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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-20-2014, 10:30 PM | #1201 |
Leaky Injector
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My KA-T in progress. Billet 6765 divided t4 turbo, full Brian Crower goods in the head (272 cams),z32 5speed, stock bottom end. Will be using nismotronic for management on e85.
Personal best on the previous setup was a low 13@110mph. Looking to get in to the 11's this time pushing only 15psi
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04-21-2014, 07:37 AM | #1202 |
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It's a nice looking set up, but why go with such a big turbo if you only plan to run 15psi? It's going to be one laggy car making only 450hp.
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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98 |
04-21-2014, 12:51 PM | #1204 |
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Finally found this thread again lol. Here's my setup. Looking to go 10's next month. Need some advice on what its going to take to make this thing cut 1.5's
sr20 manley turbo tuff rods weisco 9:1's with hd pins full supertech valvetrain 1,000 cc injectors hks 264 step 2 cams competition twin disc stock trans for now Will be tuned by martin at rs on e85. suspension welded diff front sway bar removed 26x9 et drags and skinnies kyb agx on stock springs Any advice on things I should change suspension wise to get it to transfer weight better? I feel with 500 whp and at least 400 tq, if it leaves right it should go 10.90. |
04-21-2014, 01:11 PM | #1205 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Positive camber is the best place to start with a RWD IRS drag car, ideally you want it to come back to 0* on the hit so as much tire is in the ground as possible
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04-21-2014, 02:36 PM | #1207 |
Post Whore!
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That stock trans is going to have a hard time holding 1.5's. I'd be looking for an upgrade ASAP.
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04-21-2014, 05:16 PM | #1209 |
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** drag zilvians chime in**
Jr I know, I have a z32 in the garage that needs a rebuild, but the funds need to go in other places. It has a stock s14 6 bolt diff back there that will be welded. This setup is just for testing purposes and one event. After that q45 and z33.
should I rebuild the z32 and get the conversion kit and get a decent 6 puck or stock trans with the twin so I can actually shift it at 8k. So set the rear to about +3 ish? |
04-21-2014, 05:41 PM | #1210 |
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Anyone know what offset/back spacing would be ideal when using 4in wide skinnies up front on a S14?
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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98 |
04-21-2014, 05:45 PM | #1211 |
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Tom,
I think a lower offset would be best. I'm not sure what your brake setup consists of, but lower would give you the most clearance. Kurt, I would have the trans gone through and have the synchros replaced. They are usually worn or the clips that hold them together have fallen apart or off the set causing grinding problems.
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04-21-2014, 06:44 PM | #1212 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
It's a Garrett core measuring 24x12x4.5". Like I said, last setup for a good while Quote:
LOL I catch a lot of shit for the stock bottom end. In the future I will build a forged bottom end while upgrading other parts to support more power.
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04-23-2014, 11:45 AM | #1215 |
Zilvia Junkie
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04-23-2014, 12:16 PM | #1216 |
Zilvia Junkie
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It is his car and he can obviously do what he wants. The only reason why I am against it was that I played this game with my stock bottom end on my SR. I kept pushing it a little farther and farther until the piston rings gave out and oil shot out of hole on the valve cover where the T fitting is. The oil sprayed all over my hot turbo manifold and started on fire. This is why I am against pushing motors to their limits. I was lucky the motor shut off because I had no idea their was a fire under my hood until I pulled to the side of the road and popped the hood.
To each is their own. But like most of us, we want more power and we will continue to push the envelope until something forces to do otherwise. I am not knocking his build by any means. I think it is awesome and we have the same exact size intercooler. I would love to see what that thing does with a fully built motor and pushing some serious boost.
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04-24-2014, 08:49 PM | #1217 |
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I have the same problem with slow92 too with my sr. Lucky for me it blew the ring at the end of the track.. No fire for me just smoke. Its just only on 1 cylinder, cylinder 2. Anybody know why it happen?. Is upgrading to aftermarket pistons and rings will solve this problem?. I am upgrading to weisco pistons and eagle rods. If the problem still persist I am going to 5.3 chevy iron block. Abandoning the sr altogether joining the rest of the flock. So far in my experience all of the drivetrain in stock s13 sucks really bad. I already blow engine, tranny and rear end
Last edited by zurud; 04-24-2014 at 08:51 PM.. Reason: a |
04-24-2014, 11:58 PM | #1218 |
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Rings usually don't go out, most the time the ringlands crack, but car will still run fine just use a lot of oil and smoke, most the motors I pull apart when people say the rings are bad or lost compression on a cylinder the piston has a hole in it from being lean
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04-25-2014, 10:09 AM | #1219 |
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Yeah, the stock cast pistons are the weak link in the factory motors. Upgrading to forged pistons is always a good idea if you plan on pushing 350whp or more. I've pushed stock pistons to there limits, I got tired of blowing ring lands and taking chunks out of the top.
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04-25-2014, 10:19 AM | #1220 | |
Quote:
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406hp/385tq- 11.43@121 Hatch(old) 599hp/454tq- ??@??? Coupe(new) |
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04-25-2014, 01:11 PM | #1221 |
Zilvia Junkie
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A proper crankcase ventalation setup would prevent oil from spraying all over the engine bay.. thats your own fault.. stock parts with do work within reason. . Has to be tuned very well and conservative. .. good fuel also helps..
This thread is about drag racing.. I ran an 11.6 @ 128mph on pump gas and a full weight s14 with drag radials.. when I learn how to drive it should get much better |
04-25-2014, 02:02 PM | #1222 |
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My new motor will not have any of the previous issues and rather is almost bullet proof. Should be running in the next couple of months. Can't wait. After I break it in and tune it for high boost I will post some times. Until then, lets keep this thread alive
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Sr22 in the works |
04-25-2014, 03:07 PM | #1223 |
Leaky Injector
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Damn I didn't think my build would be such a big deal. You guys are more worried about the stock bottom end than I am lol
That sux what happened to you slow92. I don't have anything pointing to the exhaust side though. In the past I've cracked a couple of ring lands, pretty much drama free. I had an aluminum oil feed line crack, that scared the shit out of me as the car started smoking a ton from under the hood! Also one time I lifted the head on a 22psi run(stock bottom end as well), blew a coolant hose off and steam went everywhere. No fun either.
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04-29-2014, 11:28 PM | #1225 |
Zilvia Junkie
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IMO 24.5 is way to small, it's a slick specific for a FWD car, very soft side wall that's made to be ran on a light car at low psi, we run them at 5.5psi on our shop drag civic that's sub 2300lbs with driver
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04-30-2014, 06:18 AM | #1226 |
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You really think a 2600lb car making only 400hp needs a 26in tall tire?
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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98 |
04-30-2014, 07:00 AM | #1228 | |
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Quote:
I already have a drag radial. Radials are much harder on the drivetrain then a bias ply.
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98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98 |
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04-30-2014, 07:46 AM | #1229 |
Zilvia Junkie
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You can buy a bias ply radial as well, plenty if cars make way more power and can put it down on a radial, from my personal experance anything under 6-700whp a radial is more friendly and works fine, suspension is more important.
(When I say radial I'm talking about drag radials) At that power lever I'd run a m&h 235/60/15 or 245/55/15 radial |
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