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Old 01-31-2009, 12:42 AM   #1291
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Here's me, on your nuts.
Oh, well hello down here! lol Breather set-up makes sense, I like it.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:28 AM   #1292
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Just playing around with the TIG, and did a S13 RSTB.

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Old 02-01-2009, 11:39 AM   #1293
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looks awesome. Do you usually tig all your bars?
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:36 PM   #1294
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Quote:
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looks awesome. Do you usually tig all your bars?
Nope...I TIG some of the parts on the S14 TC brace, and I was going to just do the top of the gusset to the crossbar on this one. I just got carried away...lol. I need TIG practice, so I just did this bar...lol.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:57 PM   #1295
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Here is my fuel cell setup...








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Old 02-04-2009, 12:42 PM   #1296
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Origin Lab Fiberglass Door "Re-enforced Aluminum 6160 Plate". This will take the load off the fiberglass when adding the glass and components back into the 10lb door.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 02-04-2009, 05:33 PM   #1297
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^^^^
Damn!!!

I now need to change my pants!!
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Old 02-04-2009, 05:44 PM   #1298
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Not as cool as most of the stuff in here. But heres my first attempt at metal fab.



This one is from today.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:33 PM   #1299
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God dayum!!!!!!!!!!! That car is nuts!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:05 PM   #1300
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Wow how does that thing fit in a trailer? its like wider than the road.
Really cool you got to check it out in person.
anyways. Lets try and keep this to projects we have done.


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Old 02-10-2009, 02:41 AM   #1301
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So I cut my front wheel wells out to do it in sheet metal vice a stack of fiberglass. I was planning on using 1.2mm thick sheet. Should I use that or go with something thicker or thinner? I am sorry if this post is out of line Blu808 but I promise to post results in return as I have some pretty sick ideas that I plan to incorporate as well.
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:21 AM   #1302
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Brian - 1.2mm is pretty thin, but it's not load-bearing. As long as you "wrap" the edge (curved part has a 90* joint with the straight part, and that's where you rivet) the edge should hold the shape.

Here's a super quick Pshop I did.
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:14 AM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Brian - 1.2mm is pretty thin, but it's not load-bearing. As long as you "wrap" the edge (curved part has a 90* joint with the straight part, and that's where you rivet) the edge should hold the shape.

Here's a super quick Pshop I did.
I could go with something a little thicker, but I was worried abotu the ability to get the gradual bend need for the well. Also, would you still tab it like this if you were going to weld it?
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:41 AM   #1304
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I could go with something a little thicker, but I was worried abotu the ability to get the gradual bend need for the well. Also, would you still tab it like this if you were going to weld it?
It's gonna be a bitch to weld that thin shit lol. I would still fold it over, because it's the fold that gives the shape its rigidity.

I don't know its late.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:25 AM   #1305
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I could go with something a little thicker, but I was worried abotu the ability to get the gradual bend need for the well. Also, would you still tab it like this if you were going to weld it?
Here is Jesse Vaughn's wheel tubs (Vaughn4)

Quote:
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started making templates..




transferred the templates to metal..


wierd things is it turned out looking like a boot.






spotted in.


mostly welded.


retaines the factory curve




test fit with a 255/35/18




drilled holes for the spot welds and folded it all into place.










taken from his build thread!

FreshAlloy.com Forums

specifically pay attention to this picture... that piece of metal that wasn't cut under his green tape is slit into tabs and folded up for the spot welds on the bottom of the metal to support the tub up top.



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Old 02-10-2009, 08:34 AM   #1306
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imo those front wheels tubs are some of the best ive seen, i think thats how im going to do mine.
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #1307
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Nice tubs!

Brian: I would use 16-18 gauge sheet.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:18 AM   #1308
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are those galvanized/zinc coated?
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:10 PM   #1309
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my "oem" style fender tubs.. im not done at all yet but i move it up just over and inch and extened forward about 2inches. used my 18x9.5 +22 SA3r with 275/30 RT615s as clearance check

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Old 02-10-2009, 02:39 PM   #1310
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pretty cool man i like the idea. curious to see how it comes out, i just hammered my tubs forward and made them look kinds smooth haha.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:39 PM   #1311
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Yeah Vaughn does good work - that's what I was trying to tell ya to do

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Bohan View Post
are those galvanized/zinc coated?
Yup - I bought a bunch of 18ga in a 2ft-wide roll do to splitter/ducting work years ago, you could definitely get it to do tubs as long as they're not load-bearing. It's pretty stiff when you do the sides like that - and it's easy as shit to weld (compared to thin lil aluminum).
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:09 PM   #1312
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My apporoach was similar i cut the factory well and pulled it out about 3 inches and gave tons more clearance no rubbage with 275/30/18 . I would have tubbed but i ran out of time and this was the most elegant solution i could come up with at the time.












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Old 02-10-2009, 03:25 PM   #1313
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I hate the factory "ribs" in the fender tubs so much that that's what I would want to get rid of the most.

I'm picking up my welder this week, I'll probably do tubs next week just cuz.
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:42 PM   #1314
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Sorry to break-up your wheel tubs party, but here is a nice little crash bar I slapped together for a friend this past Saterday morning.


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Old 02-10-2009, 06:00 PM   #1315
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While we are breaking up the mini-tub party, allow me to pose this question...

What do Zilvia's master fabricators think of something like this?
East Coast Corvette: 1997 & Newer C5, C6 and Z06 Corvette Performance Parts & Accessories. Odessa, Florida

Now, I understand a large cross section of Zilvia won't give a damn about scraping up their front, because they don't really care about their cars anyway.

For those of us that do care, what do you guys think?
Looks like it shouldn't be too terribly difficult to fab. I think it would be all about positioning it to be useful, and then bracing it to support the weight.

Thoughts?

Has anyone fabbed something like this before?
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:01 PM   #1316
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How's it connected to the frame? The 2" angle stock is welded to... what?

Need moar pics!
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:04 PM   #1317
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Quote:
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While we are breaking up the mini-tub party, allow me to pose this question...

What do Zilvia's master fabricators think of something like this?
East Coast Corvette: 1997 & Newer C5, C6 and Z06 Corvette Performance Parts & Accessories. Odessa, Florida

Now, I understand a large cross section of Zilvia won't give a damn about scraping up their front, because they don't really care about their cars anyway.

For those of us that do care, what do you guys think?
Looks like it shouldn't be too terribly difficult to fab. I think it would be all about positioning it to be useful, and then bracing it to support the weight.

Thoughts?

Has anyone fabbed something like this before?
Haha, the acutal inventor of those is this guy Andy at A&A Corvette out here in Oxnard.

That's where my dad bought his supercharger stuff - I've met the guy a few times.

I've thought of doing exactly the same thing, but Corvettes have a nice beefy frame up there (because the radiator sits "tilted back", resting on this substantial crossmember between the "frame rails") and these cute little runners that go out from underneath the rad support to the bumper support. Our cars don't have any substantial frame pieces that far forward.

I thought about including something like that if I ever did a "bash bar" that went that low - but yeah, the wheels have to be on the leading edge or they're not doing anything.

I'll take some pics of the Z06 next time I'm over at my pop's place, and you'll see what I mean.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:05 PM   #1318
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does seem interesting.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:14 PM   #1319
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Yeah Vaughn does good work - that's what I was trying to tell ya to do



Yup - I bought a bunch of 18ga in a 2ft-wide roll do to splitter/ducting work years ago, you could definitely get it to do tubs as long as they're not load-bearing. It's pretty stiff when you do the sides like that - and it's easy as shit to weld (compared to thin lil aluminum).
I don't know if you know this.

Welding galvanized is really dangerous. The fumes given off while welding are highly toxic. This is caused by the galvanization process.

Make sure you are in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator....

When I say this shit is toxiz. It's really bloody toxic. Can can a whole heap of problems...
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:18 PM   #1320
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you would have to make an angry earl bash bar to utilize those....

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Wayne Edwards
https://om1kron.blogspot.com
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