

"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

Here, I'd like to discuss this a bit. My car.. for 10,000 miles, has pull the same -22in/Hg. Previously, for 22,000 miles, I pulled 20in/Hg. The vacuum of the engine will be the same until your timing goes out of whack.. then it will change enough to screw up your settings. There are very few other reasons that you will lose vacuum, and they are pretty serious. Like a dramatic loss of compression.
1-2in/Hg won't really mess up the tune to any significant point. And for a higher loss of vacuum, you can ALWAYS retune it.

The major disadvantages of a MAP are 1) you need a IAT sensor. We have one, so this isn't really an issue. And 2) when you do a major upgrade that affects the vacuum or changes the power band - you need to do a full retune.
-Jeff

[jdm538]

Are you stupid? Or just too lazy to read the giant bold post.
Don't post questions unless you're posting the goddamn answer!
-Jeff

[theicecreamdan]

http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

[stuckatcuse2]

One reason they may use the cobra MAF is resolution. The ECU uses A/D converters that have a certain number of "steps" per volt. SO... if the Z32 maf maxes out at say 3.2 volts (rather than 5, because they don't use the extra 200HP worth of air flow) the ecu uses only about 64% of its full scale input voltage. Now take the cobra maf, which needs to have values subtracted to stay within HP limits. The ECU now uses 100% of it's input range and either the low or high end is compromised a bit. So with the z32, unless you are making 545 HP, then you are effectively constraining the steps in airflow possible over you're entire power range and are compromising over the entire power range. The cobra however does this only at one end of the spectrum (probably the low end). In otherwords, you'll be able to more precisely tune fuel and timing for a given airflow with a cobra maf than with a z32, up to a certain power level.

[SimpleS14]

Originally Posted by theicecreamdan

http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

What is the advantage to using this?

[tryiian]

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

[krustindumm]

One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

[Realchaos1]

Originally Posted by krustindumm

One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

I bought a new sensor and just matched it when I was fitting the oil T's.

[Jookmasta]

the oil pressure sender switch does thread into a 1/8th BSPT hole.............

[jmizell2]

Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

[Realchaos1]

Originally Posted by jmizell2

Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

JimWolfTechnologies SHOULD sell an aluminum oil pan.

[95Blue240sx]

Yes, Russell makes a little oil return fitting kit. it is a -10an fitting with pipe thread on the other side. Includes gasket and nut. Ill double check the part number when i get to work, but im pretty sure thats it.

Found it. Russell # 697100 Oil pan flange, adapts a male -10 AN to any oil pan, zinc plated steel, includes gasket and mounting bolts

It was on their website, no pic, I will still double check at work.

[gsx__r]

can a 89-94 ka24de the ones on s13s the manual transmission fit on the new ka24de the 95-98 cause my friend is selling a manual transmission with everythin from the old ka24de n im sick of this sissy a.t. on my s14

[EchoOfSilence]

Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.

[gsx__r]

Originally Posted by EchoOfSilence

Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.

so the tranny can bolt on without any major modifications im not worried about the wiring or anything i just wanna know if the transmission can bolt on directly

[mikey0129]

hey guy im new to turboing a 240sx

i have a 1993 s13 dohc and wanting to turbo it out

i wanted to go with the cheap turbo route since im not a baller

so help me out guys

i was thinking... all this items r from fat boy garage in ebay

Bottom mount t25 turbo

turbo manifold

turbo elbow pipe

those 3 items with gasket and screws are $400

and ebay frontmount intercooler with pipings are $200

like oil lines returnlines etc $100

I heard of people just putting this on a stock injectors and stock maf and stock ecu
Whould this setup work with stock maf,ecu,injectors and no tuning ?
Can i just slap dis on and make it run ?
im prob not ganna mess with any boost lvl ill prob have like 7-8 starting right?
and if i wanted more power den i could change out all the injectors,ecu,maf right?

This is my daily driving car so im not ganna be pushing krxy hp
THX for all the help guys

[sunnys14]

tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.

[gsx__r]

Originally Posted by sunnys14

tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.

thanx for the confirmation, now i gotta get some elbow grease

[gsx__r]

k im gonna buy it ill show pics of my swap should take me about 2 days to get her done.....

[druthafoo]

is the ssautochrome manifold really not recommended? The 692 HP SR powered 240 here in blacksburg uses an ssautochrome mani and IIRC has not given him problems. I have the ss mani right now but am not using it.