2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[bullfrogg0]

with a proper length driveshaft you have plenty of room to maneuver if you get the correct measurements to a quality manufacturer like shaftmasters

[91ka24]

I got my ds made here locally. It's just a steel 1 piece, and I'm using the stock s13 open diff. All I did was just measure from the rear seal of the tranny, to the diff where the ds bolts up, subtracted an inch for slip, and they had it done it 2 days and only cost $230. Fits perfectly!!!!

[1quk240]

Originally Posted by bullfrogg0

I am. I've got a w58 in my coupe

what mounts are you using? did you have to modify the trans. bracket?

Originally Posted by 91ka24

I have a mk4 w58 In my hatch. The shifter sits about a 1 1/2-2" further back than the stock location. I just cut the stock hole back some and have 0 issues.

I've had the 250z trans. in my hatch so thats not an issue but thanks for informing me. Same question, did you have to modify the trans. bracket?

Originally Posted by rswails

Thank you for this info this answers one question I've had a lot of trouble getting answered! I also will be using a MK IV supra w58. For mounts I will probably use the $180 ebay mounts.

I think im going to be buying those also. let me know if you have to modify anything if you get them before me.

[rswails]

Originally Posted by Wadacolor

got my engine in, its going in a s13

Congrats. Any reason you decided to go VVTi? A lot of people say avoid the VVTi for S chassis swaps because they are harder to tune or wire, but I'm not sure how big a deal it is as I've never done it.

I had wanted to get a VVTi one at first since they are newer and thus the rubber and age affected materials would be in better shape in general, but people advised against it like I said.

[91ka24]

I modified the tranny bracket I had but its because it was for a r154. Xcessive has a w58 tranny bracket though

[Flipnirish]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

I got my ds made here locally. It's just a steel 1 piece, and I'm using the stock s13 open diff. All I did was just measure from the rear seal of the tranny, to the diff where the ds bolts up, subtracted an inch for slip, and they had it done it 2 days and only cost $230. Fits perfectly!!!!

Same situation here. Dropped off car in the morning and picked it up at night...not a big deal.

[Mr. Phonso]

Has anyone just got their stock 240sx front half shaft cut and welded to work with the r154 front half shaft?

[91ka24]

^^?? Are u meaning the front half of the ds of the r154 and weld it to the 240 rear half? It won't work because the diameter is different on both ds.

[Mr. Phonso]

I mean cut both front half shafts from each car to make a hybrid front half shaft that will bolt into the rear 240sx half shaft and to the r154. I didn't know about the diameter difference, is it large enough to make a difference?

[91ka24]

Yes, the ds shop i took mine said it can't be done safely so they just made me a 1 piece. plus it gets rid of that carrier bearing.

[Mr. Phonso]

I see, I just don't like the idea of having to get another ds made if I decide to change the differential.

Where do you guys go to get them made? driftmotion? shaftmaster? Do they need the r154 yoke and rear 240sx flange?

[Flipnirish]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

I see, I just don't like the idea of having to get another ds made if I decide to change the differential.

Where do you guys go to get them made? driftmotion? shaftmaster? Do they need the r154 yoke and rear 240sx flange?

Try your local driveline shop...

[JohanM]

Originally Posted by rswails

Congrats. Any reason you decided to go VVTi? A lot of people say avoid the VVTi for S chassis swaps because they are harder to tune or wire, but I'm not sure how big a deal it is as I've never done it.

I had wanted to get a VVTi one at first since they are newer and thus the rubber and age affected materials would be in better shape in general, but people advised against it like I said.

I did a lot of research on this swap before i got it, and i went through all the wiring diagrams and look at ways i can tune down the road when i decide to go top mount. and to tell you the truth its just like any other engine. you just got to understand all the wiring and look at your options for tuning.

I just got it running on the pallet yesterday with not a problem.

If you understand wiring, and know u can do it it should no be any harder to swap this engine in than a RB, non vvti 2jz ect....

[Syncade]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

I see, I just don't like the idea of having to get another ds made if I decide to change the differential.

Where do you guys go to get them made? driftmotion? shaftmaster? Do they need the r154 yoke and rear 240sx flange?

Its like $320 shipped for an Aluminum shaft from Shaftmasters.

They are the best. Period.

[rswails]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

I see, I just don't like the idea of having to get another ds made if I decide to change the differential.

Where do you guys go to get them made? driftmotion? shaftmaster? Do they need the r154 yoke and rear 240sx flange?

If you plan on changing differential just keep the stock pumpkin and put a cusco or kaaz or something in the same pumpkin. You don't have to change ds necessarily if you change the differential.

[JohanM]

Originally Posted by Syncade

Its like $320 shipped for an Aluminum shaft from Shaftmasters.

They are the best. Period.

where did you see a DS on Shaftmasters for an r154 to s13 ?

[Mr. Phonso]

Originally Posted by Syncade

Its like $320 shipped for an Aluminum shaft from Shaftmasters.

lol yea right

[JohanM]

Originally Posted by rswails

Congrats. Any reason you decided to go VVTi? A lot of people say avoid the VVTi for S chassis swaps because they are harder to tune or wire, but I'm not sure how big a deal it is as I've never done it.

I had wanted to get a VVTi one at first since they are newer and thus the rubber and age affected materials would be in better shape in general, but people advised against it like I said.

I forgot to mention that it is newer like you said, but also it has better low end tq due to the vvti.

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

- Fuel line. You will need to get a few feet of fuel line, as the KA24/SR/RB/etc all have the fuel rail on the right side, and the 2JZ is on the left you will need to make your lines go to the other side of the engine bay, not a big deal, here is one way you can do it. Also as a side note, i happened to use a Z32 Fuel filter as well worked fine.
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial]

Flick, can you elaborate on what you did here? I have zero experience with hardlines, and i was wondering what you did to get them to connect to the stock lines. i see fittings of some sort, but i can't really make out what is going on.

[kevinintegra]

If any of you are looking for an r154 I have one posted for sale.

[Syncade]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

lol yea right

I just called them and its 318 but that was for steel. I have written in my book that I paid 335 back in 2006 so i guess prices have gone up

[91ka24]

E double, just go to your local parts store and ask for their brass fuel fittings. I got them for like $5, they basically just clamp on the hard line as you tighten the male end into the female end.

[Flicktitty]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

E double, just go to your local parts store and ask for their brass fuel fittings. I got them for like $5, they basically just clamp on the hard line as you tighten the male end into the female end.

exactly, i can't remember what size they were or what i used. i didn't have much into the setup. I think looking back if i were to do oe style lines again i would run them down the drivers side frame rail then up. instead of up by the downpipe and then over.

[Mister.E]

Where does one usually buy the line from in lengths that can run from the fuel tank, along the driver's side, and up into the engine bay?

[Entranced]

you can pick up a pack of 25' of hardlines and cut and use fittings where you like on it. just like fabbing up a brake line setup, however the line is a larger diameter.

[Flicktitty]

Originally Posted by Entranced

you can pick up a pack of 25' of hardlines and cut and use fittings where you like on it. just like fabbing up a brake line setup, however the line is a larger diameter.

That, Or when i was on the fence of doing E85 or Gas, i went with An lines not knowing if i'd switch to ethanol. If you don't plan on using ethanol you could run Aluminum lines. You can buy rolls pretty cheap.
Aluminum Fuel Line, 5/8 Inch O.D. - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

That, Or when i was on the fence of doing E85 or Gas, i went with An lines not knowing if i'd switch to ethanol. If you don't plan on using ethanol you could run Aluminum lines. You can buy rolls pretty cheap.
Aluminum Fuel Line, 5/8 Inch O.D. - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

The line needed would be 3/8 inch OD (-6AN) correct?

[Flicktitty]

I would recommend that yes. (-6AN 3/8 )
I have one single -6AN line that Y's to dual -6ANs to the rail.

I doubt this is enough for E85 as most people run Dual -6AN Feeds.

*Then again alot of people say Ethanol isn't smart to use on Aluminum*

[Mister.E]

so would it be better to get steel line considering there is ethanol added to regular gas? or is the percentage not high enough?

[Flicktitty]

Originally Posted by E Double

so would it be better to get steel line considering there is ethanol added to regular gas? or is the percentage not high enough?

I'm not a chemist. but i can't see the amount of ethanol being in gas today being enough to corrode the lines. Someone else may wish to chime in. I read on a few muscle car/hot rod forums about people using aluminum stuff for years with no issues.