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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-27-2010, 10:52 AM | #1291 | ||
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I'd recommend rebuilding your valve train, and insure no injector leak. |
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04-27-2010, 11:26 AM | #1292 |
Leaky Injector
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Its weird though...because anytime i swap and injector it remedies the problem and it drives fine..seems every time i get on the car or go sliding (last few times the car has been near empty tank)...it clogs the SAME cylinder injector..guessing its picking up trash from the bottom of the tank.. Going to swap the injector ONE more time and do another compression check...and keep the gas tank above atleast a full tank and drive it until i have enough saved up for an SR..
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04-27-2010, 11:28 AM | #1293 | |
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04-27-2010, 12:17 PM | #1294 |
Leaky Injector
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Well i found the problem...went outside...pulled the fuel pump and it was in good condition..looked in the tank as best as i could and it looked fine...went and pulled the injector off the cylinder that was causing all the problems....and what do you know...injector o-ring was in pieces....put another o-ring on it from a clogged injector...turned the car on and drove around and the car is now back to normal...for the time being...may go to Nissan and get brand new 0-rings...heard they are about 10bux..im guessing when i put the other injector in...it possibly pinched the o-ring...buddy said to put Vaseline? on them before putting them in to prevent pinching? Vaseline?
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04-27-2010, 12:51 PM | #1295 |
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^^According to the FSM, when installing an injector, lightly lube the o-rings with engine oil to prevent them from getting pinched. When tightening down the screws, tighten them evenly.
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04-27-2010, 03:24 PM | #1296 | |
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i just got a trans-cooler from NAPA but it should work fine for P/S instead of getting fitings can i just cut the loop hard line short and connect hose from there to cooler to reservoir? |
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04-27-2010, 03:36 PM | #1298 |
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my red Brake light is on in the cluster (the one that comes on when e-brake is pulled up) ..
but my e-brake is down .. it wont turn off .. my brake fluid is at the right amount too if that means any thing .. someone help
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04-27-2010, 04:01 PM | #1299 | ||
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It could mean that the small switch located at the bottom of your handbrake is stuck. This happens often. |
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04-27-2010, 04:25 PM | #1300 | ||
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also, anyone have a picture of how the trans linkage should sit when attempting to put it all back together...?
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04-27-2010, 08:12 PM | #1301 |
Leaky Injector
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Yea friend also asked if i was using the caps to push the injector into the hole...and i said yes i did that the past 2 times...and apparently if you use the caps to push/seat the injectors...it automatically pinches or puts a slice in the injector...and to instead line them up straight and apply some pressure to seat them in THEN tighten the caps down
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04-27-2010, 08:30 PM | #1302 |
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Installed a motor into my vert, but it wont start.
Ok fixed the fuel pump problem. [ Missed the rear engine ground ] I dont have the plug that goes to S.C.V plugged in. P.s. What is the SCV do? Assuming the injectors are fine and shooting fuel. Missing spark? What do I need to test for spark? Plugs, wires, dizzy? How do I test these? THANKS!
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Last edited by Fries; 04-27-2010 at 09:24 PM.. |
04-27-2010, 10:44 PM | #1303 | |
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04-28-2010, 12:17 AM | #1304 | |||
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According to the FSM, to check for spark, one should use a timing lamp to see if you are getting spark. If it's not flashing, then no spark. The FSM has a detailed troubleshooting section for this, which happens to be next to the fuel system troubleshooting section as well. Quote:
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04-28-2010, 12:58 AM | #1305 |
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im shopping around for BOV
what i have in mind is HKS or synapse i been hearing good stuff bout synapse=steppin on HKS BOV? true? damn computer! my speakers dont work so i cant hear nothing if i watch youtube=pointless |
04-28-2010, 11:27 AM | #1306 |
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I went back over all my wiring. Double checked grounds. I missed one plug on the ignitor.
So now the car starts. Idles for a second at 2k then starts dieing. Blips twice and shuts off. Fuccccck.
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04-28-2010, 12:35 PM | #1307 |
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I recently had to change my downpipe due to a leak. I picked up a downpipe from a guy on Zilviaa but there is a slight difference. The O2 sensor threading is smaller on his. I have one that fits and connects to the plug but would it work? My CEL turned on and has not turned off even after a full night of battery disconnect. Would this be from the mis-matching sensor? If I could somehow get the CEL light to turn off, Could I pass SMOG? or would my emissions be too high of the O2 sensor wasn't working? I am so confused... maybe I should just get it scanned......... >:[
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04-28-2010, 01:34 PM | #1308 | |
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You won't pass smog legally if your CEL is on. If your O2 sensor is malfunctioning, this will cause your engine to run rich. |
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04-28-2010, 05:14 PM | #1309 | |
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talkin about how the forks inside the gearbox housing should sit before i attempt to put the casing back over it...
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04-28-2010, 05:28 PM | #1310 |
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Have the following: Clutch fork, clutch fork pin, release bearing, release bearing holder, release bearing holder pin, shift fork dust boot. Note: Be sure your Nismo slave cylinder is not installed.
1) Set the clutch fork pin inside the clutch fork 2) Press your release bearing onto the release bearing holder 3) Set release bearing holder pin on release bearing holder 4) Install clutch fork dust boot onto transmission 5) Install the Nismo pivot ball (if you have one to install) 6) Lightly lube the shaft for the release bearing and the pivot ball for the clutch fork Now the somewhat tricky parts. Think of it like a 3 piece puzzle. 7) Slide the clutch fork through the clutch fork dust boot, BUT DO NOT push the clutch fork onto the pivot ball yet!! 8) At the same time, slide the release bearing a short distance on the shaft, AND slide the to tips of the clutch fork in the slots on the sides of the release bearing holder, underneath the pin ends. 9) Once you make it through step (8), make sure the fork tips don't slide out from under the pin ends and push the fork against the pivot ball until the clutch fork pin locks onto the pivot ball. Done. Then install your Nismo slave cylinder, then install your tranny and driveshaft, then hook up your hydraulic clutch line. Then fill and bleed your system. |
04-28-2010, 08:01 PM | #1311 |
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theses bolts were located on my RUCA and rear toe arms.
what are they, what makes them special, and should i be doing something specific with them during re install of suspension parts? also, my car has a zenki harness, and a kouki front. and i think the last person did a janky job at installing it. so i have a simple question: what is suppose to light up when the turn signals go on? both the corner light and the turn signal? or just the amber turn signal? because as of now, only the amber turn signal lights up... (its a jdm front bumper as well.)
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04-28-2010, 08:08 PM | #1312 | |
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^ Dude the bolt is for camber adjustment on your RUCAs. Only the amber turn signal should be lighting up when you hit the switch.
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04-28-2010, 08:13 PM | #1314 | |
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04-28-2010, 08:51 PM | #1315 |
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Yep. They appears to be.
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04-29-2010, 07:00 AM | #1318 | |
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04-29-2010, 10:49 AM | #1319 |
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Question- I have a Enthaply ECU for z32 maf, anyone could tell me the in and out setting for it on a SAFC?...(91 KADE)
I know the setting is 2 in 5 out for a z32 maf with a stock ecu. Its probably different for this enthaply ecu since its already tuned for a z32 maf.
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